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Crash Course in Setting Up & Using a Magnum MS-2012 Inverter/Charger Plus AGS


Dr4Film

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I have a Magnum PSW Inverter/Charger model MS-2012 installed in my Dynasty along with a ME-AGS-S.

I need a crash course on setting up the AGS plus how to use the remote display.

The remote has one button to turn ON/OFF the Inverter and another button to turn ON/OFF the Charger.

One thing that is dramatically different than what I have been used to with the Xantrex/Trace Inverter/Charger RC7-GS Remote Panel in my Windsor is the Inverter Green Light when on shore or generator power. With the Xantrex/Trace RC7-GS, if hooked to shore or generator power the green Inverter light would go from solid green to flashing green which means the Inverter is in "standby" mode. With the Magnum Remote when I am hooked to shore or generator power the green Inverter light remains solid all the time.

Is this correct?? I don't believe that one should have to turn the Inverter button to off each time when hooked to shore power or using the generator.

What am I missing?

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How do I know whether I have the ME-RC Remote or the ME-ARC remote?

I have downloaded manuals for the MS-2012, the ME-AGS-S and the ME-RC.

Does anyone already have a programming list of each menu selection on how the remote should be programmed when using 4 - 6VDC Wet Cell Batteries?

I had one for the Xantrex/Trace RC7-GS that I would use to make sure all of the settings were correct as I scrolled through each menu selection. The new owner of the Windsor now has it.

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What model remote control do you have?  I use AGS all the time and have the ME-ARC remote with the ME-AGS-N control.  I had the earlier version but couldn't get the accuracy I wanted with the dial AGS.  Also I think the ME-ARC is easier to adjust the AGS modes as you do it inside instead of at the bay.  It's plug and play.

Magnum Remote Control Panel ME-ARC Advanced.pdf Magnum Network AGS Automatic Generator Start.pdf

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Thanks everyone for the resources to get me going on understanding the remote control & standalone AGS system plus the operations of the MS-2012 PSW Inverter/Charger.

I appreciate the help!

Edited by Dr4Film
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14 hours ago, myrontruex said:

I don't know if this will help Richard. 

Took a quick look at this video but it doesn't pertain to my coach as it doesn't have an Intellitec EMS System. However, I wished that it did as my Windsor has one which I had used in many locations where we have stayed.

One of our deceased members, Bill Groves (RIP), installed an Intellitec EMS System into his 2006 Dynasty. I had looked his coach to purchase but thankfully the deal didn't go through otherwise I wouldn't have found this one that is absolutely perfect. It has everything I was looking for in a 2006 Dynasty coach.

If I feel ambitious someday, I just may take that on as an upgrade project to add to my Dynasty since it is an All-Electric coach now that the LPG 2-burner stovetop has been replaced with a dual Induction cooktop. The LPG tank is still half full of propane which I may have emptied someday.

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I attempted to use the TECH button to determine the version like a previous poster suggested and got no information at all. So, I am led to believe that it is a ME-RC remote versus the ME-ARC remote.

I have seen the AGS module mounted to the ceiling in the bay where the Inverter/Charger are mounted to the same ceiling. I am certain that it is the ME-AGS-S model.

I have been going through many YouTube videos trying to learn as much as I can quickly as we will be leaving soon for out 5-day 4-night trip to New Hampshire.

Since we dry camp the entire way, I want to make sure we have the AGS set properly to come on when the hose batteries get to 12.2 or so.

Based on what I have read and seen so far, the settings for the AGS are a lot different for the Magnum than they are for the Xantrex/Trace RC7-GS remote.

Another question, can I easily upgrade the remote to the ME-ARC (newest version) and the AGS to the ME-AGS-N newest version by using the same wiring, etc. or do I have to run new cables, etc?

57 minutes ago, W7BE_Bob said:

Use the propane for BBQ or Firepit, just need tap and hose.

Great idea. I have an LPG firepit that would work out great!

I now use the Biolite charcoal grill/firepit versus carrying around a gas grill. I love it plus I can control it with an app on my smart phone.

Amazon.com : BioLite FirePit+ Outdoor Smokeless Wood & Charcoal Burning FirePit and Grill : Patio, Lawn & Garden

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19 minutes ago, Dr4Film said:

Another question, can I easily upgrade the remote to the ME-ARC (newest version) and the AGS to the ME-AGS-N newest version by using the same wiring, etc. or do I have to run new cables, etc?

I put the ME-ARC and ME-AGS-N in a number of years ago, pretty sure it was plug & play.  I also put the BMK battery monitoring kit in.

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Richard

When I bought my 2006 Beaver a few years ago, I found the original AGS to be inconvenient.  Nicely enough, I found the ME-ARC and ME-AGS-N new-old-stock on E-BAY very inexpensive.  It was pretty much a plug-and-play upgrade other than having to learn where all the menus are and how to set things up.  I doubt that you can find them cheaply anymore, but I do consider them to be a worthwhile upgrade if you want an easy to use AGS.

Richard

p.s.  Be sure to check which battery bank your AGS is sensing.  Mine was wired to sense the engine starting batteries (DUH).  Sure had to change that.

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Thanks!

I think while we are up in New Hampshire for the summer I will look for a new upgraded Remote version and AGS-N if a set happens to come along at a reasonable price.

I do know that the generator starts off of the chassis battery bank, but I do not know exactly which battery bank the AGS is sensing.

How would I be able to differentiate between the two?

 

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1 hour ago, Hypoxia said:

I put the ME-ARC and ME-AGS-N in a number of years ago, pretty sure it was plug & play.  I also put the BMK battery monitoring kit in.

The ME-AGS-N seems to have a Network Port which the ME-AGS-S does not have. The ME-RC Remote appears to be currently wired directly to the ME-AGS-S whereas the ME-ARC appears to go to wired to the Inverter then the ME_AGS-N is networked to the Inverter also using a network cable. Is this correct? 

If I do this upgrade, what cables do I need to run if any.

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Richard

After I installed the new AGS-N, it started just fine with the "test" mode.  However, it would not start correctly from a "low voltage" condition.  I grabbed my digital VOM and started testing continuity on the sense wire to the AGS-N.  That's when I found that the sense wire was attached to the bus bar for the starting battery and not the bus bar for the house batteries.  Thanks to Monaco's nicely labeled wires, it was just a situation of moving the wire from a post on one bus bar to a post on the other bus bar right next it.  My AGS is installed in the FRB along with all the battery bus bar connections.  I have since read on many Monaco forums, that it was common in those years to have the AGS sense wire connected to the wrong battery bank from the factory.  People who did little boondocking never noticed that the AGS did not function correctly.

Just to satisfy my own curiosity, I looked up current prices for the AGS-N and Remote monitor.  Needless to say, sticker shock set in.  I had paid about $100 for the pair.  Current prices look to be about $500.  Oh well!  It is still a worthwhile upgrade.  I "assume" your original still has the mechanical potentiometers on the AGS, and they were a nuisance to use.  And, mine was in the FRB, so I had to go outside and open the bay door to make any changes.  What a nuisance.

Richard 

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I really like doing upgrades that make life easier to use any device and system.

My AGS-S with the pot's is mounted next to the Inverter. They are both mounted to the ceiling of the storage bay adjacent to the Tank/Aqua-Hot Bay on the passenger side of the coach.

I have decided to do this, and you're right, the prices will be right around $500-$600 which includes the ME-ARC Remote, the ME_AGS-N, the ME-BMK-NS Battery Monitor and the ME-BTS Battery Temp Sensor.

I am hoping that this will be an easy Plug-N-Play without having to run cable here and there.

I will put the two older devices on eBay to get whatever I can for them which will soften the financial blow somewhat.

Edited by Dr4Film
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Many years ago I tested the AGS to see if it worked…never used it as I monitor my battery voltages when dry camping. Don’t need it starting during quite hours.

Current rig I’ve not bothered to see if it works as most mornings even though the house AGM battery voltage is usually 12.2-.3, the generator will not start unless I use the boost switch. Fairly common problem with the long battery cable runs.

Adding another battery next to the generator is only on my “some day” list. I have a 300amp diode I’ll add to the current 12V cable before the new battery so the house batteries cannot draw it down but it will still charge the new battery. On second thought, it’s probably on my I “doubt it” list.

Edited by Ivylog
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Richard

The old version that I had (see attached picture) had two RJ11 communication cables just like the AGS-N, making it an easy upgrade.  If the one you want to replace only has one RJ11 port, than you will evidently have to run another comm cable and things will not be as easy as it was for some of the rest of us.  It sounds like you may wish to make a call to Magnum tech support with the specifics of your current installation and what would be required to upgrade to the AGS-N.  Good luck.

Richard 

magnum-ags-wiring-diagram.png

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Richard

You may wish to carefully check your current AGS to determine if it is actually the ME-AGS-S, or if it is just the OLD version of the ME-AGS.  I cannot comprehend that Monaco would actually install an AGS-S in a Motorhome since that version is specifically designed for installations that do not have an inverter.  So, I am left a bit puzzled.  Please let all of us know what you find out.  Thanks.

Richard

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12 minutes ago, hex_nut said:

Please let all of us know what you find out.  Thanks.

Richard

Just went into the storage bay to look at what ME-AGS-S I have, it does have two ports, one labeled Network and one labeled Remote so I am good to go.

How important is it to have a working Battery Temp Monitor because when I installed the new set of House Batteries, I did not find an extra cable that would attach to a battery post that looked anything resembling the Battery Temp Monitor. However, there is one plugged into the port at the Inverter.

I guess i would need to trace that wire to see where it is in the Battery Bay Compartment.

There is one cable way in the back of the Battery Compartment laying on the floor but when I looked at it doesn't look anything like the Magnum BTS pictured on the Internet.

After looking closer at the diagram, you had posted above, the one port labeled Remote has a four wire Interior Temp Sensor on the inside end.

Where would that be located inside my coach?

I thought I had discovered where everything was and what it was for, but I am still discovering new stuff every day.

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Richard

That is good news.  That means you do not have an ME-AGS-S.  You have the old standard mechanical predecessor to the ME-AGS-N.  It was simply called the ME-AGS before the "-S" and "-N" designations came about.  Are there two data cables inserted in those ports in your AGS?  Mine are simply labeled "AGS", with one being a green label and the other being a purple label.  The green labeled cable goes back to the inverter/charger.  If you have both data cables, you are good to go.  The purple one actually goes to a temp sensor somewhere in your coach that triggers the temperature start for the generator to run the air conditioners when you leave pets in the coach in the Summer.  I have no idea where they would have put it in your coach (snowflakes).  Mine is actually in the cabinet above the driver.

As to your other question, different types of batteries have different charging parameters depending on temperature.  Flooded lead acid batteries produce a lot of heat while charging, so temperature sensors become important.  Lithium batteries also have temperature tolerance issues, AGM's not so much.  The temp sensors often get eaten up with acid from flooded batteries, or are simply disconnected and not reinstalled when people are not paying attention.  I switched to AGM batteries because I did not like the corrosion issues of flooded batteries (golf cart batteries).  My Magnum temperature sensor had been destroyed by the acid from the flooded batteries, so I ordered a new one (see picture).  If you cannot find yours, I would recommend getting a new one since it will make your battery charging more efficient.

Richard   

magnum temp sensor.jpg

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On 5/5/2022 at 7:26 AM, Dr4Film said:

How do I know whether I have the ME-RC Remote or the ME-ARC remote?

I have downloaded manuals for the MS-2012, the ME-AGS-S and the ME-RC.

Does anyone already have a programming list of each menu selection on how the remote should be programmed when using 4 - 6VDC Wet Cell Batteries?

I had one for the Xantrex/Trace RC7-GS that I would use to make sure all of the settings were correct as I scrolled through each menu selection. The new owner of the Windsor now has it.

The ME-RC and ME-ARC have different function buttons along the bottom. ME-RC buttons are Shore-AGS-Meter-Setup-Tech. ME-ARC buttons are Favs-CTRL-Meter-Setup-Tech. That’s the only way I know to tell the difference. 
 

I had a ME2012 and replaced it with a MS2012. Neither requires doing anything with the Inverter button when switching between shore and house power except when some rogue electron may have switched the inverter off.

Ed          
‘05 HR Ambassador

E91CEF7A-102F-47B6-A613-1EC1B40C5880.png

25361863-7DF3-4C7D-BB10-34FB809E731D.png

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