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Cummins ISL Overhead


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Hello everyone.

I recently joined the Monacoers community and thought I'd post up a few pictures and a video of a recent procedure that I have performed on our Cummins ISL in our 2003 Monaco Dynasty.

 

The beginning of the process was to raise and support the rear of the coach to allow access to remove the starter motor.  Then bar the engine over to cylinder #1 TDC and start removing components.  Rocker cover, compression brake housings and then rocker box were all removed.  Then the actual valve adjustment could commence on half the valves.

 

Our coach has over 140k miles on it and Cummins recommends this procedure to be performed @ 150k.  All of my valves were tight by a few thousandths.  Once I set each valve at the correct setting, Intake valves @ .012" and Exhaust valves @ .022", and torque the jam nut to specification, I mark each rocker with a paint pen to ensure I don't miss any.

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Continuing on with the process.

I barred the engine over one revolution to get the engine to cylinder #6 TDC, then adjusted the remaining 6-valves.

 

Cleaned the rocker box and added sealant and reinstalled, torqued the rocker box to 212 in/lbs. then cleaned the rocker cover, bead blasted the intake elbow and painted as well as cleaned the intake ducting tubes and hoses.

 

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Lastly, installed the Jacobs C-Brake (compression brake) and rocker cover before completely buttoning everything up in the engine bay.

 

 

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Also, here is my video of the overhead procedure for those who are interested.

 

 

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38 minutes ago, Scotty Hutto said:

Great stuff Mike!  I’ve followed you on IRV2 for a while and glad you’re on here!  

 

9 minutes ago, Ray Davis said:

YEA, We got him.    Welcome Mike.

 

Thanks guys.  Much appreciated.

1 minute ago, timaz996 said:

Glad to see you here Mike. Both forums are a wealth of information.

 

Thanks Tim.

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4 hours ago, Scotty Hutto said:

Great stuff Mike!  I’ve followed you on IRV2 for a while and glad you’re on here!  

Same!

Mike would be a huge loss to IRV Monaco owners, and a fantastic gain for this forum!

He tackles everything that comes up on his Monaco coach, and best of all, films it all for other owners 👍!

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13 hours ago, Jdw12345 said:

Glad to see you have joined us Mike! You’re a great asset to Monaco owners!

 

12 hours ago, 96 EVO said:

Same!

Mike would be a huge loss to IRV Monaco owners, and a fantastic gain for this forum!

He tackles everything that comes up on his Monaco coach, and best of all, films it all for other owners 👍!

 

Thank you both.  I greatly appreciate the comments.

 

I hope to have some new videos coming in the near future that I hope will be helpful for fellow Monaco owners.

 

 

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3 minutes ago, cbr046 said:

We have a place for videos, just for Monaco owners - https://www.youtube.com/@Monacoers-kx1zb

- bob

 

I saw the Monacoers group had YouTube channel and recently subscribed.  I would be ok with linking my Monaco videos to that page.  I just didn't think that was something we do ourselves. 

I have quite a few videos on my channel specific to Monaco coaches such as FASS fuel pump install, skylight replacement, Guardian plate installs on various slide floor designs and I'm sure there are some I'm leaving out.

I am working on one explaining the vertical trailing arm support gussets that I added to ours and plan on doing one showing the Onan Quiet Diesel valve adjustment when the parts arrive that can be posted as well.   I'm good with sharing anything that will help fellow Monaco owners.

 

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1 hour ago, zmotorsports said:

 

  Guardian plate installs on various slide floor designs and I'm sure there are some I'm leaving out.

 

 

Mike, I'm willing to bet the majority of us that have installed our own Guardian plates watched your install video's before tackling the project 👍!

If I decide it's time for new bearings in my Webasto, I'll surely be looking for your video to review!

Edited by 96 EVO
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Thanks for posting this for us.  I had a couple of questions for you.  I was wondering why you bead blasted and painted the intake elbow?  Were you concerned with corrosion contaminating the intake or was it just for cosmetics? What setting did you use for the jakes?  I recently ran the overhead on my ISL and set the jakes to .090.  I was considering going a little tighter to help the performance but decided to go with quick serve.  I have always thought that my jakes are a little weak comparing them to how others have told me their jakes perform.  

Thanks again for sharing your expertise.

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1 hour ago, 96 EVO said:

Mike, I'm willing to bet the majority of us that have installed our own Guardian plates watched your install video's before tackling the project 👍!

If I decide it's time for new bearings in my Webasto, I'll surely be looking for your video to review!

 

Thanks.  I know Chris from Talen asked me if he could link my videos to his channel so I figured there were at least one or two people who've seen them.  🤣

 

As for the Webasto unit. I almost forgot that I have a couple of Aqua-Hot videos and for some reason those seem to be quite popular.  🤔

 

 

56 minutes ago, beemerman said:

Thanks for posting this for us.  I had a couple of questions for you.  I was wondering why you bead blasted and painted the intake elbow?  Were you concerned with corrosion contaminating the intake or was it just for cosmetics? What setting did you use for the jakes?  I recently ran the overhead on my ISL and set the jakes to .090.  I was considering going a little tighter to help the performance but decided to go with quick serve.  I have always thought that my jakes are a little weak comparing them to how others have told me their jakes perform.  

Thanks again for sharing your expertise.

 

Thank you.  I bead blasted and painted the intake elbow for aesthetics mainly.  In my experience raw cast aluminum doesn't bode well in a dirty environment as the pores get contaminated with filth.  I figured by glass beading and painting it would seal off the pores and make future cleaning easier.  When I'm in the engine bay a quick wipe with cleaner and a shop towel should do the trick.

I too adjusted my Jacobs compression brake to the recommended setting of .090".  I'm not sure any tighter would do much in terms of performance, in fact I think it might hinder it.  A few thousandths one way or the other shouldn't matter, but I'm a stickler for details so I set them exactly @ .090" even though they were very close initially.  Much tighter and I don't think they'd allow the exhaust valve to properly close as it relies on the oil pressure to bleed off so normal valve function can continue.  I think if it is too tight that may be a problem but I've never tried it so I have no personal experience.  Just a hunch.

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Mikes FASS install video is a must see if planning on doing your own. Watch it a few times and it will all come together and make sense. The fooler relay for the old lift pump is something that could get missed if you don’t understand the need for it. Thanks Mike for your time in making the videos. 
Todd

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23 minutes ago, tmw188 said:

Mikes FASS install video is a must see if planning on doing your own. Watch it a few times and it will all come together and make sense. The fooler relay for the old lift pump is something that could get missed if you don’t understand the need for it. Thanks Mike for your time in making the videos. 
Todd

Thank you. I appreciate the comments and glad it was helpful.

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Wow, that's scary. Was it an exhaust valve and the one that's operated by the brake? Are you looking for possible connection with a bad adjustment or adjustment that should have but wasn't done? Based on mileage? Is it known how the valve failed? Bent, broken, stuck open? If the brake piston got stuck, that would be a problem holding the valve open but probably not adjustment related if it was fine until then. Unless the locknut wasn’t tight and allowed the adjustment to get way out of hand. Just my opinion.

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I'm not sure what could cause a valve to drop that could be related to the compression brake.  I would think even if the adjustment was incorrect, I can't think why it would cause damage.  I would ask the same questions as Ivan.  Was the adjustment skipped and you don't know what the lash actually was?  Or was it a fluke scenario where a valve keeper failed and allowed the valve to drop contacting the piston and resulting in the severe damage?  

 

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1 hour ago, dl_racing427 said:

I could be wrong, but I wouldn't think the Jake would be physically capable of lifting the valve enough to contact the piston.
All it needs to do is bleed off compression, so full valve lift isn't necessary.

I would hope that the design would prevent interference but there isn't this kind of published info that I could find. With the engine open, it could be easily determined whether that is a possibility but unless the failed valve is the one operated by jake, all this is pointless. Could be just a coincidence that it happened at that time.

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I asked the Cummins Service guy and he didn't think there is a connection between using the C-brake and the fact that the valve went bad.

Cummins said sometimes parts just go bad and break.  Its been a tough couple of weeks!

Thanks for all your feedback,

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

So now Cummins is telling me the whole engine needs replaced. They say the cylinder walls are pitted to such a degree that they can't be bored out. 

Now I am waiting for a new engine cost estimate.  This was going to be our last year with the coach. 

So now the question is: What should I do?  Put in a new engine and sell it, or try and sell it as is.

Suggestions?

 

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