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Posted

So I’m trying to remove the trailer hitch from my motorhome and I can’t get the lock off. I’m not sure how to get the lock off do I push it in with the key turn it I’m not sure?. I push the key in but it won’t turn left or right so I’m not sure what I’m doing wrong I know it’s a simple lock but it’s kicking my butt. I was wondering if anyone know how these come off ? i’m wondering if there’s something stuck in the lock it’s keeping it from turning. Thanks for any help.

Don

2007 Monaco Dynasty 

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Posted

I tried spraying WD-40 in it and it’s the only key for that kind of lock that came with the motorhome. I push the key in but it won’t turn left or right so I’m not sure maybe it is the wrong key lol.

Posted

The key should turn to remove the head.  If it is not turning then try one or more of the solutions proposed.

Posted (edited)
13 hours ago, Gary 05 AMB DST said:

Is the hitch lock key the same style as the A/C access door?

Gary 05 AMB DST

Good point.  If it has large flats for thumb and finger it's for the body side panel for the AC condenser.   See pic

61lvNMpz4dL._SL1000_.jpg

If it has flats like a normal key it's for a lock. 

If there wasn't a rubber cover for the lock it probably has all sorts of grit in it.  WD-40 is basically kerosene, which isn't much as a lubricant.  I'd hit it with some high pressure parts / carb cleaner (be sure to wear eye protection) to clean it out then follow up with a real spray lubricant, maybe even a penetrating lubricant like PB Blaster / Kroil (which neither are as effective as a 50/50 acetone/ATF mix) . 

Once you start down the path of darkness (rock, big hammer+punch, torch, saw) it's a path that must be followed through.  There's no turning back down the road of destruction. 

- bob

 

Edited by cbr046
Guest Ray Davis
Posted

If that key will open anything else, then more than likely it's not the key for the hitch. IMHO

When we bought our coach, I had the same ordeal.  Instead of running myself crazy looking for the key I pretty quickly gave up and cut it off.

Posted

It almost looks like a number stamped on the cylinder, which should match the number on the key.  If not, and that is a number on the lock, a decent locksmith could make you a key.  But for less than $15, (the price of a new lock, with keys!), is the question. 

- bob

Posted

So I tried the brake cleaner trick still no luck so I’m just going to order a new one. It’s not worth the hassle when they are so cheap. I would like to know what the AC access door is?

 Thanks again gentlemen 

Don

Posted

I use a grade 8 long shoulder bolt with a locking nut instead. There's no breaking it off with a hammer and a potential thief would have to have 2 identical big wrenches and spend some time taking it off instead of one good hit with a sledgehammer. 

Posted
15 minutes ago, Gary 05 AMB DST said:

Ivan K, I read that grade 8 bolts are more brittle than others. They have a lower shear rate. A protentional weakness. Grade 5 are stronger.

Gary 05 AMB DST

I dont disagree, Gary, just don't know if there could ever be enough shear force to cause a problem with .625" bolt. This bolt has been there for at least 3 years and ~30k miles pulling a Hummer. I plan to replace it but still looking great. I would expect grade 5 to wear in the receiver holes and cause them to elongate with the eventual movement like the previous locking pin has. I may be be totally wrong.

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Posted
On 10/17/2022 at 10:11 AM, Donflem said:

I’m going to try the parts cleaning trick . Thanks for all the advice.

Don

2007 Dynasty 

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When you turn the key, the inner circle should pop out when it unlocks.  

 

I use one of these anti rattle devices as well.   Not too noticeable on coach, but when I towed my jeep behind my pick up, I could really tell the difference when this was installed.  

https://www.amazon.com/MaxxHaul-50023-Tightener-Stabilizer-Hitches/dp/B07JDD8L3H/ref=asc_df_B07JDD8L3H/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=343227722076&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1614327115867578216&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9031395&hvtargid=pla-693753947949&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=68750937003&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=343227722076&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1614327115867578216&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9031395&hvtargid=pla-693753947949

Posted
1 hour ago, windsorbill06 said:

My solution.  Use a 4” cutoff blade on a side grinder and cut it off.

next….here is a Hitch Tightener that our Van Williams endorsed.

Hitch Tightener for 1.25" and 2" Hitches LIBERRWAY 304 Stainless Steel Hitch Tightener Anti-Rattle Stabilizer Rust-Free Heavy Duty Lock Down Easy Installation Quiet https://a.co/d/jezB26x   If the link doesn’t work, use some of the description in the Amazon search box.  Compare it to the one recommended.  I can tell you that BOTH are superior to the round bar stock Roadmaster one.  But I own two of them….and they work.  This one supposedly is better.

i use a standard hitch pin in my MH.  I don’t put a lock on it.  BUT….IF I were super concerned about theft, I would drill out the hair pin clip and use a good Master Lock.  I have a Roadmaster baseplate.  It uses two standard hitch pins.  I drilled them out and lock the pins in place.  

i figure that getting off the hitch tightener will be a deterrent….but having a stock hitch pin with a lock is a whole lot less trouble and more reliable than the chincy locking tabs inside the head that grab the grooves.

MY OPINION.  others will vary. BUT, when I added the Roadmaster hitch tightener, my wife noticed the difference in the ride…and it has been used for 20K.  One comment.  Keep tightening, but don’t overtorque.  It might take a few thousand miles to get everything seated.  It did on mine.

Posted

That's right, don't overnighten but it kept stretching and me tightening until this happened to me. But for 10 bucks it did it's job for a good while. Maybe I get an other one and use both of the plates, hmm. Maybe bolts instead of the ubolt.

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Posted
On 10/17/2022 at 12:17 PM, Ivan K said:

I use a grade 8 long shoulder bolt with a locking nut instead. There's no breaking it off with a hammer and a potential thief would have to have 2 identical big wrenches and spend some time taking it off instead of one good hit with a sledgehammer. 

Great idea thanks.

 

On 10/17/2022 at 12:17 PM, Ivan K said:

I use a grade 8 long shoulder bolt with a locking nut instead. There's no breaking it off with a hammer and a potential thief would have to have 2 identical big wrenches and spend some time taking it off instead of one good hit with a sledgehammer. 

 

I just bought a new pair lock and hitch tightener. I’m going to cut off old lock and replace. Thanks for all the advice gentlemen.

Don

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