Monacoers Daily News
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Discussions
Dr4Film
Jim,
What was the reason for the leak at the return line in the new cooler you had installed?
Or are you waiting to get back home to figure out what happened?
eddie4ne
I replaced the cutoff switch that malfunctioned on our trip to Alaska. The switch wil not shut the power down on any position but the power will turn off if I shut off the house cutoff switch. I then turned the house switch back on with the chassis switch off. Turn on the ignition and nothing for a very short period of time, then the dash comes alive. I disconnected the chassis cutoff switch and the dash still had power. I suspect that the power is back feeding from the house batteries…but how and why!!
I repaced the switch with another Quest brand. The poles on the rear are labeled exactly as the original. The instructions said to connect the feeder and battery the opposite of how the original switch was wired. As per instructions, the wires were crossed when connected. I originally wired it this way and later wired it as the original so I could mount in the original position.
Any thoughts?
engine103
Good morning, thanks Ben, I use the aux compressor to air up when I'm leaving the campsite early in the morning so as not to wake anyone. But even using the engine compressor the air dryer will not purge.
Jim
2000 Signature
Twomed
Let me be more specific...I don't think the guy owns a screwdriver. I know about hyd shops and seals. I am past doing other folks coaches, especially Tiffins. So need a one stop place. Wildwood has been Lazy Days too long I think. My first answer was Talin but he lives over on this side.
Thanks still looking. 😎
myrontruex
Either your switch is bad or you miswired it.
Remove the switch and use an ohmeter to identify how it works. A picture always helps of course.
To prove it is the house batteries at fault you should be able to carefully remove the positive source from them or the ground side. The ground side is safer of course.
tmw188
Here is a pic of my 2002 Windsor setup. So was the malfunction you mentioned on your trip what you described in your post or was that what your experiencing since you changed out the switch? It’s just a switch not a A-B switch so you should be able to wire it either way.
radioman
On 10/6/2023 at 10:45 AM, Nevada Rob said:The coolant tank for the generator is cracked in 4 places. I appears that Cummins/Onan has decided to not produce these tanks any longer. I am guessing Cummins is just like a ziplock bag. Use a little then throw it away and get a new one. I have searched the inter-web for a replacement with zero results. Has anyone tried to plastic weld the tanks as a repair? To have a tank custom built is very costly.
One of the NASCAR team engineers needed one for the owners Bus for a 12.5 and he 3D printed 8 of them. I ask him if he had anymore. He said he sold them to Marathon Coach in Oregon. He thinks he might still have the CAD drawing.
eddie4ne
I thought it was malfunctioning also. When I called the vender he concurred. When I swithced the wires to The configuration in the pic above it still did not shut the power down. Just trying all possibilities, we cut the power to the house at that also cut the power to the chassis. When I took the switch out of the equation, the power still reached the engine with the switch disconnected.
23 minutes ago, myrontruex said:Either your switch is bad or you miswired it.
myrontruex
Feel that large solenoid on the back wall. Then measure the voltage on the purple wire. If the solenoid is warm or hot it is engaged.
If there is voltage on the purple wire the solenoid is engaged and providing engine battery power to the house side.
From there things can be further diagnosed. I don't want to muddy the waters just yet.
OAEVXE
2016 Monaco Diplomat Toyo for sure. Over 10000 miles. They still look new. Came from Michelins, was displeeasaaed with wear and ride.
amphi_sc
We just came down from Sevierville via 441 west to 411 thru Marysville, Benton etc. Stayed off I-40 and I-75 until south of Atlanta. Pleasant drive missing Knoxville and Chattanooga traffic enjoying the countryside. 45' with toad.
1nolaguy
Thanks! I believe that is a standard size for US pressure washers so what fit your will most likely fit others.
jacwjames
9 hours ago, Ivan K said:Are you going all around to west entrance or through the tunnel?
No idea, I read about the tunnel yesterday and will probably try to avoid it.
2 hours ago, Dr4Film said:Jim,
What was the reason for the leak at the return line in the new cooler you had installed?
Or are you waiting to get back home to figure out what happened?
Richard,
It looks like the leak is coming from where the output fitting is attached to the cooler body, hard to see but I suspect it is a failed weld/solder/pressed fit. I can't tell how the fitting is attached. But for the time being I'm not going to fool with it. I was able to use a Street L & 90 & two 3/4" male to #12 JIC male to be able to bypass the cooler.
Attached is a picture of the cooler lower port where it was leaking, the fitting is out as I took it to town to try and match threads but you can see where the hydraulic hose is sitting, there was no stress on the cooler fitting.
Alao a picture of how I bypassed. I knew I couldn't use a union because of the way the hoses were oriented and knew it would have been difficult (if not impossible) to bend/twist the hoses to use a simple union so I may a "U" with the Street L & 90 degree 3/4 inch fittings. Worked out better then I expected.
South West Trip Planning
jacwjames
So I spent a little time looking at options on the rest of the parks I want to visit and decided to head toward Zion and just drive I70 further west unit it merges with another highway and head south. I figure that way I'll be on main roads and closer to services if the need arises.
Assuming I get close to Zion are there any places to boon dock (preferred) or campgrounds.
Ivan had mentioned a tunnel which I had read about, besides the ~$15 cost are there any issues. If the tunnel makes the drive shorter and/or easier I'd like to know what issues there may be taking it? I may not be able to anyway since my total length is close to 57 feet
Gnlandrus
It’s a good way to get to the coast! I have done it about 10-15 times in the last 15 years. Beautiful scenery. Some serious grades, but no problem if you pay attention and take your time!
I started traveling it, driving a Volvo semi towing a Living Quarters horse trailer, 68’ total length, and have done it 6-7 times with my 43’ MH with a toad, 66’ total.
Used it last April !
The Hwy has been improved over the years, and is very good overall!
There is I very nice rest stop we use, about 1/2 way to the coast. Here are the GPS coordinates. 40.882733°, -123.547127. Use google earth to locate it.
Enjoy!!
Croom352
I would try South West Trip Planning
jacwjames
One thing that seems to be in my favor is the weather, very mild at night and seasonally warm during the day, currently heading south and looked at the forecast for the next 10 days
Ivan K
When we went to Zion, we stayed at a park just outside the tunnel entrance and drove the toad into the park, it was impossible to get a spot inside of it. We took a week or so on the way to there from where you are, so many things to see on the way. If you still want to go to St. George, it might be easiest to stay on the highway. You get to do some good inclines either way but you'll miss a lot of interesting places in the inner circle. Your weather looks awesome.
Tom Whitlow
Back in the old days, my 96 HR Endeavor diesel had a fully mounted spare located in the center underneath. There was a crank that accessed a square pin thru an opening in the center baggage compartment to let it down. Never had a flat, so never used it in the 20+ years we drove that coach. Of course, there's no such thing on our 09 Dynasty. Don't miss it. I plan to use my iPhone to fix any future flats.
Ray Davis
My switches look just like Todds in the picture. The hook-up should be pretty straightforward with one wire in and one wire out. Do you have other wires in addition to the 2 large wires? If your bay looks like the picture then I agree with Myron, the problem is somewhere else, it's probably something to do with the solenoid.
A picture of your bay for comparison would be great.
Ivan K
Do you have a valve like this in your gen compartment? Ours is on passenger side and controls hot coolant flow to the exchanger.
Goodyear or toyo?
a4epilot
Amen!
Gary K, 06 Windsor
Marine Boy
Installed Toyo M144s in Jan 2022, replacing Michelins. Very happy after 15,000 miles since. Just to share another observation. While tire shopping for both RV and Toad tires, I received multiple comments from companies that sell Michelins, they are seeing tire compound on aging michilens getting hard just a few years into service. On my bus, I was replacing Michelins that were about 5 years old and noticed a big improvement in ride. I just finished a 7500 mile trip and half way through noticed how harsh the ride on my Ford Edge(Toad) was getting. Had new Perelli tires installed and was amazed at the difference/improvement in ride. And at this tire store the tech there said how hard the old tire compound was. I know car and truck tires are quite different, but just sharing my experience.
engine103
Yes both needles actually maybe 125 or 130 PSI then drops to a steady 120. I drained the tanks this morning checking for water and they were free of any contaminates
96 EVO
Hmmm.
So your governor is unloading your compressor, just no purge.
You may be better off just replacing the dryer assembly. They do tend to fail after a while, and replacing them isn't much more than buying the rebuild kits.
Tom Cherry
Back to basics. There are only (to the best of my recollection) two types of disconnect switches used. The “single” pole single throw. That is a high current switch. It only has TWO Lugs or terminals. The later Dynasty and up used a DPST. It had two small terminals. There was a control circuit that was needed for the boost board….complex, but Monaco wanted it. It is called by Blue Seas, an ignition” signal. Thus, when you turn off, both sets of contacts are OPEN. This was NOT used until the 2006 or so rewiring….and the Camelot’s and lower food chain never had the complex board.
The Boost Solenoid is energized via the momentary contact switch. Unless a PO had installed a “BIRD” or other BiDirectional system, the Boost solenoid should be open.
The picture is great, but. It is difficult to follow the cables. I’m answering this from my iPad, but just found some “rudimentary” prints. The basic configuration was used in several MH’s….and is not unique to the Windsor nor the years. We have prints dating back to 2000. I will, after I post this, do an edit from the PC and add the prints. If you blow up the “double print”, which I called Chassis, in the lower left corner is the wiring diagram for the “area”. It LOOKS, and I suspected this, like Monaco used the terminals on the Boost, as “junction points. In other words, the switch connects to a stud….then that stud sends out current to the main device. Sort of a “freaky” way of doing it.
YES….if the solenoid is defective….as in the contacts are welded or partially welded…you will get a circuit. Simple test. Pull the cables OFF one lug…use a bolt and nut and two flat washers. Sandwich the terminals between the two washers and tighten. You can pull BOTH, but pulling one side should also work.
If that solves the problem….great. If not…then, there has to be an issue elsewhere.
NOW….FWIW, I would not replace the boost solenoid. I would install a Blue Seas ML-ACR in it’s place. You MIGHT need to do some recabling….I would NOT want to use the ML-ACR’s studs as “junction points. Therefore, run, if they are long enough….the outgoing cables from each side of the solenoid up to their respective terminals on the switch. Then use the cables that run from the switches down to the new ML-ACR. That way, you prevent the issue from reoccurring..
BTW....no offense to the "tech support", but wiring this switch in using either side as the main power should work. It is THAT simple.
If you wanted to really make this bullet proof...then buy TWO new Blue Seas 6006. They are really rugged. No offense to the older switches and the new one, but the preference, based on years of reading and then moderating. INSTALL BLUE SEAS... They LAST and LAST and WORK.
Amazon has them....
OK....another PRINT. This is my HAND DRAWN...so any laughter will be punished and folks doing such will be MODERATED... LOL.
Seriously. You CAN rewire the system like the "LIKE THIS" in the bottom of the print. If you put in a NEW solenoid (assuming this one is defective, then that will be better. UNFORTUNATELY....the Solenoid is like a JUMPER. I would DO THIS and also replace the solenoid with the ML-ACR...
Just an idea....the CORRECT (or the preferred) way would have been to have the outgoing power (current) from the banks DIRECTLY connected or terminated at the SWITCHES....no on the Boost Terminals.
Hope this helps...
2000 - 2004 - MAYBE Chassis Print.pdf 2000 -2004 High Current wiring diagrams.pdf
Ray Davis
3 gals should make an awful mess, has that been mentioned? If the leak was mostly at low speed I imagine the mess would be far less.
Anyway, slipping clutches are the real concern IMHO which would raise the temp greatly and rapidly destroy the clutches. In yrs past you could smell burned tranny fluid & see a dark color but with Transynd I don't know.
How about it Jim, did you have oil everywhere? The pictures above look amazingly clean.
Personally, I think you're ok, lucky but ok.
2004beaver
Hello everyone, I currently have a 2004 beaver santiam 40 ft. Currently and according to the plate on coach it is designed for 275/70/22.5 size tires. Toyo and a few other manufacturers that I want to go with, don’t make that tire size. Have any of you with same tire size went up to say a 295/75/22.5 and been fine? Or are there some other tires that you guys would recommend in that size? The only tire ive found that I can get is the roadmaster tire made by cooper tires, but i have read some bad reviews online, so looking for any real life advice here as I am new to the class A world.
thank you in advance for and advice and I look forward to meeting everyone.
Top of Slide - tape curling
96 EVO
That's not Eternabond up there, it's tar tape!
I've done a few of mine. Removed the tar tape completely (WD-40 works well to remove the tar residue), and replaced with Eternabond.
Don't know how well Eternabond would stick to that aluminum backing.
Viper04
Lazy days in Wildwood is still set up to do your repair. Contact DOTTIE in parts. She has been there since the Monaco Wildwood days. Ask her for the mechanics name you need to work on your slide.
she will tell you straight up if the RIGHT GUY still works there. She is a whiz at sourcing Monaco coach parts.
her phone number is 352-330-3837. She is in today just spoke with her this morning to order the slide lube recommended by Monaco.
They also gave full hook ups at their location if you have to wait in parts. This use to be the largest Monaco service center in Florida and the southeast.
they are high but I'll pay that just to have someone work on my coach with experience and doesn't need a computer or manual to fix something manual /analog like a slide issue.
hope this helps
good luck and drive safe.
Tim
2000 Dynasty pulling a 2019
Ram Limited.
LakeBob
Getting ready to leave, of course, and had the above warning come on the dash. Lost all chassis light functions, turn, brake, tail etc. Stopped and shut off batteries to reset and it went away, then came back. The ABS and traction control lights came on prior to the failure warning.
I’m also getting a low battery warning on the house batteries.
The alternator was showing 13.7 before the warming.
Im grabbing my meter and starting to investigate, meanwhile anyone have any ideas?
it’s a Kongsberg system
thanks!
bob
Frank McElroy
11 minutes ago, LakeBob said:Getting ready to leave, of course, and had the above warning come on the dash. Lost all chassis light functions, turn, brake, tail etc. Stopped and shut off batteries to reset and it went away, then came back. The ABS and traction control lights came on prior to the failure warning.
I’m also getting a low battery warning on the house batteries.
The alternator was showing 13.7 before the warming.
Im grabbing my meter and starting to investigate, meanwhile anyone have any ideas?
it’s a Kongsberg system
thanks!
bob
On your coach, all the dash switches are powered by the house batteries. Most likely you are having an issue with your big boy. Try running the generator and then start the engine. With the generator still running, see if your problems disappear. If all seems to be working, clean big boy or just jumper across the two battery lugs on big boy.
grizzly
Been talking to a company called. EMP Shield about devices they have for EMP( Solar Flares and attacks) Different than the siege protectors I have( Surge Guard and the one in the coach) They have them for your vehicles as well. But my understanding is a major EMP will go into circuit boards , devices like cell phones , vehicles etc, even if not connected to the grid. This company also sells them for homes and make some interesting claims. Just trying to get a better understanding and decided if it is real and worth it. I know faraday cages are the main way or like I have faraday bags for some of my electrical devices . Thanks for input
SpectraPaul
Thank you, Chuck. This is good information that I think will help lead to a solution. I appreciate your time.
jacwjames
Well, I took off on I70 headed west, the first portion was mild grades and the temp hoovered at 160 then when I climbed the loooong grade up the pass after crossing the Green River it only got to 167. Then drove another 130 miles with no sign of slipping, shifted good, when using the exhaust brake down and up shifted as it should.
So based on that I think I'm OK.
I think the key to not having problems was that the last section of I70 before I exited was very flat so although I lost 3 gallons it wasn't low enough for the pickup tube to suck air. If I would have been on steep grades it would have been a whole other story.
Just lucky I decided to pull off into an exit that had a campground prior to driving toward Moab. I did that just to top off my fuel and saw the campground. If I would have kept going and took the exit directly toward Moab I would have lost more oil and there were grades on that route.
Michael J
My 06 Marquis has 295’s all the way around and I’m almost positive that is what it came from the factory with
jacwjames
Thanks Ivan
Before I got too far down on I70 I saw a sign for Bryce Canyon so I pulled over and looked at the route and options and decide to stay where JDCrow stayed in Hatch Utah. It is kind of centrally located, 27 miles to Bryce & 55 miles to Zion. From there I can take my time and explore.
Another interesting issue is that tomorrow is the solar eclipse and these places are going crazy. A ranger at the Canyon Lands Pinnacle visitor center that they are expecting 300K people in the area surrounding the road coming into the park. When I drove back through Moab yesterday ~5PM it was crazy people and there was a continual line of cars, trucks, vans, RV & motorhomes coming off I 70 into Moab. Evidently that general area is a prime viewing area, if you are into that type of thing.
So my plan tomorrow AM will to watch the partial solar eclipse in Hatch and get on with my life. 😁
JetAburner
I'm running 295 Toyos with no issues. And 295s have a higher weight rating. They look better too.
Jdw12345
Have you googled 275/70/22.5 tires, I just did and had several choices……
Bruce B
I have a 2004 Signature with the front drop down tv, after getting the coach out of storage the tv will not drop down. When I press the button to activate the lift I hear a grinding or spline-like sound slipping and no movement from the unit. How do you get access to the motor compartment? I can expose the back of the tv but that does not help get at the motor. There are caps with screws either side of the ceiling surround, does anyone know what function they do? Is there a release that would allow the tv to be brought down in order to expose the motor components? Thanks for any assistance or advice.
Bruce in Indio, CA
Air Dryer Inop?
Jdw12345
I would check the air governor for proper operation.
I would replace the purge valve next, jmo.
This might help.
Lost 3 gallons from Tranny, am I screwed
Ray Davis
I remember yrs ago ( 60 ) LOL transmissions had a vacuum device that controlled shifting. This device could develop a hole in its diaphragm allowing it to suck fluid into the engine where it was burned. I know we don't use the vacuum, but still, I wonder if there is any way for something similar to happen. I learned some time ago that on some engines hydraulic fluid can cross over into the engine oil. So I'm curious if there is any other way for the tranny fluid to escape without leaving a trace.
LakeBob
Thanks Frank, I pulled and cleaned the Big boy last year. It was not dirty or corroded at all.
i started the coach after letting it sit with the batteries switch off and no warning lights or message appeared. However it had cleared previously and then reappeared after driving for 3 or 4 minutes. I have not driven it again yet.
There was also a light rain while driving to get the battery this morning.
hex_nut
Matt
As Beaver made the transition to Monaco ownership, they standardized with 295 mm tires on most everything. However, your vintage coach may not have room for the 295s. The 295s will be almost an inch wider and about 2 inches taller. You would need to carefully verify that you have the physical room for such a larger tire. Also, realize that you would have a significant speedometer discrepancy with the larger tires. Be careful and do much research before shelling out the money for a larger set of tires.
Richard
p.s. Verify the rim width on the current wheels to see if they will even accept the wider tires. If memory serves me correctly, the 295s require an 8.25 inch rim width.
Frank McElroy
7 minutes ago, LakeBob said:Thanks Frank, I pulled and cleaned the Big boy last year. It was not dirty or corroded at all.
i started the coach after letting it sit with the batteries switch off and no warning lights or message appeared. However it had cleared previously and then reappeared after driving for 3 or 4 minutes. I have not driven it again yet.
There was also a light rain while driving to get the battery this morning.
The most important thing to know is the house battery voltage with the engine running. On a Kongsberg chassis multiplex coach, BOTH house AND chassis batteries MUST be charging with the engine running. If you find that the house batteries aren't charging, run the generator or bypass bigboy. Just because big boy is clean doesn't mean it is energized.
Ron Van Arsdall
Pop off the two button caps and remove the screws on the sides. That will allow you to drop the complete housing and gain access to the motor and linkage. The housing is not heavy but is awkward because of it's size
CLIFF918
I have a set of Roadmaster tires on my 2002 Diplomat and have put about 8K on them since new with no issues.
Cliff
Ivan K
46 minutes ago, Ray Davis said:I remember yrs ago ( 60 ) LOL transmissions had a vacuum device that controlled shifting. This device could develop a hole in its diaphragm allowing it to suck fluid into the engine where it was burned. I know we don't use the vacuum, but still, I wonder if there is any way for something similar to happen. I learned some time ago that on some engines hydraulic fluid can cross over into the engine oil. So I'm curious if there is any other way for the tranny fluid to escape without leaving a trace.
Yeah, the vacuum modulator before computers took the shift point control over. But as far as I know, on these rigs the only possible ATF cross contamination would be in the radiator and that would be very noticeable with 3 gallons missing. Since Jim found the leak point, it is unlikely to have this much bad luck. 🤞
BTW, I have similar cooler in the drag car and had a fitting come off of the aluminum exit line as well. Probably due to vibrations. Don't remember how the factory held the fitting on but certainly not well enough. In my case, JB weld fixed it.
Switching tire size
2004beaver
4 minutes ago, CLIFF918 said:I have a set of Roadmaster tires on my 2002 Diplomat and have put about 8K on them since new with no issues.
Cliff
How many years ild are they? Are they cracking or anything?
1 hour ago, Jdw12345 said:Have you googled 275/70/22.5 tires, I just did and had several choices……
I have. I see there are a few, just not the names i would like to purchase. Maybe i am just being too picky
1 hour ago, JetAburner said:I'm running 295 Toyos with no issues. And 295s have a higher weight rating. They look better too.
Yeah in just not sure that they will clear. So i was just wondering if someone with same coach could confirm or deny. Thank you
1 hour ago, 96 EVO said:Odd.
I thought 275/70 was a common size on trucks!
They are more expensive than 295/80/22.5 and a lot of higer or middle end tire manufacturers dont make them in that size, so im guessing not anymore.
tmw188
Did you notice inside the engine door or on the car for fluid residue?
Tom Cherry
50 minutes ago, Frank McElroy said:The most important thing to know is the house battery voltage with the engine running. On a Kongsberg chassis multiplex coach, BOTH house AND chassis batteries MUST be charging with the engine running. If you find that the house batteries aren't charging, run the generator or bypass bigboy. Just because big boy is clean doesn't mean it is energized.
Since Frank has tutored me….check both sides of the big boy to ground. If it is working, then the voltages should be the same. On your MH, it uses the proprietary Intellitec board. It should be humming and hot enough to the touch that you cannot grab the can and leave your hand there. Then, use the volt scale and test terminal to terminal. If it is hot and humming, then there should be, at a max, 0.1 -0.15 VDC “potential” across the terminals. Greater than that….time to reclean again….
Tom Cherry
2 hours ago, grizzly said:Been talking to a company called. EMP Shield about devices they have for EMP( Solar Flares and attacks) Different than the siege protectors I have( Surge Guard and the one in the coach) They have them for your vehicles as well. But my understanding is a major EMP will go into circuit boards , devices like cell phones , vehicles etc, even if not connected to the grid. This company also sells them for homes and make some interesting claims. Just trying to get a better understanding and decided if it is real and worth it. I know faraday cages are the main way or like I have faraday bags for some of my electrical devices . Thanks for input
Your call. There is a lot “interesting claims” about many products…..weight loss, testosterone increase, lowering cholesterol, growing hair.
I have a very learned friend with a couple of degrees and is highly technical and he spends time on the blogs with people that are building faraday cages and have some of critical electronics “protected”. Same folks that have mega amounts of stored ammunition and have water powered “generators” to provide minimum electricity for essentials.
His comment….an installed EMP Protection device is not feasible from a scientific or electrical standpoint. The “EMP” storm or eruption that they are preparing for is based on the number of conductors or wires in a “mass” as well as the size of the mass….as in length. So a MH with a steel frame and bundles or wire running fore to aft ….forget it. Build a carport and then use it as a frame for a faraday cage. Otherwise, there is no effective “add on” electrical device….known to him and his associates, that will provide any protection and that there are several “Professor Harold Hill” types out hawking and selling devices with “certification’s” based on science that is not related to EMP, but sounds impressive due to the claims and jargon.
I also, personally, have had some quotes and engineering studies run for our church, as we seem to be a lightning “magnet” and the contradictions in the “my system” versus theirs are unbelievable. I was a 2 year EE student….always interested in “wires and things”. I don’t know if anyone has developed a “surefire” lightning rod for a MH.
From a probability or risk assessment standpoint, which was my responsibility as the “resource conservation” Director, I would be more concerned about the MOV’s in my existing SurgeGuard ATS and find a technician that can remove and install all the sacrificial components. We had an individual like that and he devised a test procedure and replaced his MOV’s and a few other items every 3 years or so on his 2006 Dynasty. Unfortunately, he passed away.
Again….my opinion and my research and understanding based on a lot of hours listening to a few friends that were of the “prepper” persuasion….
Others may scoff and be more knowledgeable….and I just gave you my interpretation….
grizzly
Thank you Tom I appreciate your input and value it .My conclusion was the same as yours and you confirmed it and I was looking for some one with EE background or similar. Thank you once again.
jacwjames
58 minutes ago, tmw188 said:Did you notice inside the engine door or on the car for fluid residue?
Yes I did but at the time I thought it was road oil, I went through a construction area that had big warning signs "Fresh Oil On Road". I did look at the radiator and didn't see any signs of oil and none dripping.
Didn't put 2 & 2 together until I found the cooler leaking.
CLIFF918
1 hour ago, 2004beaver said:How many years ild are they? Are they cracking or anything? 3 years old, always covered and Pressure maintained even in storage. No cracking still look new.
Cliff
I have. I see there are a few, just not the names i would like to purchase. Maybe i am just being too picky
Yeah in just not sure that they will clear. So i was just wondering if someone with same coach could confirm or deny. Thank you
They are more expensive than 295/80/22.5 and a lot of higer or middle end tire manufacturers dont make them in that size, so im guessing not anymore.
LakeBob
Thanks guys, I believe the ultimate cause was the low state of charge of the house batteries. Based on the warning I was getting on the Magnum screen, “Low Battery- 10.2v “ and the broken terminal, and the inability of the alternator to charge the house batteries.
I connected to 50 amp and monitored as the house batteries went through the bulk, absorption, and float phases.
Disconnected 50 Amp and started Coach, no issues. I’ll take it for a short drive tomorrow to see how it behaves on the road with alternator power.
Frank McElroy
When driving a Kongsberg Chassis multiplex coach always keep a close eye on the house batteries to be sure they are being charged. If house batteries aren't being charged, it's only a matter of time before you'll be on the side of the road. If you ever notice the house batteries not being charged, run the generator so the inverter can charge the house batteries.
Romeo84
Went through this last year. The purge valve in the air dryer was old dirty and not sealing so it never fully seated.
You can get a new purge valve kit for cheap it doesn't come with the slide valve though. I bought a new air dryer off Amazon that was defective so don't do that. If the needle stops building its in the dryer.
Bob Blackmon
Sitting in Dunnigan right now on our way to Eureka. 299 is doable but work. Take 20 from Williams to Ukiah. Hills and curves but easier than 299.
dennis.mcdonaugh
Buy the upper and lower rebuild kit. They're easy to rebuild after you remove it from under the coach.
Tom Cherry
2 hours ago, Frank McElroy said:When driving a Kongsberg Chassis multiplex coach always keep a close eye on the house batteries to be sure they are being charged. If house batteries aren't being charged, it's only a matter of time before you'll be on the side of the road. If you ever notice the house batteries not being charged, run the generator so the inverter can charge the house batteries.
Followup…. There have been issues with the Intellitec board that drives or controls the Big Boy. One solution, for the Kongsberg chassis, as Frank points out. An emergency “Big Boy” bypass. A simple Blue Seas 300 A switch and two short cables 4/0 wire size, with the appropriate terminal hole or diameter, would be all you needed. Mount the Blue Seas on a small board and run both cables from the switch to the Big Boy. I know the Dynasty is a bit “space challenged….so trace back each cable and attach there. The other ootion….use a jumper cable between the positives as you drive.
Just a little food for thought.
Tom Cherry
3 hours ago, grizzly said:Thank you Tom I appreciate your input and value it .My conclusion was the same as yours and you confirmed it and I was looking for some one with EE background or similar. Thank you once again.
FWIW.
Lost 3 gallons from Tranny, am I screwed
96 EVO
On 10/12/2023 at 10:34 AM, Ivan K said:Fluid temp at least 160F, in neutral with engine running press UP and Down at the same time, once. It will start a countdown and tell you either OK or how much low/high. If you had a dipstick, it only is meant to check safe level after fluid change.
Ivan, I just took mine for it's first run since changing fluid & filters.
Stopped at a parking lot about 20mi from home, fluid temp 181F, level check showed 2 quarts low.
Drove home, trans now 195F, level check showed OL-OK.
I wouldn't trust it at 160F.
96 EVO
1 minute ago, engine103 said:It might be easier to rebuild than it was to find it!
Ha!
Yeah, in those days they mounted them in a gawdawfull place for an RV!
Fine for a semi where they were easily accessible with no trailer!
James Weir
I have a 2007 Dynasty with a lift system that appears to be very similar to yours. On mine there is a gear box and shaft on the front left side (drivers) looking forward out the windshield. Mine is tucked up neatly and at first is not obvious. That shaft moves slightly toward and away from the gear box, approximately 1/4" travel. If I recall correctly pushing the shaft toward the gear box/motor engages the drive assembly, pulling away from the gear box disengages the assembly. You may try moving the shaft back and forth to ensure it is fully engaged. Disengaging the gear box allows manual turning of the shaft allowing lowering or raising the lift. It's a slow process to manually move the lift but can be done.
James
2007 Dynasty
Ivan K
16 minutes ago, 96 EVO said:Ivan, I just took mine for it's first run since changing fluid & filters.
Stopped at a parking lot about 20mi from home, fluid temp 181F, level check showed 2 quarts low.
Drove home, trans now 195F, level check showed OL-OK.
I wouldn't trust it at 160F.
Ha, yeah, ATF expands with temp significantly so it has to be meassured hot. I think 160F was the minimum for the system to even start. I suppose at you normal cruising temp would be the time to do it.
A quick look into the library says this:
grizzly
Tom I have the Surge Guard ATS. You said they are no longer available?
Mike H
13 hours ago, amphi_sc said:We just came down from Sevierville via 441 west to 411 thru Marysville, Benton etc. Stayed off I-40 and I-75 until south of Atlanta. Pleasant drive missing Knoxville and Chattanooga traffic enjoying the countryside. 45' with toad.
We just drove I-40 and I-75 today and traffic thru Atlanta and Macon was a nightmare ! Stopped at the Carroll's Sausage RV Campground for the night. Was a very long day
Mike H
10 hours ago, Viper04 said:Lazy days in Wildwood is still set up to do your repair. Contact DOTTIE in parts. She has been there since the Monaco Wildwood days. Ask her for the mechanics name you need to work on your slide.
she will tell you straight up if the RIGHT GUY still works there. She is a whiz at sourcing Monaco coach parts.
Tim
2000 Dynasty pulling a 2019
Ram Limited.
His name is John, don't have his last name
Frank McElroy
6 hours ago, Frank McElroy said:When driving a Kongsberg Chassis multiplex coach always keep a close eye on the house batteries to be sure they are being charged. If house batteries aren't being charged, it's only a matter of time before you'll be on the side of the road. If you ever notice the house batteries not being charged, run the generator so the inverter can charge the house batteries.
If you want to bypass big boy, this is how I did it with a piece of copper to jumper across the two battery studs and I unplugged the connector from RRB board #6 feeding the big boy solenoid. I used tin snips to cut a piece of copper water pipe tubing to size. Flattened it and drilled two holes. A cheap effective solution to bypass big boy.
If I had a Kongsberg CCM multiplex coach, big boy would always be bypassed. These coaches were really not designed for dry camping. They were designed to be always on shore or generator power when not being driven.
Your other option is to replace big boy with a Blue Sea ML-ACR.
Happycarz
Dennis, have you taken the whole grab bar out completely? On mine, once removed is a screw that holds the plate to the tube. It works loose. One end more than the other, at least on mine.
Once the grab bar is removed, tighten the screws snugly. Then dry fit it. The angle might be off a smidge. Move the plates around until the screw holes in the plate line up with the dash and floor mounting holes. (Mine mount to dash and floor). Once satisfied tighten the plate screws firmly and install.
I’ve done mine about three or four times in the last 16 years. The end at the dash has one side just slightly higher than at the other screw hole. But, as the plate holes are lined up with the dash holes it snugs up just fine. The one at the floor fits perfectly square. That plate goes through the tile and into the steel below. Had to upsize one screw there to as the at hole was wallowed out. No more issues.
Since I don’t care for wobbly gab bars, I stay after them.
How to carry, SAFELY, a spare tire for my 2005 Endeavor? Is this possible
dl_racing427
15 hours ago, Tom Whitlow said:
Back in the old days, my 96 HR Endeavor diesel had a fully mounted spare located in the center underneath. There was a crank that accessed a square pin thru an opening in the center baggage compartment to let it down. Never had a flat, so never used it in the 20+ years we drove that coach. Of course, there's no such thing on our 09 Dynasty. Don't miss it. I plan to use my iPhone to fix any future flats.
Just don't go to Alaska. There are places up there where you can't even receive a broadcast radio station, much less a cell signal. LOL
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