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Microwave


Georgia Mike

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First day of the trip we are on my wife was using the microwave for awhile heating some things up and it stopped working. The screen is dead no power. I checked the plug and I have power at the outlet and there are no signs of the plug or outlet melting visible but I didn’t take the outlet apart. I know these rv outlets are crap and can cause a bad connection and I’m thinking that might have caused it to over heat and blow an internal fuse. Has anyone replaced the fuse in a Sharp 1874 before? I’m getting conflicting info some say it’s in the back near the power cord and others say it’s in the front near the touch pad. Just thought I would ask before I take it down.

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There are one or two fuses in side the unit. You have to take it apart to get to them. 

They are special Microwave fuses that can be bought at Lowes or HD for about $5.

Cheaper than a new Microwave.

Don

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Mike, if you haven't removed a Sharp microwave previously, remember that there are generally two screws mounted to each side of the microwave that go into the adjacent wood cabinet. You need to remove those first before using a socket to undo the two long angled bolts that hold the microwave to the back plate. It's heavy so I would recommend two people when it is completely free of attachments. Place a furniture blanket on the counter then swing the microwave down to the counter and lift the back edge off of the bottom of the back plate.

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If a simple fuse fix then the fuse blew for a reason.  Low voltage can cause the uwave to draw more current, blowing the internal fuse.  Check for melting inside the AC outlet supplying the fuse. 

If it keeps blowing fuses you can get internal parts for uwaves (been there, done that).  Much cheaper than a new unit, and you don't have to adapt the mounting . . . . or re-learn how to cook!

- bob

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I'd double check that outlet.  Mine was getting intermittent power but was roasting inside.  Wiggled the plug and it worked, them I took a look. Not a chance I'd wanna take. 

20211024_101425.jpg

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Thanks for the replies. I all ready ran an extension cord to it and it’s still dead and plugged blow dryer in microwave outlet and it worked fine. I am going to pull it down when I get back home. Thanks for the advice on taking it down i was just trying to get an idea where to look inside for the fuse or fuses 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well I located the internal fuse for the microwave and it was blown. I also took apart the plug socket in the cabinet and it was making good contact. I ended up replacing the socket because I don’t like those rv press in plugs they use. I replaced the internal fuse and the microwave powered up fine but when I tried to heat some water up it ran for about 2 seconds and blew the fuse again. So now I’m looking for a new microwave……..bummer

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11 minutes ago, Georgia Mike said:

Well I located the internal fuse for the microwave and it was blown. I also took apart the plug socket in the cabinet and it was making good contact. I ended up replacing the socket because I don’t like those rv press in plugs they use. I replaced the internal fuse and the microwave powered up fine but when I tried to heat some water up it ran for about 2 seconds and blew the fuse again. So now I’m looking for a new microwave……..bummer

I had a dead uwave once.  Turned out to be a dead control board.  I don't recall it blowing fuses, just dead.  Simple fix. 

If you like your uwave you could try changing the magnetron.  I say 'try' because I'm not an expert but don't know what else would draw a lot of current during operating phase.  Parts are generally available through repair centers, but you have to do the research.

- bob

 

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There's a fuse behind the keypad.

It's tough to see, but it's on the bottom left side when you pull the keypad.

Don't need to remove the oven from the wall to get at this one.

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  • 1 month later...

Just a follow up on my microwave to help someone else. I read on line that most of the time when you have the symptoms I had the capacitor is the culprit. When I located it it was leaking something so I new it was definitely bad. I got a new one and replaced the fuse again and now it’s installed back in the Motorhome and working great. Saved 600-800 bucks

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  • 1 month later...
On 4/19/2022 at 8:22 AM, Dr4Film said:

Mike, if you haven't removed a Sharp microwave previously, remember that there are generally two screws mounted to each side of the microwave that go into the adjacent wood cabinet. You need to remove those first before using a socket to undo the two long angled bolts that hold the microwave to the back plate. It

's heavy so I would recommend two people when it is completely free of attachments. Place a furniture blanket on the counter then swing the microwave down to the counter and lift the back edge off of the bottom of the back plate.

Thanks for the info on removal.  I'm updating our old Sharp with a new GE and upon initial inspection I can see they didn't install either of the top 2 mounting screws that go through the upper cabinet above the microwave.  Holes are there, no fasteners ....  I was wondering what was holding this thing in place............

Now I know where to look!

Thanks!

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1 hour ago, LakeBob said:

Thanks for the info on removal.  I'm updating our old Sharp with a new GE and upon initial inspection I can see they didn't install either of the top 2 mounting screws that go through the upper cabinet above the microwave.  Holes are there, no fasteners ....  I was wondering what was holding this thing in place............

Now I know where to look!

Thanks!

Curiosity for the gang.  There was a running debate on the OLD site.  I never remember reading that the upper two fasteners were not there.  Now that I THINK about it...I do NOT remember seeing them in mine....but never have pulled out the shelf and looked. I have installed a lot of GE's and Panasonics and Sharps...but ALL had the two top, front mounting screws.  That got me to wondering.  Since the kitchen cabinets (residential) have a solid bottom or floor, then you have a solid member to tighten the screws up against.  I have NEVER pulled out the bottom plate or panel above the Microwave.  Is it like most of the Monaco cabinets and has a upper layer and then a void and then the bottom?  I guess if that is the case, then as long as you are running the fasteners through the solid bottom, you are OK.  Let us know about how you mount the GE and maybe a photograph. A LOT of folks have been "stymied" about how to get that blankety blank Sharp down, short of a crow bar once they pulled the back bolts....

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2 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

  I have NEVER pulled out the bottom plate or panel above the Microwave.  Is it like most of the Monaco cabinets and has a upper layer and then a void and then the bottom? 

Mine does, and I suspect yours does as well.

3 long sheet metal screws running into the front top of the Sharp cabinet from in there.

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Mine only have the two long mounting screws going from the bottom of the microwave near the two front corners diagonally to the back wall mounting plate.  There are no screws through the cabinet into the side of the microwave.  65,000 miles and it shows no signs of falling down. 

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28 minutes ago, Frank McElroy said:

Mine only have the two long mounting screws going from the bottom of the microwave near the two front corners diagonally to the back wall mounting plate.  There are no screws through the cabinet into the side of the microwave.  65,000 miles and it shows no signs of falling down. 

Who says Monaco is inconsistent and does not have “Operator Instruction Sheets” and  not train the assemblers well.  You have TWO bolts.  Some have said there were TWO side screws in addition to the bolts,  Some say only ONE side screw….plus Bolts.  Seems to me if you loosen the bolts, assuming it has them and the @#$&4=/ Microwave doesn’t fall, then one would look for screws….and if you remove one with no crashing of the unit, then look for a second.  It you remove BOTH, look out below.  Not to be .sarcastic, (ME. NEVER) but the correct advice regarding “Bolt and/or Screws) holding up a Factory Sharp is “It DEPENDS”…

Seriously, you just proved the Colonel’s First Law or Rule.  NO TWO Coaches, even identical coming off consecutively off the Assembly Line, are the same.

Thus endetth the Gospel according to the Colonel.  Do I get an AMEN? 

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11 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:

Who says Monaco is inconsistent and does not have “Operator Instruction Sheets” and  not train the assemblers well.  You have TWO bolts.  Some have said there were TWO side screws in addition to the bolts,  Some say only ONE side screw….plus Bolts.  Seems to me if you loosen the bolts, assuming it has them and the @#$&4=/ Microwave doesn’t fall, then one would look for screws….and if you remove one with no crashing of the unit, then look for a second.  It you remove BOTH, look out below.  Not to be .sarcastic, (ME. NEVER) but the correct advice regarding “Bolt and/or Screws) holding up a Factory Sharp is “It DEPENDS”…

Seriously, you just proved the Colonel’s First Law or Rule.  NO TWO Coaches, even identical coming off consecutively off the Assembly Line, are the same.

Thus endetth the Gospel according to the Colonel.  Do I get an AMEN? 

All I can say is that I know how mine is mounted.  I've had it down once so I know. 

I sure would like to know if anyone else out there with an 08 Dynasty Diamond IV has side screws into the microwave cabinet.

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AMEN!  Great info guys.  My coach was assembled in June of 2008, sold in August 2008 as a 2009 model, so no telling what I will find. 

I have a small cabinet above the microwave and they drilled holes through the cabinet base and I can see the mounting nuts on the top of the unit.   The cabinet based appears to be secure and not a false floor, however I need to spend a little more time investigating.    Coach is back in the shop for an air leak, hopefully get into it later this week. 

I'll be sure to take lots of pictures when I remove.

 

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Finally got a chance to remove the microwave.  Mine was only held in place by the rear mounting bracket and the two mounting bolts that are located on the bottom of the unit and fasten to the upper portion of the mounting bracket.  Lots of holes in cabinet above the microwave, however no screws in the upper mounts. 

After 12 years the unit was still firmly in place.  Still amazed that there were no upper screws, however all the large holes would have required big washers or a backing plate of some style to be of any use.  

 

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IMG_3685.JPEG

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Bob, Thanks for sharing.  Mine was mounted the same way.  Only 2 long mounting bolts from the bottom to the back plate.  No other side screws and the Microwave has stayed in place with no problem for over 60,000 miles.

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Appears it just came down to whatever the installer felt like doing.

The 3 additional screws from the upper cabinet on mine didn't use any large dia bored holes.

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38 minutes ago, 96 EVO said:

Appears it just came down to whatever the installer felt like doing.

The 3 additional screws from the upper cabinet on mine didn't use any large dia bored holes.

My feeling, as a a former manufacturing engineer with several companies and plants...  The Assemblers were ill trained and they rotated in and out and there were no formal instructions or any "Operator DO THIS" guidelines. It got WORSE, God Forbid, as they started to scale back...  Obviously the need for the additional screws along the outer band or frame was really not needed....NOW, as to what to do with a conventional mounting system, like the GE's....there needs to be ample support or upper shelf, like you would see in residential cabinets.  Otherwise, the tested Sharp mount would be the choice...

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The large diameter holes were not used for any part of the installation.  Only one went through the plywood, luan overlay and carpet.......the others were probably a result of Tom's observations above.  It was the end of the manufacturing line for my coach so who knows what was going on.

Have the opening prepped for the GE and fortunately the swiss cheese of holes in the upper cabinet isnt too big of an issue.  Only need an extra large fender washer on one side!  

Next up: taking out the original TV above the dash and installing the biggest smart TV on an articulated mount.   

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