Travis k Posted July 23, 2023 Share Posted July 23, 2023 I could use some help. I have a 2004 Monaco executive with the Cummins ism 500. I’ve had it less than a year but have made several trips and it has been flawless up until now. We just drove 5 hours to our vacation spot without any issues what so ever. As soon as we pulled into the resort the engine died and I lost all power to the instrument panel and Allison controller. Absolutely nothing would happen when you turned the key either way. Opened the engine compartment to check the cutoff switch and fuses but all looked fine. Got back in the coach less than five minutes later and it started right up. Drove from the office to our site and it died again right as we got in our site. Waited a couple of minutes and it started back up again like nothing happened… It has been sitting the past five days and now we’re getting ready to make the 5 hour trip back home tomorrow. I’m worried that it’s going to die again while we’re going 65 down the interstate this time. Has anyone ran into this issue or have any idea what this might be? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobdinsmore Posted July 23, 2023 Share Posted July 23, 2023 Maybe the ignition switch? Just a thought. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JDCrow Posted July 23, 2023 Share Posted July 23, 2023 How hot is it? Coolant level? We had a 525 Cummins in one of our Semis and If the coolant was down even slightly, it would just shut off from a low level coolant. I had it happen to me coming down a Pass (Ochoco) and thought I was a goner. Barely found a place to get over before air ran out and locked her up. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cowpoke Posted July 23, 2023 Share Posted July 23, 2023 I'd check and make sure all the posts on the chassis batteries are clean and tight and your cut off switch. Sounds electrical and that can be a big head ache.. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacwjames Posted July 23, 2023 Share Posted July 23, 2023 You might try cycling your chassis disconnect. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1nolaguy Posted July 23, 2023 Share Posted July 23, 2023 I do not have an answer for your emmediate problem and hope you find the cause and get it corrected quickly. For the future, I suggest you invest in a Scan gauge-D. A few years ago I had a similar issue and it scared the hell out of me. I later bought the SG and installed it. Now if there is an issue the gauge gives me error codes (similar to the scan at a shop) that will help in diagnosing the issue and that with Google will at least provide some guidance as to how to fix. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Bergamo Posted July 23, 2023 Share Posted July 23, 2023 There is an ignition solenoid on the bottom of the buss bar in the front run bay below driver. It controls all of your chassis ignition functions. I believe it is a Cole-Hersee 85 amp continuous duty solenoid. Here is a great deal on one, https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/cole-hersee-continuous-duty-solenoid-spst-12v-insulated-base-normally-open-contacts-continuous-rating-85a-24115-bx/11044595-p?c3ch=PLA&c3nid=11044595-P&adtype=pla&product_channel=online&store_code=&&&&&gbraid=0AAAAAD05GhWiIY2VJW9csskHbdhK4D-x7&gclid=Cj0KCQjw_O2lBhCFARIsAB0E8B_7MXsrTzfMUFhX47NbhxEH41MJjvpM9SAZGZO0om0kDBkmKhG7xZQaAlEOEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds. Hope this helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Travis k Posted July 23, 2023 Author Share Posted July 23, 2023 Thanks for the replies. Temp and fluid levels are all good but I know that’s not what’s causing it. It is hot here though, 108 when we got here the other day. I’ve tested the chassis battery cut off switch and it’s wired in a way that even if you turn it off while the engine is running it will continue to run off the alternator. I’m leaning towards some kind of solenoid or possibly the ignition switch but I don’t know which solenoid it would be. I don’t have any in my front compartment. Just 3 in the engine bay along with a few small silver 30amp breakers. Here are pictures of both my compartments. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Travis k Posted July 23, 2023 Author Share Posted July 23, 2023 Does any one happen to know where or which one the ignition solenoid is? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timaz996 Posted July 23, 2023 Share Posted July 23, 2023 Also check your connector plug on you engine ECU. Unplug it and plug it back in. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmw188 Posted July 23, 2023 Share Posted July 23, 2023 Did you happen to fill up with fuel just before stopping at your destination? Check for water in fuel perhaps. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Al redcay Posted July 23, 2023 Share Posted July 23, 2023 I had the same thing happen to me in 2005 Monaco & I replaced my battery cut off switch on dash & my cut off switch in battery compartment, problem solved. Take switch apart in compartment a put wires together see if that solves your problems. Ps disconnect battery first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacwjames Posted July 23, 2023 Share Posted July 23, 2023 Do you have a way to run diagnostics. If you have any type of display (Aladdin) I think it might have ability to display codes. I checked in the downloads section and there is not a wiring diagram for an Executive BUT here is one for a 2004 Signature which may be very close to yours. Starting on page ~65 is the section that has diagrams of some of the electrical bays. Have not really looked at them, unfortunately they are a scanned copy and hard to read and you can't search. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacwjames Posted July 23, 2023 Share Posted July 23, 2023 On page 103 there is a wiring diagram for the front run bay not too far past his is a page has rear run bay 117 has front run bay info I noticed on one diagram you have a number of circuit breakers. You might try cycling all of these on/off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Cherry Posted July 23, 2023 Share Posted July 23, 2023 10 hours ago, Travis k said: Thanks for the replies. Temp and fluid levels are all good but I know that’s not what’s causing it. It is hot here though, 108 when we got here the other day. I’ve tested the chassis battery cut off switch and it’s wired in a way that even if you turn it off while the engine is running it will continue to run off the alternator. I’m leaning towards some kind of solenoid or possibly the ignition switch but I don’t know which solenoid it would be. I don’t have any in my front compartment. Just 3 in the engine bay along with a few small silver 30amp breakers. Here are pictures of both my compartments. All comments are logical, but your Exec, is the PRE 2005 vintage and there was a lot of changing going on on, then, in 2006, totally (my opinion) different. My first stop…..go buy an ignition switch. Here is the best information we have… I suspect you have a Borg Warner CS81 same as Advanced Auto 5971195 from a 1971 Chevy PU. From a PREVIOUS post. I THINK these are the ones with a hole for a large unbent paper clip. Many YouTube Videos on how to install.... it comes from this recent topic….good reading PAST THAT. Not being disrespectful, but some have suggested things or items that may be unique to their model. For example, I do NOT know (but really question) if you have the “Chassis Solenoid”. The 07 version of your coach has a totally different, at least to me, chassis system. The best way is to pull your prints and find the one with the ignition switch on it and look for a solenoid or what powers the engine. We, unfortunately, have frustrated many members that went looking for a specific component that was NOT on their rig. YES on some rigs….that was exactly the problem….but if it ain’t on yours….?.? you have already eliminated the disconnect switch. My “rule of thumb”. Check battery terminals. THEN, chase the Ground cable and clean the ground stud connections on the Chassis and House. Usually, these are high current, like starting the generator or engine or maybe recharging events. Yours is an open circuit and it is probably a loose connection (like behind the ignition switch) or one that is getting too much current and due to the heat, the connection is arcing or opening up. Let it cool down… NOW…I too, have had a gremlin….drive it for hours….all works (my slides). Drive it across town from storage….NO JOY. i FINALL found it…and it was a High Current issue and the totally reliable House Cut Off switch has a tiny glitch….just enough to knock off a volt…but when there is an 80 A load, that puts a strain on the motor…. Conversely…..you probably have a low current “open” circuit….heat and vibration are notoriously bad to help you “realize them”….but equally elusive in tracking down. switch first….then prints and following the ignition circuit. You can waste a lot of time looking for a ghost…without a VOM or maybe even, I learned the hard way.., a circuit tracer….but prints have to tell you WHERE to look. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Cherry Posted July 23, 2023 Share Posted July 23, 2023 OK….again….find the PRINTS….one at a TIME. The Front/REAR start switch is a major culprit, YES…it looks OK. Cycle the FRONT/REAR/OFF switch several times. That switch has resulted in more “Silly me….I found it…posts than Carter had little liver pills (if you are that old)…LOL. Make sure it is properly pushed for FRONT. Even reach around and push the wires tightly on the contacts. That would be my ##2## suspect (Ignition switch is still top dog). OK…the same picture, which I assume is the REAR. Yes, there are TWO solenoids on the lower left side. The big rascal in the center is the BOOST solenoid. Look at the prints…if one is for the House and one for the Chassis…then that could be an issue. With batteries disconnected…pull the terminals….verify the control wires (small) are tight and tighten the lugs. BUT….here is the issue. You gotta KNOW what circuits and devices it turns ON or gives power to… REPEAT….You MUST know exactly WHAT circuits are on it and what it powers. If it powers some things that WORKED….with the KEY ON….and the engine just shut down…leave the key on….and then see what, if anything, still works. OK….getting DEEP here. IF there IS an Ignition controlled Chassis Solenoid and IF the contacts are flaky….as in it got really HOT….do this. Go to a NAPA. Buy a 781144 jumper. They make a black one… both are #4 wire and the same…maybe a bit longer. 12” is the longest I would use. Carry this. If it happens again, then JUMPER as in put this on each large stud of the solenoid…..drive. When you stop for longer than than 30 minutes….undo one side…put a styrofoam cup on the other. Disconnect when you get to the CG again… BTW….does the connector in the top PCB look toasted and burned? That may be an issue? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luther Taylor Posted July 23, 2023 Share Posted July 23, 2023 I had the same problem, it was a fuel supply problem with mine. Changed fuel filters and now use Diesel Kleen and Killezz every fill up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Solution Travis k Posted July 23, 2023 Author Solution Share Posted July 23, 2023 (edited) Thanks for all the help. Somehow made it 4.5 hours home without an issue and it died as soon as I pulled in the driveway. Got out my meter and test light and finally traced it to this breaker. Just in case anyone else ever had this issue… just had to trace the yellow ignition wire from the ignition switch on the diagram. Edited July 23, 2023 by Travis k Added info 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Al redcay Posted July 23, 2023 Share Posted July 23, 2023 So was the wire broken or what caused it to shut down? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Travis k Posted July 23, 2023 Author Share Posted July 23, 2023 (edited) It’s the ignition breaker and it was tripping. It’d cool down in 5 minutes or so and work again. Edited July 23, 2023 by Travis k Correction 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Al redcay Posted July 23, 2023 Share Posted July 23, 2023 So all you had to do was replace the breaker,that’s an easy fix . All I had to do was replace my battery cut off switch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Travis k Posted July 23, 2023 Author Share Posted July 23, 2023 Yes sir. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dennis.mcdonaugh Posted July 23, 2023 Share Posted July 23, 2023 9 hours ago, tmw188 said: Did you happen to fill up with fuel just before stopping at your destination? Check for water in fuel perhaps. That wouldn't affect the instrument panel. His symptoms point to an electrical problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmw188 Posted July 23, 2023 Share Posted July 23, 2023 56 minutes ago, dennis.mcdonaugh said: That wouldn't affect the instrument panel. His symptoms point to an electrical problem. Yeah I didn’t remember the mention of the ignition switch. I guess I need to take some Prevagen. 🤷 9 hours ago, Luther Taylor said: I had the same problem, it was a fuel supply problem with mine. Changed fuel filters and now use Diesel Kleen and Killezz every fill up. I guess you need some Prevagen too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Cherry Posted July 23, 2023 Share Posted July 23, 2023 32 minutes ago, tmw188 said: Yeah I didn’t remember the mention of the ignition switch. I guess I need to take some Prevagen. 🤷 I guess you need some Prevagen too. OK....take this with a chuckle....that was the posed about 12 hours ago (13th, if I count right) ......with info as well as a link to another similar issue....so it seemed like a viable solution..... If Prevagen is some sort of ADHD designer drug, then, yes...sometimes I need it too. DOUBLE LOL. BUY A NEW CIRCUIT BREAKER....OR, if there is an overload and it actually is doing its job....start figuring out WHY there is excess current draw. My bet is on a worn out and tired CB...but I've been wrong before... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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