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So I’m trying to remove the trailer hitch from my motorhome and I can’t get the lock off. I’m not sure how to get the lock off do I push it in with the key turn it I’m not sure?. I push the key in but it won’t turn left or right so I’m not sure what I’m doing wrong I know it’s a simple lock but it’s kicking my butt. I was wondering if anyone know how these come off ? i’m wondering if there’s something stuck in the lock it’s keeping it from turning. Thanks for any help.

Don

2007 Monaco Dynasty 

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I tried spraying WD-40 in it and it’s the only key for that kind of lock that came with the motorhome. I push the key in but it won’t turn left or right so I’m not sure maybe it is the wrong key lol.

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13 hours ago, Gary 05 AMB DST said:

Is the hitch lock key the same style as the A/C access door?

Gary 05 AMB DST

Good point.  If it has large flats for thumb and finger it's for the body side panel for the AC condenser.   See pic

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If it has flats like a normal key it's for a lock. 

If there wasn't a rubber cover for the lock it probably has all sorts of grit in it.  WD-40 is basically kerosene, which isn't much as a lubricant.  I'd hit it with some high pressure parts / carb cleaner (be sure to wear eye protection) to clean it out then follow up with a real spray lubricant, maybe even a penetrating lubricant like PB Blaster / Kroil (which neither are as effective as a 50/50 acetone/ATF mix) . 

Once you start down the path of darkness (rock, big hammer+punch, torch, saw) it's a path that must be followed through.  There's no turning back down the road of destruction. 

- bob

 

Edited by cbr046
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If that key will open anything else, then more than likely it's not the key for the hitch. IMHO

When we bought our coach, I had the same ordeal.  Instead of running myself crazy looking for the key I pretty quickly gave up and cut it off.

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It almost looks like a number stamped on the cylinder, which should match the number on the key.  If not, and that is a number on the lock, a decent locksmith could make you a key.  But for less than $15, (the price of a new lock, with keys!), is the question. 

- bob

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So I tried the brake cleaner trick still no luck so I’m just going to order a new one. It’s not worth the hassle when they are so cheap. I would like to know what the AC access door is?

 Thanks again gentlemen 

Don

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I use a grade 8 long shoulder bolt with a locking nut instead. There's no breaking it off with a hammer and a potential thief would have to have 2 identical big wrenches and spend some time taking it off instead of one good hit with a sledgehammer. 

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15 minutes ago, Gary 05 AMB DST said:

Ivan K, I read that grade 8 bolts are more brittle than others. They have a lower shear rate. A protentional weakness. Grade 5 are stronger.

Gary 05 AMB DST

I dont disagree, Gary, just don't know if there could ever be enough shear force to cause a problem with .625" bolt. This bolt has been there for at least 3 years and ~30k miles pulling a Hummer. I plan to replace it but still looking great. I would expect grade 5 to wear in the receiver holes and cause them to elongate with the eventual movement like the previous locking pin has. I may be be totally wrong.

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On 10/17/2022 at 10:11 AM, Donflem said:

I’m going to try the parts cleaning trick . Thanks for all the advice.

Don

2007 Dynasty 

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When you turn the key, the inner circle should pop out when it unlocks.  

 

I use one of these anti rattle devices as well.   Not too noticeable on coach, but when I towed my jeep behind my pick up, I could really tell the difference when this was installed.  

https://www.amazon.com/MaxxHaul-50023-Tightener-Stabilizer-Hitches/dp/B07JDD8L3H/ref=asc_df_B07JDD8L3H/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=343227722076&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1614327115867578216&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9031395&hvtargid=pla-693753947949&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=68750937003&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=343227722076&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1614327115867578216&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9031395&hvtargid=pla-693753947949

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1 hour ago, windsorbill06 said:

My solution.  Use a 4” cutoff blade on a side grinder and cut it off.

next….here is a Hitch Tightener that our Van Williams endorsed.

Hitch Tightener for 1.25" and 2" Hitches LIBERRWAY 304 Stainless Steel Hitch Tightener Anti-Rattle Stabilizer Rust-Free Heavy Duty Lock Down Easy Installation Quiet https://a.co/d/jezB26x   If the link doesn’t work, use some of the description in the Amazon search box.  Compare it to the one recommended.  I can tell you that BOTH are superior to the round bar stock Roadmaster one.  But I own two of them….and they work.  This one supposedly is better.

i use a standard hitch pin in my MH.  I don’t put a lock on it.  BUT….IF I were super concerned about theft, I would drill out the hair pin clip and use a good Master Lock.  I have a Roadmaster baseplate.  It uses two standard hitch pins.  I drilled them out and lock the pins in place.  

i figure that getting off the hitch tightener will be a deterrent….but having a stock hitch pin with a lock is a whole lot less trouble and more reliable than the chincy locking tabs inside the head that grab the grooves.

MY OPINION.  others will vary. BUT, when I added the Roadmaster hitch tightener, my wife noticed the difference in the ride…and it has been used for 20K.  One comment.  Keep tightening, but don’t overtorque.  It might take a few thousand miles to get everything seated.  It did on mine.

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That's right, don't overnighten but it kept stretching and me tightening until this happened to me. But for 10 bucks it did it's job for a good while. Maybe I get an other one and use both of the plates, hmm. Maybe bolts instead of the ubolt.

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On 10/17/2022 at 12:17 PM, Ivan K said:

I use a grade 8 long shoulder bolt with a locking nut instead. There's no breaking it off with a hammer and a potential thief would have to have 2 identical big wrenches and spend some time taking it off instead of one good hit with a sledgehammer. 

Great idea thanks.

 

On 10/17/2022 at 12:17 PM, Ivan K said:

I use a grade 8 long shoulder bolt with a locking nut instead. There's no breaking it off with a hammer and a potential thief would have to have 2 identical big wrenches and spend some time taking it off instead of one good hit with a sledgehammer. 

 

I just bought a new pair lock and hitch tightener. I’m going to cut off old lock and replace. Thanks for all the advice gentlemen.

Don

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