jacwjames

Have you had to tighten the bolt in the past? Did you consider contacting Roadmaster, they may be interested in taking a look at it. From the pictures I almost looks like some of the crack is older form the looks of the surface rust but I know surface rust can happen over night. This is one of the reasons I force myself to do my own oil changes. It gives me a chance to inspect the baseplate.

I took a leap of faith and bought a Microair when I installed both AC's new. I would have had to replace the 5 button anyway so the cost difference wasn't that bad. The Micorair has some nice features and am very satisfied with the purchase. When boon docking in really cold weather I can just use the phone app to turn the furnace on.

The MLACR latches when power is applied after a short delay. When power source is removed it closes after a short delay. But from I see/hear it doesn't continually cycle on and off. I installed on in the Transit Van I outfitted for my wife, added an extra battery so she could run lights and the exhaust fan without having to worry about draining the chassis battery. After I start the van and start driving after a very short period the MLACR latches and then unlatches after I shut the van off. Works great.

I searched the manual and the website and I cannot find any mention of a cleaning or repair method so my guess is no.

I installed 3/4" conduit across the top of the basement compartment and pulled a group of 5 wires back to front. On my coach I have a plastic box on the firewall covering the brake pedal area, I just routed through there.

Bill What was your final solution for a repair. Looks like I'm facing the same issue in my wet bay. Mine looks like it is a laminated plastic/wood/plastic type flooring but it is pretty much gone. Haven't tore it apart yet, going to evaluate this week. My wife has a trip planned next month so if I dive into it have to get it done in the next month.

My communication cable is daisy chained from the thermostat, first routed to the rear AC then to the front. I have 2 connectors on the rear AC, one on the front. Did you clean all the connectors?

When I installed the Bluesea I was able to abandon my BIRD, Isolation Relay, and my Lambert. Basically killed 3 birds with one stone😁

Are the brackets on the rear for motorcycle lift/carrier? Beautiful coach Good Luck

X2 on the Bluesea ML-ARC install, I did mine ~3 years ago. The relay itself was a pretty simple install, the switch required me to run wire from back to front. I also use a Silverleaf VMSpc monitoring system and can see my alternator voltage. If I had an alternator failure I can start the generator and the Bluesea will tie house and chassis systems together. Can also use it as a battery boost for starting.

Do you have power with generator running??

Thanks you and your wife for your service I would suggest starting to build a database of info about your coach. If you have the original binder/box of most of the components that's a good start, you may have a copy of the build sheet which has a list of most of the components with make/model/SN. If you do use this to start building your file system. Take advantage of the downland section on this site, lots of info there. If you have questions feel free to ask but I'd start a new thread if you can't find the info, it a lot of cases it may already be addressed in another post so I'd suggest doing a search first. Good luck

Can you post a part number for the Arens actuator?? Where is this located??

You might consider buying a Fox and Hound wire tracer. You should be able to follow the direction of the wire. Don't buy a cheap one, mine works but its not the best, I needed it in a hurry so bought one from Harbor Freight. Amazon has a good selection https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Fox+and+hound&crid=3ONDQVJ4NGNV8&sprefix=fox+and+houn%2Caps%2C684&ref=nb_sb_noss_2 I ended up having dead short in my rear bedroom circuit that also fed the bathroom and basement. The wires from the breaker box went into the ceiling. I was able to trace the wire in the ceiling back to the rear outside wall in the engine compartment when then went into the bedroom under the bed and to the outlets next to the bed. Somewhere between the breaker box and there I had a short. I as able rearrange the wiring, abandoned the portion in the ceiling and then back toward the rest of the circuit. It was a real head scratcher, both finding the locaiton of the short but figuring out a solution. Couldn't have done it without the wire tracer.

John, I hadn't had time to get any pictures but my pocket door track is mounted the same. Monaco put a trim piece on either side to dress up the ceiling, this is removeable to be able to access the door to adjust and remove if necessary. Keep that in mine as you are installing yours!!! The original doors are very well made and solid wood, in my case Walnut. One option would have been to contact a cabinet shop and had them duplicate with the species of wood work you have but it would have been expensive. And it still would have been difficult to match the patina of the wood as it aged. Lumber prices have gone crazy. So the $400 is probably a decent price to get something that matches.

Here is a guide/manual You need to check how the Inverter is set up based on you battery type, size and number for total amp hours available. Dr4Film shared how he set up his AGS with me, this might help you. I also included an inverter manual but this is for a 2000 watt inverter, yours might be different. RC7-GS Remote Panel Programming · Search Sense = Defeat · LBCO = ON · Battery Capacity = 500 amp · Battery Type = Liquid Lead Acid · Charge Rate = 80% · Set Shore Power = 30 amps · External Shunt = None · Fuel gauge Cutout = 11.8 VDC @ 0% SOC · Generator Start = 12.0 or 12.2 VDC · Generator Stop = Auto Float · Generator Quiet Time = 23:59 & 00:01 You must set clock to military time for Auto Gen Start RC7_RC-GS_Owners_Manual(975-0210-01-01_Rev-A).pdf RVSeries_2012-2512-3012-GS_Trace Owners_Manual(975-0209-01-01_Rev-A).pdf

You can buy this but it was the original, I just removed it and cleaned up good before putting it back in after I did the stairwell. I used LVP Pergo from Lowes when I did the floor. I didn't really use anything to attach it to the sides, I fit it in like a zigsaw puzzle starting at the bottom. There was enough space to slide it in next to the door trim. Fit each side first and then a snug fit with the toe kick using construction adhesive it to hold it in place. Then the edge trim at the top. Overall it turned out pretty good but took time to do it.

I'm using a Dell with Windows 10, I CAN NOT down load/open this type of image.

Don, Do you have a part number for slip ring, I've been doing some searching and in most cases they call them Collector rings.

I've been looking for replacement also and found this on Ebay BUT have not tried it. https://www.ebay.com/itm/304774092871 Hopefully someone can post a real solution

I have pocket doors in that location, one on both sides that meet in the middle. I assume the width of the door your purchased will span the width but not be protruding when open. In my case it looks like they mounted a piece of wood that the track attaches to. You might be able to take advantage of the cabinet on one side and then use some sort of anchor on the other side so you don't have rely solely on the ceiling structure. My door uses a slider latch on the bottom that holds the door closed while traveling. Look at Lowes or Home Depot to see what they have available. Good luck, these types of modifications can be tricky.

I wouldn't get carried away pressure washing this, it is actually the heat sink on the bottom side of the inverter. Good chance you'd get water in the electronic portion on the other side. See parts page. I'd suggest removing the grill work and using a brush to clean off the sink. Inverter parts.pdf

I assume you have the 7.5KW generator. There is a belt, you have to remove the top and rear panels to access. There is a recommended service interval and it does shows 1000 hours (from memory) to replace. You pretty much have to remove the top to be able to inspect anyway so by the time you invest the effort it is probably makes sense to replace. I have 700 hours on mine and decided to go ahead and replace. I tried to find an aftermarket belt but could not confirm a good number so I just went ahead and bought one from the Cummins shop ~25 miles from me. Cost $18. The fan blade assembly is on the passenger side but it is driven off a pulley on the opposite side, you have to remove the pulley to change the belt. Took me ~2 hours. I also took the time to remove the spark arresstor plug and blow out the soot buildup, they recommend removing plug and running the generator for ~5 minutes under a load.

I have an air operated mechanism and had it out when I redid my stepwell flooring. On mine the front portion (toe kick) came off and I was able to remove the screws to get the cover out, it barely fit. On mine there is an access door underneath that is riveted in place, never had it out, but I believe that would give me access to get to the air lines attached to the small cylinder. I did not remove the cylinder, just removed the screws that fastened the end of the cylinder to the front portion (toe kick). In your case look at removed the front portion and see if you can get to the mechanism and also look underneath to see if there are bolts/nuts accessible from below.

That is the same system I have so my posts are valid. I had one jack that was slowly bleeding down and I opened/closed the T Handle and it solved my problem.