Ivylog

Yes Yes, reducing the weight on the front will reduce the harshness of the ride. With 15K on the front you needed 120 psi in your 295s. Once you get the front below 14K (it’s rated 14,600) you’ll likely need 110 and 85 in the drivers, and 75 in the tags. I run 315s on the front because I can reduce by 10 psi what’s need to carry the weight… softening the harshness. I run 11Rs on the rear but they require 10 psi more to carry the same weight as a 295… not a problem on the rear and they are the same diameter.

With a ISL your drive axle is rated 20K and tag 10K (23/12 with a ISM). Unfortunately all the big Monacos are heavy on the front axle and to take as much weight as possible off it you need to load the drive to its max (20K) by reducing the tag’s airbag psi. I would use 40 psi when you weigh next, based on 80K mikes on a 42’ Dynasty weighing many times. These things have a way of gaining weight so I would shoot for 19K on the drive.

Yes, you can wedge something under the boost switch to charge the house batteries.

Which engine do you have?

What were your axle weights and 80 is almost double what I run.

Likely has 2 screws on the underside

Depending on the filter, they are engine fuel filters good for 50+ gallons/hour on a system that has a 0.35 gallons/hour nozzle and yet people change them every year. In the 14 years I had a 100 in our 04 Dynasty I changed the nozzle 3 times and the filter once… nozzle by the sniff test and filter because it’d been 8 years. It did have a clear base which did show some discoloration in the filter. Your comfort level may be different… different strokes for ……..

I would send off a oil sample before assuming the worst.

When I added the Silverleaf VMS 333, I had both dash hatches off and the center console removed to find everything needed.

I would take the keypad off and check for 12V power to it first. Regardless of where you put a keypad, it will still do the same thing… 3rd wire is the signal wire that tells the cpu which relay to operate.

I would check it with the slides in.

Look at you FRBox, unfortunately it probably looks like this;

Yes, the black cover just pops off, but I’d try rebooting the system first. Turning the salesman switch off may do it, but solar may still keep it powered… turn battery disconnect off. The keypad is screwed on so remove and unplug it and plug it back in… does it work now? There’s only 3 wires so do you have 12V on 2 of them? If not, then it may be a fuse… could be behind the TV or in the BR closet. Next I would move it to another location and see if it works there.

04 Dynasty has a BIRD that once the house batteries are up to 13.8, will automatically start charging the engine’s, assuming the contacts in the BigBoy are not corroded…common, easily cleaned. A mppt controller is more efficient and the current solar wires are big enough IF you run your panels in series… higher voltage. Mount the mppt controller next to the inverter so the 12V cables are short. 600W might give you 25 amps for a net 10 amps into the batteries over 10 hours. Yes, a Dynasty will easily use 15 amps unless you turn the inverter off… go for the 800w if you dry camp often.

If it had spiral hose clamps , I’d say someone got rid of the rectangular one. I’d cut the hoses and and use spiral camps.

I own a bunch of different size trailers… single axle to 20T. Instead of repacking and after making sure the wheel bearings are tight, I put 90 weight gear oil in the cap and slap it back on… been doing this for decades. Can’t do that on our Monaco’s so I drill a hole in the end of the cap, thread it for a 1/4” pipe plug. I put about a cup of 90 in to soften the grease, but not enough to have it leak past the seal. I check wheel bearing tightness when changing tires.

08 Navigator’s is under the removal panel top of the dash drivers side.

My role model is a 84 year old couple that bought a brand new 45’ Beaver and drove it from South Carolina to Oregon for a Beaver rally in 3 days. She was limping from having broken her leg snow skiing the previous winter. Hopefully in 6 years I’ll still be RVing at 84 and if I break down on the road and can’t fix it myself, Visa will solve most problems. While being fixed, I’ll use our toad to continue on, or do some sightseeing in the area, or wherever until it’s fixed. If it’s going to take too long; Delta is ready when you are.

08 Navigator’s is behind front axle drivers side and fortunately it has a on/off switch in the side console. Need to replace it this winter and found this compressor to be much quieter than the ValAir.

Because there’s a synchronizing cylinder in the system it’s actually a good idea to not immediately let up on the switch when the slide stops moving… not going to hurt anything and it may move the debris from the valve.

LED are very thin so when replacing I mounted them on the face of the cabinet. Added hinges to the BR TV’s metal mount and went with a 40” Smart Samsung.

I hang my TV on a door like yours with 2 metal straps with a U on the end. Store it upright on the edge of a sliding tray. You could add 4 right angle brackets to sit/store it under the black area of the bay.

3 of the 4 slide topper’s have enough unused fabric to cut off the used and re-sew all 4 sides. Better than new if you use UV thread. I cut off most of the used on the LR big slide and re-sew.

Is there any resistance when you pull on the handle? If none… moves easily, you’re not going to get it open from the outside. If there is resistance, while someone is pulling the handle open, push in almost at the top of the door and pound on it too…there’s latches near the top and bottom of the door. Some combination of pushing on the door and pulling on the handle may get it to open.

The 21 Whirlpool I installed draws 8 amps DC measured before inverter…96 watts. On average it uses 1.3KW measured with a KW meter… that works out to a 40% duty cycle and 16 cents/day to run. One good 12V battery will run it 20+ hours before needing to recharge at 50% SOC.