Ivan K

That is an unusual configuration since pumps are usually better at pushing than pulling. Can you siphon some water to get it flowing and then connect back to the pump inlet to get the pump primed? From that point it should work until the pump gets dry again.

I have defogged 4 of our most used/slammed windows so I know that it is easy to replace one, once you have the glass. Ours just needed polishing and resealing so I did not have to take it anywhere. Once you pull the frame out of the wall, you'll see small screws holding it all together. Pry it apart a bit to free the glass from its rubber seal and pull it out. Then you can take it wherever they can match, cut and temper. Sealing the panes is very doable unless you want argon or whatever gas in it but it is also probably cheaper to have it done by them since it is a single small piece and you don't pay for the excess material and tools. I've done ours more than 2 years ago and still holding fine.

Edward, If REV won't help you, call Veurings. A very nice lady there offered to send me our codes when looking for some other parts. I already had the codes but she also volunteered to sent me window sticker copy for our VIN, which I did not have. Always a great friendly service.

Are these BASF codes? EnglishColor mixed 4 of my colors to a perfect match just based on the codes using actual BASF paint. There is a minimum they can mix, certainly more than what would fit into a touch up pen.

If you call balance masters, they will tell you exactly what measurements you need, I think his name was Scott and he made it very easy for me. SA-302M fit our front axle with disk brake. They even have little fins to cool the brake, therefore each piece of the set is side specific.

HWH site has a lot of documentation including the synchronization. I suspect that you have total of 3 cylinders also, since our coaches are only a year apart. The short equalizing cylinder (in fuel tank bay) started to leak shortly after the long ram, we were on a 8k miles trip, probably because it had to move to its extreme end of travel. Besides the gen slide which is also fed from the same reservoir. I think to remember that I did not have to do any major bleeding, just run it in and out few times. But it's been a couple of years... HWH site is your friend.

Yeah, top of the passenger side bay. It's a long cylinder and hopefully you have enough room to slide it out without much trouble.

Or get balance masters and forget about it for ever...

Kerry, you may have the removal already figured out but if not and if your cylinder mounts look like mine in the pics, I can give you pointers. First, there is no hose to leak inside the square tube but a steel line not likely to leak. Cylinder leak is way more likely. To remove the cylinder, remove the nut underneath at least partially extended slide, removed the two bolts or nuts at the mounting plate in the bay, disconnect the lines at the plate and slide it out of the bay. (This may sound easier than it is depending on clearance, I had to remove a bay door) I had a leaky cylinder seal and a local hydraulic shop got it done the same day for a fraction of new price.

If you really want to play with it, you can set it up to work with your phone hotspot while plugged into the home tv. If you know how to cast a YouTube video to the firestick, test it out. You should see the firestick as an available device in the YouTube screen. Move the firestick to the MH and see if it still shows up in YouTube. If it does and you still have no picture, it is your tv setup or port.

Your hotspot does not matter at this point, you will still get the initial screen. Are you using the same USB power supply in both locations? If so, then it's your TVs input port issue.

I would try a different hdmi port and check the power supply by plugging it into a phone or tablet. Lack of an internet connection will not stop it from displaying the initial screen on tv.

Just for curiosity, I don't have any of them but the base price differences before options in 2006 were staggering to me.

I bet you know that there is a USB cable length limitation and you may not find a simple working 50' cable. Hopefully you'll find a better fix and won't need repeaters. / I know this is obvious but I have two of the same plugs up front for the ISM and for Allison that could be confused for each other...

I don't know about the Humphrey valve but would think it needs to relieve the opposite pressure somehow. Have you looked at MAC 45A-AA2-DFEA-1BA as a possibility? It is used in some Monaco/HR as OEM. ~$65 Often times the valve can be taken apart and cleaned unless the coil is burned. I have done it on a tag valve years ago and still works. If you have moisture in the line, it won't last. Aluminum does not like it. The leak stops at about 60 PSI because the pressure protection valve kicks in.

I'll give it my best guess since our coaches are of different vintage. I have at least 2 pressure sensors, one up front on the outside of firewall (as I nderstand, this might be the one you mentioned) and an other one down on the parking brake switch. The light and buzzer should quit at around 90PSI. Our buzzer is behind the gauge cluster just sitting on top of the firewall shelf. If your aux compressor is from HWH, it is powered directly from the control box through an inline fuse on the power lead right by the compressor. In my case it is a glass fuse in the old style twist holder. I had travel lite go out and auto leveling light come on and it was caused by a bad momentary switch on the touch pad. Many different problems are caused by the cable connector on back of the touch pad being loose or the other side of the cable at the controller. I had both happen to me. If you have a bad momentary switch on the touchpad, they are easy to replace if you have any sort of soldering skills. I replaced all of them already since some were funky. I have up and down button on leveling system but only use it to get through obstacles at a croll. Would not use it at speed, could be catastrophic for the ujoints and who knows what else. Hope some of this will help.

That sound like a potentially cheaper fix than brake hardware issue. You or someone has to identify the actual location and source of the air escape sound, external or internal. At least you seem to know which corner is effected. Might also help to know if you hear it for the duration of brake activation or just when the pedal is going down. BTW, disk brakes can have slack adjusters too, at least ours do, front and rear.

Is the noise present only with the wheels turning or even when stationary? That might point to an air escape issue or a worn/stuck hardware.

This is no different from an automotive paint repair. The biggest problem is that we have no idea how thick the clear coat is and there is a chance to polish through it to the base and then you have a real problem. I would not expect the thickness to be consistent all around the bus either. I use 3M products in 3 steps (from automotive paint dealer), depends how much or little of the clear you have to take out to level the surface to your satisfaction, knowing there is a chance of going too deep. You may want to start with the final fine grit and see if you can live with it. You need to expect that anything with any grit will dull the shine so you still need to polish it afterwards... Like Bob said, dual action only and variable speed. Make sure it is really set for dual action since there is usually a mechanism to switch it on or off. Never use just the edge of the buffer wheel and never start it before it is flat against the surface. Never polish sharp edges, tape them off or you WILL burn through them. YouTube is probably full of videos to help out. Alternatively you can try vibrating polishers, they are cheap, I think safe but not very effective for repairs. I use the ones that look like a big grinder.

I never understood the point of a front bra on a vehicle, if that is what you are referring to. Is it to keep it nice for the next guy and ugly while it's yours? When home, I work on customer cars, usually high end or classic cars that need to look good and have yet to see a bra that would not leave a mark after a while. Not many use them but if asked to fix it, I'll do it all the way from primer up, to fill the spots. Reclearing by itself will not make the low spots invisible if they're too deep to polish out. After that, the bra usually goes into the trash bin... just my opinion.

Same as our 2000. Good to know it exists. Could be a parts list addition.

I just though I would throw this info in here in case someone is looking for a true 4K (8M CMOS) camera at a discount. It expires today. I have had the camera for a couple of months and like it. You need to understand that true 4K recording takes a lot of memory and processing power so it's not for everyone. I use it with 512GB memory card. Rear camera for an other $29.

Haha, careful what you wish for, Mike. It comes as a 3-pack. I just went to test it with just a wet finger and it still works after more than a year since installed.

Mike, it runs on 9v battery. What may look to you like a plug is the actual sensor. The white part of it is to keep it standing vertically on a floor surface and is removable if not needed for different applications. It is pretty sensitive, it goes off if I stand it on a piece of wet paper.

We have always been with dish at home since the 90's and when we got the coach, with traveler dish on the roof, we just take the living room dual DVR receiver with us. We don't care for local channels tho, that's what internet is for, for us anyway.