Stop engine light on/erratic 2006 Dynasty issues

[Georgia Mike]

I am on a trip out west and was leaving Cheyenne KOA headed towards Glenwood springs in Colorado. When I started the engine in the morning, I got on the road for about 10 minutes and the stop engine light came on. It went off after about 2 minutes and never came on the entire 5 hour drive over the mountain on I-70 towards Moab. I read online that your coolant level being low might cause this, but I am skeptical because I checked the coolant level and it was a little above the minimum line. When I got to the campground here in Glenwood, I added some coolant just to be safe. I still have a long journey ahead of me. Do you think it’s some thing to worry about?

[nvrtoofast]

Curious about this. I've had a similar issue from time to time. I do not know the cause either. Typically on a cold start and a brief issue.

[klcdenver]

Try and get you a Scan D Gauge. This way you can see what the code was and make a better decision. You can probably pick one up at a local parts store or get it shipped in  next day. Much cheaper than going to shop to get your fault codes read.

[BradHend]

I agree.  I’d invest in a scan tool of some kind.  I got a crappy one off Amazon for like 200 bucks, it’s helped me a few times.  Just make sure it’s the “HD” version with the six and 9 pin adaptors.  
Sorry to hear of the troubles.   One more thing to worry about. Hopefully just a fluke for ya.  

As far as driving it…your call.  Check it over, monitor all systems like a hawk.  If it seems okay, 🤷‍♂️. Travel on.  
Put it this way, unfortunately it’ll rear its head at some point regardless if it was something immediate to worry about.  Make the best of it, just keep an eye and an ear open.  

[Frank McElroy]

I see you have a 2006 dynasty and I believe you likely have a Cummins 400 ISL engine.  To find out the real reason for the stop engine light, you need a code reader that can read both active and inactive codes.  Right now, replies are just guesses at common problems.  For example - low coolant - even though you have plenty of coolant it doesn't mean the low coolant sensor is working.  Same for oil pressure.  Same for turbo actuator. Same for throttle position sensor. And the list goes on and on.  Report back with the trouble code number(s) and we can help.

[Tom Cherry]

10 hours ago, klcdenver said:

Try and get you a Scan D Gauge. This way you can see what the code was and make a better decision. You can probably pick one up at a local parts store or get it shipped in  next day. Much cheaper than going to shop to get your fault codes read.

Finding the correct codes and then having sufficient information to troubleshoot and repair are two totally different things.  I was under the impression that getting your engine scanned using the Cummins Insite software was a relatively simple procedure and that should include the data or history file on the ECM.  Then, as Frank pointed out, you know the exact source of the STOP light and also if there have been past occurrences as well as a “wellness check” of the engine.

Typically, i thought it was less than an hour’s shop time and less than the cost of a reader.  The Insite software is used by several here and any reputable or “Cummins” shop or independent Garage MUST have it as just “fixing things” by throwing parts at a ghost is foolhardy.

If you get a quote or good estimate, then that can be reviewed and analyzed and an opinion given.  Just don’t approve any repairs until you post what is found…

Just my 2 cents….now where is that little “C/“ key?  LOL…

[Georgia Mike]

10 hours ago, Frank McElroy said:

I see you have a 2006 dynasty and I believe you likely have a Cummins 400 ISL engine.  To find out the real reason for the stop engine light, you need a code reader that can read both active and inactive codes.  Right now, replies are just guesses at common problems.  For example - low coolant - even though you have plenty of coolant it doesn't mean the low coolant sensor is working.  Same for oil pressure.  Same for turbo actuator. Same for throttle position sensor. And the list goes on and on.  Report back with the trouble code number(s) and we can help.

What code reader could I purchase that isn’t to expensive that could read active and inactive codes? I am leaving in a few hours to Moab and there is a Napa store and O Riley’s that I can see. We are going to be there 5 days so it’s possible I could order from Amazon. Not sure how fast they deliver our here.  As a side note I’m sure you are all familiar with the I-70 route west of Denver through the Eisenhower tunnel. I monitored all the temperatures on the almost 6 hour drive and it preformed great. Engine never got above 190 degrees and transmission never got above 195 climbing the steep grades.

[BradHend]

@Georgia Mike I’m now curious about your engine coolant temperature.  Yours actually never gets above 190?  
That makes we wonder about mine now because it will start the cycle usually around 205 under normal steady driving, then cools back down until about 170-180, heats back up and repeat.  Even on low grade hills it’s not uncommon for me to see 210-214.  If I recall correctly the thermostat for my engine according to quick serve was for 190.  Makes me wonder if I should be getting one that trips sooner. 

Basically anytime I’m pushin’ harder than normal I’ve got a pretty close eye on the Bluefire keeping an eye on the coolant temperature so I know if I should be letting off a bit or not. 😎

[Frank McElroy]

21 minutes ago, BradHend said:

@Georgia Mike I’m now curious about your engine coolant temperature.  Yours actually never gets above 190?  
That makes we wonder about mine now because it will start the cycle usually around 205 under normal steady driving, then cools back down until about 170-180, heats back up and repeat.  Even on low grade hills it’s not uncommon for me to see 210-214.  If I recall correctly the thermostat for my engine according to quick serve was for 190.  Makes me wonder if I should be getting one that trips sooner. 

Basically anytime I’m pushin’ harder than normal I’ve got a pretty close eye on the Bluefire keeping an eye on the coolant temperature so I know if I should be letting off a bit or not. 😎

I'd first take a really close look to be sure all areas (including the corners) of your radiator stack are clean. When climbing grades are you running at engine RPM for max HP or are you climbing at max throttle and letting the trans shift?

[TommyL]

Lost a rad cap ( never fit right) temp started climbing. Stopped, what a mess. Filled with water,made it home. Flushed, new coolant, 16 lb. cap ,but it runs a little warmer ever since, engine 202, Tran . 205. Normal load ,maybe new thermostat will help? Cleaned cooling stack as best as possible, without pulling condenser, hyd cooler and CAC to get to Rad. Summer heat coming, appreciate any adult supervision,

08 camelot isl 400 side radiator 

[Georgia Mike]

I drove from Glenwood Springs to Moab yesterday and no sign of the stop engine light. I have shopped around and found the Blue fire system does both both active and inactive codes. If anyone has this system is it good for reading codes? I like the fact that I can have the extra gauges and that it’s not just a code reader. I can’t find any information if the Scan gauge reads both active and inactive codes.
As far as engine and transmission temperatures one thing I did when I first got my Dynasty was change from the electronic fan control to the mechanical wax valve from Source engineering. I did add a hydraulic needle valve so that fan would come on at a slow speed until it got up to temperature for the ac. I think the mechanical wax valve keeps the engine cooler by running the fan wide open when the temperature gets about 190. When running normal grades it stays around 178-182 all the time. 
So again does anyone that has the BlueFire system like it for reading codes?

[cbr046]

12 hours ago, BradHend said:

@Georgia Mike I’m now curious about your engine coolant temperature.  Yours actually never gets above 190?  
That makes we wonder about mine now because it will start the cycle usually around 205 under normal steady driving, then cools back down until about 170-180, heats back up and repeat.  Even on low grade hills it’s not uncommon for me to see 210-214.  If I recall correctly the thermostat for my engine according to quick serve was for 190.  Makes me wonder if I should be getting one that trips sooner. 

Basically anytime I’m pushin’ harder than normal I’ve got a pretty close eye on the Bluefire keeping an eye on the coolant temperature so I know if I should be letting off a bit or not. 😎

Mine started running a bit warmer than normal running up long grades.  The fan side of the radiator looked pretty nasty so I sprayed it with Simple Green, let it sit then hosed it yesterday.  Getting in there was a real trick.  Had to spray blindly. 

- bob

[Ivan K]

Very long shot but if you still had a 6 pin diag connector, I carry insite/inline6 setup for it and will be roaming southern Utah for a while. But I know nothing about bluefire code reading ability.

[Robert U]

The first thing I would do is change the thermostat , water pump and radiator cap. Mine came with a 7lb cap.

I had problems with the warning light coming on while going up hills even though the temp gauge was only about 205 degrees. Turns out there are 2 water temperature sensors , one for the gauge on dash and one for the ecm. Replaced the one for the ecm and no more problems.

Bob U 2000 Dip ISC8.3

[Ivylog]

Mike, the dash temp gauges could be off but having both in that range suggests they are fairly accurate. My 04 Dynasty would run hotter than that on long climbs, geared down and 1800 rpms.

By now, I wouldn’t worry about the past stop light.

[Yoaks5]

23 hours ago, Georgia Mike said:

I have shopped around and found the Blue fire system does both both active and inactive codes. If anyone has this system is it good for reading codes?

I have the bluefire system and mine did show an active code when I was having trouble with my charging. So based on that I think it works for active codes but my inactive code page is blank. 

[Georgia Mike]

Thanks Kevin, I have been looking at getting the BlueFire system for a while. I had Silver leaf on my previous coach and liked it but I like the fact the BlueFire is wireless. It says on there website that it does both active and inactive codes so hopefully it will. As for now since I have driven many miles and it hasn’t come up again I think I will take Dick’s advice and just forget  about it for now and wait till I get back in a few weeks and see what I want to do. 
As far as reading engine and transmission temperatures I don’t really look at the gauges I look at the Aladdin system for all my temperatures. Jim at Source Engineering told me that it’s very accurate so that’s what I go by.