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Pampero
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My alternator stopped working yesterday; on top of that, I have no rpm signal (coming from alternator) but all my gauges are stuck where they were

Rpm at 300 rpm, speed at 0, fuel at what is was, and so on. with the exception of the oil pressure that starts at 80 lbs and goes to 120+ (out of the ball field) and it may go to 60 lbs at idle.

Voltage is at 12.5 all the time.

Here are the weird things is happening. The Park Brake light indicator comes on when the parking brake is pushed down (activated) so it is working backwards.

The battery relay cut off is getting really hot, new just installed: WHITE RODGERS 70-902 CONTACTOR, SPST-NO, 12VDC, 80A, BRACKET.

Power at the positive side of the alternator is supplied all the time by the battery isolator, (new). What makes feed the alternator while the engine is not running?

I have many more questions than answers.

The alternator was installed 3 weeks ago and it was working fine and all of the sudden I lost everything.

Besides the gauges, and the fact that is not charging, everything else seems fine.

I will like to get more info on schematics.

Anyone knows what is that part on my electrical bay? I know is corroded, I had water coming in through the seal of the right rear window. History for another topic.

Thank you

20200807_190727[1].jpg

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Engine RPM does not have anything to do with alternator.  That comes from the Engine ECU instead.

The box looks like a circuit breaker. 

Take a picture and mark all wires to the batteries. 

Disconnect the shore power.  Turn off the Generator.

Disconnect the negative battery lead to the chassis

Disconnect the positive battery leads.

Then unscrew the two nuts that hold the cables to the circuit breaker.

Clean the cables with a wire brush.

Look at the circuit breaker to get the amperage value.  Buy a new one from an auto parts store and reinstall.  Cover the connectors with some anti corrosion gel (from auto parts store).

Take a look at all the cubicles to find more cables in bad shape.  Clean them all now that the power is all down.  This step takes the longest by far.

Put the battery cables back on in reverse order that they were removed.

See if that helps.

Edited by DavidL
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6 hours ago, DavidL said:

Engine RPM does not have anything to do with alternator.  That comes from the Engine ECU instead.

The box looks like a circuit breaker. 

Take a picture and mark all wires to the batteries. 

Disconnect the shore power.  Turn off the Generator.

Disconnect the negative battery lead to the chassis

Disconnect the positive battery leads.

Then unscrew the two nuts that hold the cables to the circuit breaker.

Clean the cables with a wire brush.

Look at the circuit breaker to get the amperage value.  Buy a new one from an auto parts store and reinstall.  Cover the connectors with some anti corrosion gel (from auto parts store).

Take a look at all the cubicles to find more cables in bad shape.  Clean them all now that the power is all down.  This step takes the longest by far.

Put the battery cables back on in reverse order that they were removed.

See if that helps.

On older Monaco's like he has the alternator did have something to do with the tachometer.

 

7 hours ago, Pampero said:

My alternator stopped working yesterday; on top of that, I have no rpm signal (coming from alternator) but all my gauges are stuck where they were

Rpm at 300 rpm, speed at 0, fuel at what is was, and so on. with the exception of the oil pressure that starts at 80 lbs and goes to 120+ (out of the ball field) and it may go to 60 lbs at idle.

Voltage is at 12.5 all the time.

Here are the weird things is happening. The Park Brake light indicator comes on when the parking brake is pushed down (activated) so it is working backwards.

The battery relay cut off is getting really hot, new just installed: WHITE RODGERS 70-902 CONTACTOR, SPST-NO, 12VDC, 80A, BRACKET.

Power at the positive side of the alternator is supplied all the time by the battery isolator, (new). What makes feed the alternator while the engine is not running?

I have many more questions than answers.

The alternator was installed 3 weeks ago and it was working fine and all of the sudden I lost everything.

Besides the gauges, and the fact that is not charging, everything else seems fine.

I will like to get more info on schematics.

Anyone knows what is that part on my electrical bay? I know is corroded, I had water coming in through the seal of the right rear window. History for another topic.

Thank you

20200807_190727[1].jpg

I learned years ago to fix one thing at a time. Don't be confused by weird things going on until you get the charging system working again. It sounds like the alternator or the diode isolator has failed. Get a voltmeter and measure across the chassis batteries while the engine is running. If you don't have at least 13 volts then the alternator is not charging. On your vintage of coach I believe they used a diode isolator and that could also be the problem.

 

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I guess I take the path of least resistance.

Back in 2014 my alternator light came on.  Didn't even try to overthink the problem.  Took the alternator off and had it rebuilt for $185, reinstalled and it's still working today. 

If you try to replace make sure you get a compatible alternator with the Duvac system, the wiring on other alternators is different.  You can use a none Duvac alternator but will have to use a different wiring scheme.

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Your picture is of a common circuit breaker which do go bad.  Make sure your replacement is the same size etc. They also come without the screw holes so be sure to get one with them or you'll be using a zip tie to keep it secured.  I'd spray that connection liberally with PB Blaster and let it sit for a day, then blast it again.  Those bolts will most likely spin off when you attempt to remove the nuts. They're pretty corroded. Also, the yellow connector in the foreground appears to be burnt unless that's just the picture. You may have lots of other things going on besides your alternator, but it does sound like your 'mechanic' might have steered you in the wrong direction on your replacement.....Dennis

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Your tach is getting signal from stator of the alternator. Check connections on its back side. Also a connector for the duvac, relay and tach wires that should be close to it.  Unless there is a physical connection issue, your alternator quit. I had that same thing happen. Rebuild it or replace with exact same part number. Mine had just a visibly broken wire between the collector ring and rotor winding and was easy to fix after taking it apart. I was on the road trip when it happened and had to make it to our next stop. Jumped house to chassis batteries and kept going with generator running until I could fix the alternator. Most of your other problems are likely just symptoms. Oil pressure gauge is likely fed from a sender that might be bad but not used by the ECM. I would leave it alone until your power is restored to the cluster and see if it corrects itself. I just replaced ours recently while changing oil too because it tried to go around the corner. ECM is using a different sender. If you had scangauge or similar, you would see the ECM readings.

Check the chassis battery for correct voltage, it feeds the ECM. Your rusted breaker ( whatever it is for) for continuity and replace if bad or when possible if still working.

Your solid state battery isolator should not backfeed the alternator but could show voltage on the center post if the alternator end of the connection is open, be it connection or alternator fault. Eventually check the alt relay, ours was melted but not causing problems other than not signaling when the failure happened.

Enjoy the adventure, it's not gonna be that bad at the end.

 

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Kind of a recap of what's been said.  First, you model does get its Tach signal from the Alternator.  Monaco used specific alternators to provide "extra" features.  That is why it is so important to either rebuild or replace with EXACTLY the same alternator - otherwise you'll have some rewiring to do.  Specifically, the Tach receives it's signal from a winding inside the alternator.  The faster the engine turns, the higher the voltage on that single winding.  This is internal to the alternator before all the windings are combined, and then regulated.  Another "feature" Monaco used is the Duvac.  This allows the alternator to sense the battery voltage remotely.  In our case, this means after the battery isolator which affects the battery voltage.  So, the alternator regulates voltage after the isolator.  Most alternators will regulate at the output of the alternator (either internally or externally).  This would be the incorrect voltage if an isolator is used.  If you are reading voltage on the center terminal (Alternator terminal) of the isolator either the isolator is shorted, or the alternator has shorted diodes, or both.  

To help in troubleshooting, when the alternator was replaced, was the cause of damage investigated and repaired.  A common cause of alternator replacement is due to the isolator shorting.  A cause of the isolator shorting is often the batteries.  Either the batteries develop a shorted cell, reducing the voltage of the battery, requiring the voltage regulator to increase output of the alternator, often above maximum to "charge" the low battery.  Besides causing problems for the alternator, this often will cause more than design current to flow through the battery isolator, causing it to fail.  Most of the isolators are rated at 200 Amps, while alternators are 160 Amps or sometimes 200 Amps.  BUT, that isolator rating is for both sets of batteries.   That is, 100 Amps maximum to house and 100 Amps maximum to chassis.  If one of the banks attempts to draw more than the 100 Amps, the isolater is damaged.  So, why did more current flow through the isolator?  Bad Battery(s)?  Or a short somewhere?  It sounds like since the battery cutoff switch is getting hot that that switch is defective.  It could be loose connections on the switch itself, but those switches are also prone to failure of the contacts.  That is not likely to cause your excess current flow though.  

As stated above, that device in the picture is a Circuit Breaker.   When they fail, it is usually an open (on current flows).  But it could fail closed, which would remove protection from that circuit, but it would only be a problem if that circuit also had a problem causing it to draw excessive current.  

Regarding the guages, I can't answer, but I can say that IF something caused the old alternator to run at full output, it could have reached over 18 volts DC.  I suspect that high voltage would not play well with the ECM, TCM, and other electronics.   Also, the incorrect alternator, or more likely, an alternator (correct or not) incorrectly wired (because the mech/tech didn't understand how Monaco implemented the additional "features") could also cause damage to other electronics. 

It is interesting that no where did you mention getting an ALT FAIL (alternator failure) light.  I wonder if someone also disconnected that "feature" at some point in time?

 

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Thank you for all your replies.

This is what I am standing as up today.

The reason why you see corrosion on the circuit breaker is because I had a water leak on the right rear window. The damages were extensive and expensive, the whole side was replaced.
When I picked up my RV the alternator went and the "same" type of alternator was installed along with the battery cut off relay.
Last Thursday I lost all my gauges and the alternator stopped charging.
Saturday I found out that I don't have ignition signal to the alternator. If I supply power to the alternator ignition input, the alternator is charging. I cannot find a diagram so I can trace back that wire. It has to be a relay in the middle, I doubt they just ran a single wire from the ignition switch.I have voltage at the alternator without the engine running. I believe the smaller heavy wire coming out of the battery isolator on the right in the attached picture is the alternator cable that goes to that circuit breaker. But the way the cable is connected right now it will feed the alternator all the time. If I am not mistaken the chassis batteries and the alternator are connected all the time with this setup.

I din't check if the alternator is outputting voltage to the tachometer or not, I will check it today, but my voltmeter is on zero, all other gauges are stopped in the time when all this happen.

So I need to correct one thing at the time, and find the ignition signal source is my first priority.

Thanks

20200808_181405[1].jpg

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15 minutes ago, jacwjames said:

On my coach there is a fuse labeled Duvac in the passenger side rear electrical bay.  This may be the feed you are looking for.

I will check this morning. thank you.
I installed an Duvac alternator that are sold by AJ Electric, and Jim Ferrari is been helping me to try to figure what is happening.
Just to clarify, My coach is a 2000 Windsor and even though I have a partial wiring diagram, does not show how the ignition signal gets to the alternator. 

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58 minutes ago, jacwjames said:

Not sure how close this is but here is a Chassis wiring diagram fro my coach. 

It will show the wiring but not the routing. 

When you first open this file and zoom in it will be blurry.  Hit Ctrl 5 and it will clear up.

2002 Windsor Chassis Wiring Diagram.pdf 182.98 kB · 0 downloads

This is great, Accordingly with this diagram the schmuck that installed the alternator it wired it wrong.

Can you please enlarge the area around the alternator and send it to me?

Thanks so much

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What I normally do it zoom into the area I am interested in and then Print this to a PDF and save it file in my library of information I keep on my coach.  I can then print it on hard copy.   In this case the large file would not let me zoom and print but I could take a snap shot, paste it onto a word document and then save to PDF.  Here is a copy.

Altenator wiring.pdf

When my alternator failed I made sure to label each of the wires, it was in cramped quarters, hard to it.   I shut off both the house and the chassis battery disconnects but I also found that solar was back feeding.  I was still getting voltage so I pulled the solar fuses.  

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I cannot tell if it has been established that you have an exact replacement alternator, or rebuilt your existing alternator.  As stated hundreds of times in this forum, if you have an older coach with a DUVAC system, doing anything other than rebuilding your existing alternator is asking for trouble.  But a huge amount of trouble can be eliminated by replacing the Solid State Isolator, battery boost solenoid, and auxiliary engine battery charger with the Blue Sea ML-ACR, which combines the functions of all three.  Once the Solid State Isolator is gone, there are many suitable choices for generic alternators.  For your vintage coach, choose an alternator with a Tachometer Output.

Search the forum for ML-ACR.  Paul Whittle was the first to adopt this system.  Myself and several others have done so now.

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1 hour ago, vanwill52 said:

I cannot tell if it has been established that you have an exact replacement alternator, or rebuilt your existing alternator.  As stated hundreds of times in this forum, if you have an older coach with a DUVAC system, doing anything other than rebuilding your existing alternator is asking for trouble.  But a huge amount of trouble can be eliminated by replacing the Solid State Isolator, battery boost solenoid, and auxiliary engine battery charger with the Blue Sea ML-ACR, which combines the functions of all three.  Once the Solid State Isolator is gone, there are many suitable choices for generic alternators.  For your vintage coach, choose an alternator with a Tachometer Output.

Search the forum for ML-ACR.  Paul Whittle was the first to adopt this system.  Myself and several others have done so now.

If I jump (provide power) to the ignition the alternator is charging. So at this point I have to assume that the alternator is charging. Saying that, Jim provided with a helpful information

I want to clarify couple thing: I provided the alternator to the repair facility that was doing "Body Repairs"; I DID NOT installed it. It was working (charging) for few weeks.

When they replaced the alternator, they also replaced the "Battery Cut off Relay" and the "checked" (whatever that means) the Battery Isolator Relay. Now I am question everything they did. I have Battery Voltage at the back of the alternator, that is not the alternator fault, but the isolator that is not switching. So I toke the time to do a diagram (attached) and I found out that the way the wiring is connected it provides voltage all the time to the alternator. I color the chassis wires Red and Domestic wire red so there is no confusion.

I am welcome to opinions.

As per your suggestion of installing a Delco Remy alternator, I would have done it, if I had the coach in my possession and/or I would trust an installer.
I live in New York, my coach was in Indiana, and this people screwed my RV and they were doing what they claim is their specialty; they did install the alternator and I have to guide them how to wire it, even though they toke it off; and for the looks of what I do see, they manage to screw this too.

Wiring Bay1.pdf

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I doubt your 2000 model coach came with the Battery Isolator Relay.  All I've ever seen had a Solid State Isolator, hence the need for the DUVAC voltage-sensing circuit in the alternator.  The ML-ACR is still a viable option for you.  It still would eliminate the Battery Boost Solenoid and the Lambert engine battery charger.  And it is infinitely simpler.  Magnetically latched--draws almost no power in either position.

Installing the ML-ACR does not directly address your problems, but it might solve them just due to mis-wiring by your previous mechanics.  It is a simple, reliable device with a guarantee that reads, "We stand behind this product for as long as you own it."  https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-Automatic-Charging/dp/B001VIXLRO/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwvb75BRD1ARIsAP6Lcqv3lHjnmzh6PVTnEydgwMCC6CtdHS30euwYC47f_VSX5XdPQVuQTTcaAh-ZEALw_wcB&hvadid=178127936793&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9010054&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=799669173909148167&hvtargid=kwd-143304726501&hydadcr=9436_9900778&keywords=blue+sea+ml-acr&qid=1597002505&sr=8-1&tag=googhydr-20

About $175 on Amazon

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Van

In the wiring diagram he created he is showing a Intellitec 00-00629-120 isolator relay so he may have one

My 2002 Windsor actually has the BIRD 00-00366-00 so I guess it is possible he has some sort of relay. 

I have seen other threads on the ML-ACR and if I ever had problems with my current system I would definitely look at installing.  Some of these upgrades are intimidating, even though I consider myself above average it would cause me some anxiety thinking about it.

 

 

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Jim, one of the things so appealing to me about the ML-ACR upgrade is that it is soooo simple.  Attach the charging lead from your alternator and a positive cable from your engine battery to ONE lug of the ML-ACR, and attach a positive battery cable from the coach batteries to the OTHER lug of the ML-ACR.  If you do NOTHING else other than attach two small wires to give the ML-ACR power, it will function as intended...if it senses charging voltage from ANY source, it will connect both battery banks together and charge them both (as long as the engine battery voltage has risen high enough to indicate it is almost fully charged).  Even without adding the remote switch (which fits directly into the cavity the previous Battery Boost switch fit into) it functions as it should.  You can LOOK at it to tell if it has both battery banks connected or not.  If you add the remote switch, you can FORCE the device to either CONNECT the two battery banks together, or FORCE the device to DISCONNECT them.  It is everything the ridiculously complicated and trouble-prone IRD and BIRD systems should have been.  And even without adding the remote switch you can MANUALLY force the two battery banks to be connected or disconnected.  Great device!!  Thank you, Paul Whittle!

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Thank you for all your replies.

My alternator is working, kind of. And please I will not change the alternator or modify anything. My problem is not the battery isolator .

In MY coach, the positive cable FROM the alternator, and I say FROM because that is how the current should flow, is getting BV (battery voltage) directly from the chassis battery; at this point I don't know if Monaco installed a diode inline or not.

My problems are two, and most likely are related. At the alternator there is TWO wires that connects to the alternator, both have inline fuses, one connects to the accessory voltage  post that supplies RPM signal and also, I believe to the other gauges, and the other wire goes to the Ignition input, this one is totally dead, nothing happen there.

But the first one, that supplies AV (alternator voltage) to the gauges is shorted out. The fuse blows every time I supply voltage to it.

So where is the short and how I trace it back without a circuit schematic?

I will keep you post it

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1 hour ago, Pampero said:

I just spent one hour on the phone with Monaco technical support with no avail.

Very frustrating.

 

I am surprised that no one has mentioned the advice that has been a mainstay for years.  IF you alternator was a Leece Neville, then the most reliable and the most cost effective approach is to REBUILD IT.  Now when it is rebuilt, find a shop that you trust and do NOT let them put in any aftermarket parts.  You need OEM LN Parts.  In addition, assuming (and I don't know by its age) that is had DIODES.....do not let them test and say.  LOOKS OK.  Whilst they are in there, they need to replace the Diodes as well.

Many folks, over the last 11 years have had the same issues that you have.  SOME have lucked out and found a tech that understood.  MORE often, the end result was that they purchased a Guaranteed to work (according to the parts guy's computer) and it NEVER DID.  That has been the adage since I joined in 2009.

IF you have (you may have had to supply the LN as a core) the original or if you can GET IT BACK....DO SO.  Have it rebuilt.  YOU might be able to get someone with a similar MH to shoot you a picture of the wiring on their coach and then restore it.

NOW....I have not read every post about every alternator problem over the years....only 90% of them.  SOME alternators WILL WORK....but the tech needs to understand it and most do NOT.

If you have the buildsheet for your MH, you MIGHT find the original LN PN and SN so you can call them.  They will walk you through HOW it is supposed to be installed.  Monaco may have done a lot of things wrong, but they finally DID figure out how to make their charging system work.

Realize that this may not be what you want to hear....but the sad reality is that many folks have had to purchase a NEW LN (same PN) as they had before and then find a tech that could install it and terminate it correctly.  A LOT Of money has been "lost" due to fritzing around with a supposedly "GUARANTEED" Alternator....and there has been some damage as well.

BTW, the REV techs have no earthly idea of how Monaco wired the 2000 or even the 2009 MH's.  IF they can find the prints, they will be lucky.  Navistar TRIED to keep the old techs but when REV took over, they were put out to pasture.  Only the electrical shops near Eugene, OR (assuming you have an Oregon MH) or the Elkhart electrical shops know HOW to really replace an alternator.  Sad but true.  

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1 hour ago, Tom Cherry said:

I am surprised that no one has mentioned the advice that has been a mainstay for years.  IF you alternator was a Leece Neville, then the most reliable and the most cost effective approach is to REBUILD IT.  Now when it is rebuilt, find a shop that you trust and do NOT let them put in any aftermarket parts.  You need OEM LN Parts.  In addition, assuming (and I don't know by its age) that is had DIODES.....do not let them test and say.  LOOKS OK.  Whilst they are in there, they need to replace the Diodes as well.

Many folks, over the last 11 years have had the same issues that you have.  SOME have lucked out and found a tech that understood.  MORE often, the end result was that they purchased a Guaranteed to work (according to the parts guy's computer) and it NEVER DID.  That has been the adage since I joined in 2009.

IF you have (you may have had to supply the LN as a core) the original or if you can GET IT BACK....DO SO.  Have it rebuilt.  YOU might be able to get someone with a similar MH to shoot you a picture of the wiring on their coach and then restore it.

NOW....I have not read every post about every alternator problem over the years....only 90% of them.  SOME alternators WILL WORK....but the tech needs to understand it and most do NOT.

If you have the buildsheet for your MH, you MIGHT find the original LN PN and SN so you can call them.  They will walk you through HOW it is supposed to be installed.  Monaco may have done a lot of things wrong, but they finally DID figure out how to make their charging system work.

Realize that this may not be what you want to hear....but the sad reality is that many folks have had to purchase a NEW LN (same PN) as they had before and then find a tech that could install it and terminate it correctly.  A LOT Of money has been "lost" due to fritzing around with a supposedly "GUARANTEED" Alternator....and there has been some damage as well.

BTW, the REV techs have no earthly idea of how Monaco wired the 2000 or even the 2009 MH's.  IF they can find the prints, they will be lucky.  Navistar TRIED to keep the old techs but when REV took over, they were put out to pasture.  Only the electrical shops near Eugene, OR (assuming you have an Oregon MH) or the Elkhart electrical shops know HOW to really replace an alternator.  Sad but true.  

Tom,

Even thou the alternator was replaced, it works, my alternator is not the issue as far as I know. If I supply battery voltage to the ignition stud, the alternator works. My problems is that I don't get a signal from the ignition to the alternator, and if I supply 12 volts to it, the the alternator charges, but my gauges still don't work.

I could not rebuild my old alternator, the case was cracked, I installed a new one sold b y AJ Electric
https://store.aj-elec.com/new-160-amp-alternator-for-applications-with-a-battery-isolator-and-duvac-system

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25 minutes ago, Pampero said:

Tom,

Even thou the alternator was replaced, it works, my alternator is not the issue as far as I know. If I supply battery voltage to the ignition stud, the alternator works. My problems is that I don't get a signal from the ignition to the alternator, and if I supply 12 volts to it, the the alternator charges, but my gauges still don't work.

I could not rebuild my old alternator, the case was cracked, I installed a new one sold b y AJ Electric
https://store.aj-elec.com/new-160-amp-alternator-for-applications-with-a-battery-isolator-and-duvac-system

I understand your problem....in that the case was cracked.  However, from what I have  read here and from what I was told by the LN tech support when I had a similar issue on a boat.....your new alternator MAY not be configured, internally,  to properly work with your MH's wiring system.....as the LN was sort of "Unique".

One solution.....  If you have the build sheet or if someone that has a the same year can assist you, get the EXACT PN for the LN alternator.  Then pull the PDF on it.  That will tell you how the terminals work and what they do.  Many folks have failed to get an AC Delco to work....even though the Delco terminals "Looked" the same.  If I read the posts and understand it, then you do not have the correct configuration.  I believe that the tach problem is a function of the alternator....as an erratic tach is always (or memory says it is), the FIRST sign that you have a failed or bad alternator.

Bottom line, the replacement alternator has to EXACTLY Match INTERNALLY and has the same "terminals"  (the stator, the ignition, whatever......and that is from memory) of the LN design.  If it does NOT .....it will not (or so many people have found out) WORK.  I am not being negative....but just advising you that there have been many (well over 100) alternator failures posted over the years.  Most of the time, when folks try to get another brand to replace it, the effort was not successful.  NOW.....some may have actually "rewired" and tried different configurations.....and may (we have varying reports) have got the other brand to work.  But many have given up and purchased a new LN (same model or replacement) and then it was a straight swap.

This is also a hot topic (memory) on IRV2.....so you might expand your search.....and see what folks have done to make another type or brand interchange.

http://www.rvforum.net/SMF_forum/index.php?topic=75175.0  If you google "monaco leece neville alternator replacement and fix", you will get MANY hits from all the "net".  Some GOOD and some REALLY BAD.  But what you are experiencing is not uncommon.....so maybe the insights and experiences of others, assuming they are knowledgeable, will help.

The thing, and you sound knowledgeable, to remember.....you need to know exactly WHICH wires go where on the original.  That is why I suggested you ask for some help and get a diagram or pictures and such....so that you had the original configuration.

This is the consensus of a LOT of Alternator Posts.  NOW....maybe someone with some hands on experience can jump in here and give you the "Magic Bullet Fix", but I don't remember too many success stories....

Good Luck and if you get the aftermarket to work, please write up a "white paper" with pictures and also the "wiring changes" that got everything back to the original function.  We can put it in the files and others will benefit in the future.

Thanks....

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Although I am not sure I completely understand your issue, I think it is that you cannot get the alternator to charge under "normal" conditions.  Your alternator appears to be similar to the original DUVAC style, which required "external excitation"--that is, it will not charge simply by rotating it...it must have power applied to its "excite" terminal.  If you THINK you have wired the alternator correctly, but are receiving no excitation voltage when you turn the ignition switch to "RUN"  AND your gages do not work, check in the front run bay (electrical compartment on Driver Side near front of vehicle).  There are two contactors there which supply power to the coach.  From my experience, if one of those contactors fails to close properly, you have no power to the instrument panel and no power to the A/C blower motor.  In my coach (2000 Dynasty) those contactors are located top-left in the FRB (front run bay). 

Coincidentally, on MY coach, the contactors frequently failed to connect, even when getting coil voltage and having the armature move.  It was an intermittent problem, even after replacing both contactors.  I read the manufacturer's info on installation of the contactor and it stated "Do not mount contactor in any position other than large end up.  If mounted with plunger travel horizontal, contacts on the armature may fail to connect."  I remounted mine with the "top hat" UP and never had another problem.

Will your A/C BLOWER come on when you turn the ignition switch to RUN?  If it does not, it is almost a sure sign the contactor is not closing.  That contactor does not prevent the engine from starting.  It only fails to supply many other items, one of which MIGHT be the excitation terminal on your alternator.

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Van,

If Guillermo's 2000 Windsor is similar to my 2002 there are no contactos  in the drivers side front run bay.  The only one is in the rear passenger side,

I checked my wiring schematic for the chassis, there is one relay that ties the ignition wire and the remote sense wire together.    If you do a search of the wiring diagram I posted several threads back using the term "Alt Relay" you can find it on the schematic.  No idea where it would be located.  This is something to check but I doubt it is the problem since it does require a signal from the Ignition and if there is no ignition signal the relay wouldn't work. 

These coaches are different even in the same year so trying to help using different years information may be futile.

 

One option is to get a Fox & Hound type wire tracer and start at the ignition and see if you can find the short or break in the wire.  These sometimes work but if the problem is buried deep in the bowels of the chassis you may have trouble. 

 

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