Leveling systems

[Donflem]

Is there a way to recalibrate my hydraulic system the automatic mode is always off a lot and in manual I have to re-level every couple days? I seem to have a lot of coach movement when walking around what am I missing? ( getting old sucks)

Thanks in advance Don

2007 Dynasty 

[Tom Cherry]

The way, if you have the VALID Power Gear System....

You have a Manual MODE.  You can either have the AUTO (Default) mode level or use the Manual.  Some of us do it various ways.  I always DROP my air down....so the bags are deflated as much as possible.  Then, I use the Manual Mode.  I level myself.  SOME folks use the Auto Level.  Doesn't matter how you get there....as long as it is level.

THEN, for those that don't want the constant relevelling....we switch to MANUAL and turn OFF the system.  That eliminates the AUTO and the AUX pump doesn't run.  NOW if you have a real LEAK (and some think they have) in the bag or the air line or the fitting....you MAY get a droopy corner.  In that case, you need to isolate the leak and fix it (or have it fixed).  

BUT, I never lose my level.  My "AIR" will drain down.....but it takes almost a week to get to zero.....but the MH stays level.

SO....assuming you do NOT get unlevel or DROOPY, then use the Manual Mode...

Look at your manual around page 255.  If you have the HWH, there is a MANUAL setting.  If you want to level in the auto mode....do that.  then switch to manual.  Then turn OFF the system.  That way, it is NOT trying to compensate.

That is also the way that the Valid works as well.  There is no "REPROGRAMMING".  You just switch to MANUAL....and then kill the system.  Techically, if you turned it off, it might work as well.  BUT, putting it in MANUAL and then turn it OFF works.  NOW, remember, if you turn ON the KEY or put it in ACC, the Leveling system powers up and it will be in the AUTO mode.  Changing that would be a task.

BUT, MANUAL and then turn it off....that will work.  I know it does in the VALID and looking at the HWH, that should work also..

[jacwjames]

I don't have auto leveling but at one time one of my jacks was bleeding down a little.  On my hyd pump I have 3 T handles.  I loosened each of these up and then closed them tight and that solved my problem.  These are the same T handles that you use for emergency retract.

[Doug and Nicki]

I assume your coach is air leveled on the air bags rather than having cylinders that touch the ground. It is fairly common to have air leaks that allow the air bags to deflate. Once your air tanks lose enough air, things will sag a bit. You have an auxiliary compressor that is supposed to keep the tanks full, but if it works, it is a noisy critter that cycles frequently. You need to have a truck chassis shop inspect for air leaks and get those corrected first. I have the same problem with my leveling system and recently had two leaks corrected, which helped a lot. The coach moving around when you walk is normal, since you are leveled on air.

Some have removed the old auxiliary air compressor and installed something new that is quieter and works better. I have not done that at this stage.

[waterskier_1]

The OP states he has a Hydraulic system.  I hope he will confirm since solutions for Air leveling are not germaine.  

There appears to be two questions asked.  First,  how to recalibrate.  Need to know the system you have (i.e., HWH, Power Gear, etc. ).  The "brain" is usually located on the driver's side, first bay aft of the fuel tank, on the ceiling.  You mat have to remove the ceiling panel to access it.  From there, follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. 

Second, having to relevel indicates the Hydraulic fluid in the cylinder is leaking (assuming the jack is not sinking into the ground). This leak could be internal or external. Since you have not indicated there is a puddle of Hydraulic fluid under the coach, it likely is internal.  This could be leaky seals or a check valve that is allowing the fluid to escape back this the reservoir.  TBD to determine if it is alway the same jack or all are effected. 

  -Rick N 

[Ivan K]

Regardless whether you have jacks or air leveling, there's got to be a level sensor that may be off, IF as I understand, the autoleveling system is off from the get-go. I had to adjust mine also once. Whatever happens over time, after autoleveling is done, is a secondary issue. Are we talking about jacks or air?

[Tom Cherry]

21 minutes ago, Ivan K said:

Regardless whether you have jacks or air leveling, there's got to be a level sensor that may be off, IF as I understand, the autoleveling system is off from the get-go. I had to adjust mine also once. Whatever happens over time, after autoleveling is done, is a secondary issue. Are we talking about jacks or air?

YES, we need to KNOW what is going on.  Hydraulic, which is what I suspect.  However, there are SOME common terms and we might also being talking or understanding different ones.

The Air (Valid) system will creak and moan and if left in the Auto, it will relevel itself.  That is how it is designed.  I ran mine for 3 years and did not even know that the AUX compressor was not working....the ON/OFF switch was corroded.  I put in a new switch.  WHAT's that NOISE....at 3:00 am one morning.  We decided it was not NOT a feature the we needed or wanted to use.  I actually started to level myself to get the MH lower so that there was not as much "Space" between the step and the ground.  SO, I start at the low end (AIR) and pump up each corner and get it leveled at the lowest point.  BUT, I also abandoned the Auto Level and leave it in Manual  and I don't get the "TIME TO SHIFT" annoyance.  We do NOT lose air in the LEVELING system.  The Main air....UPSTREAM...which is part of the brake system bleeds down.  I have it leak tested.  That is NOT a major issue.  If you read the DOT spec it is something like 2 PSI per minute.  Mine is in the ONE PSI per HOUR range.  

BUT, the level is maintained.  I can turn the system on....the indicator shows it good.  I just have to PUT in the Manual Mode and then shut it down....or tell it to go to sleep and not bother me.  If I had to add a larger pump, then I would want to know WHY I had such a big leak and address the cause and not overpower the pump...

NOW....switching to the Hydraulic.  IF there is a major releveling and the MH is NOT maintaining a good level, then the system (sensors and pump and leaks) need to be addressed.  BUT, if the issue is a minor...."Hey....we need to move a smidge because someone walked", then before I did any major trouble shooting....I would run a test.

Put it in MANUAL and turn it off.  Then maybe ONCE a day, look at the control panel and see if the MH has settled.  OR use a level. It may be an overactive condition that is an annoyance.  BUT, if it shifts and needs to be tweaked, then start the process to determine WHAT is going on....

Loose sensor? Leaking? Faulty controller? Bad valve?  The list goes on....

The request for "Reprogramming" might be interpreted as "how to I keep it out of AUTO and having it keep tweaking in minute manner when there ain't nothing wrong?".  If that is the case....follow the above....

[Donflem]

5 hours ago, Donflem said:

Is there a way to recalibrate my hydraulic system the automatic mode is always off a lot and in manual I have to re-level every couple days? I seem to have a lot of coach movement when walking around what am I missing? ( getting old sucks)

Thanks in advance Don

2007 Dynasty 

Thanks for all the info. I’m having the trouble with my hydraulic level. I’m pretty sure I got a couple air leaks I need to get fixed when I use my air level it only last a couple days tops it’s my Hydraulic that I have to re-level when I’m in manual mode I don’t see any puddles under the motorhome so I guess I should check for bad seals in the hydraulic system. I Will start with the level sensor because when I show level with a Hydraulic system my bathroom door will open or close on its own so I tweak it a little bit until my door stays open. Does anyone know where the sensor is for the leveling system I think I’ll start there. I’m sorry if I’m all over the place in my response had a family emergency today so I’m kind of scatterbrain thanks guys for all the help. By the way the auxiliary air pump has never work the original owner put it bypass switch on it he said it was way too annoying so he never uses it. I have read and some of your statements that the pump is mounted up by the axles I will have to get around to checking that also. 

Don

[Tom Cherry]

8 minutes ago, Donflem said:

Thanks for all the info. I’m having the trouble with my hydraulic level. I’m pretty sure I got a couple air leaks I need to get fixed when I use my air level it only last a couple days tops it’s my Hydraulic that I have to re-level when I’m in manual mode I don’t see any puddles under the motorhome so I guess I should check for bad seals in the hydraulic system. I Will start with the level sensor because when I show level with a Hydraulic system my bathroom door will open or close on its own so I tweak it a little bit until my door stays open. Does anyone know where the sensor is for the leveling system I think I’ll start there. I’m sorry if I’m all over the place in my response had a family emergency today so I’m kind of scatterbrain thanks guys for all the help. By the way the auxiliary air pump has never work the original owner put it bypass switch on it he said it was way too annoying so he never uses it. I have read and some of your statements that the pump is mounted up by the axles I will have to get around to checking that also. 

Don

Do some research on the AUX pump.  Your 2007 MAY have a “serviceable” dryer on the pump.  If that went bad, as it has, then all sorts of ugly things, including dreaded moisture or water in the rear brakes can happen.

My best advice, for the top PRIORITY, is this.  Drain the front tanks per the procedure in the manual.  Should be NO water coming out.  Then look at the rear, probably on the left or road side,  if you see only ONE drain valve, you “most likely” have the serviceable dryer AUX pump.  Drain that line.  Hopefully there is NO MOISTURE.  A friend had this and he got out anywhere from a couple of quarts up to a few gallons. Hard to estimate when the water is coming out at almost 100 PSI.

if you have water….then a competent repair shop needs to be consulted.  One that can pull some fitting and inspect the rear canisters and such for water intrusion. He was lucky.  He went to Josams and they knew exactly how to check the brakes and fix his leveling problems as well as replace the pump.  The pump is a special pump. In subsequent years, they went with a lower tank or bleed or drain type of pump.  

From your description, I kinda think that you need to take it one step at a time.  FIRST.  Address the air system and hope that you don’t have a moisture problem from the bypassed pump.  My friend’s ran all the time and the air Governor would not shut on and off properly 

Next.  I would only use the air leveling.  Manually level it.  My bathroom door is a good “indicator”, but it sometimes is perfect….other times not.  I don’t consider it closing slowly a big deal.  I have a limited travel on my air bags as I have a sway bars that reduce it from the normal shock travel limitations.  If the MH doesn’t LEAN or show a major corner drop, then you know that the leveling system is working. 

So, check the level using a level or the indicators.  If it “feels” level and you are still level….leave it alone.  After a week, I have NO air pressure, but am still level.

That is, to me, the methodical way to begin.  If the level or a corner starts to sag, then start there.  

Next would be to do the same using the Hydraulic system.  Again, use the manual mode for each.  I personally don’t like the sensitivity of the “auto mode” as just walking can jiggle it.  Others have reached the same conclusion. 

As long as the MH stays level and the bathroom door doesn’t slam shut and the “visual” on your HWH doesn’t move much, then make the call.

It is a good idea to know the magnitude of the problem and the circumstances and the potential issues before one starts messing or adjusting or tightening sensors or such.  My friend’s 2007 Dynasty had had a new controller (Valid) installed.  But the tech never did it correctly and Josams had to spend almost 30 minutes resetting it.  Doing a system reboot or checking the pigtails on your HWH might be an option…

Just my thoughts…..especially since you commented on the AUX issue with the MH.  You may be alright….but check!
 

 

 

 

[Donflem]

Thank you Tom. I will check the air tanks in the morning.

Don

[GypsyJo]

On 11/15/2022 at 12:37 PM, Tom Cherry said:

YES, we need to KNOW what is going on.  Hydraulic, which is what I suspect.  However, there are SOME common terms and we might also being talking or understanding different ones.

The Air (Valid) system will creak and moan and if left in the Auto, it will relevel itself.  That is how it is designed.  I ran mine for 3 years and did not even know that the AUX compressor was not working....the ON/OFF switch was corroded.  I put in a new switch.  WHAT's that NOISE....at 3:00 am one morning.  We decided it was not NOT a feature the we needed or wanted to use.  I actually started to level myself to get the MH lower so that there was not as much "Space" between the step and the ground.  SO, I start at the low end (AIR) and pump up each corner and get it leveled at the lowest point.  BUT, I also abandoned the Auto Level and leave it in Manual  and I don't get the "TIME TO SHIFT" annoyance.  We do NOT lose air in the LEVELING system.  The Main air....UPSTREAM...which is part of the brake system bleeds down.  I have it leak tested.  That is NOT a major issue.  If you read the DOT spec it is something like 2 PSI per minute.  Mine is in the ONE PSI per HOUR range.  

BUT, the level is maintained.  I can turn the system on....the indicator shows it good.  I just have to PUT in the Manual Mode and then shut it down....or tell it to go to sleep and not bother me.  If I had to add a larger pump, then I would want to know WHY I had such a big leak and address the cause and not overpower the pump...

NOW....switching to the Hydraulic.  IF there is a major releveling and the MH is NOT maintaining a good level, then the system (sensors and pump and leaks) need to be addressed.  BUT, if the issue is a minor...."Hey....we need to move a smidge because someone walked", then before I did any major trouble shooting....I would run a test.

Put it in MANUAL and turn it off.  Then maybe ONCE a day, look at the control panel and see if the MH has settled.  OR use a level. It may be an overactive condition that is an annoyance.  BUT, if it shifts and needs to be tweaked, then start the process to determine WHAT is going on....

Loose sensor? Leaking? Faulty controller? Bad valve?  The list goes on....

The request for "Reprogramming" might be interpreted as "how to I keep it out of AUTO and having it keep tweaking in minute manner when there ain't nothing wrong?".  If that is the case....follow the above....

Am I understanding you correctly?  
You are lowering it to the lowest level and then raising where needed to level? Or are you dumping air completely then manual leveling. Although this could be the same thing. 
i ask because my new location is extremely sloped and auto level isn’t an option but my steps are still really ally high from the ground. 

[Steven P]

My Dip only has hydraulic leveling and it's by Power Gear.  Mine has a recalibrate process.  Manually get the coach level using a carpenter's level and press a series of buttons to reset the calibration.  I found out after it tried to level automatically and picked the passenger side off the ground.  On a level spot...

I've manually leveled since that event, but did recalibrate.