Knight 40 PLQ Posted May 19 Share Posted May 19 Good morning, the 2006 Norcold is showing signs of age, it's in a 2006 Monaco Knight with the furnace below, any suggestions will be appreciated. One that fits without a lot of modifications, thanks Tim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MurrayD Posted May 19 Share Posted May 19 I went with the Fisher & Paykal, it’s pricey but the more commonly used Samsung is just not reliable. If your fridge fails it’s not as simple as sliding a new one in like at home, so I chose the best available. It’s been 3 years and have had zero issues, it runs fine on the MSW inverter. I easily lowered the floor above the furnace a little just to make it easier for the wife to reach the top shelf, but it would fit without doing that. Don’t forget to rewire the GFCI receptacle in the bathroom to put the fridge wires on the line side, you don’t want a fridge on a ground fault circuit. I had some stainless steel angles fabbed up at my local metal supermarket to finish out the trim. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
birdshill123 Posted May 19 Share Posted May 19 Nice clean install. Murray, why can't the fridge be on a gfci? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MurrayD Posted May 19 Share Posted May 19 The NEC has stipulated in the code that refrigerators are not permitted to be on GFCI. I’m not sure of the reasoning, but I know ice makers can cause nuisance tripping, which is why your Norcold had a non GFCI receptacle for the ice maker. Nuisance tripping for a compressor will cause damage to it, not to mention food spoiling if you don’t notice the GFCI has been tripped. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacwjames Posted May 19 Share Posted May 19 I got lucky and found a Samsung RF18 on clearance at Lowes for $865 and decided to buy. Actually used it in the house we were building until we got the standard size when the house was finished. I knew sooner or later the Norcold would fail and that I could use the Samsung there. In 2018 the Norcold failed and I installed the Samsung in 2019. Didn't get a lot of use until after Covid was over but since then have used it for ~2 years of use without a problem. In 2021 I was SD, outside temps got to 105F but the Samsung dropped ice all day long. Wife just fired it up to get ready to go on a trip, it made almost a full tray of ice in about 2 days. Not bad and it is cold and holds temps well. I know there have been reports of the Samsung failing, this is more associated with full size residential units. But there have several report in RV use. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Cherry Posted May 19 Share Posted May 19 2 hours ago, MurrayD said: The NEC has stipulated in the code that refrigerators are not permitted to be on GFCI. I’m not sure of the reasoning, but I know ice makers can cause nuisance tripping, which is why your Norcold had a non GFCI receptacle for the ice maker. Nuisance tripping for a compressor will cause damage to it, not to mention food spoiling if you don’t notice the GFCI has been tripped. One of our members is a code fanatic. He posted a year or so back that the NEW "NEC" required GFCI. I saw the post...could not get the hard copy. I TOTALLY agree with you. From a practical standpoint and being friends for 30 odd years with a licensed plumbing and electrical contractor...his GFCI tales totally say what I have been preaching. I recommend, and 90% of the Monaco's are wired this way, removing the Icemaker line from the LOAD side of the GFCI. The load usually has TWO lines. One for the CODE REQUIRED GFCI and the other for the REST of the stuff. TV and HEC and Icemaker and such. That is a recipe for disaster...you put in a NEW (they get old) GFCI. Determine that ALL the CODE required outlets are protected...and then move the ICEMAKER to line. There is NO discussion, so I assume it was well known that the Samsung RF18 does NOT like backdoor temps below freezing. ALl the insulation on the side walls has to be removed for air circulation...then insulate the bottom rear cover (your VENT and if louvers in the frame...THEM. Same for the top side vent or if a rooftop vent...stuff with Fiberglass batt insulation. Then the air circulating around the RF18 is CONDITIONED from the inside. You no LONGER have the CO2 issue...so no need for the Norcold insulation. Great job... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad Loehr Posted May 19 Share Posted May 19 By any chance have you checked with Norcold if there is an outstanding recall on your fridge? I have a Norcold 1200RIM with ice maker and the original owner did not know there was a recall on the unit. Now 19 years later I get a new cooling unit installed for free. https://www.nhtsa.gov/equipment-detail/NORCOLD/REFRIGERATOR/a__58218#recalls To verify the recall you will need to email Norcold with the cooling unit and fridge unit serial numbers. Then have a certified Norcold dealer tech R & R the cooling unit. I have my recall replacement ordered and will be installed soon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hex_nut Posted May 19 Share Posted May 19 A lot depends on the condition of your Norcold. If the cabinet is in good condition (doors, seals, hinges, etc...), I would recommend having a 12 volt DC compressor unit installed in it. If your cabinet is worn out, then I would look into replacing it with a 12 volt DC compressor complete unit. I installed a Samsung RF18 about 6 years ago and have been happy with it. However, the 12 volt DC compressor units were not readily available then. If I had to do it over, I would seriously consider avoiding the double inverting, converting losses of powering a 120 volt AC residential unit from 12 volt batteries. I have not personally used a 12 volt DC compressor unit, but I have been impressed by the technology and the good reviews. I have heard good things about JCRefigeration units, but have no personal experience with them. Much research is recommended. Good luck. Richard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timaz996 Posted May 20 Share Posted May 20 8 hours ago, MurrayD said: I went with the Fisher & Paykal, it’s pricey but the more commonly used Samsung is just not reliable. If your fridge fails it’s not as simple as sliding a new one in like at home, so I chose the best available. It’s been 3 years and have had zero issues, it runs fine on the MSW inverter. I easily lowered the floor above the furnace a little just to make it easier for the wife to reach the top shelf, but it would fit without doing that. Don’t forget to rewire the GFCI receptacle in the bathroom to put the fridge wires on the line side, you don’t want a fridge on a ground fault circuit. I had some stainless steel angles fabbed up at my local metal supermarket to finish out the trim. What model FP fridge did you get? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joefromperry Posted May 20 Share Posted May 20 (edited) I did not want to lose the propane option, so I went with JC Refrigeration's conversion options; there are a few, including compressors and the propane/electric option. JC-Refrigeration.com Edited May 20 by joefromperry 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MurrayD Posted May 20 Share Posted May 20 The model number is RF170ADX4 N Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gweedo Posted May 20 Share Posted May 20 I installed the samsung RF18 not quite two years ago. I didn't have the heater to condend with, I added a couple 3/4 plywood on the bottom to secure with several large screws, slipped right in. Sealed off the wall vents, it only pulls 2-amps crazy, very cold and freezes like a rock. I keep the ice maker off. Made the plug 110 by changing the feed wire in the GFI. Inverter runs it no problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CAT Stephen Posted May 20 Share Posted May 20 On 5/19/2024 at 12:06 PM, Knight 40 PLQ said: Good morning, the 2006 Norcold is showing signs of age, it's in a 2006 Monaco Knight with the furnace below, any suggestions will be appreciated. One that fits without a lot of modifications, thanks Tim @Knight 40 PLQ, It depends on what you are looking for. So, here are questions for you: - Do you want to continue the option of running on propane? - Can you describe how your Norcold is showing signs of age? - Are you interested in changing to a residential refrigerator? (This path will requires special modifications) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timaz996 Posted May 26 Share Posted May 26 (edited) MODERATOR EDIT. Was merged with a current topic discussing alternative refrigerators. END of Edit. Does anyone have the JC Refrigeration 19 CF 12volt Unit in their coach? If so, how do you like it? Specs Black fridge box with Stainless Steel Doors LED lighting – Find exactly what you’ve been looking for under crisp, clear lighting Top controls with digital display of the fridge and freezer temperature settings The Fridge section has 3 glass shelves and 2 crisper drawers with 11.7 cubic ft. The Freezer has 2 drawers, with baskets, with 6.7 cubic ft. Dual compressor cooling system Average Amp Draw of 71 watts (5.9 amps at 12 volts) Unit is charged with R134A freon (non-explosive freon) Cabinet opening minimum dimensions 33″ width x 73″ height*** Fridge box dimensions 33w X 28.8d X 72″h or 25″ deep without doors 2-year limited warranty Made in the USA ***The cabinet opening height can be as low as 72″ if the perimeter between the fridge sides and top and cabinet are sealed off with insulation and the back vents are left open so the compressors can breathe thru the outside vents. Edited May 26 by Tom Cherry Merged into current to Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Cherry Posted May 26 Share Posted May 26 Merged the above. Per guidelines, a search is required. …. here is a search result of such… https://www.monacoers.org/search/?&q=JC refrigeration&quick=1&search_and_or=and&sortby=relevancy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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