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Great Price for Blue Seas ML-ACR System with Manual Control


Dr4Film

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Blue Sea products are the way to go, great products, great service and support.

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18 hours ago, Dr4Film said:

I just ordered a Blue Seas ML-ACR with manual Control from Amazon which currently has it for $140. They have been running in the $170 range.

If you been on the fence or just procrastinating like I have, now is the time to pick one up.

https://tinyurl.com/2725yaec

Rookie RV owner 07 Dynasty. So can you tell me why I would need this. I though my system already charged and maintained the house and chassis batteries. Thanks  

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1 hour ago, TOBYLB4 said:

Rookie RV owner 07 Dynasty. So can you tell me why I would need this. I though my system already charged and maintained the house and chassis batteries. Thanks  

Gary,

I would recommend reading through a bunch of the posts that have been made already by smart knowledgeable members who have already installed the ML-ACR System to their coach. Pay close attention to posts made by Vanwill as he was the one that recommended it to me back in 2017 when my Lambert Battery Maintainer failed while on our National Park Tour. Unfortunately being on the road made it difficult to order one and have it shipped as we were moving around frequently.

Simply go to the top on the right side of the Home Page is a search area. Type in ML-ACR and BINGO, you will have plenty of explanations, benefits, photos and installation instructions.

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10 hours ago, Dr4Film said:

Gary,

I would recommend reading through a bunch of the posts that have been made already by smart knowledgeable members who have already installed the ML-ACR System to their coach. Pay close attention to posts made by Vanwill as he was the one that recommended it to me back in 2017 when my Lambert Battery Maintainer failed while on our National Park Tour. Unfortunately being on the road made it difficult to order one and have it shipped as we were moving around frequently.

Simply go to the top on the right side of the Home Page is a search area. Type in ML-ACR and BINGO, you will have plenty of explanations, benefits, photos and installation instructions.

Thank you sir

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9 hours ago, FishAR said:

I've read ml-acr posts until my eyes are bleeding, but have seen no pics comparable to my unit.

 

So does this unit replace the trombetta in my rear elec. bay?

Michael,

I have installed a few of the ML-ACR’s in different coaches. Can you post a picture of your bay with the existing wiring (Big Boy, Trombetta, etc) and we can see how you could proceed?
 

Paul

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8 hours ago, pwhittle said:

Michael,

I have installed a few of the ML-ACR’s in different coaches. Can you post a picture of your bay with the existing wiring (Big Boy, Trombetta, etc) and we can see how you could proceed?
 

Paul

Thanks Paul.

1st pic rear bay with trombetta, 2nd pic front bay with ird.

rear elec bay.jpg

front elec bay.jpg

Edited by FishAR
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Hi Michael,

That is different from other coaches I have worked on.

A few questions:

1 Is the relay in the RRB for the Salesman Switch?

2 Is the relay in the FRB for combining the battery banks?

3 Do you have a Battery Boost switch?

4 If so, does it make the relay in the FRB click?

5 Is there a part number on the relay in the FRB?

6 Do you have wiring diagrams for the FRB?

Thanks

Paul

 

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Back early this year I started to question whether my Lambert LE415 was working correctly, this is what would maintain my chassis battery was plugged in.  For some reason the Lambert started to click intermediately, which I never remember it doing before.  I started to check my chassis battery and it was usually reading ~12.4 volts, not enough to keep it charged fully.  So I started to look at options. 

I know the VanWill & PWhittle had installed the Bluesea ML-ACR and I had talked to Van on this several times.   I saw no downside to installing this as it would replace the Lambert, BIRD, and Isolation relay.  The isolation relay is what combines the battery banks for the auxiliary boost and is activated by a switch on the dash.    The Bluesea would do the same thing automatically.   The hardest part for me was finding an extra wire from the dash to the rear of the coach to wire in the switch.  I wasted at least a day looking for wire and finally just ran five extra wires for future use. 

The install itself relatively easy, simply remove the isolation relay and replace with the Bluesea.  You can actually just install that and it would work combining both batteries if there is a charging source but to make it convenient to combine the batteries from the drivers seat the switch is required.  After I ran the extra wire I just followed the wiring diagram to connect the switch, simple enough that even I could do it.

There are options to wire the Bluesea to not connect while starting the coach, and or running the generator.  There have been reports of problems with a charging system if you run the generator down the road competing with the alternator.  There is an option to wire the Bluesea so that if it sees charge from the generator it would not combine battery banks, which would isolate the chassis battery.  This is an easy option and one that I am considering.

Here is a picture of my Bluesea install, it is mounted where my isolation relay was. 

Blue Sea ML-ARC.jpg

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2 hours ago, pwhittle said:

Hi Michael,

That is different from other coaches I have worked on.

A few questions:

1 Is the relay in the RRB for the Salesman Switch?

2 Is the relay in the FRB for combining the battery banks?

3 Do you have a Battery Boost switch?

4 If so, does it make the relay in the FRB click?

5 Is there a part number on the relay in the FRB?

6 Do you have wiring diagrams for the FRB?

Thanks

Paul

 

I have a whole book of wiring diagrams that came with the coach. I'll have to get out there and take wife with me to answer about the click. I'll get the part numbers I can find and write them down.

I do have a battery boost switch on the dash.

I thought the big trombetta relay in the back elec bay was to combine the batteries with the boost switch, but I really don't know enough about this unit to say for sure.

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22 minutes ago, FishAR said:

I thought the big trombetta relay in the back elec bay was to combine the batteries with the boost switch, but I really don't know enough about this unit to say for sure.

I think you're right,  seems you would want it close to the batteries and engine.   The front elect bay is a long way from the batteries and eng IMHO.

I installed a ML-ACR in my 03 Windsor,  looks just like Jim's.   I still haven't installed the control switch up front,  maybe soon.

Edited by Ray Davis
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2 hours ago, Ray Davis said:

I think you're right,  seems you would want it close to the batteries and engine.   The front elect bay is a long way from the batteries and eng IMHO.

I installed a ML-ACR in my 03 Windsor,  looks just like Jim's.   I still haven't installed the control switch up front,  maybe soon.

The control switch is nice to have as it allows for flexibility and convenience.  There are LED lights on it, so when it is connected it displays both light and then one light on top if the ML-ACR is "On" and bottom if it is "Off".  When I was working on my coach I had turned one of the disconnects off and forgot about it.  Next day when I was in the coach the light was flashing on and off showing something was wrong. 

If you do run one wire you might as well run multiple.  I was trying to buy a 50' piece of 14 awg to run and not one had it locally but Harbor Freight had a 5 wire trailer harness for a good price so I bought two of these and spliced them together, it was an easy pull through the 3/4" conduit I had already run for my fuel pressure gauge. 

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My alternator is out it is the LN 14 v 270amp duvac   I am going to install the ML-ACR and go to a Delco  28si  Is the 200 amp a sufficient replacement for my 270 amp? I also have a multi wire plug coming out of my alternator is this the wire that goes to my tachometer. Pictures below

Thanks Tom C

70197B38-7044-4B78-B913-3ACFD66D8177.jpeg

10441E5A-4AB0-406B-A5B8-50B159F59E10.jpeg

1E2EE37B-7690-41CB-971C-98198AC30AA5.jpeg

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I suppose yours is an all electric coach with LN 270A? Ours got a 200A that works fine but we are not 'all electric' with only 4 house batteries. The wires from the back of it are for the tach, duvac and ALT light relay.

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He claims it is "out ", which to me means it has failed.

I think going to a smaller output alternator is not what I would do.

I went from a 160 amp to a 200 amp. No more worries whether I have enough amps or not.

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6 minutes ago, Dr4Film said:

He claims it is "out ", which to me means it has failed.

I think going to a smaller output alternator is not what I would do.

I went from a 160 amp to a 200 amp. No more worries whether I have enough amps or not.

Missed the "out".  My recommends is to have it rebuilt

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9 minutes ago, jacwjames said:

Yup, but he says the current alternator is a 270 amp unit, no reason he couldn't drop back to a 200 amp which should be plenty. 

Why would they have installed a 270 amp alternator if a 200 one would we plenty?

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On 9/17/2021 at 8:31 AM, jacwjames said:

I saw no downside to installing this as it would replace the Lambert, BIRD, and Isolation relay.  

When you replace/remove the BIRD, where do you reconnect the wires (i.e. genset, ignition, solenoid, etc.)?  Do you have a wiring diagram?

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Just to clarify, we bought the motor home a year ago. On my initial service to have the engine looked over the alternator was replaced with the the same amp and voltage LN. Drove across country 6000 miles. Then after a short trip realized the alternator was no longer charging anything. It was rebuilt under warranty it only lasted 50 miles so that is where I am at now. I was looking through my owners manual and saw where the original equipment was a 200 amp alternator PO changed to 270 amp. When alternator was changed a year ago it was bent pulley can’t remember exactly and don’t have paper work with me . The last problems were different alternator got so hot it melted inside

Only have 4 batteries  it is not all electric

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