M100 to TRW Steering Box Swap

[QueenandI]

First time poster, long time information gather. 2001 Monaco Dipolmatt. Getting ready to swap the busted Sheppard M100 PMN31 to a TRW in the Ohio Welcome Rest Stop on I-70 E 2 hrs from home and want to make sure I have everything I need before I head over there. Been in contact with Weller and have the TRW on the way. Multiple sets of directions, some more complex than others. Sockets, wrench, impact, breaker bar, new filters, DexIII, floor jack, hammer. However, from all my gleaning information, I can not find the size of hole I need to drill for the new TRW adjustment. Any ideas?

What else am I missing? 

Side question, is the onboard air compressor belt or hydraulic driven? Can I run the engine to operate air tools or bring my own compressor to run off the generator?

Thank you for being such a great group of very smart and experienced individuals!

HOOK

 

[Cubflyer]

31 minutes ago, QueenandI said:

Side question, is the onboard air compressor belt or hydraulic driven? Can I run the engine to operate air tools or bring my own compressor to run off the generator?

in a word, YES.... I have done both, run generator and a portable compressor, and run engine and plugging my air hose into the air coupler near the generator.  Good luck with your project.

Ken

[Guest Ray Davis]

Sorry can't help with the bolt / hole size.   However, if you havn't already,  you should get a drain pan because a lot of fluid is coming out when you unscrew those hoses.

I use a plastic tub for mixing concrete from Lowes and a funnel to pour the old oil into the empty jugs. 

Unless you use a creeper I like to find a large piece of cardboard to crawl on, it makes sliding my old body under there much easier.

You can use the coach air system for the impact but an air comp might be a good idea to have along.

A seperaror for the joint on the drag link might be a good idea,  sometimes they are not cooperative.   Harbor Freight if you don't have one.

[gdroberson]

I would use 1" hole saw lots of oil while cutting

[Dr4Film]

When I had Josam's do the switch on my Windsor they also had to install a new (different) Pitman Arm.

Not sure what a Diplomat would need.

[Robert U]

When I cracked a seal on my m80 I was towed to a shop in Duncan, SC. There is no TRW replacement for an M80. They had to use a torch on the bolts to get them out. This is a 2000 Dip. They had it rebuilt and reinstalled it. There is a written procedure somewhere on Monacoers blog on how to do a trw replacement for an M90 or M100.

Good luck

Bob U 2000 dip

[epiner1217]

My husband just did the swap, I found a write up someone did for the swap, I’ll attach the file to this post!

steering gear box swap instruction.pdf

[RNMCBR]

I think I used a 2” hole saw for the adjuster clearance. Depending on how accurately you locate it you could probably get by with a 1 1/4” hole.

[QueenandI]

Thank you for your replies and advise. Yes, I have a new Pittman arm from Wellers too. I appreciate the instructions. It also doesn't give saw hole size to access the adjustment screw on the new TRW, but in the picture it appears to be similar to the mounting holes. 

[Cubflyer]

My turn has come to replace my M100-PMN31 Sheppard steering box, it is leaking fluid from the mount side.  So I called Weller and they said “There is no TRW box that cross references to the Sheppard”. “We have rebuilt Sheppard available with a 15 day wait”…..

So here is my question, since ‘everyone’ says it’s a must to go to a TRW, what is the part number of the TRW that fits? And the part number of the correct pitman arm?    

[cbr046]

On 10/5/2023 at 11:03 PM, Cubflyer said:

My turn has come to replace my M100-PMN31 Sheppard steering box . . . .

And now it's my turn.  😡  Same M100-PMN31 Sheppard steering box

I'm perusing Weller availability but not sure if my 2003 Endeavor 38 ( / Diplomat) uses the TAS65 Spec 126 or 052?

@Cubflyer and @JDCrow what parts did you end up needing?  And which Pittman Arm?

TIA,

- bob

 

[JDCrow]

Here ya go. This is what Weller said I needed and it worked great. 
 

Sorry for the delay. It’s been a zoo for me last few weeks. 

[Cubflyer]

Bob, 

I used what JDCrow used.

You will also need one bolt, lock washer and nut to hold the pitman arm on (I think it is 1/2" x 4", but not sure, I bought it at the local hardware store, grade) 😎 and three longer mounting bolts, the TRW has thicker mounting 'tabs' than the Shepard.  In this thread (epiner1217 from August 2, 2022) there is a very good written instructions on doing the change.   Be sure to cut a hole for the adjustment screw and nut... needs to be larger than 1".  I made a template with a piece of lexan off the new box and bolted it to the MH frame to place the hole correctly.   Making that hole was the hardest part.   Also it is very heavy and located in an awkward location (for lowering and lifting). 

Ken

[cbr046]

On 11/14/2023 at 8:35 PM, Cubflyer said:

Making that hole was the hardest part.  

@Cubflyer @JDCrow The hardest part?  HA!  I can't even get the mounting bolts loose!  🥵  Maybe I need to hit the gym . . . .

I bought a 1000W induction heater and with a 30" breaker bar I still can't get the lower bolt to budge.  And it's cold out (yes, even in GA).  Heading out on Fri so I'll have to table this until next week. 

This is what Sheppard steering is like (for those in unbelief):

Not white knuckle but CONSTANT attention to go straight.  Try I-40 between TN-NC line and Waynesville NC at night!

- bob

 

[JDCrow]

Torque Multiplier. You will need to to torque the bolts back on. It might help take off the bolt. 

[Cubflyer]

1 hour ago, cbr046 said:

with a 30" breaker bar

Ha!  Try a 4’ pipe slid over the end of that breaker bar!

[Cubflyer]

In reference to the video, it is my opinion that the steering wheel is NOT there to make the vehicle go straight down the road, it's there to steer the vehicle, make the vehicle change lanes, go around a corner, etc.... If you do not have watts link or a second panhard rod in the front and either crossbars or watts link or second panhard rod in the back, it is the nature of the beast... and the only thing the more precise TRW steering box will do is allow you to 'control' the wander more precisely!  I'm leaving tomorrow for a 6hr trek  to New Orleans, the first drive since my TRW install.  It's got to be better than no power steering drive from Denver to Memphis last month!  Even with the Shepard box I never moved the wheel that often or that much...(after installing the watts/crossbars/front swaybar)

Ken

Edited November 29, 2023 by Cubflyer
clarity

[Tom Cherry]

2 hours ago, cbr046 said:

@Cubflyer @JDCrow The hardest part?  HA!  I can't even get the mounting bolts loose!  🥵  Maybe I need to hit the gym . . . .

I bought a 1000W induction heater and with a 30" breaker bar I still can't get the lower bolt to budge.  And it's cold out (yes, even in GA).  Heading out on Fri so I'll have to table this until next week. 

This is what Sheppard steering is like (for those in unbelief):

Not white knuckle but CONSTANT attention to go straight.  Try I-40 between TN-NC line and Waynesville NC at night!

- bob

 

Remember….breaking loose a bolt, even with all the old “shade tree” tips of where brute force reduces the brain to a Walnut might work.  There has never been a bolted joint that sheer will power and stupidity couldn’t break loose….be CAREFUL.  Next up, you will need to reinstall, probably with Loctite RED and properly torqued fasteners..  Now  what IS  the correct Pounds Feet recommended for the application and fasteners??   Maybe Barry at Josam’s knows and can tell you….the new system….must meet OEM specs….otherwise…..UGLY….

 

[cbr046]

Rather than 'good 'n tite' I figured on using a chart like this one from Fastenal - https://www.fastenal.com/content/merch_rules/images/fcom/content-library/Torque-Tension Reference Guide.pdf  Looks like 500 ft lbs will do it.  Under the coach there's not much leverage (no worries, it's at ride height then shimmed with wood) .  I haven't tried an impact wrench . . . . yet.  My hose probably isn't big enough for the wrench anyway.  Next week. 

The original bolts may have been Red Loctited, which is considered permanent and requires huge torques to break.  A Red bond needs to be broken with high heat first.  My little 1kW induction gun gets the metal smoking after 30 sec but even after 2 min won't turn the bolt red so I don't know how hot the bond got.  Maybe I should have gotten the 1.8kW model . . . .

As for re-apply with Red I'm not a fan, even if the fix is considered 'permanent'.  

I agree that underestimating torques of the new bolts could be catastrophic, not only for me but for those around me.  Allstate Mayhem I'm not!

To be continued . . . . .

- bob

 

 

[RoadTripper2084]

Not sure how your steering wheel works but on my rig I find it's far easier/more comfortable to control in strong crosswinds, for example, if the wheel is close to horizontal and my hands are resting at 10 and 2 o clock, vs nearly vertical as in your video. 

In decent conditions I usually drive with my left hand only, but I have the TRW steering box and almost no slack in the wheel.

[Cubflyer]

My drive today, first real trip with my new TRW steering box (replacing a leaky Shepard box) resulted in very little difference in the way my MH drives... there was maybe slightly less 'free play' movement in the steering wheel.  As I stated before, if you have to 'steer' your motor home straight down the road, you need suspension improvements.... these 8 baggers 'squirm' around under the coach.   

Ken