Monacoers Daily News

I just put the ES50M-65N Troubleshooting guide into the files section if you need it.  But the "hum" is normal and sometimes louder than other times. 

18 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

Is that from SEA or a local vendor.  The glass, has to be cut and then shipped to a distributor that can heat treat or temper it properly.

For those that are unaware, when a piece of “tempered glass” BREAKS….a GaZillion piece of glass or beads.  WHY? Safety.  If you pop of the outside panes on the driver’s windows or a piece of an OEM Boat (runabout or big cruiser), it totally shatters and doesn’t impale you.

SOLUTION… find a supplier, locally, that can cut “dual pane….laminated windshield glass”.  Has to be the same thickness….which might be a problem.  Done all time for side glasses…..as it is HARD to get an OEM replacement panel…

OTHER SOLUTION….put in a Plexiglass panel.  Use Double thickness…..might have to Laminate with a heavy duty double sided clear tape. If slightly thinner, use double stick tape to shim out where the frame is.  Done ALL the time on boats.  Eventually will have some UV haze… but WAY thicker. Sometimes a panel is “bowed” or has a slight twist.  Had a boat windshield….looked perfectly flat.  NOPE.  My glass guy put in two exact temoered fit panes….when he tightened up the frame so the glass would swing out and latch….the stress shattered it.  Plexiglass to the rescue….

My Plexiglass cost $50….a NEW panel, just the glass, from the boat builder…$450….

I would use 1/4 inch clean Lexan as it much harder to  break than regular plexiglass, we used it to make motorcycle windshields years ago and the never broke or cracked

Lesson learned, our coaches are snowflakes, same year and model may have a completely different set-up. It's best to do your own investigation to discover exactly how things work.

Thanks Russ. I’ll check it out.  I normally have a hum that we are use to but not it is 3 to 4 times louder.  Plus it’s located just under the bedroom window so if it keeps up like that it will be heard while trying to sleep.  Don’t like that. 
Don

Tom

Thanks for the background information. Good to know. I’m calling Esco in a few minutes to see what they say.  I’m going to stand by the unit and let them hear it so they can hear how loud it is.  I’ll look at the troubleshooting guide to see if there is anything I can do.  Not sure there is. More to follow. 
Don

Not yet. Will try to trace power wire to solenoid with my toner. May be hard because the signal bleeds to other wires in the bundle. Just have to listen for the strongest one. I’ll let y’all know if I find it. In the meantime, if anyone wants to chime in, please do. 

When ppl post a problem /about/with a CB,  circuit board, as the primary suspect , simply post a picture of YOUR FRB, Front Run Bay, and YOUR RRB, Rear Run Bay. That may could/ should help to reduce the confusion.  

Coach information in your signature area sure does help too.

My 2014 CR-V is front-wheel drive and the owners manual gives clear instructions on prep fo flat towing (somewhat different from above, but still simple enough a 5th grader could do it).

I found mine searching RV trader and it was ready to go with the baseplate installed and tow bar included.  Checked it out and good to go.  Probably 7,000 miles of flat towing and another 15,000 of driving, all is well.

Good luck in your search!

If it were matter of tightening some relay mounts, wire connections or box mounts I imagine someone would have suggested it . . . . but that would be my first go-to to lessen the hum or at least get it back to "original" hum.

I'm imagining Esco will recommend complete replacement for liability reasons. 

If you do open the box be sure to disconnect from shore power and not run the genny.  Hopefully that goes without saying.

And of course keep us posted what they say.

- bob

On 1/16/2024 at 7:43 PM, Ken Thompson said:

It sounds like there is getting to be more interest in another batch of Dynasty emblems. Everyone who wants polished stainless steel “Dynasty” emblems. I will start a list again. Please email all of your contact info to ken@kenthompsonconstruction.com, and now many emblems you want. Normally there is one on each side on the front, and 1 on the rear. Remember, they are the older versions for the early 2000’s. I’m not sure what year Monaco changed emblem styles. I am not doing this on a regular basis, or to make any money. I need to do at least 12-15 for the shop to do them. I am fortunate that my wife is a graphic designer, so she was able to take the original emblem and create the digital artwork that the metal shop needs. I think they were 1/8” thick and the edges turned out really nice. Sorry, but Dynasty’s are the only ones I have made. You have to provide your own glue. I used 3M trim adhesive, and it has held up for a year now. 
Thanks!

Ken Thompson

ken@kenthompsonconstruction.com

It looks like there is getting to be more interest in another batch of polished stainless steel Dynasty emblems. I need about 7-8 more people  that want them to make an order.

Ken

On 4/16/2024 at 6:52 AM, Duffer51 said:

Please add me to the list for 3. Thanks

Please direct email me with your contact info please. 

Almost a week of ownership, still learning about all this 2007 Dynasty has to offer. Our first night our site had a pretty good slope that raised the rear quite a bit, to the extent it couldn't self level but really close. Next site and current location site is really level, self leveled no problem, but wasn't long before the control panel started flashing with the slope indication. Started the engine leveled but again next morning same flashing, this time I noticed the clicking of the solenoids attempting to level.  I've checked fuses all good. Looking at the information here, I'm thinking the aux leveling compressor isn't working. Any other ideas or tips greatly appreciated. 

TIA

When I go  to close the step well cover I hear a click but nothing happens any suggestions?

10 hours ago, pwhittle said:

The IC’s are still available. I expect the regulator is too.

@pwhittle You might stock up on the MC33030P controller IC.  I only checked a few places and everyone was out of stock . . . except ebay and those pirates are asking $30 - $40 for a single IC!  😮 

Still better than scrapping and starting over . . . but geesh!

- bob

Our 2013 Diplomat 43DFT has a driver side full wall slide out. Its 25'. In a very bad wind/gale this past week, the roller bar with is 2 bars connected with a "splice" bent and pulled the topper apart. Never have seen this before but I have installed toppers before. My question is this. 

When I have installed new bars ( no tension yet) and slide topper, I added the topper material to the bar with the slide closed. I rolled up the topper on the roll bar completely and then put it in the brackets. Then I added the tension to the torsion spring. Seemed to work ok but my question is does it make a difference if I add the tension to the spring and lock it down, then with the slide OUT, add the topper and when done just release the holding pin. Seems like it would be easier to add the tension with the topper not on the roller bar. 

Thoughts please. 

Not sure if yours is air or electric but on our 03 Endeavor and many other models in this coach class we need air pressure to move the step well cover.

- bob

With the slide out there will be a LOT more tension on the spring.  That would make me nervous. 

When I swapped our topper I moved the slide out just enough to work with it, and inched the topper in both coach and roller grooves simultaneously . . . but I also locked the bar in place to keep the original tension.  Not an option in your case. 

I started over once when the bar broke (sheared at the pin) on a previous coach.  I don't remember how many revolutions of pre-tension it took (9 revs?), but it's probably different anyway. 

- bob

Not sure what manufacturer you have but I would guess if you contact them with the info on yours, they will tell you how many wraps you need to put on the spring for a pre-load.  I have a CareFree and they have those specs available.  Everyone is different depending on the size.

3 hours ago, Dr4Film said:

Lesson learned, our coaches are snowflakes, same year and model may have a completely different set-up. It's best to do your own investigation to discover exactly how things work.

That's what I did. Turned on one unit at a time, and after an hour or so, looked for the condensate dripping out the bottom.

I just remembered. The solenoid coil is grounded to chassis. Since coil has continuity to ground, I won’t be able to send a signal on the wire to it. 😩 So the search goes on. 

Still worth a try since you see at least some minimum resistance to ground, IMO 

I have an electronic”sniffer” device that detects leaks as small a 1 psi. It has come in very useful to locate and eliminate leaks. I have seen it detect air leaks I cannot hear by just walking g around the rv slowly.

 also has detected leaks soapy water did I not. I do not like some liquid leak detectors because they  corrode brass fittings. saves a lot of trouble shooting if  I go to a shop. 

The Aux compressors have a 99.99% failure rate. I recently had my HWH Aux Compressor Platform completely removed. I am rebuilding it this summer with all new components then it will be installed inside in an accessible location out of the weather where it can easily be serviced.

14 minutes ago, Jetjockey said:

I have an electronic”sniffer” device that detects leaks as small a 1 psi. It has come in very useful to locate and eliminate leaks. I have seen it detect air leaks I cannot hear by just walking g around the rv slowly.

 also has detected leaks soapy water did I not. I do not like some liquid leak detectors because they  corrode brass fittings. saves a lot of trouble shooting if  I go to a shop. 

Care to share??

No help with your question...But this is just another reason I converted to True Toppers last year.

Yeah, I thought that too. Will try but my toner is old like me and weak. It did work to find a burned out neutral  under the floor in an overhead cabinet factory connection a few years ago. ( Why they hid a connection   I don’t know. Guess NEC doesn’t apply. ) Installed a junction box that was accessible in the cabinet to fix it. 

Yes, As Bob H. said, check all electrical connections (both 120v and 12v) as our lovely smooth roads will loosen them up. Loose high amp loads can start fires and do.

6 hours ago, Jim Dinwiddie said:

  I'm thinking the aux leveling compressor isn't working. Any other ideas or tips greatly appreciated. 

TIA

Your '07 coach likely has the Valid/ Powergear system. This system has it's own small air tank that is filled by both the chassis tanks, and the electric aux compressor.

Find that little tank and open it's drain valve. If the compressor doesn't start.... A- the compressor is shot. B- a previous owner added a switch somewhere to kill power to the compressor. C- fuse or wiring to the compressor. 

There is also a pressure control switch wired to the compressor that frequently fail!

That's just dealing with whether the aux compressor is working. If you were parked in a reasonably level site, you shouldn't have any 'slope' alarms!

Maybe try rebooting the system. With the leveling system powered up, hold the on/off button for 10sec, till it beeps.

All, 

2003 Dynasty princess.

I currently have the original analog dial AC power in & amp use gauges.  Curious about any upgrades out there that anyone has any experience about.

i know my amp use readings are not correct for either leg.  It always reads low (never gets over 10).  When I look at pedestal surgeguard, it shows higher amp draws (that match more closely with appliances being used & on).  I think the dial gauges are adjustable by the tiny screw under the dials but curious about any digital options.

thanks for any input.

Kurt

Is this what you are looking for?

2005 Monaco Windsor step well cover not closing
Tom Cherry 11 hours ago