Tom Cherry

Chris Throgmartin and his Stove Vos company made my toppers and used Vinyl in 2015 after the Sunbrella OEM's failed and the stitching was failing.  They are in great shape. He has expanded and designed Guardian Plates for slide repair....and now has a RV repair operation...
https://stonevos.com/
http://talinrv.com/
https://talinman.com/guardianplates/
 
@throgmartin  You can contact Chris by PM'ing him the websites above... 

AMEN! Unless you have individual chargers with some diodes the size of a quart jar.  You will eventually kill the AGM!s and damage the flooded or not charge properly. Mixing is impossible unless you have separate charging boards….which I don’t know if they exist in any inverter….
 
My advice is not to swap until you could do a controlled “load teat”.  You have no guarantee that these AGM’s are capable of attaining or being charged back to 100%.  They may be perfect or they may be damaged.  You can not depend on the load test meters unless you go to a real battery shop or find a distributor that has specialized equipment.  I would drop them by a distributor Or dealer that has a rejuvenation charger….most Interstate or sometime lift truck battery dealers have them.  They need to be run down under an appropriate load for 3 cycles to say 40 - 50% and then recharged.  On the final recharge, you then use voltage to determine their true state of charge.  Anything below 80% (see the voltage chart in the Battery 101 file) of the original 100% is not worth messing with….
If they perform and go back to 90 plus %….  Great,  you COULD do the test yourself.  That is detailed in the Battery 101 How To file.  If they work….great.
But if not…you also need to know how to reconfigure your your Magnum remote setup for AGM…as well as determine if they are Type 1 or Type 2 as Magnum has two different charging profiles for AGM.  Us the incorrect one and you will damage and not get full life.  This is not like swapping brands of “D” cells in a flashlight….

Ditto.  The shore comes in via cord or reel and goes directly to the ATS.  The output of the Genny goes directly to the ATS.  When the ATS “SENSES” or measures voltage from the Genny, it automatically switches to Genny….despite having Shore plugged in.
The ATS then takes the power to the main panel with the dual 50 Amp breakers.  You have, or you are being told that one line is dead or open.  Since both sources have the same error, pretty safe to assume that the issues are in the ATS.  IF you have the pictured IOTA, BE ADVISED.  It is a personal safety and fire hazard.  They were recalled, but since Monaco was gone, older coaches were not covered….owners responsible.
REPLACE IT IMMEDIATELY.  The most popular one is the ESCO LPT50BRD, but some prefer other brands.
As far as VOM trouble shooting goes, if you have the skill set to do live and lethal circuit testing, then start measuring the Black & Red to ground and White (neutral). You should have 120 VAC. Check the Red to Black on Shore, assuming 50 A pedestal.  Should be 240 or so.  Test the shore terminals.  Assuming you have a 10 KW Genny, same.  An 8Kw Will be Zero as the legs are in phase.  If you have incoming power….
Then test the “load” or maybe “Line”.  Should be the same look for burned or charred connections.  With shore unplugged and a genny circuit breaker (on Genny) OFF, then check for contact or wire tightness.  If both shore and Genny Have power and the load or line or the only other one doesn’t, bad ATS. 
IF all measure the same, the odds are a loose terminal in the main panel.  Same deal. Measure on the 50 amp breaker.  All power off and a Genny CB off…check lugs.
 
Thats it 

Awning
If you have the bolt on to the slide patio awning, Monaco, at least in 2008 and 2009 and beyond, used motor leads that were one wire size too small.  There is no, to the best of my knowledge, a "FIX".  Motors have been replaced and such. if the voltage was higher, as in 15 - 16 VDC, then odds are, it would work...as the amperage was lower.  But, the controls would have to be bypassed and an auxillary, like a power tool motor used.  The techs use a drill motor to test.  You can search and read more about it here.
Step Cover.  
Make yourself like a Boa Constrictor and get under there and tighten every fastener in the mechanism (screws into the sides) you can get to.  Use a dry lubricant, like TriFlo or a Teflon and lubricate the worm gear. That is a single drive motor....you can see the worm.  LUBE IT UP.  There are TWO relays in the FRB and they are marked.  Occassionaly, they go bad, so order a REAL BOSCH (not an off brand) pair of 5 pin relays and keep them for a spare.  You have a ton on them so having a spare is a good idea.  NOW....the trick.  Do NOT BUMP or partially start the step. If you bump and it doesn't move.....do NOT let off the switch....sometimes, they ARE SLOW.  Mine is a 2009 and I had it serviced and that was the final diagnosis.  Holding it down....and let it move.  You don't have to move it all the way....but it needs to move in the direction you intended for maybe a foot or so.  Then, when it moves back, it has momentum and fully seats.  If it EVER stalls, then HOLD the switch down in the direction you want it to move and gently, maybe a little bit of a "tug", pull or push under the front cover to get it going.  Mine has "stalled" when going out, but never really moved.  I then hold the RETRACT down and push gently on the cover to get it fully retracted.  There, as it gets older, is a soft spot and when fully out or in, it works....but it you bump it and say OMG....and then let off....it might stall or lock up there.
That's it...

The Chief Bilstein MH & heavy chassis guru told me many years ago, he would not use the stock Bilstein on a Monaco MH if he ever purchased one.  Source spent considerable time and money….like buying different Monaco MH for testing.  They also had several Monaco owners bring in their rigs.  They rented the “Bilstein” Shock Trailer with two full time assemblers that custom built the shocks.  This is exactly what NASCAR does and the “Shock Czar” is the highest paid non exec team member.  They used the stock Bilstein and then played with or customized the internal valving.  Source also paid for several professional test drivers to participate.  Every run on every MH had a driver and at least 1, if not 2, evaluators.  Then they had several circuits laid out.  The original goal was no more than 3 “oscillations” over a dip and the evaluated the “ride quality” as well as the driver evaluated the feel and handling.
NOW BEFORE THE CHIRPING STARTS….understand one thing.  A shock is to control the ride quality.  It may, and that is a big MAY, have an impact on the “handling”, but that is more from the innate feeling or steering control that the driver feels.  Typically, folks always say “WATTS LINK”.  However, your 2006 Dynasty Tag is considered “GREAT AS IS”.  IN fact, some have experimented and adding a Watts link as well as X bars has negligible impact, and that is the opinion of an Ex Sports car professional driver with chassis engineering and design experience.
NOW, to address the OEM Bilstein shocks on your and maybe a tad later Dynasty and above.  They were a special build for Monaco by Bilstein and were “seat of the pants” engineered by folks that should not have been involved.  They WERE HARSH….per the specs.  Why certain execs wanted a harsher shock that the stock “comfort ride” replacement is a hotly debated topic, but that is what lead a lot of owners like you to go to Koni.  Per the Bilstein aftermarket Guru, the comfort shocks were not the same as the OEM.  IIn some cases, Monaco outsourced the shocks and had them painted, reversing the top and bottom, to LOOK LIKE a Bilstein.  This history comes from a lot of original owners, now passed away that were Monaco owners from the mid 90’s.
When Source set out to compete with Koni and have a better shock, customized from Bilstein, they were not able to meet the price point.  I am a retired Engineer that worked in automotive and was always a “handling nut”.  I talked to maybe 20 owners as well as the Bilstein shock guru and Source before I replaced my crappy Monroe’s.  I opted for the Heavy Duty or the larger Source Shocks.  I also added their sway bars and a Blue Ox TruCenter.  That made a world of difference.  The best comment was an off the cuff from mY DW.  I had all the new stuff on and new Bridgestone tires.  She added up the CC bills and said. OK, you have spent a lot on “fixing” the Camelot’s ride.  Take me for a long ride….I want to see exactly what if feels like.  We did a local 75 mile trip on urban, country and interstate roads.  As we were headed back she said…OK, YOU DID GOOD.  The MH rides “heavier”, like the high end custom tour buses that we had on a 5 star tour….which we did many of.  These were the CCI and Prevost busses as I talked to our drivers….way before I ever decided to purchase a MH.
OK…I did all this in the summer of 2012 and I did it in discrete phases and tested the ride and handling after each component.  I knew it rode better, handled better and had less driver fatigue. We headed out I-40 from Raleigh to eventually hit the Natchez Trace and then NO & the FL panhandle.  She is an avid reader, but she could not read more than an hour riding at 62 MPH in an interstate.  She read all the time, except for my boring prattle.  On the third day, I asked….how’s the book?  She said almost finished….need to stop and get some more or I’ll “run out”.  I laughed me rear off and she got a little testy…. “How long did you read each day since we left?”  OM DOUBLE GOD….I’ve read at least 4 hours a day while riding.  THIS IS UNBELIEVABLE and I got a big attaboy for eliminating her headaches by my “upgrades”.  Post Script….I did add the Watts later and the Camelot holds in the curves much better than the Yukon behind it.  Not like my C7 Vette…but unbelievable and i often punch the brakes when I am taking a curve, naturally, too fast.
BOTTOM LINE….consider my experience.  Then take the following “warranty” into account.  
Source are (or mine are) guaranteed for the life of the MH.  I had one leak due to a loose top stud nut and Jim shipped me a replacement with no CC on file.  I paid the return shipping.  No other shock has that guarantee….and the ride is great and I would do it again, except downrate the front after I added the Watts.
Koni will ship you a shock, but charge your CC.  If they agree it is a manufacturing defect, after you ship back the old one, you get a refund.
Bilstein (and this goes back to the 80’s when I upgraded a Volvo DL SW) WILL NOT sell you a replacement or adjust it.  You have to PULL OFF THE DEFECTIVE SHOCK AND SHIP OR CARRY TO AN AUTHORIZED DISTRIBUTOR, WHO SELLS THAT STYLE, THEN THEY INSPECT. If there is still a question, they ship it back.  MEANWHILE, YOU GOT NO SHOCK….UNLESS YOU SAVED ONE.  Then, if Bilstein issue, you get a replacement.
That may have changed, but the Bilstein MH shock rep, who actually had the real fitment charts said he had tried for 20 years to get Bilstein to match Koni….to no avail.
Bottom line. Since Source dropped the price, my decision would be simple.  Buy the Source and get the only shock actually designed and tested on the Roadmaster Chassis….

First   contact Josams on Orlando or Henderson’s in Oregon.  They are the specialists in chassis.  The have the correct Monaco charts.  Get them to give you the dimensions and also where the ride height is to be measured..  Typically it will be from the lower surface of the top plate (where the air bag rests) to the Top surface of the lower plate where the air bag sits.  Some folks quote it based on top to bottom of the steel plates.  Barry is the contact at Josams.
Now call Source and talk to Jim or Scott.  Verify their numbers and the two point on each end to measure.  Based on what I know, the ride enhancing is just custom tuning or controlling the rate of flow in the air bags.  I would not have thought that there was a change in the rides height….but ask
The link below will take you to the Monaco chart. Trust me your 2010 Knight or newer ones were th same as 2009. MNavistarvnere changed anything on the Roadmaster chassis. You have a diagram.  I don’t understand the “flange” definition but Jim or Scott or Batty sho7ld be able to explain 
https://www.monacoers.org/files/category/25-suspension-ride-and-handling/
Good luck
 
 

From the basics as a 2009 Camelot owner.  FIRST, you need to understand HOW this works....otherwise, I would not have a clue to tell you where to begin checking voltages and such....or start to trouble shoot.  If this overwhelms you, then you will need to get a Technician....it is NOT as simple as "push that button and all is well"
BUT....I have addressed TWO KNOW Camelot issues.....and also given you a step by step set of instructions.  You do NOT need a VOM....all you need are some small wrenches and sockets and a $10 part and then tighten up all the incoming power connections to the fuse box.  I THINK it is there....and not an issue with the HVAC.  BUT.....that is an educated guess.....
There are THREE prints that you need to look at.  BUT first, since you are new and MIGHT not understand some of the electrical systems, there are TWO Safety Concerns that MUST BE ADDRESSED....if you have to get a Tech, then he can do them....
Look at the HIGH Current Distribution - 12 VDC PRINT. . 
NOTE.....you have a dangerous condition in your Motor Home.  Monaco installed the WRONG circuit Breaker up front in the lower left corner.  It is what controls or protects your Hydraulic system  It will have 150 Amps on it and a lever and is black.  That SHOULD be changed.  You can use a 100 Amp one.  Amazon has them.  OTHERWISE, you WILL (I know and I did) burn out your hydraulic motor.  This is IMPERATIVE. Technically, it should have been an 80 Amp.  I burned up my hydraulic and I am running the 80....but the 100 will provide protection....your call.  
Then open the Genny and roll it out.  On the RIGHT side is the Hydraulic system.  There is a large "box" with TWO lugs.  That is the START THE PUMP solenoid for the Hydraulic.  Check the nuts on that solenoid and tighten the nuts.  Don't go crazy buy make sure they are TIGHT.   There is Power on the incoming side (long cable).  It comes from the Circuit Breaker in the front bay that needs to be replace.  The other one is OK.  It is safe to work on them unless someone would try to move one of the front slides.  
Next, follow the cable to the MOTOR.  You MUST use a small wrench or socket and take off BOTH cables.  Remove the washers, nuts and cables.  There is a NUT under them.  This NUT keeps the studs (the threaded bolt) TIGHT inside the motor.  It is PROBABLY LOOSE.  Use a proper size wrench or socket and snug it down.  Again...hand tight....so don't twist it off.  Reassemble and all will be well.  If that STUD is loose, then you have a high resistance connection inside the motor.  When that happens, the current flow increases as well as the voltage dropping.  SO the SLIDE moves slow...and eventually WILL kill the motor.  That entire motor and valve assemble and reservoir is almost $2,000....and about $900 labor.  FIX these.  This is Preventative Maintenance.  VERY IMPORTANT....We have had many failures over the years and I( have been on this board for over 13 years and 11 of which was a Moderator and a "Helper"..  DO NOT THINK THIS IS UNIMPORTANT...
Finally....Look in the last bay on the Passenger side....the one beside the Propane tank.  Your ATS is in there.  Look at it.  It will be to the RIGHT of the White Magnum Inverter.  If it says IOTA 50R....then it is a FIRE and PERSONAL SAFETY item.  It can (and it HAS) catch fire.  These were recalled by Navastar when they owned Monaco. OPPS....your Motor Home, like mine was an ORPHAN, so Navastar was not LEGALLY required to replace them.  You need a NEW ATS.  The most popular and reliable ATS, as used by many if not most here, is the ESCO LPT50BRD.  That needs to be done and you need to have it done promptly.
OK>>>>THAT IS THE BACKGROUND TO KEEP YOU and YOUR FAMILY and MH SAFE.....
Your thermostat is NOT powered by any 12 VDC line.  There is a Control Box in the roof top unit of each HVAC box.  That control box does all the work and makes the system work. The control boxes send out low current voltage to the Thermostat.  There is NO direct connection of 12 VDC power to the Thermostat.   If you look at the Air Conditioning Wiring print, notice that there is a 12 VDC Line going to each one.  That line is marked Satellite If I remember.  It is the one that is blowing.  There is NO ONE SIMPLE thing to do to fix it.  You have to start with the basics and then eliminate issues and then fix it.  
MY GUT FEEL (and this is from Experience....and others will agree and others might not).... I think you have a LOOSE power connection going to the fuse panel.  SO, the first task is to do some checks and also some NEEDED.....this is IMPORTANT.....Preventative or Maintenance on the wiring.  Otherwise, you could spend the next months chasing it and also have a hefty repair bill.....and it still not be fixed.
The FIRST step.  Jumper the Salesman Solenoid in the back rear electrical bay.  If the Solenoid has BAD contacts....then the voltage coming to it will be low....and then the current will increase....and then it will blow a fuse.  My HUNCH is when the units are cycling one, they do NOT have a full 12 VDC and then the current goes up....and then the tiny 10 Amp fuse blows.   Go to NAPA and purchase a 781144 Cable.  It is around $10.  Turn OFF the House Battery Switch and the Chassis Battery Switch.  I would disconnect the negative on each set of batteries.  If you go to the back bay on the passenger side, there is a gray box with a turn screw on it.  Open the panel.  The large solenoid is the BOOST Solenoid.  On the RIGHT is the Salesman Switch Solenoid.  Remover the nuts and put the Jumper cable on each side and tighten the nuts.  That will eliminate the Solenoid.  I would say that 90% of the folks here that have a system like yours (the Dynasty is different) have either jumpered or removed that solenoid.  MINE IS GONE.  
Next up....is to tighten the Circuit Breakers that POWER the Fuse Panel in the bathroom.  Here is how you do it.  I have been meaning to do mine....but haven't yet.  Lookc at the Camelot MUX print.  Open the cabinet doors.  You will see THREE black boxes.  These are the Intellitec Output Boxes that run your lighting system.  They are ON a panel.  You need to REMOVE the panel....they usually can be left on.  Behind that panel you will be the terminal strip left lower corner of the print.  The Salesman Solenoid provides the INCOMING power - 2G RED.  You will need to tighten the NUTS on the 5 Circuit Breakers.  The 8G Red is what goes to the Fuse Panel.  The three go to the Black Intelltiec Modules on the front.  The fifth to your bedroom potty.  If these nuts get loose...and they do, then you have a HIGH resistance Connection.
Simple.  YEAH RIGHT.  Make sure the battery switches and cables are OFF.  Once you do this....might take 30 minutes....you have eliminate the GHOST that plague MH's.  Nuts on cables loose as you drive.  Jumpering the Salesman Switch and then tightening these to make sure that you have good power will solve at least 75% of the downstream problems.
DO THIS FIRST.....It is a NEED item and will save you more headaches....than keeping your wife happy.... LOL.
OK>>>>>NOW start following the advice and also the ones that will probably be posted.  You need to shut OFF (use the MODE switch) the back and middle HVAC units.  Run the front one FULL TIME.....see if it works.  Run it over night....  If all is well.  Then add in the REAR ONE.  Run them....if all is well.....then add in the Middle one.  What you are trying to accomplish is seeing, IF THE PROBLEM STILL EXISTS??? and IT MIGHT NOT.....WHICH of the HVAC's is the problem.
MY EXPERIENCE.....we have very FEW failures of the Control Modules in each AC unit.  That is a Printed Circuit Board or Box that is inside the AC on the roof.  You have to pull each shroud or cover to get to them.  SO, I'm betting on a high resistance connection and when all three are running, the DC Voltage drops and the current goes up and the 10 Amp fuse blows.
That's my advice.  It is strictly a mechanical tightening of connections and bypassing a KNOW PROBLEM.  If you wonder what the Salesman Switch does....it was put there at the behest of the dealers so the salesmen at closing could have ONE switch to cut off everything.  NEVER MIND that it will cause owners scads of problems.  Never mind that the contacts will arc and pit.  
That's it.....GOOD LUCK>
 
2011 Camelot MUX 38110675B (Schematic Mult.pdf 12V High Current Dist TGC Rev 1..pdf Air conditioning wiring.pdf

This is the consensus of many members here that have done such as well as a lot of discussions at the Gathering and also battery life and longevity.
First, I like your setup…so this ain’t your first rodeo.  You have a MSW inverter, but many folks have and are still running them with good or excellent success so that is not an obstacle….
Next.  The Samsung is the choice, but it depends on your opening as well as if you have the dreaded “furnace” under the Norcold.  You need to do some searching on the Samsung as there are probably 20 PLUS discussions…..but it is a doable job.  Remember with any residential refrigerator, you remove all the interior or wall insulation,  DO NOT INSULATE the unit,  it need air circulation.  You will also need to insulate the lower outside access panel or opening and put some insulation in the top vent…you probably have the roof vent, so pull it and stuff some in there.  If you don’t, you will loose heat and AC and if it gets cold, odds are the Res Refer will shut down as the new energy efficiency models will not work on a back porch or in an unheated garage.
Batteries,  many of us are somewhat antiquated.  We get 8 - 10 years out of Flooded Trojan T-105 cells.  We use Battery Miser caps from Amazon and check them 3 or 4 times a year.  We check the Specific Gravity and we exercise them to run them down to 50% or so and they last and last.  We see more failure of AGM due to improper charging and bad inverter setup and abuse.  They are great if you totally understand them and also maintain them.  But they are not indestructible.  Quite the contrary.  They do take too well to improper charging or setup and many folks have to replace them prematurely and go back to Flooded cells with CAPS.  Folks will debate and discuss, but that is the opinion of myself and another moderator and we get excellent life.  Lithiums are great if you know their shortcomings s and folks usually abandon the inverter”s charger and are careful and are really high techie types.
Your Samsung, with good batteries, operated in the Energy Saver Mode and the Icemaker OFF will require 2 - 3 hours or Genny charging when off shore.  That is almost the 11 th Commandment.  MOST folks convert their puck or halogen incandescent lights to LED to conserve boon docking power. Most will also have a power strip and turn off all the electronics in the front and rear entertainment centers.  Even “OFF”, they are in standby and suck up juice.  That is a fact….and we have man6 that ran extensive tests….
YOU WILL LOVE A Res Refer and wonder why you waited so long.
Finally, it is fool hardy to try to drill holes to mount some sort of “door lock” as there are coolant tubes everywhere  Much info on locks.  I used a 3D printed one that is made by a small business person.  It works great.  I also designed a “fastening” system that uses SS or Aluminum panel held with High Bond 3M double stick tape and and some, screwed to them wooden braces.  Many have done many different methods,  again…search…this is a well documented topic and just about everything that is to be found anywhere is here…
Do a LOT of RESEARCH.  Measure and remeasure.  Most removed a window as getting in and out the old and new have damaged some dashs.  It can be done,,but the horror stories and getting it wedged and the RV tech’s insistence….mine went in and out and it was a piece of cake….through a side slide window,
 

Jim is one of our helpers on electrical issues.  The newer (2005) Monaco's were "Pre Wired" for towing, but that was for, I THOUGHT, the front controller wire.  If You have NO power on the center Pin, make sure that you have the IGNITION switch ON.  That is how Monaco did it .  Still NO JOY, then trace back the center pin wire and see where it goes.  THEN you can do ONE of the following...
Install a small battery maintainer (there are lots of them that are "weatherproof" and hook up the DC positive from it to the center wire from the 6 Pin. I used a 6 pin and was happy for a long time....and actually still use a 7 to 6 Adapter for my Unbilical.  Ground out the Negative to the Chassis.  NOW, assuming you have a receptacle for the Block Heater and can UNPLUG the Block Heater, plug in the 120 VAC from the Maintainer to the block heater,  Then use your Block Heater switch to turn it on and off.  Some people will run a supplemental 2 wire polarized plug (like is on the maintainer) directly to the Toad and have a two pin plug hooked up directly to the battery.
The OTHER WAY....Go to page 250 and 251 of your manual.  Look at the diagram for the Monaco #1 Rear box.  There is a fuse for Keyed Switch Feed - 10 Amp.  You can purchase an adapter on Amazon that lets you plug in a fuse and also have a Fused Lead from it.  That is what you need....and IGNITION ON signal.  There is also an Ignition ON feed to the Rear Start Switch on page 251.  Doesn't matter.  All you need is a Switched Ignition Feed signal.  Get a 5 Pin Bosch Relay.  You can feed the Ignition Switch into Pin 85 or 86.  Doesn't matter.  If you choose 85, then GROUND goes to 86.  That energizes the relay when the ignition is ON.
NOW, find a lead or a "Tap" point from the Positive of the CHASSIS Battery.  In other words a HOT line.  Purchase a 15 Amp Resettable Circuit Breaker from Amazon or anywhere.  Run the positive HOT BATTERY (you can put in an inline fuse holder - rated at the same size as the CB you are using).  That goes to Terminal 30.  Then run a line from Terminal 87 That is the Normally OPEN contact.  87A is the Normally Closed.  You want the relay to provide power when the Ignition switch is on.
Run Terminal 87 directly to the resettable circuit breaker.....then the other size does to the center pin.  THUS, you have the same charging circuit that is on the newer Monaco's.  Not a hard job.  Little bit of hookup wire.  You can order the Bosch Relay with a plug in adapter. 
https://www.amazon.com/ONLINE-LED-STORE-Waterproof-Harness/dp/B01N66W2XF/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=3LWI9ON4KQYDQ&keywords=bosch+relay+socket&qid=1677628689&sprefix=bosch+relay+socket+%2Caps%2C82&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExSTQwM1RMQjU1SU85JmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNTQzOTQyM01aMFg2SE5FT01WMyZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMzg4NTQ2MjIzOVlaTldJNDVLJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
You want a socket with #12 wires.  I would select a 15 Amp resettable circuit breaker.  That is PLENTY of current to keep a battery maintained.  15 Amp only requires #14 wire.....so you are good to go.  Get a Ratcheting Crimper and some terminals.  You NEED THAT as you will need it, eventually, as some wires will come loose.  Most carry one, or should.
That's it.....

TWO COMMENTS
You can purchase a "Hair and GUNK" removal tool at Lowes or any big box or on Amazon.  It is line a long Zip Tie, but it has notches cut in it all the way down and the points of the notches are pulled out.  It is flexible.  Works great.  Even my "not mechanically inclined" son can use it as his wife had long hair.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/THEWORKS-2PACK-Zip-It-Drain-Cleaning-Tool/5013024311?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-plb-_-ggl-_-PLA_PLB_208_Plumbing-Repair-_-5013024311-_-online-_-0-_-0&ds_rl=1286981&gclid=CjwKCAiAl9efBhAkEiwA4ToriqRkh28i1HkU2KxFGik-vgXoYHtoKTf9NhznOeq1YpzEQGxPx9w8eBoCN-EQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
The OTHER is to PREVENT IT FROM HAPPENING.
https://www.build.com/product/summary/1746054?uid=4125419&jmtest=gg-gbav2_4125419&inv2=1&&&&&&source=gg-gba-pla_4125419!c1705502867!a66087574509!dc!ng&gclid=CjwKCAiAl9efBhAkEiwA4TorijGXTdxCNzcGbed_QR2-VHop-TMCYoBoHGy-HFK-_Nz0_WkrMyfEOxoCJzEQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
You can google Stainless Steel hair bowl strainer and find these. This next one is what I have, except the mesh is tighter.
https://www.amazon.com/Shower-Catcher-Stainless-Bathroom-Lechay/dp/B08TR3QK4B/ref=sr_1_7?crid=3UT7H0FERDD6H&keywords=stainless%2Bsteel%2Bshower%2Bdrain%2Bhair%2Bcatcher&qid=1677066794&sprefix=stainless%2Bsteel%2Bshower%2Bdrain%2Bhair%2Bcatcher%2Caps%2C64&sr=8-7&th=1
I removed the flat perforated plate and put this one in. I have a Sanicon and Hair is the DEATH WISH for a Sanicon.  The hair wraps around the impeller and eventually shuts or slows it down.
My daughter and GD both have long blonde hair...  I tend to shed a little.  I use this now.  I have to clean it about once a week.  I should ALSO point out that we have wool throw rugs over the tile so you always have fibers.  This is the NUTS for pet hair as well.
Good Luck
 

THERE IS.  Could you define “tripped”?  What did you do to reset it or get it working?  
On SOME older coaches, Monaco used a continuous duty solenoid.  The switch for that (battery switch at the door) was an ON OFF.  You pushed the top and it stayed “pushed in) or visible and the pushed the bottom side and it moved and stayed there.  The continuous ON solenoids always had voltage on the coil to keep the contacts closed…
 
Later ON….Monaco went to a Latching Relay.  Then they used a SPRING loaded switch up front.  Push the top….it turns on or latches in….coil has no voltage.  The switch is spring loaded and pops or moves back to center (off).  Push bottom and it is spring loaded to return to center.  The solenoid unlatches,
You PROBABLY have a bad salesman solenoid.  When there is a high current demand, the contacts are pitted and arc and eventually….get hot enough and NO circut.  Cool down….works for a while,
The easiest fix.  Locate the salesman solenoid.  Probably up front in the bay under the drivers seal.  Have someone cycle or turn on and off the battery switch,  out your hand on it or feel it.  Once you find it….turn off the house switch.  Move one cable to the other side….tighten then up.
NAPA sells a 781144 short cable.  Buy one of them….jumper the contacts and out the NAPA on both terminals and the old cables on each one.
that should do it.  Flickering lights AFTER that mean you have some ballasts going bad and they are sucking up a whole lot of current….replace or rebuild the fixtures with LED strips

This is TYPICAL…..there are two brackets near the bottom of the side rails of the valance that hold it to the wall.  You almost have to open the window and fully push up or retract the shade.  Monaco did not, typically, use the snap on brackets where you gently pried or snapped off the shade housing from the valence.  You will see 2, probably, since it is a short width, screws going through the shades and then into the roof.  Sometimes they were towards the front….other times the rear.
YES….they were put on when they trimmed it out.  I have never figured out what kind of screw gun they used or the bit design…but they come out and you have 2 screws on the bottom, one on each side….and 2 screws in the top.
EDIT….  I used a 6” extension (1/4” drive) and a 1/4” socket and a #2 Square Drive, EH?….bit.  I used a little painters tape to keep them connected.  BUT, the slop also worked to my advantage like a geriatric universal joint…..like my body.  A straight 6” bit in a small screw gun would probably work as well….

George (Grizzly),
Read this post that I did say back.  I BELIEVE that you have the SAME Air Compressor, in the LEFT Rear near the Drive or Tag axle.  Frank MeElroy ( @Frank McElroy ) was my tech support here.  
My friend's NEW TO HIM Dynasty would NOT shut off the Aux Compressor.  He also had some issues with the air pressure gauges....and that morphed into "DO YOU HAVE PROPER AIR TO DRIVE" as some idiot had turned off the alarms.  We have his TEST his tanks and also drain them and do a leak down.  That raised a BIG RED FLAG for Frank.  The REAR tank spit out a bunch (say a few quarts) of water.  That immediately told Frank the problem. He had a BAD AIR COMPRESSOR.  He did NOT have TWO Drain Lines in the rear....like Franks' 2008.  The AUX Compressor had its OWN "Drying System".  OPPS, it failed.  My friend said that the air governor sounded "funny" and he had had 2 or 3  DP's before.  It also never shut off or he didn't think it was.  
Bottom line....he had Josam's in Orlando go over it.  His leveling problems were SYSTEM....and NOT AIR Related.  BUT, his air system was "messed up".  Josam's replaced the compressor with a new one.  I think it was the same type.  You COULD replace (assuming it is bad) with one like Frank's 2008....but you need to understand the circuitry and also add a DRAIN LINE to drain it.  
If you drain your rear tank (there is only one, I'll wager) in the rear on the left side....you MIGHT get water....  If so....then after the compressor is replaced or modified to a conventional one with a reservoir and a drain line.....THEN....time for a specialist to pull some air lines and look at your rear brake cannisters.  You DO NOT want water in your brake lines....
That's about it....
The picture is for the VIAir Shut off switch.  It is an ON @90 and OFF @ 120.  If you find it....then you can easily test it....USUALLY they fail in that the contacts become corroded and it will NOT start.  I SUPPOSE that it could be the other way.... but, it needs to cycle and it should be evident by watching your gauges....
If you air governor is cranky and is making different sounds or not working like it use to....look or have someone work on the compressor.  Just make sure that THEY know how the Monaco system works and that the "Dryer" compressors were unique and then replaced with conventional ones the next year....that's as much as I can help technically...

OK....now that is beginning to make sense.  BUT, to correct a couple of your bullets...
You do NOT need to pull the Refrigerator OUT to see the outlets.  There is a lower compartment panel removable with twist locks and that is where the outlets are.
Your Fridge, if it was OEM, does NOT run off the Generator or Shore power.  It runs OFF of the Inverter....Don't remember what your inverter capacity is...but ALL RESIDENTAIL REFRIGERATORS had either a supplemental 1000 Watt Inverter (in addition to the standard 2000 Watt inverter) or there was a 2,800 Watt Inverter.  The inverter has an Automatic Transfer Switch inside it.  When you have Genny running or Shore plugged in, then the Inverter "sees" the voltage is there....matters NOT whether Shore or Genny.  THEN, (assuming and you probably DO have a Magnum Inverter), you MUST have a "decent functional" house bank.  Maybe will not run much for but a few minutes....but the Magnum HAS to start charging and see that the batteries are "taking a charge".  THEN, the Automatic Transfer Switch inside the Magnum pushes or allows the Genny or Shore Power to go to the various 115 circuits.  That is the Microwave and the outlets and the TV's and YES, a dedicated line for the Res Refer.  BUM BATTERIES....the Magnum ATS will NOT let you have any internal 120 VAC power.  YES...that seems confusing....but it how it works...
The Previous Owner PROBABLY mean that the Alternator is charging the House Bank as well as the Chassis Bank.  As LONG as you have any decent batteries (See above) then the Inverter is providing the 120 VAC to run it.  YES....the Alternator is a 200 A and the Inverter is built to "invert" enough power so that the Res Refer will be fine...
You have an ISSUE with the Inverter.  Probably not MAJOR....as in  "Needs a tech".  The inverter should instantaneously start inverting.  What you MAY have is one or both of the following.
The Inverter has a SETUP Button and you need to go through the various items and get it programmed properly.  If you call Magnum, a support tech will do that for you at NO CHARGE.  Tell him that the Inverter is balky.  Tell him that you want to turn OFF the Search Watts.  He will talk you through doing that...
The OTHER THING that needs to be done....NOW....is a SOFT RESET.  That is easy.  Located the WHITE inverter box in the bay.  unplug Shore and leave Genny OFF.  There is a POWER button on it.  Hold it in for maybe 30 seconds.  That is like rebooting a computer.  Then wait a few minutes....maybe 5 - 10.  Push the Power button.  That will turn ON the Inverter.  Go inside and look at the Magnum Remote.  There should be THREE green LED's on the LEFT side.  If there are NOT....then there MAY be an internal inverter error....and you have to do a HARD RESET...but Magnum will tell you. 
In my case....I had a BAD remote.  The Remote had a short or an intermittent in it.  It was BALKY and sometimes would not come on instantly (you never turn off the INVERTER OR CHARGER)...when it switched from Genny or Shore to "inverting" or running off the batteries.  I replaced mine. Four screws and a phone connector.  WORKS GREAT now....so a Balky Inverter does NEED some troubleshooting....
 You CANNOT run your roof top AC's from the Inverter.  Their power does NOT GO THROUGH IT.  When you need the Roof Tops (they cost less in diesel than the front HVAC to run), you ALWAYS have to start the Genny.  They will RUN....and BINGO....your Batteries are getting dual charged...as you drive....from both the Alternator on the Diesel and the Generator.  You need to understand this....
Assuming you ran the Genny last night and the three heat pumps....yes....that will clean the brushes.  
SO....to sum it up...
Do the Magnum Soft  Reset or ReStart....  Here is a link to read.....only leave it OFF for a few minutes.....then push and turn on the Invert on the WHITE BOX...
https://www.magnum-dimensions.com/soft-reset-instructions-magnum-energy-inverterchargers
Then look at your remote....all should be well.  Plug in to SHORE or start the Genny.  The remote will say "Inverting" when on Battery.  It should INSTANTEOUSLY switch to CHARGING when it senses the voltage (Genny or Shore).  If it is balky call Magnum and they will assist in the setup UP....BTW.....when you do that....there is a SHORE button.  Set the current or amperage to 30 AMPS.  YES....you may be on 50 amps.  BUT, there is a 30 Amp Circuit Breaker in the main AC panel. That is what you set the Inverter for....

Ivan took care of the steps.  MY personal choice is to leave the steps OUT.....when the key is ON, they retract.  THE OTHER WAY....they are in and out every time you open the door....and that motor only has so many cycles in it....but again....some folks love that feature.
Shade.  Do you have TWO "shades" or do you have the folding or accordian pleat curtains that black out or block the sun and the motorized shade is a "mesh visor"?
IF you have TWO shades up there....then you can move the power wires from the one blowing the fuse to the other one.  I have TWO shades....white "window home style" and a green one.  
NOW....it gets COMPLICATED.  I THINK you have individual shades on each window....and IF you do....then WHICH one is failing.  There is a major difference in the circuitry on the drivers vs passenger.  The Drivers side is a simple switching circuit.  The passengers since there is (may be...usually) a switch for the driver to be able to control the passenger, that circuit is complex, of at least to me....and took a lot of noodling to understand. 
You CAN download the prints if you don't have them.  After you test the motor or swap the leads....then the only way is to understand the circuit and start from there.

OK....first....
The Chassis Switch only turns OFF the Battery.  It does NOT carry the actual Starting Current.  Look at your prints.  You need the Blue Seas 6006.  That is the RED one.
https://www.bluesea.com/products/6006/m-Series_Mini_On-Off_Battery_Switch_with__Knob_-_Red
If you go to Amazon, they are there....but they have different options.  in the select box....the top right one.  DO NOT GET (you don't need it as you have NOTHING TO HOOK UP) the Dual Circuit.  That is for the more sophisticated Dyanasties and above.  SO....YES this is the SWITCH.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00445KFZ2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&th=1
Next up.  That is the SAME switch to use for the HOUSE.  Depending on how your MH is configured and such....you may be able to turn OFF the House Batteries and they will be disconnected from the INVERTER.  BUT, some are directly connected and you can't shut them off.....that means that the Inverter is always ON (in Standby...on a Magnum....no matter how many buttons you push.) It is PULLING a parasitic load and will eventually, without the charger on, drain them.  Folks say... I TURN 'EM OFF.  Well if the switch IS controlling the main power to the batteries and the INVERTER....YES.  BUT, if the Inverter is connected (usually through a 300 A Fuse) then, yes, all you are doing is turning off the CHARGER and then the drain continues.  SO...it doesn't matter....they were the SAME when new....they need to be the same...not upgraded unless you are planning on running something like a high powered 2,000 winch or such....
You will NEVER need more than the 300 Amp rating.  BUY THESE....the SINGLE CIRCUIT and replace one or both.
It is THAT SIMPLE....

As the legal eagles say....THAT DEPENDS.  We have a very astute member with a 2007 Dynasty.  He does NOT have meathook hands and is well "able" to put his Pressure Pro TPMS sensors on the inner rears.  The reason....Monaco had special "wheels" with a distinctive cutout or hole up until 2008 or maybe 2009.  My Camelot wheels are the same rating and size and brand as his 2007 Dynasty, but I have the stock (Accurride Standard) holes.  They are way too small to get my hand into.
I opted for the longer Valve Stems that many used here.  They are the Borg Dually type.  They were named after a commercial tire valve distributor ( Mr. Borg) in California who passed away a few years back. There was a recent post about them and info.  His company is still there and folks order them and are pleased.  I have had three tire techs say that they are the nicest valve stems that they have seen. When I install new tires, I have them pull the O-Rings from new stems and put them on....as well as a new Schrader valve.
 
My advice.....get down on your whatever and see if you can unscrew the braided connector from the rear Inners.  Our member did that or else (he mounts his own tires and installs) unscrewed them when he put on a set or popped off the outer. He now says he pulls them off when he comes back in from a trip to keep the battery life longer.
So...YES...we have a person that can, on the same year and model as yours, install and remove a TPMS with great results....
Good Luck...

Tom Wallis' previous post popped up while I was typing.  THAT SOUNDS like something easy to test.  Leave the System in AC.  Then PUSH the OFF button.  Close the Door.  Unplug the Norcold. You NEED to (my layman's approach) let it SIT for a few days or even a month.......to ensure that the Control Board maintains the AC ONLY setting and does not eventually bleed off the STORED setting and go back to DEFAULT. 
NOW....go back and plug it in.  IF it comes on in AC and works....then you have a solution.  OTHERWISE...  MY WAG approach...
Here is my theoretical take....based on my layman's experiences and also dealing with "Momentary Contact" starting....like on the back of an LED TV if the remote isn't handy....you can't.  NOW, having said that, you MIGHT want to contact one of the shops that repair or rebuild or sell their own "BETTER" Norcold Control Boards and see if a "Sneak" set of contacts can be added. 
IF you are someone that wants to "explore and tinker", then look at the attached print.  It APPEARS to have a momentary contract button or switch on the display board.  
NO GUARANTEES OR WARRANTIES ON THE FOLLOWING....just a SWAG.
The Display panel would need to be removed.  You locate the contacts (ON/OFF) on that leg or strip on the board.  You then solder in a lead on either side of the momentary contact switch.  This will become a remote parallel ON OFF switch.  SO....then you have your remote device, using a relay with DRY CONTACTS, supply a MOMENTARY closure.  Thus, the same as physically pushing the button. 
NOW THE DOWNSIDE.  Will the "Display Button" ON/OFF switch work if the DOORS are SHUT?  You will have to experiment. 
How do you KNOW, REMOTELY, that the Refer is running.  So, you MIGHT need some sort of signal (parallel to a component that is ON when running) that sends a pulse or a signal BACK to your device.
YES....it can (might)) probably be DONE.  NO, I don't know how....but just looking at the circuit and doing some "Breadboarding", it might work.
You DO need both an INPUT and OUTPUT.  The input (momentary contact signal from dry contacts)....the output would be a 12 VDC relay that goes to a "OK....I AM RUNNING LIGHT"....assuming the remote device has the capability for both INPUT and OUTPUT to your remote.
AGAIN....this is THEORETICAL.....and your skill and expertise and understanding is the key.....  SO....take is as a way to accomplish something that very few, if any have asked about....and has not, to the best of my recollection, been discussed here or for the past 13 years on the original Monaco'ers site...
Let us know what you do....there are a LOT of curious electronic guru's that would find it fascinating.... 
Norcold LR1200 Wiring Schematic.pdf

For CLARIFICATION….and NOT to contradict FRANK.  There are TWO different BLUE SEAS cutoff switches.  Frank is referring to the BLUE SEAS model that has two LARGE (high current) and two small (control) terminals as well.  These, I believe we’re on the Dynasty and higher.
My Camelot and the lower end do not have the “exotic” PCB that controls the BIG BOY/ BATTERY BOOST solenoid.  We have an Intellitec BIRD or BIRD DIESEL or BIRD DIESEL2 module that is the “brain”.  Our Blue Seas switches only have the TWO high current studs and no additional 2 small terminal control voltage contacts.
The Dual (high current & control voltage) switch used on the Dynasty would work on the Camelots….there is NO WIRES there to use the low current switch.  
BUT…. ON THE DYNASTY (& UP), you must use the FOUR CONTACT SWITCH….otherwise, you charging system will not work.
Keith, glad you are making progress.  As a moderator, the tone and perceived knowledge of the electrical system, was vastly different in your first post, some e hours apart.  Had myself and others been aware of the entire sequence of events that was in the second post, then our responses and efforts would have been different.  Thanks for understanding this and providing the complete story in your first post.
Am assuming that you are OK with the Magnum remote setup.  Howver, many folks that have the Sig/Exec/Dynasty RC6 Big Boy controller have had some issues when their Inverter went into a fault or overload or such mode.  My advice is to still do the hard reset to clean out any “electric ghosts” in the PCB on the inverter.
Second, I know for a fact, as Frank pointed out, that your Big Boy and such will NOT function properly with the 2 Pole cut off switches OFF.  Each switch has a “sensing voltage” set of contacts (the small ones).  If your system works with one or both off, then there has been mods to the wiring.  Monaco specifically used the two sets of terminals, High (studs) and Low (small control terminals), Blue Seas switches on each bank and this is called out in your prints.  Installing the single pole (Studs only) Blue Seas, requires splicing the two control wires together to make the system work properly.
Keep us updated.

do you have the Mono (SP) Block manifold system.  Check there for the toilet outlet, if one.  UNLESS there is a "prefilter" in the solenoid inlet, then it is PROBABLY on the same filter system as the rest of the house.  Other than that....may be time to pull it out and then quickly test (with a hose and a bowl to catch the water, the line.  Obviously TURN OFF the water supply and depressurize....as it may be LIVE and UGLY.  LOL.

Bummer, but you did all the right things, which some have NOT, when going to Lithium.  Please don't take my comment as "talking down"....we have had this issue and folks just popped in Lithiums and went on....
OK....  In your prints and from the Magnum Manual, there is a 400  Amp Fuse.  It LOOKS Square or Rectangular.  The Monaco Prints, which I downloaded are clear and legibile.  but the outlines of the buss connectors and such on the main board are hard to follow on the prints. I THINK that the fuse would be on the main board....  About mid way into the prints there is DR3 3801004 (Schematic High Current Low Voltage).  That is the block outline.  From THAT drawing, it LOOKS like your fuse may be on the UNSWITCHED side of the Disconnect switch.  But there are subsequent drawing for different banks and also for multiple inverters (these prints were for Dynasty and all higher models).  SO, my advice....look at the one I found first and then start chasing cables.  Whether it is one the Switched side or a HOT direct connection, you need to find it and see if it is OK. 
Past that, you have, I think, reached the same conclusion.  The Inverter is somehow disconnected from the Battery Bank and when you actually Jumper the connections....the Chassis Battery is what the Inverter is seeing and all is well.  NEVER trust a Monaco Cable. The advice of the experts is to do a Voltage Measurement across each connection....that means you have to use a Jumper to get back to the "back" sometimes.  If you measure the terminal (batter connector) using the VOLT setting UNDER LOAD, then you can see the drop.....there should be barely 0.03 (3 hundredths) drop....I suspect....and that is pure GUT feel, that you have a bad battery cable terminal.  By Battery Cable, I mean any 4/0 or 2/0 high current cable from the Battery Bank to ALL the downstream connections until it gets to the inverter.
ONE REALLY OFF THE WALL comment.  IF you have a BAD Battery GROUND from the House to the Chassis Stud, then that could be the issue.  Easy enough to test or almost as easy to FIX.  If you run your Jumper from the House Ground to the Chassis Ground....and the Inverter works....then do to the HOUSE GROUND Stud....or follow it.  I had a LOW voltage Low current draw up front that would not crank the genny.  It was the House Ground Stud connection.  I loosened and cleaned and such.  BINGO....no issues in over 10 years.  I found that if I Firmly SHUT the house battery tray it would not crank.  BUT, if I moved it and then PUSHED on it, it worked.  I measured the resistance between a GOOD ground (on the Chassis) and the House Ground or negative.  I had a few ohms.  BUT, the same measurement on the Chassis....was ZERO.  I got it to stabilize....and fixed it when I got home.
SO....never rule out a Ground issue....we have advised folks to clean and reestablish the GROUND and solved a LOT of problems.  Folks have also had perfectly GOOD looking crimped terminals....no corrossion, but an internal issue....they cut off the end....crimped a new one on....and never an issue.  Very frustrating and very intermittent....wiggle and such and check...
Good Luck. 

I suspect that you have the same AH (450 - Maybe the "D" version) system that I do, but with Monaco you never know.  I DO know a few things for certain.
There are 4 Pumps in my system.
Pump 1 is a “ZONE” pump.  That is for Interior Heating. Zones 1 & 5 are supplied by this pump.  The “fan and thermostat” connections on the print show where they are located.  Thus, you can have a “interior” pump on and it is only supplying ONE zone….which means that the Thermostat is calling for heat there.
Pump 2 is also a “Zone” pump.  That is for interior heating, which is also roughly defined as a service bay.  Zones 2; 3; & 4 are on this pump
Pump 3 is the stir or recirculation pump.  It circulates the water from the top of the boiler to the bottom.  It is much smaller.  After reading the manual (attached), I have a little better understanding….which I “HEDGED” and said we have experts.  If you look at the flow chart in the first few pages, it describes the logic.  From what I READ, yes, the stir pump is circulating from either Diesel or Electric.  I also “conclude” (DANGEROUS” that it may run when the engine is heating.  Need to research more….but the 116 page manual is thorough.
The ENGINE coolant heating of the boiler is “automatic”….or that is the gist of my reading and knowledge.  There MUST be a bypass system in the pump or the circuit.  When you start to deprive, it takes typically 20 -30 minutes for the 195 DF water to heat the boiler.  There is also a 215 DF “high limit” switch, so, as long as you don’t “superheat” your coolant, you are OK.  I DID one caution….and it may be in the manual….but it sounds like common sense to me.  NEVER run the engine with the Preheat Pump on.  There is a small statement that says do NOT run the Preheat Pump when the engine is running…..and one poster on another site was emphatic that that WA$ a bad idea $$!.
That is an "Auto" thing.  So when the Diesel or Electric is ON the special "boiler" fluid must be circulated.  You of course know that this is a Potable solution and it has all sorts of special properties.  The original AH actually used Propylene Glycol and the newer ones use the potable one for safety
If you look at my schematic, When it is marked "FAN" that also brings on the Proper Pump that circulates the heat exchanger fluid to that particular zone or loop.  Your system is slightly different.  It MAY or MAY not be wired like the print.  SO....here goes.....
Fan 1 is for the Rear and Front Bedroom registers or heat exchangers.  Since I do NOT have the middle AC unit with a Furnace setting, my Bathroom Heater is tied into that circuit.
Fan 2 in yours (3 AC unit) will run the bathroom (2 speed blower) heater. Don't bet on it....but check it out....this IS Monaco.  LOL
Fan 3 is NOT USED.  This is listed in the manual or maybe in the brochure as “additional heating radiator”.  Can’t find it, but mine is configured that way.
Fan 4 is for the Bay Heat exchanger.  In some EARLIER models, at least in the Dynasty, you have to have the Bedroom system running.  I BELIEVE, from the prints, that the bay or service heat exchanger is free standing.  I do know from some cooler camping that the bay stays toasty.....but as folks have recommended, you really, in freezing temps, need to monitor it with a battery powered unit....and FRESH batteries.  You MAY have the Capillary Tube thermostat.....but in 2009, I KNOW that they cheated and just mounted (hidden almost) a snap disk on the floor or wall.  The hanging snap disk is for the Service or the Electric toaster.  You probably know that these fail due to a factory "Fix" that was a FIASCO.  There is a write in the files on how to fix the heater properly.  BUT, if you have the AH, then, it will automatically come on as the Thermostat is controlling it.  NOW, that assumes that you have a source of heat, either electric or diesel
Fran 5 is for the Front heat exchangers.
NOTE....there appears to be 2 check valves…one for pump 1 & one for pump 2,   Sometimes when a zone is running (fan on) and it is cold, then a gently to "Firm" tap is needed on the check valves as they  will stick.  THAT is why it is good to always run the system periodically.... Memory…may be wrong.  I THOUGHT that some of AH units had the check valves inside the plastic housing, therefore due caution was needed to tap or get it free.  LOOK AT THE MANUAL FOR A SPECIFIC SYSTEM.  Mine is here for reference with this comment…
A friend DID have a broken Engine Recirculation pump on his way to the ABQ festival.  That was in 2013 and added around $250 to his “PM bill”.  He had to stop and do some exploratory surgery and connect the in and out hoses to continue to drive…GREEN COOLANT everywhere.
NOW....some more information.  There is only ONE thermostat in my system.  It is ON @ 155 & OFF @ 180 DF. It will control BOTH the Diesel and the Electric.  SO, if heating is needed to get the boiler up to Temp, then when the Thermostat calls for heat... BOTH COME ON.  In the earlier years on the Dynasty (maybe on the crossover years when the Camelots and Windsors were the same), there MAY have been dual thermostats.  The differential was around 15 DF and the Electric came on.  If it could not satisfy demand, then the diesel kicked in.  I BELIEVE that all the AH units now only have ONE....but that is memory from talking to AH tech.  
 
OK….some notes and I had done this before.  The diesel burner puts out 56K BTU/HR.  The 1650 watt electric is around 5,600….or 10% of the capacity of the diesel….so when my GD started taking a shower and was 3rd in line, she screamed…TURN ON THE DIESEL….yes at 10 years old….she knew that.  Second, the rated capacity of the boiler is 1.5 GPM and the normal AquaTech/Remco RV55 is 5.5 GPM.  Full flow showers will eat into an electric supplied boiler heater….
You can download here or on the AH site….just pull your model number.  Easy to find.
https://www.aquahot.com/files/service_manual/450-DE2 Service Manual Rev C.pdf
NOW to your comments and maybe questions about the overall system and the thermostats and the HP.
I use the HP mostly.  However, they do loose capacity. I have been "TOLD" by Dometic and Monaco (the OLD tech support) that the Furnace will come on as "AUX" heat if the HP are not keeping up.  Obviously, they need the Diesel ON.  I was also told that you could when the AUX is on.  I have NEVER seen that....so I don't understand it.  BUT, if it is cool and the HP are running all the time....I just switch to Furnace. I will switch back in the morning when we wake up as usually the HP will work well there. How you use it and whether or not your "Thermostat" calls for AUX is strictly a decision based on comfort and such.
I DO know that the front HVAC is PUNY or undersized in cold, especially windy days.  I learned that on bringing the Camelot home from Florida to NC on a day it was 20 odd DF when we hit SC.  I knew VERY LITTLE.  Have learned some things since then.  SO....your method of keeping the front warm might work for you. BUT, it would NOT work for me that day as the ambient was below the practical setting of the HP.
This is what I do and I learned it from several members who had experimented.  Turn the HVAC to MAX AC.  Turn the temperature control to MAX HEAT.  There is a thermostat or a mode that will keep the compressor from coming on.  You also ELIMINATE all the incoming FRIGID AIR.  Any OTHER setting will  open the damper and you defeat the or overpower the Coolant HVAC power.  NOW, that does INCREASE the risk of moisture.  BUT, I find it works well.
I actually had to turn ON the Diesel burner and the Front Thermostat on that Friday.  That kept it comfortable. If you also leave the rear bedroom sliding door open, you get a LOT of heat from the engine that will migrate up front.  Turning the rear AC to Fan LOW will keep it circulating.  You might try that.....
The next is to FIX ALL THE AIR LEAKS.  Frank McElroy spent a great deal of time isolating and fixing all the cracks and crannies and poor assembly "joints" in his 2008 Dynasty. I don't do that much cool weather travel or camping.  SO, I have not gone through and done this.  I can't remember, but MAYBE turned on all his ceiling fans and was exhausting air and used his HAND to isolate WHERE the cold air was coming from.  He then fixed each one and finally got the front cap sealed.  He might chime in to correct and/or expand on what he did, but he said it make a great impact on traveling comfort.
That's about it.  If I am wrong, I know that the real experts will correct.  But that is the macro view with a little low level advice.
 
 
Aquahot and thermostats.pdf

YES, we need to KNOW what is going on.  Hydraulic, which is what I suspect.  However, there are SOME common terms and we might also being talking or understanding different ones.
The Air (Valid) system will creak and moan and if left in the Auto, it will relevel itself.  That is how it is designed.  I ran mine for 3 years and did not even know that the AUX compressor was not working....the ON/OFF switch was corroded.  I put in a new switch.  WHAT's that NOISE....at 3:00 am one morning.  We decided it was not NOT a feature the we needed or wanted to use.  I actually started to level myself to get the MH lower so that there was not as much "Space" between the step and the ground.  SO, I start at the low end (AIR) and pump up each corner and get it leveled at the lowest point.  BUT, I also abandoned the Auto Level and leave it in Manual  and I don't get the "TIME TO SHIFT" annoyance.  We do NOT lose air in the LEVELING system.  The Main air....UPSTREAM...which is part of the brake system bleeds down.  I have it leak tested.  That is NOT a major issue.  If you read the DOT spec it is something like 2 PSI per minute.  Mine is in the ONE PSI per HOUR range.  
BUT, the level is maintained.  I can turn the system on....the indicator shows it good.  I just have to PUT in the Manual Mode and then shut it down....or tell it to go to sleep and not bother me.  If I had to add a larger pump, then I would want to know WHY I had such a big leak and address the cause and not overpower the pump...
NOW....switching to the Hydraulic.  IF there is a major releveling and the MH is NOT maintaining a good level, then the system (sensors and pump and leaks) need to be addressed.  BUT, if the issue is a minor...."Hey....we need to move a smidge because someone walked", then before I did any major trouble shooting....I would run a test.
Put it in MANUAL and turn it off.  Then maybe ONCE a day, look at the control panel and see if the MH has settled.  OR use a level. It may be an overactive condition that is an annoyance.  BUT, if it shifts and needs to be tweaked, then start the process to determine WHAT is going on....
Loose sensor? Leaking? Faulty controller? Bad valve?  The list goes on....
The request for "Reprogramming" might be interpreted as "how to I keep it out of AUTO and having it keep tweaking in minute manner when there ain't nothing wrong?".  If that is the case....follow the above....

You need to define "ELECTRIC".  
If your lights are going out, that is a 12 VDC system.  If your Microwave and the outlets go out....that is the 120 VAC system.
From your comment about the Salesman's switch, it WOULD appear that you are losing 12 VDC power to the "House".
That will kill all the interior lighting (it is ALL 12 VDC).  That will also kill the AC units as the Salesman's switch cuts off the 12 VDC to the thermostat.  
If the Solenoid is bad, then it needs to be bypassed.  Two WAYS of doing.  You have to disconnect the battery NEGATIVE (House Bank) to safely do that. 
One is to see if you have enough slack in the two large cables to move one to the other side of the solenoid 
The other is to put a JUMPER over the solenoid BIG posts or cables.  There is a Jumper on NAPA part that we use for that.
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/MPB781144
If you use one that is longer, you get a voltage drop and that is bad.  HOWEVER....for a short period, folks have bought some at Walmart.  PROBLEM....they are much longer.
This is a picture from several topics on this.  I don't know EXACTLY how your Solenoid looks.  .  

The above TOPIC has a good discussion.
NOW....ONE WAY to identify the Solenoid is to look in the Electric Bay....don't know if yours if front or rear....MAYBE FRONT.
Have someone TURN ON and then OFF the salesman's switch.  Stay up there and put your hand on what you THINK is it.  If it is WORKING.....it will click or you will feel it work.  ODDS ARE....the contacts are internally burned up.  SO, it keeps shorting out.  BUT, if the coil is working, it will go CLUNK or you feel it.  Once you have identified that....then follow the recommendation.

Woody,
the technical name for this is a capillary tube line voltage thermostat.  Here is a quick link to the manual.
https://manualsbrain.com/en/manuals/813792/
These are heavy duty controls that are used in a variety of industrial and commercial applications,  The Dynasty’s and higher use the more expensive controls and the Camelots and down use a cheap snap disk….although my prints call for the Capillary….and Monaco got cheap….
First question….have you thoroughly trouble shot it.  All it does is CLOSE when the ambient or wherever the temperature probe is located.  This one is 0 - 50 deg and OPENS (turns off) on temperature rise.  So if the temp drops below the set point….typically 35 - 40 deg, the mechanical contacts close.  All that does is like a light switch.  The AH temp or Thermostat contacts are attached to it.  You test it by using a cup of water with some ice in it.  The calibration is factory set.
Some folks will have to jump in here, but I have a “Gee someone told me that” factoid.  One some Dynasty, I THINK you had to have the bedroom furnace in the ON mode.  You need to check that out.  One way to test would be to put the probe into melting ice water cup and use a VOM.  This unit does not have any “electrical or power needs”.
If it is defective, then you need a POOL or Freeze Protection Capillary Thermostat. Here is one on Amazon.
Here is a Intermatic replacement that is on Amazon…..there are others…..
INTERMATIC INC 178T24 THERMOSTAT FOR FP1102T/PF1103T
white Rogers or Robert Shaw or Johnson controls makes the nicer, more reliable units.  The Intermatic is more of a common garden variety.  This one gets good ratings.  You can research now and find a comparable part number on their websites.  Grainger sells these as they are commonly used.  Just need to specify the range and ON ON TEMPERATURE RISE.  Don’t get anything that goes above 75 deg….stay in the zero to 50/60 range….
good luck and make sure you understand how and when it will work…if you did that….great, but not understanding when it comes one and what other conditions are needed is common.
if you haven’t read the manual, check it out. I THINK the ones that required a bedroom zone to be on had a warning in the discussion.