Trailer Brakes

[Lolo1034]

Hi all,

I have a 2006 Monaco and use a car hauler to trailer my Jeep.  What kind of braking system do you have in your rig for your trailer, or can anyone recommend a unit?  I had one of those small controllers in my truck when pulling a 5th wheel, with a class A and air brakes, is there a specific type of braking system I need for the trailer?

[dl_racing427]

I installed a Tekonsha Prodigy brake controller in my 93 Dynasty.
The wiring to the rear was already there, just had to connect to it.
The Prodigy is a very nice controller, and will handle at least 6 brakes, maybe 8 IIRC.
Check out E-Trailer.com.  I've bought several items from them and always been treated well.

[Bob Wightman]

I also installed the Prodigy on my 04 Monaco Knight, i ordered mine from Amazon but also have ordered many things from eTrailer with good results.  My coach was already wired with a 6 wire trailer light plug and an old (unused/defective) flat tow controller so I tied onto both of those systems to install a new 7 wire/4 wire combo plug as I tow both big and small trailers for ATV's, Airboat, Swamp buggy, etc. and most of the trailers have electric brakes.  There is a switched 12 volt off the key up under the dash that was pretty easy to find but finding the brake signal was a little difficult.  I did find it on the electrical panel outside behind the basement door under the driver side window, which is where the brake lights get their signal/power from.  I just jumped onto that and ran a wire in through the front firewall to the steering wheel area where I mounted the controller, and just to be sure the brakes worked correctly I ran a new brake wire back to the 7 wire plug just strung under the coach where I could get it through and keep it protected.  It took me a day to do and it wasn't easy but it works great, would be easy if i had to do it again now that I know how it all works.  I read that the coach is already wired for electric brake control but with all the wires being white it was a pain to find so I just made it work with what I had.  I could send pictures of how I installed it if it would help you.  Good Luck!

[Ivylog]

Have you found the unused white 6 wire plug near the bottom of the steering column… pre wiring for the brake controller? 
Having started with a controller (a rheostat with a manual lever) paying $100+ for one seems absurd to me, especially for installing in a MH that weighs 4X the trailer. Plenty of $50 ones that will do the job.

[Dr4Film]

When Full-Time RVing and hauling a 30 foot cargo trailer I installed a Tekonsha P2 for my first controller. Then my brother suggested upgrading to the P3 which I did and between the two I prefer the P3. Sold the trailer a few years back and now just tow my car. We are now Part-Time RVer's.

https://www.tekonsha.com/products/brake-controllers/proportional-controllers

Edited June 20, 2021 by Dr4Film

[Rikadoo]

Hey something to concider when towing, because all control modules operate when they see the brake light circuit applie, and my rig MAY be unique in that when im using my engine brake when it comes on it also turns on my brake lights. For the most part thats not a problem you just need to remember if your “gain” on the controller is set for your load that there may SOME times you will want less trailer brakes, like long engine brake run coming down the sierras or like mountain terrain. I say this in a caring mannor, for you flatlanders out there driving on flat roads are one thing, however if your not used to mountain roads keeping your little trailer brakes engauged for long runs WILL overheat them, causing premature failure and more!!! Ask me how i know🤦‍♂️🙀

Before my next trip im going to put a spring loaded switch in the the blue wire to the brakes so i can interupt the current to the trailer stopping that from happening again, an yes i know i could just drop the gain at the controller however when driving i just dont want to have to distract myself from the task at hand. 
Safe travels everyone😎

[Dr4Film]

Rik, whoever wired up your brake controller should not have used the brake lights to trigger the brake controller. Prodigy's instructions clearly state that the controller should be triggered from the switch on the brake pedal, photo attached.

My brakes lights activate when I step on the brake or when the exhaust brake is activated. However my brake controller ONLY activates when I step on the brake NOT when the brakes lights are on.

The only thing I had to do extra (only because Monaco uses the ground on the brake switch) was to install a relay to change the signal from a negative one coming from the brake switch to a positive one that the brake controller needs to see.

[Lolo1034]

Thank you all, you are all so very helpful! 😁

[Bob Wightman]

FYI, my rig also has the exhaust brake and I have no problem using the brake controller when getting the signal from the brake light circuit.  

[amphi_sc]

I realize I'm a Beaver and not a pure Monaco, but I am a Beaver merged with Monaco.  In my dash wiring I had a proper polarity service brake wire independent of the brake lights.  I would not want trailer brakes (or toad brakes for that matter) to come on when the brake lights are active simply for the engine brake situation.  I want brake lights when the engine brake is slowing me down, but not necessarily engaging real brakes in the towed vehicle until I step on the brake pedal.

IMHO

[dl_racing427]

18 hours ago, Ivylog said:

Have you found the unused white 6 wire plug near the bottom of the steering column… pre wiring for the brake controller? 
Having started with a controller (a rheostat with a manual lever) paying $100+ for one seems absurd to me, especially for installing in a MH that weighs 4X the trailer. Plenty of $50 ones that will do the job.

There's a big difference in how smoothly, and how quickly in an emergency stop situation, that a good controller and a cheap one operate.
When it comes to stopping my rig, that extra $100 or so is money well spent.

18 hours ago, Rikadoo said:

Hey something to concider when towing, because all control modules operate when they see the brake light circuit applie, and my rig MAY be unique in that when im using my engine brake when it comes on it also turns on my brake lights. For the most part thats not a problem you just need to remember if your “gain” on the controller is set for your load that there may SOME times you will want less trailer brakes, like long engine brake run coming down the sierras or like mountain terrain. I say this in a caring mannor, for you flatlanders out there driving on flat roads are one thing, however if your not used to mountain roads keeping your little trailer brakes engauged for long runs WILL overheat them, causing premature failure and more!!! Ask me how i know🤦‍♂️🙀

Before my next trip im going to put a spring loaded switch in the the blue wire to the brakes so i can interupt the current to the trailer stopping that from happening again, an yes i know i could just drop the gain at the controller however when driving i just dont want to have to distract myself from the task at hand. 
Safe travels everyone😎

Your brake controller should be wired into the brake light circuit before the engine brake, so it only operates when you step on the brake pedal.
Better yet, your brake lights should not activate when you're not actually stepping on the brakes anyway.
Having them on continuously on a grade will result in those behind you not being able to tell that you're suddenly slowing or stopping if something unexpected occurs.
Ever followed a car down the road whose brake lights are stuck on?  After a minute or so you just assume they're stuck, and if they stop, you have no warning.

[Ivylog]

You can disable the brake lights coming on when using the Jake/exhaust brake by pulling the 15A fuse in the FRBox.

Helps to have the MH 10’ away to take a picture.

Edited June 21, 2021 by Ivylog

[Rikadoo]

Well i shall revisit the wiring, i connected to what was already there and tested inputs an outputs, the only thing different was instead of the blue wire in the harness someone had run a seperate blue wire from controller to the tow plug and using a DVOM it confirms controller is being activated with the engine brake. I apologize if i gave misinformation as it was truley not my intent. However when it cooked the brakes on my brand new dollie on its maiden voyage to Az i knew i had to do something... 
 

[dl_racing427]

21 hours ago, Rikadoo said:

Well i shall revisit the wiring, i connected to what was already there and tested inputs an outputs, the only thing different was instead of the blue wire in the harness someone had run a seperate blue wire from controller to the tow plug and using a DVOM it confirms controller is being activated with the engine brake. I apologize if i gave misinformation as it was truley not my intent. However when it cooked the brakes on my brand new dollie on its maiden voyage to Az i knew i had to do something... 
 

You're lucky.  I've seen trailers burned to the ground from this issue. 

Brakes get hot enough to set the bearing grease on fire, which spreads to the tires, and the whole trailer is soon engulfed. 

Sometimes they noticed it soon enough to pull over and unhitch before it burns the coach down too.

[Nevada Rob]

On 6/20/2021 at 6:07 AM, Ivylog said:

Have you found the unused white 6 wire plug near the bottom of the steering column… pre wiring for the brake controller? 
Having started with a controller (a rheostat with a manual lever) paying $100+ for one seems absurd to me, especially for installing in a MH that weighs 4X the trailer. Plenty of $50 ones that will do the job.

Is this the plug you are referring too?

[Frank McElroy]

In the wiring diagrams you will find the wiring circuit.  Here is a screen shot of plug 66

 

[Nevada Rob]

Now to find the correct adapter plug. Maybe a TeKonsha # 3035??

 

[Dr4Film]

Chances are the wire configuration on that Tekonsha #3035 will not mate with the Monaco connector correctly.

Make your own by using a female Mate-N-Lok matching connector and installing it onto the end of the wiring harness that comes with the TeKonsha Brake Controller.

 

Edited August 19, 2023 by Dr4Film

[Nevada Rob]

The 3035 looks right in the picture but it is hard to tell. I need this done today and I doubt anyone in town that is open today will have what I need. I think that I will cut that plug off and hard wire up with connectors. I have some wire connectors that are very secure and can be used multiple times. They are much better than crimp butt connectors. Thanks for the input. I better get at it before the thunderstorms and heavy rain hits again. Have a great day.

[Agpopp]

I hope the brake light's don't come on with the exhaust brake switch on my Neptune. I did notice some grease on my trailer hubs after my 2800 mile trip.  Is there a way to test this parked ?

[Dr4Film]

A  brake controller should NOT be triggered by using any brake light as a signal. If it is then you have wired it incorrectly. It should ONLY be triggered when the brake pedal is pressed from the brake switch.

My brakes lights on my Windsor would come on with the exhaust brake but the trailer brakes would not activate unless I actually pressed on the brake pedal.

[Nevada Rob]

I do not believe the trailer brakes are activated by the exhaust brake. The controller only show output when the brakes are applied. Nothing with the exhaust brake. I think everything is good and I used the wires from the factory plug.

[Tom Cherry]

On 8/19/2023 at 11:38 AM, Nevada Rob said:

Now to find the correct adapter plug. Maybe a TeKonsha # 3035??

 

FORGET IT.  Just splice into the wires using 3M Scotchlok connectors.  Mine was done when I bought it new for the US GEAR Universal Tow Brake.  It works EXACTLY like you need for a “trailer” brake controller.  I used it for 8 years without a “baubble” and only discontinued when I bought a new Yukon and switched to M&G air operated.

Doubtful you will be plugging in an out.  My solution….keep it simple.  You really want to use the #12 wire directly from the controller to the “blue” wire….and BTW…Monaco probably used WHITE with a dot matrix label.  Use a VOM and “pin out” or verify the other 4 wires….then the one left if the “BLUE” that runs to the rear.

6 hours ago, Nevada Rob said:

I do not believe the trailer brakes are activated by the exhaust brake. The controller only show output when the brakes are applied. Nothing with the exhaust brake. I think everything is good and I used the wires from the factory plug.

You are correct.  The BLACK/WHITE wire in Frank’s print is a positive 12 VDC.  IT comes from an additional relay Monaco added.  When Monaco added “prewired” for trailer in 2005, they goofed.  US GEAR corrected them and some mid 2005, but all, based on what folks have posted, wiring was correct.  Monaco switches the GROUND on the MH Brake light circuits….don’t ask why…it is Monaco.  They added a relay that is powered from the ignition.  They activate it by sending the same GROUND signal to the BOSCH relay coil.  So…tap the service brake.  Brake lights come on & the “trailer brake” relay is energized. It then sends out a POSITIVE 12VDC signal….same as a conventional car or truck brake light circuit.  This is what all “trailer brake” controllers need.

YES….this works.  Don’t over complicate it.  Follow the wire designations on the plug .  BUT…use a VOM to confirm before you splice into the wires .  Worked for me. 3M Scotchlok connectors, sized properly, worked…

[Tom Cherry]

On 8/19/2023 at 11:21 PM, Agpopp said:

I hope the brake light's don't come on with the exhaust brake switch on my Neptune. I did notice some grease on my trailer hubs after my 2800 mile trip.  Is there a way to test this parked ?

Many ways….whatever is easiest.  The OUTPUT wire or the 12 VDC to the brakes should have been connected to the BLUE wire in the harness that Frank posted.  Then the other wires such as the Black/White service brake signal (which is your brake lights and NOT an exhaust brake signal) should hve been connected or wired properly.  So, verify that the controller was installed per Monaco’s harness.

Next….take a needle and “pierce” the output wire (to the brakes) from the controller…which should have been hooked to the infamous BLUE (which may have been white and dot matrix printed to identify it)…or where the splice was….add a lead.  Use a VOM or a test light (alligator clips). Drive.  Turn on the exhaust…should be NO signal or no voltage….then tap or apply the brakes….12 VDC.  You could test parked and engine running….but, I’d drive it to be sure.

Other option.  Buy a spare 7 pin plug….you may need it some day.  Put two temporary wires on it.  GROUND & “blue” or the wire that goes to the trailer brakes.  Run a  test light (buy a cheap socket at AutoZone).  Run the light up right under your rear camera….duct tape it temporarily.  Drive….exhaust on…NO light….pedal brakes on…light…. Option is to splice the light into the wiring on the trailer side or the pigtail and run the light temporarily up to your camera…. I do NOT think that the brake controllers get a “feedback” signal…but if you really want the acid test…temporarily splice in a test light and have at it….

[Nevada Rob]

Thanks for the thoughts. I just cut the factory plug off and wired straight up to the brake controller. Very straight forward. Someone sent over a color layout of the factory wires and what they did. The blue wire and white were as they should be. The only switch is the black and red. The black on the controller is 12 Volts supply. It works good. I have been driving it for two years without trailer brakes towing our enclosed trailer. It is not real heavy or load down but better to get something back there.