Ivan K

Our RC7GS was randomly ticking like you describe when we purchased the coach second hand. No resets would make it stop until I replaced it. It also had troubles turning on the invertor at that time. It had nothing to do with an extension cord.

I learned śomething, thought they were a thing of the past even in those years. Ours has drums only at the tag and because there is a single wheel, they are relatively easily inspected from behind.

Do you really have drum brakes in the front? I suspect not. The picture above shows a type of spring brake that would be on your drive axle, not in the front. Assuming you have a disk brake up front, I would check the caliper sliders for easy movement. If stuck or slow to back off of the rotor after you release the brakes, that could be your problem. For that you would have to back off the automatic slack adjuster and check the movement. In this situation, one of the pads would wear more than the other. I thought we all have automatic adjusters but don't know it for fact. They need to be greased too and should not cause a drag but a slow response, longer shaft travel, if not functional. There is a number of grease points on each brake to help them move in and out smoothly. I know you said that they were checked but was the caliper movement that inspected too? It takes some effort to do but jacking up the wheel and reproducing your issue should not be hard.

My first quess would be the salesman solenoid in the rear of the coach. Could also be a bad battery switch if your invertor is bypassing it. You say that there is voltage at the cutoff switch up front, that should be the case when the switch is off but should have ground on both sides when activated. The salesman solenoid in the rear should have 12v on both big posts when activated. If not, bypass it or move one cable to bypass it and see. btw, the generator could be started from chassis batteries, ours is. Seems to vary with different coaches.

Granville, I used the schedule listing in manual. It's been couple of years already. Valve lash settings are in engine manual. Mine is an Isuzu and I can look it up for you if needed. Most involved part was the bearing and collector/brush replacement and I got some pics how I pulled them off from that time if it would help. All the parts were readily available. I have not touched the injectors since the Engine runs just fine.

Romeo84, in your Sig, the vacuum generator should be just under the vacuum reservoir in Front run bay just like ours.

If that sound is coming from rear of the generator, it could be fan blades touching on ABS shroud that could have cracked and deflected. Hard to tell from the sample but you might be able to tell if it sounds like that. As far as the valves and injectors, anyone willing to open the top cover can do it. This is not a Cummins engine but just a little 3 cylinder Isuzu or Kubota. Super easy and quick once you gain access. I had to take the top, rear and side covers off for 3000 hour maintenance which includes much more.

One more thing you may want to have checked out besides the LR leak is plumbing of your aux compressor. If it is plumbed like ours to directly feed the big air tanks, it will not have the capacity to fill them from empty before timing out. The factory messed it up on ours but since we have no major leaks, it did not bother me enough to fix it yet. If your configuration includes a small auxiliary tank just for leveling, this would not apply.

I would start by looking for a leak in left rear as that's where it seems to be dropping. If there isn't more than at least around 65 PSI in your tanks, the compressor should kick in when that airbag is near empty but it may not be able to keep up and the system quits after 20 or so minutes of trying. It should turn on the red 'excess slope' light at that point too.

Do the yellow lights on touchpad correspond to your visual observation? When it shuts off, does your red 'excess slope" light come on? Can you ever hear the new compressor to run? From your description it would seem that there is a leak in your driver rear corner but if you are on a level ground, the coach should just keep lowering until it sits level on bump stops. Just to be sure, we are talking about air leveling, correct?

Wow, that sounds like a lot of expense with no resolution. At least some of it is good preventative maintenance, like the airbag replacement. There isn't much left other than hoses and fittings. Seems that they don't suspect the controller taking it out of level and you would likely know if it did, like if the sensor was flaky. Once leveled and all the valves with new o-rings are closed, the only things in play are the hoses/fittings to your new airbags. You could be more descriptive in how exactly does it get out of level, left-right, front-rear, can you hear the valves opening when it happens or is it over time.

I would be curious to know if you find any kind of voltage drop across this breaker, if you will use it. I don't see where it states what kind of breaker it is.

Not even from the rear start switch? Does the ignition ON allow for dash blower to run? I have a different coach so just a wild guess at zooming at the issue. I have an ignition solenoid in FRB that looks just like the salesman switch and was just as intermittent at one time.

Slobber catch can comes in tons of variations. Some with fancy filter on top to prevent dirty air to be sucked back in, there is no reason to filter blowby air on a diesel as it would never be sucked back in, so there can be just a simple down hose. Usually used when there is excessive blowby to prevent it from dripping oil, hopefully not his case. Just google it. And yes, there would be a provision to drain the oil which is not visible in the picture.

We carry a complete mounted tire for the rig. Large and heavy but it is ready to go just in case.

So who is buying the used trucks if a new one can be had for near same $$? I thought about it too and then decided to keep my 2500 HD just because it was the last year before DEF nonsense was mandatory. At least for now...

Our factory solar panel was wired directly to RV30 controller through a junction box attached to side of roof fridge vent, without any switch or fuse. Being only a 90W panel, I guess they did not feel a need for it. The little junction box would be my next test point to check out if yours is the same.

Maybe a catch can that someone added to hold the puke oil that would end up on the ground and your toad otherwise?

Yes it would if you have a tag axle.

Joe, from google search, 3rd or maybe even 5th hand information says that RM8H would have steel house construction where RR8S would have aluminum house framing, bolted to the chassis. If you see the sidewall framing in humid mornings, you'll have steel welded framing, IMO preferable. I do not know if this is 100% correct information about all RR8S but someone might confirm. I can see the sidewall framing very obviously on ours when the weather is right.

Our HWH does not have a reset switch either. When you were inside the controller box, have you checked or reseated the cable to touchpad? Ours got loose on both sides of it over time and caused leveling to not function similar to yours. But never blew a fuse.

This was inside of our factory regulator. I threw it as far as I could so I would never see it again. It was hidden behind the panel in water bay, before city water/tank fill valve, with only the threaded connection part sticking out. It was supposed to be a straight through brass "regulator". Talk about restriction. If your problem is only related to city water, I'd be looking for similar POS.

Like Richard, we have front male air nipple in for the tow truck, rear female connection for toad brakes and an other female connector in propane tank area. That one is for tire inflation but you have to consider the pressure fluctuates roughly between 90 to 125 PSI. As the tank and tire pressure equalizes, the air flow slows down or even reverses depending how much pressure you need in your tire. When that happens, I would have to let enough air out of the tank for the compressor to kick in again. Considering that I run 115Psi in the steers, it takes patience. This is why I also carry a compressor in the hummer even though it is primarily used for off road situations.

Is it an electric generator? If it was air operated, I could do some comparison test. In my experience, vacuum pumps are good at generating vacuum but not so good at holding it when turned off without some sort of a valve which may be a part of the generator or the storage tank depending where the vacuum switch that turns the generator on/off is located.

It can be done. My wife made ours when we were on the road in AZ, to avoid all the questions about what happened to our windshield. Once we got home, she made the side window cover as well. It looks professional because she is a professional. We had existing snaps already installed so it had to be custom made to fit anyways.