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Not sure what brand lead acid, but Trojan T-105 are the most popular. CHARGING INSTRUCTIONS: CHARGER VOLTAGE SETTINGS (AT 77°F/25°C) SYSTEM VOLTAGE 6V Bulk Charge 7.41 Float Charge 6.75 Equalize Charge 8.10 Double these voltages for series parallel 12v applications. It appears you have some incorrect settings or a poor connection.

You can download your owner's manual here: Monaco RV Service & Repairs - Monaco Coach Do you have the optional Inverter, or the standard converter? Regardless they are designed to charge your house batteries. The alternator is only designed to maintain voltage when driving, not recharge the batteries. Review page 170 as it explains your charging system. NOTE: The alternator is not designed to charge the house batteries from a complete discharge to a full state of charge. The alternator will maintain the battery charge during travel, supplying the DC current necessary to operate running lights or other DC loads. If the house batteries are in a low state of charge, it is recommended to charge the house batteries with the converter/inverter or an auxiliary battery. Caution: The alternator is not a battery charger. The alternator is designed to maintain proper electrical system voltage. A battery with a low state of charge, or a dead battery, may overheat and damage the alternator. Hope this helps.

Maybe try dying them?

Battle Born lithium batteries are popular, but are expensive and present a host of problems. You cannot charge or discharge lithium in extreme temperatures and you should disconnect the alternator from them. I installed four Trojan T-105 six volt golf cart batteries. I found them at our local golf cart store for $129 each. Some sets of Trojan batteries are lasting almost 10 years.

These toilets were built by Sealand. They are quality built porcelin toilets for RV and boats. They were so good Dometic bought the company. A residential toilet will not fit the flange and wouldn't work well going down the road. Water from the tank would slosh all over. One of our Monacoers has reverse engineered the control board and made it much better. Contact PWhittle and he'll get you flushing again fast.

Your seats were made by Villa International. You can start by contacting them. They are a great company to work with. (562) 404-8111 Can you explain why you need to replace just the seat belts?

What a great job! Thanks for sharing.

Guy B your post and pictures are great. I'm getting ready to do this also. How did you handle the mass of wiring that goes to the Aqua Hot? Did you disconnect and label each one? Is there anything you would do different? Thanks

I'd first try a thermostat reset. Turn the thermostat off (small black button on the underside). Hold down both the top and bottom buttons while switching the thermostat on. You will see FF in the display. Then see if the zone 1 furnace shows up. If this doesn't restore it, then you have either a bad connection in the RJ11 cord, or the control board dip switches are not set correctly. I'm guessing the latter as there should be several dip switches set to duplicate the original control board.

Check your house battery voltage with the inverter charger turned off.

Wow, that's a great find. How many miles are on your N14? It wouldn't be that difficult to remove the oil pan and roll new rod bearings in. You could also check the main bearings but they are probably fine. But removing the engine is a tough job in these motor homes and will be expensive. I'd start by backing it up onto some homebuilt ramps made from stacked 2"x10" boards. Drain the oil. Remove the oil pan and then start checking and changing rod bearings. You may have to remove the trailer hitch and starter for access. Best of luck!

Get the FCC ID code from the back of an old fob. Then look up the frequency for that ID code online. I then purchased a new Remocon RMC-105 universal remote fob from:https://www.cruisingforremotes.com/They preset the frequency and I programmed it to my receiver.

I was able to purchase a Remocon programmable key fob and program it to the coach. I found the frequency on the back of an old remote and then ordered a programmable Remocon fob from an online seller. The online seller set it to the frequency. I later purchased another fob and the programmer and did it myself.

Yes. You're right about RR. But the Dynasty, Executive, and Signature are built on the "S" series chassis. Attached is the Roadmaster chassis chart showing all the different versions. Roadmaster Chassis models.doc

What length is your Dynasty? Our 42' Signature should be similar. It's an "S" series chassis. RR designates rear radiator and you have a side radiator. The drive axle brakes are disc.

Yes. The original Heliotrope RV45D charge controller will easily handle your three 200w panels. I would parallel the 4-gauge wire with the existing wire. Unless you're going to use it to pull the new wire through. The existing wire runs from the roof down behind the refrigerator to the basement, then across the basement ceiling to the passenger side to the charge controller.

I'd leave the original Heliotrope solar system and devote it to your chassis battery. Or, you could also try connecting your four new 200w panels to your existing Heliotrope charge controller. I have three 225w panels connected to mine and have never exceeded it's 45 amp capacity. Panels lying flat on the roof never approach their rated output.

Many times when you have a turn signal or tail light issue it's caused by the trailer tail light connector wiring. Inside the rear electrical run box (just to the right of the engine) is a 3 to 2 wire tail light converter. It is used to convert the separate tail light/turn signal on your coach to a combined tail light turn signal on a trailer. Check this converter and the wiring down to the 7-way trailer tail light receptacle.

You have a 12v issue. It may be with the batteries or the Intellitec multiplex system or both. What type and how old are your batteries?

Premium Coach Group in Gilbert AZ had a 2009 Signature a few years ago. The owner (an IRV2 member) sold it to them because he was unable to repair the Kongsberg system. The guys at Premium coach Group were able to repair it somehow.

Wow, I love the newer Signatures. The Cambridge is a 1 1/2 bath model and one of my favorites. It makes me very sad to see this.

This is a link to my post. Check out posts #11 and 13. The exhaust must hang from the generator slide out, so it goes in and out. http://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/replacing-onan-generator-exhaust-pipe-351717.html

These are custom made by the coach builder. I had to have a new Onan generator tail pipe made. Our original was mangled when we bought the coach. I purchased a new exhaust pipe adapter from Onan and a length of stainless exhaust pipe tubing. I took it to a muffler shop with a detailed drawing. He bent the tubing and I did s trial fit and we had to mske a couple of adjustments. We then welded on a chrome tip and it was done. I had help from an IRV2 member with a similar coach.

Here's the link to the alternative Aqua Hot pumps: https://www.irv2.com/forums/f278/this-is-my-final-installment-on-the-ah-pump-dilemma-528495.html

See if they will warranty the pump.