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My land yacht is listing to starboard


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Experts, I want to enlist your knowledge and know how to help me diagnose and repair (without surgery if possible), why my ‘03 Signature with tag is leaning to the passenger side after I’ve not driven it for a few days. I normally turn off both battery banks when not in use. 
Recently, I had an air hose and reel attached to the coach on the driver’s side and the mechanic plugged it into an air reservoir on the driver’s side as well. I then found that I already had a nozzle to hook up an air hose next to my propane tank, DUH!!

I’m not sure if it’s a coincidence (I don’t believe in them) or what, but now I have this listing or leaning on the passenger side. 
Any idea why it’s leaning or listing and how I can check to see what the issue is and most importantly how it can be rectified before it becomes a real pain in the rectified place!? And hoping it’s on the cheap

And yes, that is my Land “Cruiser” next to it (passenger side) . . . a gift from my wife!!

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Edited by Keith H.
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On my 06 HR Scepter that does not have air auto leveling has the same problem, but mine leans to port.  I have been all through the air-ride system, fixed all the leaks (there were a ton of them on the push-lock air line fittings) and changed the rear air ride valve...still have the problem.  I have somewhat determined that these coaches are top heavy and will lean towards the down-slope side if the parking surface is not level (and it does not have to be much out of level to cause this).  So, to fix it where I normally park my RV I built some wood pads to drive onto that levels the ground out and it seemed to fix the problem.  It may not fix your problem, but before spending lots of money investigating try driving the passenger side tires up on some 2x4's (or whatever you have) and see if it helps.  You could also just put down the leveling legs to hold the house up when the air pressure bleeds off.

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On your coach, with a tag axle, and the air leveling system turned off, you have an air leak on the PS drive or PS tag axle air bags, airline connections, airlines to the drive axle ping tank, or leaking air control valve manifold above the drive axle normally on the exhaust valve side. 

Finding the leak will require you to get under the coach with the coach frame safely supported to prevent you from being crushed should an airbag deflate. 

You then need to soap all the fittings, exhaust ports on the air control valve manifold, your two PS drive airbags, the PS tag air bag, and the large air lines from the air bags to the DS ping air tank.  Keep in mind, you could have multiple leaks.

Since your lot looks flat, your other option, while in storage, is, with the steer wheels straight, dump the air from all the air bags.  If you do that, no more listing and about a cheap as it gets.

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My Dynasty was listing towards the Port side this past winter. Took it to Josam's and the first thing they did was to replace all 10 airbags starting with the drive axle which had small holes in it. That did not fix the Port side listing. Took it back to have the remaining six airbags replaced, a new leaking ride height valve in the front and one leaking 6-Pack Air Manifold solenoid in the rear. The amount of listing improved but it still listed to the port. Took it back and they replaced a brand new airbag air fitting that was leaking plus some other air leaks they found. Unfortunately, it was still listing to the port slightly but I was out of time for Josam's to dig into it more.

So, now since my RV parking area at home is fairly level plus the RV Campsite where we are in New Hampshire is also fairly level, I simply dump all of the air then tweak the air level ever so slightly to level it out and it remains there for the duration.

Air leaks will drive you insane plus it will require you to have lots of patience and determination to find ALL of them.

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Your HWH 2000 air ride system probably has dozens of leaks, it just leaks more on the passenger side.

For now, turn the key to on or accessory, then tap the Air button once and press and hold the Dump button down to lower the coach down evenly.  

When you have the time, build some ramps out of 2 x 12 lumber at least three boards thick.  Drive the coach up on these and start to work finding and fixing leaks.  

Good luck!

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8 hours ago, Frank McElroy said:

….Since your lot looks flat, your other option, while in storage, is, with the steer wheels straight, dump the air from all the air bags.  If you do that, no more listing and about a cheap as it gets.

NGL Frank, I do exactly that. Maybe one day, I’ll get around to investigating the root cause, but for now this works for me.

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4 hours ago, Bobkat11208 said:

NGL Frank, I do exactly that. Maybe one day, I’ll get around to investigating the root cause, but for now this works for me.

Not Gonna Lie - haven't heard that one in a while.

Yes, that's an old trick.  On a flat site, most want their coach lower to have the last step closer to the ground. 

The HWH and Valid Power Gear air leveling system do have an auto level feature to first dump all air then level.  I don't think Monaco ever used that program option and most coach owners don't know that in settings they can enable that feature.

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I ALWAYS DUMP my air.  REASON.  I THINK that the lower to the ground, the less "rocking" in winds.  We often camp near the ocean....and always have breezes.  BUT on the lower outer banks of NC, the winds can get up.  SO...I dump the tanks.

THEN, I use the FINGER LEVELING METHOD.  I can do it about as quick as the AUTO.  THEN...

I turn OFF the pump and system and the pesky "Auto LEVEL and the AUX compressor coming on at 3:00 AM is eliminated.  The MH always stays LEVEL.... I do NOT lose air in the leveling system.  YES....the longer that I stay on the site...the more the main tanks drain.  SO, when I start up...  ALARM.  Then it airs up.  Then retract the slides and push the TRAVEL MODE to get ready to roll.

That's what I have been doing for years.  Remember, I have almost 2 YEARS of "nights", over a 12 year period.... and we barely average 2.5 nights per stay.  THAT is a LOT of leveling and slides in and out....

We have no issue with leveling.  I did have to recalibrate the RIDE HEIGHT....after 10 years...

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  • 1 month later...
On 6/9/2024 at 11:06 PM, Tom Cherry said:

I ALWAYS DUMP my air.  REASON.  I THINK that the lower to the ground, the less "rocking" in winds.  We often camp near the ocean....and always have breezes.  BUT on the lower outer banks of NC, the winds can get up.  SO...I dump the tanks.

THEN, I use the FINGER LEVELING METHOD.  I can do it about as quick as the AUTO.  THEN...

I turn OFF the pump and system and the pesky "Auto LEVEL and the AUX compressor coming on at 3:00 AM is eliminated.  The MH always stays LEVEL.... I do NOT lose air in the leveling system.  YES....the longer that I stay on the site...the more the main tanks drain.  SO, when I start up...  ALARM.  Then it airs up.  Then retract the slides and push the TRAVEL MODE to get ready to roll.

That's what I have been doing for years.  Remember, I have almost 2 YEARS of "nights", over a 12 year period.... and we barely average 2.5 nights per stay.  THAT is a LOT of leveling and slides in and out....

We have no issue with leveling.  I did have to recalibrate the RIDE HEIGHT....after 10 years...

Hi Tom, how do you recalibrate ride height?  I’ve recently noticed my ride height has changed. I seem to be riding lower up front than before. I have the air only leveling via Valid. I did check my manual before asking this, but found nothing.

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On 7/23/2024 at 5:11 PM, 96 EVO said:

Paul, there is no adjusting ride height with the Valid keyboard!

Soon as you press 'Travel Mode', the ride height valves attached to the steer & drive axles take over! 

I get that, but Tom mentioned he recalibrated RIDE HEIGHT. I’m unaware of how he did this. My guess is he removed power to the panel for 30 seconds or so.  Is that what is meant by recalibrating RIDE HEIGHT?

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1 hour ago, Ivylog said:

Recalibrating is adjusting the ride height and requires getting under the MH and loosing an adjustment.

Hi Dick, thanks for that. I thought it might require more effort. 
 

Question: I had my coach serviced at Speedco (a five hour long ordeal😡) a few weeks ago, and had the mechanic change my desiccant cartridge. I released all air via the Valid panel prior to removal and replacement of the filter cartridge. As I drove away I immediately noticed the coach seemed lower to the ground and handled a bit sluggishly. Could replacing the cartridge cause this?  

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