1nolaguy Posted August 8, 2023 Share Posted August 8, 2023 I checked my chassis batteries today in anticipation of leaving on a trip this weekend and noticed that while in storage they had depleted to 12.15v. I put them on a charger and brought them back to 13.5v but I realized they were made in Sept 2018. That in mind I know I need to replace them. They are not necessarily OEM spec being install by the PO just prior to sale. Our 2005 Safari Cheetah has a CAT C7 engine and the batteries are two type 31T SLA with 950 CCA. In checking the reference books at the local auto parts store they say I should use a type 31T 650 but they have no 31T in stock. The sales rep suggested type 650 with 800 CCA. Before I go any further does anyone know what is spec for this engine or where I can find that? My second question question is "are battery type" for automotive more about size and terminal placement ad as long as I have sufficient CCA I should be good? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr4Film Posted August 8, 2023 Share Posted August 8, 2023 (edited) Group 31 with 950 CCA is what you should have to spin the engine properly. Here is one example. https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/traveller-31-heavy-duty-battery Edited August 8, 2023 by Dr4Film Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vito.a Posted August 8, 2023 Share Posted August 8, 2023 Yes. Get two group 31 batteries with the highest CCA you can. Have yours tested before you replace them. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Bergamo Posted August 9, 2023 Share Posted August 9, 2023 47 minutes ago, vito.a said: Have yours tested before you replace them. Yes, load test them. No use replacing them if they test good? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rikadoo Posted August 9, 2023 Share Posted August 9, 2023 Since im planning a trip out east in Sept, i just replaced all 6 of my batteries, 4 of the coach batteries an the 2 chassis batteries, they were not testing bad, however they were 5 years old, so I used the Interstates we sell from my shop. The two chassis batteries were 950 CCA, even when i worked for Ford if the vehicle came with 650 cca, we would replace with the 850 cca, heavy battery with more cca. Manufactures are ALL about saving where they can, there mentality comes from the bean counters, sell a 100k units an you cut $1.00 on each one sold you do the math!!! ya want proof pull the fill plug on EVERY rear differential on EVERY ford truck!!! Right off the carrier there all 3/4 qt low, why? Do the math! They may be low, but they get thru warranty, AND thats why when you take your truck in for service the recomendation is to drain an refiill the rear diff… 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jdw12345 Posted August 9, 2023 Share Posted August 9, 2023 Imo, it sounds like you are at home, change them out for new, at five years old they are subject to failure, do you really want to be dealing with this on the road somewhere, if so leave them in and run them till they die! JMO Most definitely get group 31 950 cca, most truck repair shops should have them on hand. NAPA Peterbilt Kenworth Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1nolaguy Posted August 9, 2023 Author Share Posted August 9, 2023 9 hours ago, Frank Bergamo said: Yes, load test them. No use replacing them if they test good? Frank, I load tested them last year and they were still good then but age combined with the extreme heat this summer while it has been in storage I am thinking now is a wise time to change them. 8 hours ago, Jdw12345 said: Imo, it sounds like you are at home, change them out for new, at five years old they are subject to failure, do you really want to be dealing with this on the road somewhere, if so leave them in and run them till they die! JMO Most definitely get group 31 950 cca, most truck repair shops should have them on hand. NAPA Peterbilt Kenworth Jeff, my thoughts exactly. I would not mind changing them on the road but I do not want to be caught with a dead battery on the road. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1nolaguy Posted August 9, 2023 Author Share Posted August 9, 2023 10 hours ago, Dr4Film said: Group 31 with 950 CCA is what you should have to spin the engine properly. Here is one example. https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/traveller-31-heavy-duty-battery Richard, do you recommend the TS battery over better known Duracell, Interstate or NAPA or are they all about the same? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Cherry Posted August 9, 2023 Share Posted August 9, 2023 11 hours ago, 1nolaguy said: I checked my chassis batteries today in anticipation of leaving on a trip this weekend and noticed that while in storage they had depleted to 12.15v. I put them on a charger and brought them back to 13.5v but I realized they were made in Sept 2018. That in mind I know I need to replace them. They are not necessarily OEM spec being install by the PO just prior to sale. Our 2005 Safari Cheetah has a CAT C7 engine and the batteries are two type 31T SLA with 950 CCA. In checking the reference books at the local auto parts store they say I should use a type 31T 650 but they have no 31T in stock. The sales rep suggested type 650 with 800 CCA. Before I go any further does anyone know what is spec for this engine or where I can find that? My second question question is "are battery type" for automotive more about size and terminal placement ad as long as I have sufficient CCA I should be good? My thoughts a bit late….but, the comments are spot on. At the end of this post is a “paper” that several asked me to put together for a better understanding of our batteries. It is aimed more at House…but read it. I will comment on the chassis Put in a 950CCA. NO LESS. 12.15 VDC means your existing Chassis was drained. That, unless they were on a seperate charger or you have rewired/upgraded your Cheetah to charge BOTH banks during storage would NOT be unexpected. If you charge them back up, then turn on the headlights for maybe a few minutes to take off the quick “surface charge”, then let them sit for a few minutes…measure the voltage. That tells you the State of Charge…the table works for starting as well as deep cycle. As long as they settle down and are say 12.37 (70%) or higher…I’d keep them. Age can be a factor, but we have folks using 7 & 8 Year old House. I typically get, from my Interstate Chassis, 7 years. I can buy the 31M-HD or something like that, a group 31 - 950 CCA cheaper from an Interstate distributor than the 750’s sold by Sams or Costco. I like them as nationwide…I, can get a replacement and prorated costs. Exide used to make NAPA…same deal…NAPA is everywhere. I paid a smidge, I think, over $250 for BOTH of them 2 years ago…total…not each. A single Jumper cable is my “emergency”. I am a proponent of NEVER Jump starting. Turn off BOTH banks. Use the positive from PLUS to PLUS. Hook up the negative if you like…but I keep my negative ground studs clean. The. Turn on BOTH banks. Start the Genny…let if run awhile to top off the House…then crank it. No RISK of an errant high voltage spike. That, due to our electonics is the safest…IMHO. Most of our engines will pull upwards of 1300 or more CCA. Monaco USED to put the 950 in the lower ends…got cheap. My Camelot’s were 750…now 950…which is what was in the Dynasty with the SAME engine. MORE is better…you sill not depelete them due to frewueent starting snd stopping. That’s my unsolicited advice….lots of folks agree…maybe not on my brand choice…but the above is what has worked for me… ONE last tip. After a long drive, say 3 hours and maybe 90 deg temps. Shut down the rig (rest stop..maybe). Wait maybe 10 minutes…with the FRONT AC ON…turn the key. If you get that OMG…it ain’t gonna START…brief hesitation, time to think about new ones….not tomorrow but with a few months. That’s the best REAL LOAD test you can run. Engine is HOT. Compression is high. Takes a heap of AMPS to crank. This assumes a stock starter and no cavling or other issues….trust that! Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr4Film Posted August 9, 2023 Share Posted August 9, 2023 (edited) 2 hours ago, 1nolaguy said: Richard, do you recommend the TS battery over better known Duracell, Interstate or NAPA or are they all about the same? I purchased Duracell's from Sam's Club as that's where we were parked for the night when the coach engine batteries crapped out. We had just picked up the coach from the consignment dealer the day before. https://www.samsclub.com/p/duracell-commercial-battery-group-size-31c/prod3590235 As long as the specs are the same it shouldn't make much difference as there are not that many battery manufactures in the country. They just put a different name on them depending on the dealer/vendor. Edited August 9, 2023 by Dr4Film 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96 EVO Posted August 9, 2023 Share Posted August 9, 2023 Replaced my 950CCA GR31's last year, just for piece of mind! They replaced a pair of 8yr olds that were still cranking the engine / generator well. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ivylog Posted August 9, 2023 Share Posted August 9, 2023 (edited) 12.15 is 55%…why do you think that hurt them? Do a load test by using one battery at a time to start. Even maintenance free have caps under the hard plastic tops. Use a hydrometer and see if you have a bad cell. If everything checks out, I wouldn’t replace as I got 10+ years out of my Interstate 31s. Edited August 9, 2023 by Ivylog 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1nolaguy Posted August 9, 2023 Author Share Posted August 9, 2023 Dick, I did not realize that there were caps under the hard shell tops. I thought the maintenance free acid batteries were the same as SLA. Because of a medical issue our trip planto leave tomorrow is on hold so maybe next week I can take a day and go check it out. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Donald Posted August 10, 2023 Share Posted August 10, 2023 Purchase our at Sam Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bryan browne Posted August 10, 2023 Share Posted August 10, 2023 when it comes to starting batteries I always choose the highest Cranking amps I can get in the battery case size needed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Cherry Posted August 10, 2023 Share Posted August 10, 2023 14 hours ago, 1nolaguy said: Dick, I did not realize that there were caps under the hard shell tops. I thought the maintenance free acid batteries were the same as SLA. Because of a medical issue our trip planto leave tomorrow is on hold so maybe next week I can take a day and go check it out. @1nolaguy Two THINGS... YES....and a BIG HERE IT COMES....BUT...., there should or maybe should be caps. But, many folks have experimented and some manufacturers will "seal" (that is why they call them Sealed or Maintenance Free. Getting the tops off can also be a bit of a safety issue. As a retired Division Safety Director, I can only suggest, strongly, that if you take out your trusty Swiss Army knife (my amazing can do everything tool...LOL) and use it or a screwdriver or a thin pry tool... WEAR EYE PROTECTION...Not just your glasses, but wrap around clear plastic glasses with side shields. They are called "Lab Glasses" and you can find some that fit easily over regular eye wear... Also, don't wear the favorite shirt that you have kept over the years and it was the one that you wore when you "popped the question". I wear old clothes...and they always have holes. I have seen some SEALED batteries that it would take the incredible Hulk to open...and then they might not get properly sealed again...and others. YES, they advertise Maintenance free...but there is a slot or you trim off a label and they pop up and then go back in place. @Ivylog and others, as well as myself are all saying the same thing. 12.15...after sitting for a while is NOT THAT BAD. BUT, the simple test...and you can easily do this...Recharge them... Then let sit for maybe an hour or two. Then turn on the headlights for a few minutes.... THEN OFF...and let it sit or at least 30 minutes. NOW...Remove one of the Jumpers so that they are NOT connected in Parallel... Then Measure each ONE. Anything above 12.3X or so is fine...that means they will recharge to 70% of their ORIGINAL or they are only 30% depleted. NONE of us run batteries that are 100%. They AGE...but as long as they will recharge back to 70%, they are GREAT. I would NOT be surprised if yours were closer to 100%. That is the ONLY way. Now as to pulling them and taking them to a shop. YES, they have a test rig. Some are OLD and some are NEW. BUT, you have to understand that they will be measured against some sort of SPEC or maybe a "Color Meter". Here is the LOGIC. 950 CCA Times 2 gives you 1900 CCA. Your engine will pull in the 1300 Amp range...maybe 1200 or maybe 1500....unless you get someone to put a clamp on Ammeter and test...you do NOT know...but many of us have done this. OK...assuming you have 950 CCA batteries...70% or 12.32 VDC (after they sat) means you have 1900 CCA times 70% or 1330 CCA. BINGO...you are fine... NOW, if you have the 750 CCA, which no one recommends.., then 70% of 1500 CCA is 1050. NOW that is getting marginal. Bottom LINE...you will get MORE years of service from 950 than 750 CCA and you can run them longer. Please review the posts and then decide whether you really need to "Take apart something that was designed NOT TO BE TAKEN APART"... Hope this helps... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1nolaguy Posted August 10, 2023 Author Share Posted August 10, 2023 Thanks for the clarification Tom. Having been "burned" by H2SO4 before I know about the safety glass issue but it is good that you stated it clearly. I have a friend that has a portable test unit for testing batteries and I will use that. Thanks also for the explanation, and now I know why there are 2 chassis batteries and not one. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Cherry Posted August 10, 2023 Share Posted August 10, 2023 4 hours ago, 1nolaguy said: Thanks for the clarification Tom. Having been "burned" by H2SO4 before I know about the safety glass issue but it is good that you stated it clearly. I have a friend that has a portable test unit for testing batteries and I will use that. Thanks also for the explanation, and now I know why there are 2 chassis batteries and not one. WORD of CAUTION. UNLESS that portable gives direct read outs or such and UNLESS you use the same Protocols as in Charge me up. Let me Sit. Take off my surface charge. Let me sit.... THEN TEST ME....it matters NOT whether it is a Load Tester or a VOM. YES. there is a carbon pile or other "draw down" device in the tester. BUT the Daddy Rabbit of batteries, Trojan's say to do the storage with a VOM and Hydrometer. BUT, if the Voltage is correct...that is what it will do. Now, maybe the tester will work...and I have had Interstate replace several in my old Hummer as there was a parasitic drain...and they would not last for more than 6 months and GM gave up on isolating it. BUT, the Chief Interstate Tech, whom I got to know... LOL...said that his "expensive" tester was usually used for "YES, you DO need a new battery" and he gave me a loaner batter to properly recharge and test. SO, I would make doubly sure that It was fully charged. The Tester will draw it down. BUT, I do NOT know if it will give you an accurate number since most were designed for Automotive batteries. I would trust, but VERIFY...as in doing the accepted VOM test before I wasted money on new ones.. After all.. If you carry a pair of Jumper Cables...that is the easiest as well as the SAFEST way to get out of a fix. Did a little research, the "under $100 Portables" are good, supposedly, for testing 1000 CCA, but designed more for the 750 CCA or common auto batteries. The kind that Interstate uses is a Commercial, Carbon Pile type and the name brands sell for $300 or more. THERE is a difference... and my pocketbook would like to have good info before laying out $$ and not needing to... BUT, that is just my logic... Good Luck. If you decide to perform the standard test...would be good to know what the tester says...who knows.....they might agree...or not....let us know...we all learn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1nolaguy Posted August 11, 2023 Author Share Posted August 11, 2023 4 hours ago, Tom Cherry said: WORD of CAUTION. UNLESS that portable gives direct read outs or such and UNLESS you use the same Protocols as in Charge me up. Let me Sit. Take off my surface charge. Let me sit.... THEN TEST ME....it matters NOT whether it is a Load Tester or a VOM. YES. there is a carbon pile or other "draw down" device in the tester. BUT the Daddy Rabbit of batteries, Trojan's say to do the storage with a VOM and Hydrometer. BUT, if the Voltage is correct...that is what it will do. Now, maybe the tester will work...and I have had Interstate replace several in my old Hummer as there was a parasitic drain...and they would not last for more than 6 months and GM gave up on isolating it. BUT, the Chief Interstate Tech, whom I got to know... LOL...said that his "expensive" tester was usually used for "YES, you DO need a new battery" and he gave me a loaner batter to properly recharge and test. SO, I would make doubly sure that It was fully charged. The Tester will draw it down. BUT, I do NOT know if it will give you an accurate number since most were designed for Automotive batteries. I would trust, but VERIFY...as in doing the accepted VOM test before I wasted money on new ones.. After all.. If you carry a pair of Jumper Cables...that is the easiest as well as the SAFEST way to get out of a fix. Did a little research, the "under $100 Portables" are good, supposedly, for testing 1000 CCA, but designed more for the 750 CCA or common auto batteries. The kind that Interstate uses is a Commercial, Carbon Pile type and the name brands sell for $300 or more. THERE is a difference... and my pocketbook would like to have good info before laying out $$ and not needing to... BUT, that is just my logic... Good Luck. If you decide to perform the standard test...would be good to know what the tester says...who knows.....they might agree...or not....let us know...we all learn Yep, the tester is a commercial unit for truck batteries. My neighbor owns a small fleet of tractor trailers and tour busses. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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