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I replaced the round metal "photo disc" on the front of the diesel burner and reinstalled it. Now the diesel burner will not run. It's very quiet. I removed it again and tested fuel pressure. It's not getting any fuel or blowing air. But, the spark works continuously. Initially i thought it was something I had done wrong. I spent some time troubleshooting and could not find any misplaced wires. This time after removal I could hear pieces rattle when I turn it over. I'm pretty sure the clutch is broken. I thought about this overnight and decided to send the diesel burner in for rebuild.

Many of your systems (interior lights and Aqua Hot burner) run on 12v. The inverter is required to recharge the batteries. I leave our inverter on 24/7.

I'd say no. If it's running well with no codes I'd leave it alone, especially with a good working Banks kit. Any updates would be for emissions.

This last time I used Valvoline Dex/Merc synthetic ATF because it was less expensive than non-synthetic. $17.98 per gallon at Walmart. Hydraulic systems are pretty forgiving on the type of oil as long as it's clean and you don't heavily stress the system until warm. https://www.amazon.com/Blinker-Fluid-HAND-VERSION-Hilarious-Gift-Stocking-Stuffer-Car/dp/B06ZXSKDZG/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1LUQMV2RWTVMS&keywords=blinker+fluid&qid=1680056806&sprefix=Blinker%2Caps%2C170&sr=8-1

Gary, did you force boiler fluid through the zones one at a time, or all three together?

It operates your engine cooling fans. On ours the small braided steel lube hose developed a leak and I changed it.

I would spray the threads with PB Blaster right now (and make sure you spray the four axle bolts plus the threads on the top of the air bag also). Then spray everything again. And spray again the night before you are removing the air bags. Try to get the box end wrench on the nut. If it won't fit, loosen the four bolts holding the axle for more clearance. If you needed to do this more than once, then I'd make the special tool, but this is a one-time change and the new air bags should be good for another 20 years.

We have quite a few racers towing stacker trailers with Monaco Executives and Signatures as well as Holiday Rambler Navigators.

I've replaced a couple of the factory rope lights with newer LED light strings. I found the LED light strings on Amazon. Less expensive and more reliable than the originals.

Discovery 17, I saw some of the My RV Works videos. He's a great teacher with lots of patience. Gary, I was thinking I had a bad fuel solenoid also, but it's working okay for now. Ben, good idea about the seal. It would have to be heat resistant. I'm now thinking the smoking is caused because the photo disc is warped. The round metal plate the flame sensor mounts to is called the photo disc. The photo disc should provide the seal against the combustion chamber, not the pump assembly. I'm learning, some of it the hard way.

Paul and I purchased rebuild kits from here: Gary Manchester 7315 W. Wilson Ave. Harwood Heights, Ill. 60706 ph: 708-887-6320 Fax: 708-887-5009 manchester@qccorp.com He can also sell you a new pump or rebuild yours. Removing that pump was a tough. The large hydraulic hose B-nuts were extremely hard to loosen. http://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/sauer-danfoss-hydraulic-pump-rebuild-455664.html#post4895665

I removed my steel hose adapter and took it to the power coat shop. They sand blasted it and powder coated it black. Came out looking better than new.

I made some progress! I replaced the flame sensor and the diesel burner ignited. I cheered loudly! However, it was smoking badly so I shut it down and checked everything. I removed the diesel pump and one of the rubber grommets was out of place. I put it back into the notch and reinstalled the diesel pump. I started it again and the smoke is better, but still not as good as it used to be. I may need to remove the pump again and see why it’s not seating all the way. The diesel pump just doesn't fit this boiler opening as snug as it fit the original. I think the flame sensor sitting in sunlight for a few days while I overhauled the unit caused it to fail (it may have been on it last legs anyway). It read 60 ohms light or dark. The specs are 300 ohms or less when exposed to light, and 300,000 ohms or more when dark. The flame sensor is one of the easy parts to replace. Just 1 Phillips screw holds it to the burner plate. My zone 2 and 3 pumps come on so I think the wiring is good. However, they have lost their prime. These older pumps are situated at the top of the unit and require priming by applying air pressure to the boiler. I am making up a short heater hose to attach to the boiler fill port (this boiler doesn’t have a radiator cap) with a Schrader valve so I can pressurize the tank. I'll order the Schrader valve and hose adapter. I think I'm getting closer if I can figure out the smoking issue.

I've just overhauled our Aqua Hot and learned a lot about the system. I'm not sure how your diesel burned can come on without being selected inside the coach. The diesel burner system runs on 12V DC and the electric heating element runs on 120V AC. I assume with a 2008 model you have the Intellitec multiplex system. It is applying power to the relays to turn on/off the systems you select. I would watch your Aqua Hot system closely to see if there are any more anomalies.

I agree. These companies are playing upon uneducated drivers fears. The key to surviving a front blowout is to not stomp on the brakes.

I agree. First check the tire pressures with the tires cold. Check the rear also. Do not trust the tire store. What steering box does your coach have, Sheppard or TRW?

I'm not certain on the weight rating on a 1994 model. But most of the early coaches with the C8.3L Cummins and Allison 4 spd trans were rated to tow 5000 pounds. The 5.9L Cummins coaches were rated for less, but it depends. What are you trying to tow?

Yes, it does. And at least on AC electric, it seems much better. The hot water is truly hot even in 30-degree weather.

And maybe not buy a Kia Soul. But it probably could have happened to any small car.

Attached is a picture of the bottom of the old style boiler. This style has the copper pipes wrapped around the outside of the boiler. The copper pipes near the exhaust port are exposed to outside air because the hole in the floor is larger than the exhaust port. In freezing weather this can be a disaster even with a heater in the bay. The picture is turned sideways, so the bottom of the boiler is on the left.

Maybe a Walmart, or can you get an Amazon delivery? You could use a clamp to close off the hydraulic hose on one side, but last time I did this it came out like a garden hose. Maybe wait until you get back to Tucson.

I emailed Esco when our ATS was making noise. He recommended an Esco part number LPT50BRD. This is a new design that is completely silent.

I took Paul's advice and made up a pressure gauge connected to a fuel nozzle. I thought I was drilling a soft brass nozzle, but they have a hard stainless steel insert. I ended up drilling it from the back side and pushing the stainless insert out the back. Then I drilled and tapped it to 1/8" NPT. I installed the pressure gauge with nozzle adapter on the diesel pump and ran the system with the pump laying in the tray. About 20 seconds after tuning it on I saw 1 spark and the fuel pressure rose to 140-145psi. I tried it twice with the same result. I removed the gauge and reinstalled the standard nozzle and pump into the system. This time when I ran the system, I again had 1 spark (you can here it) and good fuel flow. but no ignition. This morning I again removed the pump and disconnected and checked the resistance of the photo cell flame sensor. Regardless of whether the sensor was covered or uncovered, it measured about 60 ohms. I'm going to replace the flame sensor and try again.

The heat/sound insulation mat under our Aqua Hot cabinet was in bad shape. I used this mat as a replacement. Car Heat Sound Deadening Insulation Mat, - 197 Mil 10.8 Sqft Automobile Sound Deadening & Heat Insulation Material for Auto Hood Engine Roof Door and Trunk,40 Inch x 40 Inch, Aluminum Foil Finish (amazon.com) I used the standard fiberglass hot water heater insulation kit from Home Depot to cover the new boiler. Frost King Fiberglass Water Heater Insulation Blanket SP57/11C - The Home Depot Along with this alum tape. Nashua Tape 1.89 in. x 30 yd. Water Heater Installation Air Duct Tape 1529787 - The Home Depot

Yes. I purchased the new boiler assembly from John Carrillo. A few years ago when my ignition coil failed, he was very helpful. However, he has been less than helpful this time. John Carrillo- Heat My RV 7800 Miller Dr Unit C, Frederick, CO 80504 Phone: (970) 518-3085