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ABS & ATC lights!


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Check your manual, Monaco usually put instructions on how to recover the ABS fault codes.

In my case I have an ABS diagnostic module in my front drivers side electrical bay.  To recover codes I have to turn the key on without starting, wait until the "Wait to start" light goes out, press the brake pedal ONE time, go outside and press the small black button on the module for 1-2 seconds (do not press longer then 2 seconds).  There is a blink light on the board, it will flash a 2 part blink code if there are any faults registered.  If there are no faults I think it blinks a 1-1.

But the last time my light came on I tried to recover the blink codes but the button on the board didn't seem right.  I had problems with it getting dirt in in before and could used compressed air to blow it out to get it moving.  The dirt causes the button to hang in and the ABS light comes on.  That didn't fix it so I took the board off and gently pried the button out of the housing.  There is a small spring plate with 4 legs, which hold the button off the contacts, I gently bent the 4 legs down to give the button a little more lift.  That fixed that problem. 

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  • 1 month later...
On 5/22/2022 at 4:20 PM, Ted Carbonaro said:

Thanks men. I’ll do some investigation and get back to you. 

Ted,

Did you resolve this?  I’d love to know the resolution as my ‘06 Dip just started the same trick. 

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1 hour ago, jacwjames said:

Scotty,

Did you try to recover the blink codes, that's the first place to start. 

Not yet… I’m not at the coach today, but plan to head over there this evening to start checking and testing. 

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Try to recover the ABS codes.  About the only way to figure out whats going on.

One thing that has happened to be a couple times was that the small button on the ABS Diagnostic Module was stuck.   While driving dirt gets in/under the button and eventually it vibrates so that the button is stuck in and the light comes on.  I've removed the module a couple times and cleaned off using compressed air, rapidly pressing the button to free it up and clean it out.

The last time I had an ABS stay on the button didn't seem to want to come back out the way it should.  So I took the module out and gently removed the button.  Under the button is a spring plate with four small legs.  I bent the legs down a little to help elevate the button above the contacts.  This worked and the light went out. 

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We did try to read the ABS module this past weekend with the Cummins Insite / Bendix software, but couldn’t get it to connect.  

Guess I’ll go start twisten de knobs, flippin de switches, and pressin de buttons.  

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My situation seems to resolve itself. The ABS and ATC lights came one during one short trip. They did come on one second time but went out pretty quickly. 
so glad m not sure if it’s an indication of a future issue. 

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38 minutes ago, Scotty Hutto said:

We did try to read the ABS module this past weekend with the Cummins Insite / Bendix software, but couldn’t get it to connect.  

Guess I’ll go start twisten de knobs, flippin de switches, and pressin de buttons.  

Two DUMB things.  Have you used Frank’s “reset the J-1393 trick.  Pull the negative cables off.  You will need to pull the two charging fuses if you have solar.  One goes to the House and the other to the Chassis battery banks or cover the solar panel.

The debate i how long.  Probably almost instantaneous, but 15 minutes should dissipate any stored energy…

The OTHER trick would be to use the magnetic reset.  I assume we’re talking about the same unit.  There is an area marked RESET.  You put a magnet there and remove it and then it resets and also reconfigures, like the house Tsats.  The brain reads all the sensors and other peripherals.

Google it….there is a diagram.  

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1 hour ago, Scotty Hutto said:

We did try to read the ABS module this past weekend with the Cummins Insite / Bendix software, but couldn’t get it to connect.  

Guess I’ll go start twisten de knobs, flippin de switches, and pressin de buttons.  

As strange as it may seam, the engine, transmission and ASB systems all work together sharing data.  If the engine doesn't generate the expected amount of power at certain throttle positions, the transmission will detect it and shut off the ATC system.  Most often, changing the fuel filters will solve the problem.  The transmission needs to detect proper drive wheel speed for the ATC system to work.  If a drive wheel speed sensor is not functioning properly both the ABS and ATC lights are likely to come on.

Did you connect to the rear data service port?  Sometimes the front port doesn't have the high speed data bus.

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42 minutes ago, Frank McElroy said:

As strange as it may seam, the engine, transmission and ASB systems all work together sharing data.  If the engine doesn't generate the expected amount of power at certain throttle positions, the transmission will detect it and shut off the ATC system.  Most often, changing the fuel filters will solve the problem.  The transmission needs to detect proper drive wheel speed for the ATC system to work.  If a drive wheel speed sensor is not functioning properly both the ABS and ATC lights are likely to come on.

Did you connect to the rear data service port?  Sometimes the front port doesn't have the high speed data bus.

Yes, @pwhittle connected to the rear J1939 (9-pin) port by the engine.  The J1708 (6-pin) port up front didn’t get a reading.  He is going to send you the engine report. We never got the ABS to pull a report. 

I have two extra sets of Fleetgard fuel filters.  That’s an “easy” swap to try with virtually no negative consequences. 

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13 minutes ago, Scotty Hutto said:

Yes, @pwhittle connected to the rear J1939 (9-pin) port by the engine.  The J1708 (6-pin) port up front didn’t get a reading.  He is going to send you the engine report. We never got the ABS to pull a report. 

I have two extra sets of Fleetgard fuel filters.  That’s an “easy” swap to try with virtually no negative consequences. 

At the risk of being an old fogey, I spent a lot of time on the phone with Bendix early on when the Colonel promoted me to “hall monitor”.  The tech swore up and down that a momentary blip or engine hesitation would not register on the ABS….nor would it cause a “light”.

The popular theory on the old site was that clogged or partially clogged fuel filters would produce a hesitation or a slight miss, not perceptible to the driver.

The Colonel was a big believer that the ABS was in fact, an early warning of bad fuel or some type of clogging in the fuel system.

We had many members including the Foretravel pilot who agreed with him.  No hard evidence, but a lot of ABS issues solved.  We weren’t sophisticated and didn’t have folks with software and such.  But some folks did try to get codes and such via the lights and the elementary diagnostic procedures.  

SO, maybe changing filters and driving it…. BTW, it never hurts to dump in the StarTron StarBrite Diesel additive.  Twice times the normal works,  marine boaters swear by it.  It has saved a lot folks and It has cleaned up a lot of tanks and is cheaper than polishing.  I carry some for emergencies.  

Just a comment….

 

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11 hours ago, Scotty Hutto said:

Yes, @pwhittle connected to the rear J1939 (9-pin) port by the engine.  The J1708 (6-pin) port up front didn’t get a reading.  He is going to send you the engine report. We never got the ABS to pull a report. 

I have two extra sets of Fleetgard fuel filters.  That’s an “easy” swap to try with virtually no negative consequences. 

Paul has the same interface setup and software that I have for reading the chassis computers.  Reading the Bendix ABS computer can sometimes be a challenge.  Offline I sent Paul my notes for how to connect to the various computers.  Next time you guys meet I'm sure he will be able to read your ABS module.

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On 7/6/2022 at 6:07 PM, jacwjames said:

Try to recover the ABS codes.  About the only way to figure out whats going on.

One thing that has happened to be a couple times was that the small button on the ABS Diagnostic Module was stuck.   While driving dirt gets in/under the button and eventually it vibrates so that the button is stuck in and the light comes on.  I've removed the module a couple times and cleaned off using compressed air, rapidly pressing the button to free it up and clean it out.

The last time I had an ABS stay on the button didn't seem to want to come back out the way it should.  So I took the module out and gently removed the button.  Under the button is a spring plate with four small legs.  I bent the legs down a little to help elevate the button above the contacts.  This worked and the light went out. 

Ok. Voice of frustration here…. 

Went to the coach today to get blink codes… from owners manual:

911CFA13-61D9-4DBF-9E77-009456868544.thumb.jpeg.881ab796408328c6c48b7a54f5751965.jpeg
I CAN FIND NO SUCH DEVICE IN MY FRONT RUN BAY!  Called Bob Nodine (who knows a tremendous amount about 2006 Dips), who said he never found it in his either. 🤦🏻‍♂️ Took covers off everything in the FRB… No joy. Pulled the panel off the driver’s side console and found the Bendix brain…. But still no diagnostic switch or lights. Nothing that looks like the drawing in the owners manual. Looked all up under the dash too. 

can someone point me in the right direction, or did they just leave this off my coach?

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3 hours ago, Scotty Hutto said:

Ok. Voice of frustration here…. 

Went to the coach today to get blink codes… from owners manual:

911CFA13-61D9-4DBF-9E77-009456868544.thumb.jpeg.881ab796408328c6c48b7a54f5751965.jpeg
I CAN FIND NO SUCH DEVICE IN MY FRONT RUN BAY!  Called Bob Nodine (who knows a tremendous amount about 2006 Dips), who said he never found it in his either. 🤦🏻‍♂️ Took covers off everything in the FRB… No joy. Pulled the panel off the driver’s side console and found the Bendix brain…. But still no diagnostic switch or lights. Nothing that looks like the drawing in the owners manual. Looked all up under the dash too. 

can someone point me in the right direction, or did they just leave this off my coach?

Frank said some of the “goodies” were hidden in the first full length bay.  He pulled off the ceiling panel.  I THINK on the road side.  He said he left it off.  That piece of info is worth only 1/10th of what you paid me for it.   Just hope I don’t get no blinking lights….

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1 hour ago, Tom Cherry said:

Frank said some of the “goodies” were hidden in the first full length bay.  He pulled off the ceiling panel.  I THINK on the road side.  He said he left it off.  That piece of info is worth only 1/10th of what you paid me for it.   Just hope I don’t get no blinking lights….

Tom, Scotty found the Bendix control box in the driver's side console. 

On the 2008 Dynasty and above models, the Aladdin, Bendix ABS, hwh and power gear relays, and transmission TCM are all located in the ceiling of the first storage bay between the frame rails.  The ceiling cover needs to be removed for access.  For easy access, I leave this cover off.

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I realize that we are years apart and maybe not even the same ABS manufacturer but just in case, my button is very unassuming, right beside the ABS diagnostic plug beside steering wheel.

Screenshot_20220710-185244_Office.jpg

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I know this sounds weird, but the solution is turn on the ignition.  Push the Test button on the ABS module as shown by Scotty 12-15 times.  No less and no more.  Been there done that and got the tip from an Eaton Rep at the Ramblin Pusher Maintenance Session many years ago.

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