cbr046

I put short ramps under each wheel - maybe 2 ft x 2x10, then a shorter and a shorter 2x10 then drive onto the ramps 2" at a time. At the end of the ramps I put large blocks to avoid running off the end of the ramp 😮 . These abbreviated ramps aren't overly heavy. And yes, you need to support both tandem wheels. I don't have a tag so can't comment on the extra axle. My purpose is to level the coach on unlevel concrete, so each wheel has a different ramp "prescription". If I need to work on the coach I'll air up the suspension then put LARGE 8x8 blocks under the retracted jacks, shimmed to near zero space. If anything happens to the bags the coach will only drop as far as the blocks under the jacks. At this point I'm comfortable extending the jacks a bit without fear of being crushed to death. If I need to remove a wheel I'll extend the jacks to unweight the axle with wheels still on the ground, then use a floor or bottle jack to get the wheel off the ground. The floor jack only needs to lift a few hundred pounds on the side being serviced, not the full weight of the axle. This way you can "fine tune" and adjust the lifted wheel. Of course this is what *I* do . . . . - bob

I don't know if what I was told is true, but "they face in so they don't break off if something gets gets into the dish" . . . . so why not a stubby valve stem? - bob

I've seen female Molex pins actually expand where they're in the socket but not actually touching the male counterpart. Add some current and it gets worse. Who knows. After watching @MyronTruex video (again) I'm guessing my problem is at 7:13 in the video. Hence the "slight burning smell". Maybe tomorrow I'll crawl under and contort myself (again) or pull the dash apart (again) and see what I can find. https://youtu.be/usiP4myzxxU?t=433 If I do find something definite I'll post it. Or just roll the dice and drive. Driving by the light of 4-way flashers isn't so bad. 😲 - bob

Well, it wasn't the headlight switch . . . . Installed new switch and still no headlights (high or low). I noticed the old switch was date coded 2017. Hmmmm. I started checking fuses, connectors, etc. I couldn't find a common ground bus bar under the dash or in the front compartment. I finally opened the access panel under the transmission selector (lots of wires run through here to the FRB) and fiddled with the harnesses. Headlights started working. Now I can't get them to fail. So it remains a mystery. Next trip at the end of the month will be daylight only hours, going and coming. I'll see if they're still working after all the vibration. - bob

What's wrong with the 'S' brackets? My PO removed them and I haven't seen how they work . . . . straps from the topper drum to the side of the coach is the best I can figure. I'd love to find the right length straps. - bob

Yup, trichlorotrifluoroethane and / or tetrafluoroethane. Pretty common "back in the day". I may still have some . . . . I would NEVER spray WD-40 into electronics, which is mostly kerosene. - b

Make a post or drop me a PM if you get EGT showing on your ScanGaugeD. EGT doesn't show up in their standard 15 command set, but according to their website more commands are available through their X-Guage commands. I'd like to verify EGT availability before I jump into a purchase. https://www.scangauge.com/products/scangauge-d/ - bob

If I had one! 🤣 In searching for the cause of the "slight burning smell" the shaft of the switch was warm. Not hot, just warm. dash light dimmer was near 100%. When I adjusted the dimmer amount the headlights went kaput. It lasted 20 years and is a known weak point. I think a new switch will last longer than the coach. - bob

It's academic to me. I got pretty mesmerized about 30 min into the tour after the 2nd milling machine. I spot video'd after that. Your selection of hand tools is absolutely incredible. Unless one of us wins the lottery (and you have to play to win) we're just going to stick with our pole barn and cracking concrete (thank you mr. contractor). At least we have a full 50A for the RV and 30A for visitors. The amount of time putting all this together and then working on projects . . . . do you ever sleep? - bob Our pole barn concrete is 24' wide. I try to park the coach on one 12' wide section so there's room for an visitor's on the other side . . . . or maybe a small pickleball court? The barn supports are 28' apart with 32' span under roof and 48' length. The coach is 39' foot long and I had to "justify" the extra 9' (and extra width). The barn was custom built. I don't ask the DW what it cost, just grateful to have it. It's pretty basic. As Joe Friday would say, "Just the facts, maam". - b

LED headlights, 2/3 reduced load - bob

Truly the ideal shop & setup, way above my paygrade 😉 . Feel like making a walk-about video outlining all the unique features? Start at the curb . . . . Then post it in the Monaco YouTube site. Go ahead, make thousands jealous! - bob

My headlights stopped working about 10 miles from home last night. I kept smelling "something burning", like plastic, for hours before their demise. The final coffin nail was when I adjusted the dash light intensity then <POOF> NO HEADLIGHTS (dash lights still ok). We got home with worthless fog lights and by the light of 4-way flashers. FUN STUFF! Can anyone confirm compatibility of this switch for a 2003 Holiday Rambler Endeavor? I would imagine the same switch part # for centuries, but . . . . TIA, - bob

You're such a tease . . . - bob

@Tom Cherry, are saying you DON'T recommend this battery restoration company? Seems legit to me 🤣🤣🤣 Cheers, - bob

No longer available on Amazon - not even listed. Vatrer website says the 460Ah is out of stock also. And his video is only 2 days old! Amazon has the Vatrer 230Ah for $690, and still comes with Bluetooth monitoring. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CRNMKYK9/ Not sure how long that price will last, or how long the battery will last (real use vs advertised). Will be interesting to see how AZ Expert addresses charging. Part II coming! - bob

Tree limbs happen! Pretty remote possibility but if you brush under a low lying tree limb will it ride over the vent cover then get under antenna and snatch it off? Reversing the mount could have the limb migrating to the mount base and maybe be strong enough to pull through. - bob

There's 3 bolts on the top of the lift pump that you can try to tighten. They're accessed from the bedroom / closet hatch from the top, and one is challenging to get to. This sometimes fixes the leak, but it's temporary at best. It worked on mine . . . . once. The real issue isn't the fuel leaking out but, as the lift pump only operates for the first 30 sec, you'll have air being sucked into the main fuel pump. You can buy a new lift pump at whatever cost ($$$) and it will probably last as long as you keep the coach. Or you can bite the bullet, install a FASS system and bypass the lift pump FOREVER, plus it gives your CAPS or HPCR fuel pump a break by not pulling all the way from the main fuel tank. And if you ever have to replace one of those . . . . . well, it's a LOT of dollar signs! - bob

With the engine off and a quiet surrounding you can't detect other leaks? If it's a faint hiss I'd suspect the compressor isn't up to snuff. Or a clogged air dryer? Just guesses on my part. It should continue to build up to 125 psi. If you can't drive it (and I agree, 75 psi is too low) you might locate a mobile mechanic first. Maybe someone can recommend a good MM in Central FL. Good luck, - bob

I would question why you need that much energy for such a long time. 70 hours is a full 3 days! Are you running multiple electric fryers or something? I'm going to assume you're outside hobnobbing with other tailgators in front of your coach. Can you run off batteries convert to lithium batteries or run a smaller / more quiet generator at the back? I run a Predator 3500 for all my needs and have a Honda 2000 fitted with a cap where I can draw fuel from a 5 gal can. But even with the Predator if the weather is nice I use it mostly to recharge the batteries one time during a weekend. Of course that would mean hauling a separate genny and the fuss of shutting down and refilling the fuel tank. I get the convenience of the on-board generator. But the Cummins / Onan generators are tanks. I wouldn't be afraid to extend oil changes to 250 hrs to get more in sync with your fuel & air filter changes. Maybe consider a full synthetic, like Rotella T6, for extended oil changes. In my old 4-Runner I went 15,000-20,000 miles using Mobil1 full synthetic between changes. At 350,000 miles it still wasn't using any oil. And I still regret trading it in for a shinier 4-Runner! Just alternate thoughts. I've never tail gated so you're in a whole different world than mine. - bob

MY BAD!!! My system is Even Brake, not Brake Buddy. Looking at the 2 instruction sets Brake Buddy is much simpler! The Even Brake needs to see toad vehicle brake lights as confirmation the toad brake pedal is pressed by the unit. My "installation" was static - no base plate but I had to verify the Even Brake would work (purchased used). https://www.roadmasterinc.com/pdf/85-4593.pdf But I knew I had to locate a brake signal . . . - bob

Edit: I'm quoting Brake Buddy when I have an Even Brake system. I needed a brake signal when testing my Brake Buddy. Otherwise it wouldn't activate. - b

If I remember right the brake signal enables the Brake Buddy to brake but uses an accelerometer to drive the proportional braking and push on the toad's brake pedal. You should be able to swap with other relays. If the relay looks the same it's probably ok to swap. "Your mileage may vary". I considered the Horn relay the one I could do without (for a short time). - bob

When the MH is neglected it "acts up" and requires attention. I have a DW like that . . . . But if you use it regularly it purrs like a Swiss watch. I had the shaft break in my topper once. It made a loud bang (spring unwinding), unrolled and started beating the side of the RV at 70 mph. Trying to resolve it on the shoulder of I-75 was NUTS! I ended up tip-toeing to the next exit and disassembled it for the rest of the trip. The shaft broke in two where an internal pin goes through it. Funny stuff there. 🤣 After 50 years of racing on Sunday and working on Monday to this day I find it hard to break the "get home" habit. That and not feeling secure at rest areas and truck stops (Walmart is a zoo). If I get home after the midnite the DW tells me to sleep in the driveway else I may be SHOT (literally). Good advice I say. - bob

🤣🤣🤣 - b

Always ohm test with power off and diode disconnected from anything at one end. I don't know where they're actually located . . . . hidden in the harness maybe? - bob