Broken kitchen sink drain line inside of slide out on drivers side, 2000 Dynasty PBS with Aquahot

[Viper04]

Anyone have suggestions on how and what materials to use to fix a broken main drain line (black plastic) from the kitchen sink to the grey water tank

 

thx

 

viper 04'

[bobdinsmore]

I used a rubber collar with different diameters at both ends and held it together with screw-type clamps (it had broken at the elbow). I also added/rearranged hanger straps so it would be flexible and supported along its entire length of travel. I don't have access to the MH right now but I seem to recall I used/replaced the broken piece with "corrugated" pool hose to improve flexibility.

[Bill Hines]

Where is it broken at? Mine broke inside the rear kitchen wall and bathroom.

 

[LakeBob]

I’ve had to replace the white flexible PVC line, I can help with that if needed 

[96 EVO]

1 hour ago, Bill Hines said:

Where is it broken at? Mine broke inside the rear kitchen wall and bathroom.

 

Bill, did you cut an access hatch in your bathroom wall?

[jacwjames]

I believe that access can be gained by taking apart the cabinet.  Here's a couple parts pages for my coach.  The first one shows the setup pretty well, the second has a list of parts. 

This cabinet is the one in the corner of the slide.   There are 3 drawers that will have to be removed.   The stove top is the next one over with storage underneath.  The shelves in the storage cabinet will have to come out and then there is a thin piece of veneer plywood covers the access hole.  

1 Kitchen slideout plumbing.pdf 1 Slideout Plumbing Wall.pdf

[tcbrow]

On my '01 Diplomat I was able to gain access by removing the back panel of the lower (crosswise) kitchen cabinet.

[Viper04]

2 hours ago, Viper04 said:

Anyone have suggestions on how and what materials to use to fix a broken main drain line (black plastic) from the kitchen sink to the grey water tank

 

thx

 

viper 04'

Mine broke both behind the kitchen drawers and behind the access panel/bottom cabinet in the bathroom where the toilet is

 

thx

Looks like a complete replacement from the kitchen sink trap to the tank

My drains are still all factory black pupe

Pipe 

[Ivan K]

4 minutes ago, Viper04 said:

Mine broke both behind the kitchen drawers and behind the access panel/bottom cabinet in the bathroom where the toilet is

 

thx

Looks like a complete replacement from the kitchen sink trap to the tank

That is how I accessed mine too and replaced with hot tub hose from Home Depot. Exact match.

[Viper04]

Thx to everyone for the leads on the repair. Looks like I'll be doing this one myself. Only could imagine what a dealership repair would cost and since a lot Od places now will not let you watch their work, you don't have that warm and fuzzy about the repair unless you do it yourself,right the first time. 
 

what size and brand of flex pool hose and any estimate on materials cost?

 

thx

My closest Lowe's is 30 miles away and Home Depot is about the same in the opposite direction. 
 

thx

2 hours ago, 96 EVO said:

Bill, did you cut an access hatch in your bathroom wall?

Bill

thank you very much. Now have a clear picture of what I getting into. Just got a estimate from a mobile RV guy,

we are in Nashville about 2 hours from home and he quoted 500 plus parts but said

it might be around 750.00. OUCH!  They look at your coach and think you're a prevost owner. 😂 lol 

[Viper04]

I am thinking about putting foam insulation around the drain pipe to prevent rubbing 

issues. I am sure mine broke because of the Tennessee I-40

interstate pothole virus. Saw a bad one coming but no where to go at 55mph while towing our Ram pickup. It Jared my and the wife's teeth and I even thought I heard the dog say ##%%, lol. 
 

what's everyone's opinion on the foam around the drain pipe where it flexes?

 

thx

 

Tim

3 hours ago, LakeBob said:

I’ve had to replace the white flexible PVC line, I can help with that if needed 

Bob

thank you, looks like the pool flex pipe or hot tub pipe is the way to go. Per your and many owners suggestions. I'll have to remove the kitchen drawers, cooktop, and toilet closet cabinet insert. Luckily my lower toilet cabinet doors remove as a one piece assembly with just 6 Phillips screws. It pulls out for full access. I can get my head in there so I know as long as I can see the break I can fix it. 
 

thanks again 

 

"you meet the best people in

a Monaco"

 

Tim

[96 EVO]

Woah!

Don't give me the solution for this issue!

I'm just asking about another members access pictures! I always thought if I ever need to make this repair, making a large hatch in the bathroom wall would be the way to go!

[LakeBob]

Please see : 

 

On my coach I had to remove an end cabinet to gain access.  

[Frank Bergamo]

These drain hoses breaking are a very common problem. You can also get the hose at a hot tub or spa store. I would steer clear of the flexible fill hose as my experience has not been good with that type of hose. Also, cut the hose length as long as you can to reduce the angle at the fittings. Make sure there is clearance when slide is closed so bend in hose does not hit the retracted slide wall. One other thing I do is not open or close slide when in cold temperatures unless furnace is on, allowing hose to have a little more flex with warmer temperature. Hope this helps.

[Bill Hines]

Yes I did cut an access opening in the bathroom. 

[96 EVO]

17 minutes ago, Frank Bergamo said:

  One other thing I do is not open or close slide when in cold temperatures unless furnace is on, allowing hose to have a little more flex with warmer temperature. Hope this helps.

Frank, I try to do the same!

1 hour ago, Viper04 said:

Thx to everyone for the leads on the repair. Looks like I'll be doing this one myself. Only could imagine what a dealership repair would cost and since a lot Od places now will not let you watch their work, you don't have that warm and fuzzy about the repair unless you do it yourself,right the first time. 
 

what size and brand of flex pool hose and any estimate on materials cost?

 

thx

My closest Lowe's is 30 miles away and Home Depot is about the same in the opposite direction. 
 

thx

Bill

thank you very much. Now have a clear picture of what I getting into. Just got a estimate from a mobile RV guy,

we are in Nashville about 2 hours from home and he quoted 500 plus parts but said

it might be around 750.00. OUCH!  They look at your coach and think you're a prevost owner. 😂 lol 

Yeah, just cut your access hatch, then install a frame around it to reattach to the wall.

It will look good as new. 

[Jim Pratten]

58 minutes ago, 96 EVO said:

Frank, I try to do the same!

Yeah, just cut your access hatch, then install a frame around it to reattach to the wall.

It will look good as new. 

Opening doesn't have to be this large.  Primary purpose of opening was to insert a fireplace on kitchen side of wall.  Inspection access was a bonus.

Edited February 28, 2023 by Jim Pratten

[Viper04]

I lucked out because my coach has doors on the wall for storage of toilet paper on the bottom and towels and hand towels above it. Both cubbies 

are compartments that  slide into the wall and are held in with wood screws. Zip out the screws and the compartments slide out as a whole unit. Good access not perfect but I think I can get to everything to replace the pipes needed 

 

Tim

[96 EVO]

2 minutes ago, Viper04 said:

I lucked out because my coach has doors on the wall for storage of toilet paper on the bottom and towels and hand towels above it. Both cubbies 

are compartments that  slide into the wall and are held in with wood screws. Zip out the screws and the compartments slide out as a whole unit. Good access not perfect but I think I can get to everything to replace the pipes needed 

 

Tim

Yeah, sounds like much better access than some later models!

[Viper04]

My opinion is 2000 to 2004 we're models built with quality materials and the bean counters had yet to "cheapen 

up" the coach building process. Up to 2000 on the Roadmaster chassis the coaches had a solid steel welded framework, welded to

the Roadmaster chassis. Later models were built using aluminum framework saving weight and production time because of labor and weight saved versus steel. But welded steel doesn't rattle or squeak. 
The slides have to function better due to a strong steel framework and less flexibility 

than the aluminum ones. Just my thoughts 

[Bandit411]

I got lucky I just finished fixing mine but it was on passenger side and the slide had a door that slid closed when the slide opened and was held by a chain with two hooks. The flex pipe is 1-1/2 and pvc fittings fit. It has a screw in fitting glued to each end used pipe dope to screw the fittings into the black pipe. I cut the broken pipe and unscrewed the fittings then used the putty to screw in the1-1/2 fittings to the black pipe and then glued the flex pipe to the bottom fitting then the top. Not to bad of a job. 

I forgot to tell you I bought the flex pipe from Lowe’s and it was around 5 dollars a foot and the fittings cost about 5. Dollars each. 

[wamcneil]

20 hours ago, Viper04 said:

I lucked out because my coach has doors on the wall for storage of toilet paper on the bottom and towels and hand towels above it. Both cubbies 

are compartments that  slide into the wall and are held in with wood screws. Zip out the screws and the compartments slide out as a whole unit. Good access not perfect but I think I can get to everything to replace the pipes needed 

 

Tim

Have fun fixing that... It's a hard area to work in...

The fitting at the end of my flex pipe had come loose from the cabinet and worked the black ABS pipe back and forth till it broke at the elbow at the back of the cabinets. ABS drain pipe isn't readily available in TX but Home Depot had PVC transition glue, so I replaced most of the drain pipe at the back of the cabinetry with PVC and tied it into the black ABS where it was impractical to install new PVC. 

Then anchored the end of the new PVC to the cabinet so it doesn't move around when the flex pipe pushes and pulls on the fitting.

Cheers, Walter

[Viper04]

Walter

thank you for the heads up. Looks like mine did almost the

same. We have an old school discount supply house in town that has a ton of black pipe. Between the store in town and Lowe's or the pool supply place 

I should get a fix just wish I knew how to make it better but it lasted 23 years so if I get half of that I'll be happy. 
 

thx

 

Tim

[georgecederholm]

16 hours ago, Viper04 said:

Walter

thank you for the heads up. Looks like mine did almost the

same. We have an old school discount supply house in town that has a ton of black pipe. Between the store in town and Lowe's or the pool supply place 

I should get a fix just wish I knew how to make it better but it lasted 23 years so if I get half of that I'll be happy. 
 

thx

 

Tim

Tim,

You are absolutely right that 23 years is an excellent lifespan for this design.

Just an FYI: if you can’t find the 1.5” “spa hose”, or want a solution that’s easier to work with, all is not lost. You can get a PVC bushing that converts to 1” or 1.25” threaded and use barb fittings to replace the spa hose with braided flexible plastic. Lighter and easier to work with, and will handle the volume of whatever you dump down the sink just fine.

Also, when you’re changing out the ABS, pay close attention to the sliding mechanism that secures the top end of the spa hose. It has to move in and out freely, primarily because probably the only component forcing it to move is the ABS pipe. Mine was binding just a little and I ended up with a crack in a “clean out Y” just aft of the stove cabinet. When I fixed it, I added angle iron bracing along the ABS run to the sliding part (I think it’s referred to sometimes as a ‘trolley’) to shift the force away from the plastic. Write-up in the “Files” section.