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RV owners are an interesting bunch. The waste gate should bleed off excess boost so with it not working it could theoretically over boost. But I doubt fixing the waste gate will increase your boost from 24 to 31. The boost loss is probably in the turbo, the hose couplers, or the CAC.

Hope you find the bad cable. There may be a connection on the outside of the battery box. Does your Executive have an ISX? If so, you may need to install one of the new gear reduction starters. It will turn over much faster and require fewer amps.

Buy a can of Hosa Deoxit: Amazon.com: DeoxIT D5S-6 Spray, More Than A Contact Cleaner, 142g, Integrated Straw, Pack of 1 : Automotive Clean ALL of the RJ11 plugs (phone wire) and receptacles. There will be RJ11 couplers on the inside of the coach under the A/C vent cover. Replace them. Good luck!

I assume you had a Heliotrope RV-30 charge controller? If so, then the the engine battery charge circuit was limited to 3 amps at 13.4 volts. I'd wire your new MPPT controller to the house battery. Then make sure your BIRD system is working correctly. How many solar panels do you have? Assuming you have several solar panels you could install a 2nd charge controller for your engine battery and wire it to one of the panels.

It sounds like the start solenoid may be bad. Possibly not getting the neutral signal from the transmission. Is the air parking brake set solid all the way up? Some additional suggestions: Have you tried the boost switch? It is a rocker switch on the drivers left console that combines the two battery sets. Many of these coaches require both battery sets to crank the original starter. Are the chassis batteries charging when plugged into shore power? If not, check the Intellitec Big Boy solenoid in the rear electrical run bay to the right of the engine. There is a new gear reduction starter available for these engines. It takes less current to crank over and also cranks the engine over much faster. Good luck!

Most of these coaches use two oil pressure sending units. One is installed by Cummins and reports to the engine ECU only. The other is installed by Monaco and is wired to the dash red light as well as the gauge. Monaco usually used a VDO number 360 023 with two outputs, one to the idiot light and one to the gauge. These sending units are available on eBay as well as Amazon and are used on all kinds of vehicles including dune buggies. Check your owners manual. Many of them have the oil pressure sending unit part number listed near the back.

That Shurflo pump motor should be easy to replace. It may even be rebuildable with a new set of brushes.

I agree with Gary. You can run through the troubleshooting procedures but I would probably ohm check the flame sensor. Then call Hannah Carrillo at "Heat My RV" and order a new flame sensor. They are relatively inexpensive and easy to change. If you need advice, John is the tech expert but Hannah will get the parts out to you. Hannah Carrillo 720.448.1068 Good luck!

What is the basic issue you are trying to resolve? Have you connected a heavy diesel code reader to the port and does it operate?

Beautiful coach. I'd recommend updating your headlights with a quality LED kit. If the original headlight lenses are yellowed, I'd replace them. Then convert your fog lights to driving lights. The fog lights are currently wired to only work with low beams, so you'll need to locate the relay and rewire it.

I agree. The PNW Tool window latches are billet alum then anodized. They should last a lifetime. Pacific Northwest Tooling (pnwtool.com)

This will only work if you install a retrofit control board. You will need to purchase it separately.

Carl, I also had a fresh water leak in our Aqua Hot. If you are very lucky it could be in the plumbing between the cabinet entry and the boiler. But, more than likely it's in the fresh water copper loop that wraps around the outside of the boiler. On these early systems the fresh water copper tubing wraps around the outside of the boiler. The area near the bottom exhaust port is exposed and can develop leaks. Some guys have managed to repair the copper tubing on the existing unit. Others have elected to replace the boiler assembly. It's a lot of work removing the entire Aqua Hot unit so I elected to replace the boiler. I'm so glad we did this as it works so much better now. The picture attached below shows the bottom of the boiler where the copper tubing is exposed and developed a leak. This link is to the thread where I replaced the boiler.

Are wire nuts still approved for RV use? My new A/C came with a totally different 120v connector.

Check the silicone hoses and clamps that adapt the steel crossover pipe from the charge air cooler to the intake manifold. There should be one hose on each side.

All of our coaches have had chains to limit downward travel. They are hard to see, but they're there. Sometimes they have a black plastic cover over the chain.

Monaco usually installed one 12V 100-watt solar panel and a Heliotrope RV-45D PWM charge controller. The Heliotrope charge controller is in the ceiling of the main basement compartment under the plywood cover. You can go wild and replace everything with 2000+ watts of panels and a new MPPT charge controller along with larger wiring. Or you can just replace the single 100-watt panel with up to three 225 watt 12-volt panels and retain your Heliotrope charge controller. Your Heliotrope charge controller charges both your house and chassis battery and has a capacity of up to 45 amps. Please understand that even three 225-watt panels are not going to provide much useable power. Good luck!

Our 2007 Executive had elbows (I believe from the factory) but our 2004 Signature does not. I thought about fabricating screens to help. When the pressure transducers were only $30, I just changed them every few years. Now they are over $80 each. Aladdin Tank Sensor 16622728 - Northwest RV Supply (nwrvsupply.com) Slightly cheaper here: CATCON Products |RV Products

Are these the ones on the roof? If so, mine were also siliconed in. I think that's so water doesn't leak in. I used a pair of hemostats to hold the wires.

I couldn't find anything on the Aladdin system from My RV Works but there is a very good YouTube video from AZ RV Expert.

Doug, You might want to try cleaning the RJ-11 plugs to see if that helps. I found a junction box in the main basement just above the plywood ceiling cover. It was next to the solar charge controller. Some of the coaches have one in the dash on the passenger side. Have you replaced the sensors in the last few years? If not, it probably needs new sensors anyway.

I'm interested if your Aqua Hot still works in all 3 zones? Thanks

Make sure whoever reattacks this thoroughly cleans both surfaces. Attached is the Corian joint adhesive guide. Corian-joint-adhesive-general-information.pdf

This thread should answer your Blue Sea questions: https://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/replace-big-boy-with-blue-sea-ml-acr-468617.html This Blue Sea install is in a Windsor: https://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/windsor-owners-blue-sea-ml-acr-install-i-need-spare-wires-front-and-back-540763.html

It looks like you have some work cut out there. But, not too bad. Instead of an Intellitec Big Boy isolation solenoid I'd use a Blue Sea ML-ACR available on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-Automatic-Charging/dp/B001VIXLRO/ref=sr_1_2?crid=2DL3RI6KWQ5Q6&keywords=blue%2Bsea%2Bml-acr&qid=1682971622&sprefix=blue%2Bsea%2Bml-acr%2Caps%2C165&sr=8-2&th=1 You may have to run an additional wire for the combining function but it's a much better solution. There are several discussions on this subject. Good luck!