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powersltc
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Ron P

2004 Monaco Executive. 

I am having water pump problems.   When I am hooked up to City water everything works fine. 

 

My water pump lights up,  however it is not pumping water.   Don't know if it froze, or what. 

 

Any ideas/suggestions?

 

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Does it make a noise as if it's trying to pump?  Your strainer could be clogged or a valve off.  Can you post some pics of the pipes and valves?

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1 hour ago, powersltc said:

Ron P

2004 Monaco Executive. 

I am having water pump problems.   When I am hooked up to City water everything works fine. 

 

My water pump lights up,  however it is not pumping water.   Don't know if it froze, or what. 

 

Any ideas/suggestions?

 

Are you sure you have water in the holding tank?  On city water it is pressurized and on my coach you have to turn a valve to fill the fresh water tank.  Just a thought.

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2 hours ago, Gary 05 AMB DST said:

Has it lost its prime?

 

Gary 05 AMB DST

It doesn't do anything. 

2 hours ago, Gary 05 AMB DST said:

Has it lost its prime?

 

Gary 05 AMB DST

Don't know.   It does nothing.   No noise. 

46 minutes ago, Ray Davis said:

 As stated earlier you should be able to hear it if the pump is trying.  Do you hear it?  If not do like Richard said, run 12v directly to the pump and see if runs then.

I keep some coils of long wires for such occasions.

Thanks

Appreciate the help.   Haven't try anything yet.

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2 hours ago, Ray Davis said:

 As stated earlier you should be able to hear it if the pump is trying.  Do you hear it?  If not do like Richard said, run 12v directly to the pump and see if runs then.

I keep some coils of long wires for such occasions.

A battery for power tools works great for the trouble shooting with a short wire or jumper.  With adequate voltage of course.

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Ronald, since you're not getting power to the pump, (i.e. nothing, no noise no anything) it's most likely a blown fuse. The fuse is located in the service bay with the pump. Below is a listing of fuses and their locations which should help......Dennis

 

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My original Aqua Jet II just suddenly gave up the ghost (less than a week ago) after working perfectly for years, including all through latest So Texas freeze where we disconnected from city water and used the tank exclusively during the freeze.  I verified power at the pump and concluded pump just went bad.  Installed a new SureFlo (4 GPM, 10A vs original 5.3 GPM 10A) from what I could find on the road while driving from Tx to GA as it was at the first potty stop that we had no water 😟, and was planning some overnights just parking on the way.  The SureFlo has different pressure specs for by-pass and internally routes water from outlet back to the input side (supposedly accumulator not needed but for simplicity I kept it in the system. I may want/need another check valve after I see how well this design works in low city water pressure situations with Auto Fill enabled, but at least I have water again.) Runs a little quieter and even though the GPM is stated as lower, it seems to be adequate in the few days of use so far. The 10A max draw matched the original pump.

So I would verify power at the pump first.  Pumps do die and shouldn't blow fuses.  There may be a better pump out there but I was on the road needing water....

FWIW

 

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3 hours ago, amphi_sc said:

My original Aqua Jet II just suddenly gave up the ghost (less than a week ago) after working perfectly for years, including all through latest So Texas freeze where we disconnected from city water and used the tank exclusively during the freeze.  I verified power at the pump and concluded pump just went bad.  Installed a new SureFlo (4 GPM, 10A vs original 5.3 GPM 10A) from what I could find on the road while driving from Tx to GA as it was at the first potty stop that we had no water 😟, and was planning some overnights just parking on the way.  The SureFlo has different pressure specs for by-pass and internally routes water from outlet back to the input side (supposedly accumulator not needed but for simplicity I kept it in the system. I may want/need another check valve after I see how well this design works in low city water pressure situations with Auto Fill enabled, but at least I have water again.) Runs a little quieter and even though the GPM is stated as lower, it seems to be adequate in the few days of use so far. The 10A max draw matched the original pump.

So I would verify power at the pump first.  Pumps do die and shouldn't blow fuses.  There may be a better pump out there but I was on the road needing water....

FWIW

 

Thanks.   Much Appreciated. 

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4 hours ago, amphi_sc said:

So I would verify power at the pump first.  Pumps do die and shouldn't blow fuses.  There may be a better pump out there but I was on the road needing water....

Haven't heard anything from the OP as to whether he has tested the pump itself with 12 VDC power to make sure it runs.

Also, I always carry a spare Aqua-Jet water pump. When we travel, we seldom use campgrounds or RV Parks on the way to our final destination. So being without water is not an option. It is far cheaper to carry a spare pump than to pay for a nights stay just to have shore water supply.

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On 3/7/2021 at 7:55 AM, Dr4Film said:

Haven't heard anything from the OP as to whether he has tested the pump itself with 12 VDC power to make sure it runs.

Also, I always carry a spare Aqua-Jet water pump. When we travel, we seldom use campgrounds or RV Parks on the way to our final destination. So being without water is not an option. It is far cheaper to carry a spare pump than to pay for a nights stay just to have shore water supply.

I ordered a new pump and a 10 amp latching controller.  

Problem now is, I have lost power to source that causes green light in the kitchen when water pump button is pressed.   No power to latching controller. 

When I checked the pump, it did run.

Decided to upgrade,  but don't know where the breaker. fuse, that controls the system. 

 

 

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31 minutes ago, powersltc said:

I ordered a new pump and a 10 amp latching controller.  

Problem now is, I have lost power to source that causes green light in the kitchen when water pump button is pressed.   No power to latching controller. 

When I checked the pump, it did run.

Decided to upgrade,  but don't know where the breaker. fuse, that controls the system. 

 

 

You need to look at the circuit. ODDS ARE....you have three (or maybe 4) pump switches. Each time you press one of the switches, assuming they are momentary contact, you cycle ON or OFF the Controller. The Controller provides Power to the Pump.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.rvpartscenter.com%2Fshop-by-categories%2Flist2%2Felectrical-12-volt%2Fac-to-dc-1%2Frv-power-converters-3%2Fintellitec-water-pump-controller-00-00145-100-detail&psig=AOvVaw0GszDUqPJvrbeNnm2_2DAp&ust=1615329323029000&source=images&cd=vfe&ved=0CAIQjRxqFwoTCIipg-bgoe8CFQAAAAAdAAAAABAD

The above shows the schematic for the pump. The ON lights will be tied in parallel to the Pump.  There will be one line that runs to all lights. You will have a ground for the other side.

When you depress or push a Momentary Contact Switch....then the Controller switches functions. if ON...it goes OFF or Vice Versa. Then if the PUMP is ON....the indicator light wire has power and must have a ground.  ODDS ARE...you have four wires on each location. Two for the PUMP ON/OFF and they go to the switch. TWO for the Indicator light....Signal (Pump is ON) and Ground.

Find the MAIN fuse for the Pump Controller. THAT is what you have blown....  Fix it or find out WHERE there is a short or issue.  

DO NOT put a FUSE on the pump.  AquaJet supplies one. IT IS NOT NEEDED and will fail at the worst time. the FUSED Supply to the Pump Controller protects the circuit.

GOOD LUCK...

You have an incoming line to the 

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