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Wow, that's a beautiful Villa International furniture set. Hope someone finds a home for it.

Ernie Ekberg and his son Brent specialize in RV tile and carpet installation. They have done some beautiful tile conversions. RV Flooring (newellgurus.com)

Your Heliotrope solar charge controller is adjustable. It has small jumpers that you move around to adjust it. I found it easier to set up if I completely removed. Also, it charges both you chassis and house batteries simultaneously.

Most of these coaches need a recharge once a year. They just sit for too long in between trips. You can purchase an inexpensive set of gauges from Harbor Freight and R134a refrigerant and learn how to do it yourself.

I wouldn't worry about the pre-DEF ISX 600 engine at 64k miles. In fact, of the available engine options I would prefer it. I would research the Kongsberg multiplex system and thoroughly check all systems controlled by it. The Monaco Signature is a lot of bang for the buck. Best of luck!

Subscribing. Owning a motor home is forcing me to learn automotive A/C systems.

The interior woodwork is held together with square drive screws. You'll need both a short and a long square drive bit and lots of patience. Some of the screws are well hidden. Good luck!

Remove all power from the coach. Both AC and 12V. So, unplug from shore, turn main AC breakers off, turn off house battery disconnect at the batteries. Good luck. If that doesn't help, call the Magnum tech line. Bloomington, MN 55437T: 800-553-6418 or 651-653-7000 Inverter troubleshooting guide: General Inverter Troubleshooting | Magnum Dimensions (magnum-dimensions.com)

Welcome! Looks like you found a great coach. Best of luck.

That looks like a very nice Moen faucet.

I'm trying to understand. Where and how are you measuring the 4 to 4.5 amps? You do realize that is all that system will produce? You could replace the 90-watt panel with a 400-500 watt panel configuration. The Heliotrope RV-30 is good for up to 30 amps. However, it's an older PWM charge controller. That's not all bad because it splits the charge current to the house and chassis batteries.

Yes. Get two group 31 batteries with the highest CCA you can. Have yours tested before you replace them.

I'd recommend you replace the head bolts. Sounds like the originals stretched.

I use Blue Dawn dish soap. It keeps the tank clean and keeps the bugs down.

No. The Blizzard NXT bolts in the same way the Penguin I and II, Brisk Air I and II, and even the Coleman Mach series air conditioner does. Four bolts from underneath. This bolt pattern is based on the 14" roof vent size. I'll look to see if I have any pictures. The primary issue is thermostat compatibility with any of the new air conditioners and the additional 2" height.

There are two possible issues. Under the bathroom sink is an anti-backflow valve. Sometimes they plug up. Check here first as it's easier to access. On the other side of the tank is the flush sprayer and sometimes they plug up. You have to remove the sprayer and use a small drill bit to unclog it. Picture of sprayer.

From the owner's manual: ATC Switch: Activating the ATC switch reduces ECU control over engine torque. Momentarily pressing the ATC switch allows the ECU to increase the amount of engine torque applied to the drive wheel in an ATC event. The amount of engine torque applied to the drive wheel will vary with the amount of drive wheel slip versus road speed. In an ATC event, the ECU remains active regardless of road speed or switch position. The indicator light flashes slowly when the ATC switch is activated. Disabling ATC for Dynomometer Testing: 1. Turn the ignition key to ON. 2. Press and hold the diagnostic button for at least three seconds and release. 3. The ATC light turns ON and the ABS light blinks 17-8, indicating the ATC system is disabled. All subsequent flashes are active ABS fault codes. 4. The ATC system will be enabled when the ignition is switched off then back to on.

Try resetting the panel. Hold the power on switch until you hear an alternating tone and it will shut off. Then try it again. PHONE:(250) 832-6477

I had a leak there also. I had to clean everything well. I raised the air suspension up and placed jack stands under the rear crossmember. Then started the engine and watched for the exact spot it was leaking. Mine turned out to be the small rubber hoses going from the trans to the PTO had rubbed through. I had new lines made up. I also had a leak where the hydraulic pump bolts to the PTO. I used a double gasket and The Right Stuff gasket sealer to seal it.

Wow, that's great information.

I just installed a new Dometic Blizzard NXT 15k in place of a Penguin II. The bolt pattern is the same. The Blizzard produces a full 350cfm and is the highest output AC that Dometic makes. However, the Blizzard NXT is 13.7" tall while the Penguin is 11 1/4". I found a great price on Amazon, but the best way to find one is to shop around online. Most of these are drop shipped direct from warehouses.

You could try reconnecting your original Sauer Danfoss electronic fan controller to see if it displays, but it wouldn't be accurate anyway. I agree with you the mechanical wax valve is more reliable than the electronic fan controller.

Wow! I'm sorry. Where in AZ are you?

Our brake light issues were caused by the old trailer wiring. I removed it and installed a new 3 into 2 trailer tail light converter and everything has been fine since. Hope you get it figured out.

From page 304 in the 2002 Signature owner's manual: The automotive fuses and emergency flashers are located in the front electrical panel. There is also a nice picture.