Jump to content

Salesman Switch Solenoid


Bob Wightman

Recommended Posts

I have a 2004 Monaco Knight that i have replaced the salesman switch solenoid several times, and just did it again recently just to have it fail again.  I'm using original part number and every time i replace it everything works good for a few months then it blows the fuse again.  I like having this feature as i don't have the opportunity to use the coach as much as i would like and i can just turn everything on as i come in the way i left it last.  All my electrical connecting to the solenoid is good, I have replace the actual switch itself and still cant seem to make it reliable.  Has anybody else experienced this problem and found a solution for it?  I'm considering just replacing it with a battery on/off manual switch and be done with it but wanted to run it past the group for advice first.  Thanks in advance! 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

25 minutes ago, Bob Wightman said:

I have a 2004 Monaco Knight that i have replaced the salesman switch solenoid several times, and just did it again recently just to have it fail again.  I'm using original part number and every time i replace it everything works good for a few months then it blows the fuse again.  I like having this feature as i don't have the opportunity to use the coach as much as i would like and i can just turn everything on as i come in the way i left it last.  All my electrical connecting to the solenoid is good, I have replace the actual switch itself and still cant seem to make it reliable.  Has anybody else experienced this problem and found a solution for it?  I'm considering just replacing it with a battery on/off manual switch and be done with it but wanted to run it past the group for advice first.  Thanks in advance! 

Bob, my guess without looking at your diagrams you already have a battery cut off switch for chassis and house batteries.  Mine are located in the rear compartment curbside.  On my 05 Safari Gazelle I use this to disconnect both battery banks when I’m not expecting to use the coach much.  I may have a 04 Knight diagram, I can look at it. 
the downside is you have to access the rear compartment each time.  It’s not as convenient as the salesman switch.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Replace the POS Battery Cut-Off continuous duty solenoid with a Latching Solenoid. That requires you to install a momentary switch in place of the on/off switch and you have to run an additional wire from the switch to the new solenoid.

Otherwise you either keep replacing what you have OR bypass the solenoid permanently and just use the House Battery Disconnect Switch.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think this is a good example of the kind of junk parts that is on the market today. My current rv I bought over 2 years ago and the solenoid worked part of time, previous owner said he had extra ones. Point is he was buying cheapest one he could find. (no brand name) I got a COLE HERSEE and never had any more trouble. A lot of parts may look identical on outside but the main components are inferior.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 10/15/2021 at 4:37 AM, Dr4Film said:

Replace the POS Battery Cut-Off continuous duty solenoid with a Latching Solenoid. That requires you to install a momentary switch in place of the on/off switch and you have to run an additional wire from the switch to the new solenoid.

Otherwise you either keep replacing what you have OR bypass the solenoid permanently and just use the House Battery Disconnect Switch.

13 minutes ago, wamcneil said:

X2. Another benefit is power consumption. My continuous solenoid drew 750ma. That’s 18AH/d

I just had to replace my solenoid a few weeks ago. I had the same thought "how much friggin' power does this thing use just staying energized all the time?". 

Could someone post a link to a suitable latching solenoid for reference?

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What I have IS a latching relay.  When you pulse the switch inside the door the relay closes, but it's not a magnetic relay closing it is a plunger type thing that closes the contacts and turns on the power.  When you pulse the relay again the plunger clicks and opens the contacts.  I have monitored the purple control wire and it only gets power when the switch is closed triggering the solenoid so when its either engaged or disengaged theres no draw on the solenoid coil.  You would think this thing would be serviceable but it's not, fortunately it's always failed and left the solenoid in the "On" condition.  I think i'm just going to bypass it with a battery switch in the front compartment  under the drivers seat.  Not convenient, but more convenient than the one in the battery compartment and i'm tired of messing with this thing.

KIB LR9806 Latching Relay.html

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My original setup had one KIB latching relay and also a continuous solenoid that was triggered by the output side of the latching relay. So the salesman switch controlled the KIB, and the KIB energized the continuous relay.
I think the KIB is only rated for 60a, so a lot of the house loads went through the continuous relay.
Do you have a similar arrangement or are all of your house loads going through the KIB? Maybe someone removed the secondary relay?

After I swapped all the halogen lights for LED, I calculated that all of the house loads could be handled by just the KIB. So I removed the continuous solenoid and connected its loads to the KIB. It’s been doing the job just fine for about 4 years now.

If you still have 80amps worth of halogen lights, plus all of the other house loads are going through the KIB, maybe high current is killing your relays?

Cheers

Walter

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Latching soenoids are mechanically latched and do not draw any power when on or off, only drawing power for a few seconds when they switch stated. DC however causes a LOT more arcing on the contacts than AC. Hence switches designed for DC have a more robust design to handle the arcing and hence cost more and this is especially true for higher amp switches.

I turn off loads before activiting these larger DC solenoids which helps with longer life. Likewise for switches. Failure of the 2 Monaco battery switches have been posted but I leave them on. I have Blue Seas switches on the posts of the 2 battery banks, 300A on the house and 2000A on the chassis batteries.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 10/16/2021 at 1:22 PM, StephenW said:

Blue Sea systems makes a 12v magnetic latching solenoid.

https://www.bluesea.com

I looked at the Blue sea site via your link, but did not see latching solenoids?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 6 months later...

Leaving the Coach yesterday and used the salesman switch to kill the lights.  Turned off both battery disconnects in the rear House battery compartment.   When I returned today, I turned on both battery switches, yet I have no 12v power to the house.  
Gen will start, however still now power.  
is this a common symptom of the above battery cut off relay?

Thanks for any feedback!!!

Bob

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What you're describing could be consistent with a salesman relay failure. I assume you hit the salesman switch again after having turned on the battery switches?

You can check it by testing voltage on the input and output terminals of the salesman relay.

Cheers,

Walter

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Before I went to the solenoid, I would check the voltage through the house and chassis disconnects.  Both of mine failed shortly after I purchased my 05 Safari.  If they are open inside you aren't going to have power at the front electrical panel.  I replaced my switches with 300 amp marine switches.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 hours ago, LakeBob said:

Leaving the Coach yesterday and used the salesman switch to kill the lights.  Turned off both battery disconnects in the rear House battery compartment.   When I returned today, I turned on both battery switches, yet I have no 12v power to the house.  
Gen will start, however still now power.  
is this a common symptom of the above battery cut off relay?

Thanks for any feedback!!!

Bob

Bob - Your 2009 Dynasty should be a chassis multiplex coach.  For the salesman switch to work, the CCM module in the FRB (front run bay) must be getting battery power.  See if the green LEDs on the battery feeds to the large circuit board are lit.  If they are, try cycling the battery cuttoff switches.  This will reboot the CCM chassis multiplex module in the FRB and it will also reboot all the dash switch panels multiplex circuits.  If other dash switches are working and you still have no 12 VDC to the house, then likely the latching relay next to the Big Boy is bad.  Normally these latching relays last a very long time but they can go bad quickly if being used to routinely turn off heavy loads.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just another idea on salesman switch replacement…

On my 2000 Dynasty the salesman switch operated two relays - one went to the house fuse panel and one goes to the front bay electrical box. 
 

Because we full- time, and I disliked the power they were using, I bypassed them - then when I was installing my lithium batteries- I realized there was a better product. 
 

I installed Victron Smart Battery Protect BP-65.  This way if my batteries are draining, at a certain voltage they will cut the load. Hopefully that will prevent the batteries getting too low. They will re-connect when the power gets over a certain Voltage. I have them set for a disconnect at 11.6v and 11.8v and reconnected at 12.0v and 12.1v (the front bay shuts off first - then the house fuse panel).

Edited by Rocketman3
Edited for clarity
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...