willbo777

I believe my alarms come out of that panel, low air, turn signal, etc. The Vorad has its own as you said, the leveling system has its own.

Kevin, I have a 2007 Nav and had one of the air line fittings blow off that annunciator panel. I contacted the manufacturer and was able to buy a new one and got extra air fittings. Hope this helps.

Jim, When you installed the new Sanicon did you have to rewire with a larger wire for the increased amperage? This is a project I want to do this winter.

Respectfully, do you mean M&M?

Give Valid a call, they have good customer service.

I don't normally shy away from doing most things myself, although I have never done anything with an alternator. Not sure how to test it or see what is wrong. The guy I just spoke to in Great Falls says getting parts for Leece Neville is a bear so most just order them in. It's a weekend so my hands are tied, but it looks like there is a battery, alternator, and electric place in Missoula. I may have to wait until I get there in a couple weeks. I'll look in the files. Thanks

Update on the alternator. As I posted my first went out at 162,000 miles, I replaced it with a new one from AJ Electric. At 1500 miles or so, the new one quit as I was going through the middle of Atlanta traffic. We were going to a campground in Atlanta, so I contacted AJ Electric in North Carolina about warranty. We pulled the bad new alternator and drove 160 miles to his shop where he confirmed the failure, and replaced it under warranty, but said maybe I had a problem with my coach? I said nothing had changed since I have owned the coach, it has new chassis batteries, so I had no idea what it could be if anything. We went back and replaced the alternator, drove it back to Florida, installed a Blue Sea ML-ARC, and then in the spring left for our normal travel, and today in the middle of Montana it quit again, 6000 miles later. I am extremely frustrated. Right now I am between Great Falls and Helena, and plan to be in Missoula for a couple weeks in about 2 weeks. I can limp along with the generator if need be. But of course Murphy is active and my 10 kw Onan is surging occasionally. Going to replace the fuel filter tomorrow. I called an alternator shop in Great Falls just before they closed and they do not rebuild Leese Neville, and didn't know of anyone that does in this area. I am sorry now I didn't rebuild my old one. Any suggestions, opinions, ideas, any would be much appreciated.

I would suggest just for comparison, rather than run the dash AC, try turning the selector to off. That way no air comes in through the heating/AC dash system. It makes a huge difference in our coach. Now when it becomes too hot for the dash air I start the gen run the 3 roof AC's and shut off the system selector.

Just pour the bleach into the water hose and then reconnect.

I doubt you could run 1 AC on 20 amp, maybe if nothing else was on.

When our hydraulic cooler went out, I called Source and they overnighted a replacement cooler immediately.

On our coach the door seal inflates when Drive is selected on the trans.

Al, the TST system can be programmed very easily for high and low pressure readings. Just reprogram it and the high pressure alarms will go away. Before we leave in the morning I turn on the system and in less than 5 minutes all readings of pressure are available on the monitor, including the toad.

Rear run bay, inside the engine compartment

I have had the TST system for many years with only a couple very minor problems. My monitor is hooked up to a 12v plug with my dash cam, and Garmin 780 GPS. I installed a switch that turns them all on and off. When I travel I turn them on. My TST repeater has been plugged in, actually connected to the house battery for all the years I have owned the system. Their customer service has been stellar. Also as an aside I have only replaced the sensor batteries a few times in all the years I have had the system, including on our toad.

On my bedroom slide the resetting circuit breaker is in the RRB. But there is also a shear pin that broke one time for us, fairly easy job to replace.

On our visit to Josam's this spring, the drag link that we replaced 5 years ago was in bad shape. Barry got a new and much improved over OEM drag link from Henderson's. And I agree with a previous poster, it isn't cheap, but the peace of mind is worth it.

Do you store it with the battery switches off? If so it won't run.

I also have a 07 Navigator, and I have had to replace the solenoid on the slide pump under the steps several times. Once it just quit like you describe, replaced and all was well for years, then I noticed a reluctance on all hydraulic slides to move and thought initially it was the multiplex, but it also turned out to be the solenoid. I now carry a spare, once you replace it once it only takes a short time to do. Respectfully I disagree that it is a multiplex problem as the jacks of which I also have are operated by the leveling panel. I agree it seems very fluky, you would have an issue with both at the same time that resolved itself.

In the Valid system the only thing that controls the pump is the 90/120 pressure switch, leveling system on or off the pump will run if the pressure goes below 90. I installed a switch by the driver's seat so I can turn it off if I need to. I have my leaks down to the point the pump only runs one or two times a day, but if it is real cold out it runs more, so overnight I turn it off.

I assume, bad I know, that yours is the same as our coach, that the power to the compressor is in the FRB, high up on the rear wall. It is an auto resetting fuse that looks like a small square goldish cube. What would concern me more it that is pumping your coach up higher. The Valid compressor runs anytime it is powered by its own 90/120 pressure switch. And I wonder if there is a setting on the system that is allowing it to raise your coach. I would call them for advice.

Glad Barry got you fixed up, I knew he would!

I don't know if this is relevant with our different coaches, but when I installed the ML-ARC in our coach I found wires in the FRB and traced them back to wires in the main bundle of wires going to the RRB. I had to take the wrapping off the bundle, and take the tape off, but it was worth it not having to route new wires from front to back. By the way the bundle I am talking about has maybe 50-75 wires in it. I used a tone generator first and then checked continuity to be sure I had the right ones.

After shopping around when I needed new Toyo's for our rig, I got the best price from Barry at Josam's!

We have both air leveling and jacks on our coach. I much prefer the air, easy, quick, and it rechecks level every so many hours, ours is set to 2 hours. After many mods with the aux air compressor, changing to Viair and moving it inside a basement compartment you can still hear it but we don't mind nor does it disturb us. If we sit for a long time, very rare for us, I might air level and then just touch down the jacks. The explanation I have always heard about 3 vs 4 jacks is 3 is less likely to twist the chassis, and it seems to make sense to me. The jacks do come in handy sometimes and am very glad our coach happened to have both systems.