Monacoers Daily News

I have first hand experience with Wacoo and RV Airflow. In my experience, both products do what they advertise.

Below is my post on the Wacko where I used a sound meter to check sound levels before and after. I’ll also comment that part of my logic was that the original plastic covers were yellowed, warped, and looked awful  the Wacko product was a vast improvement in appearance.

I recently installed the RV Airflow product on the units with the Wacko already installed.  My goal was better airflow, not necessarily noise reduction. The units provided a minor decrease in sound from 84dB down to 82dB. The major improvement was in airflow. I did not test with an anemometer, but airflow, particularly at the ends of the duct run were dramatically increased.  When driving, I can actually feel the roof air blowing in hot weather.  🥶 

I find there are many issues where I disagree with Dave Solberg.  This is one of them, and given my degree, training, and much of my experience is in HVAC system design I’ll stick by my guns. 😁 You’ll find that a lot of the wisdom of those who have participated in the forum for many years will conflict with his advice from time to time. I’m not saying he’s wrong, it’s just that much of his advice is very generic (by necessity) and has to be applicable to everything from a pop-up to a Prevost.  

1 hour ago, saflyer said:

Rather than the Waco A/C silencer you might look into two other products, RV Airflow Systems and KoolRV. They seem to work on the same principle of improving the airflow to the ducts. I installed the Wacko and didn’t measure any reduction of sound level. Save Solberg of RVTravel.com looked into the Wacko and concluded the sound reduction they report is mainly due to improving the taping inside the box of the A/C units a job the RV manufacturers are supposed to do but don’t do it well. You can do this without buying the Wacko item.Does anyone else have experience with these three products. The RV Airflow and KooRV items appear to have very similar designs but the latter is half the price os the former.

TSD Fuel Card
saflyer 19 hours ago

1 hour ago, jacwjames said:

There is a big inconvenience using a CC, there are usually limits at the pump as to how much you can pump and/or how many times you can swipe a card. 

For me having options is a big draw on setting up either TSD or Mudflap, plus the quicker fill time. 

 

1 hour ago, birdshill123 said:

TSD has improved. More Loves listed and Maverick. There used to be many areas in the SW where TSD had no locations. I refuse to use any card that requires me to go inside and stand in line.

“Go inside and stand in line”. Twice!
 

And another gripe. I am convinced some convenience store chains don’t keep their pump printers stocked with paper or in operating condition so the customer has to go inside for a receipt increasing the chance they will buy something. If that happens to me twice at a location I don’t get gas there anymore.

Houghton Install/Thermostat Dead
1nolaguy 19 hours ago

I know this is a very late reply. Somehow this post was emailed to me today. If anyone is still following I am curious how the OP was able to keep the old penguin II thermostat alive to control the LP heat. Both our Penguin II units died about 3 years ago, while we were in Florida. I replaced both units with Haughton/Recpro A/C-Heat Pumps, which have their own internal thermostats that are also controlled by a remote. While I left the Penguin II "brains" inside the ceiling install the OEM 5 button controller no longer functioned and the LP furnaces no longer work. I do not think it is a furnace issue but that they are not getting signal from the 5 button control. In your situation how did you address this?

Water Manifold
Twomed 18 hours ago

PIC sent in a message 🙂

TSD Fuel Card
Twomed 18 hours ago

23 hours ago, Georgia Mike said:

A few years ago I pulled into a major truck stop and there wasn’t clear signage as to which way to go. I made a split second decision and went the wrong way into a dead end. I had to disconnect the car and had a heck of time getting out of there. From then on I always look at google maps to make sure I know the layout so it’s familiar to me when I get there.

Probably that new TA at Vero Beach...I did that and ended up at the shop.   Fortunately empty an the guys let me drive through.  Not well marked.  😬

Water Manifold
Doug and Nicki 18 hours ago

I have a 2008 Dynasty. The water line for the refrigerator is clearly visible if you remove the bottom panel on the exterior wall at the refrigerator location. You may want to see if there is water getting to the refrigerator. If so, then you likely have a defective valve in the refrigerator that will not allow water to exit.

Houghton Install/Thermostat Dead
Tom Cherry 18 hours ago

If you search and read here….THIS IS how it has to work.

It matters not if you have one thermostat with a furnace and multiple zones….such as a single thermostat in the front and it controls the the front unit as well as zone 2 and it controls the back unit…or if you have a front and rear thermostat….and single or multiple furnaces or an Aquahot with several zones….

It also matters not if you have a 4 button or a 5 button Duo Therm/Dometic thermostat.  The data cable (think phone wire) starts at the thermostat.  It runs to the front unit and is connected to a Control Module on the unit (for the 13.5 K in the plenum..INSIDE and for a 15K…on the roof under the cover).  There is 12 VDC and 120 VAC that comes to the unit.  The data cable runs to the thermostat.  2 wires provide 12 VDC. The other two wires carry a multiplexed data signal from the thermostat to the control unit.  That signal tells the HVAC to cool or heat if also a heat pump.  It also controls the fan mode and such. IF there is a furnace connection for the front (zone 1), then it controls the furnace.

IF the thermostat controls the rear (bedroom zone 2), then that data cable runs back to the rear unit.  There is a similar control module there….and there is a remote temp sensor on the wall.  If you have TWO furnaces….then one will be connected to the control module.  If only ONE for the MH….then there will be NO “Furnace” or HEAT mode for Zone 2.

The Dometic Multiplexed thermostats do NOT work like a home thermostat….with a 5 or 7 wire cable running to the roof top or the furnace.  All the signals are electronically sent (digital) to whichever control module needs help.  The caveat….you can NOT heat in the front and cool in the rear..

NOW, the furnaces that Monaco used were NON CONVENTIONAL units.  They only have two wires.   There is incoming 12VDC to the control board.  These furnaces are “DUMB”.  There is a two wire pair, often called the BLUE wires that is connected the HAVAC unit up front.  The furnace only knows one thing.  If there is a circuit or the two wires are “switched” on (think twisting a wire nut on them), the furnace comes on.  Break the circuit or disconnect them.  OFF.

YES….you can install the RecPro and use the ceiling thermostat (or maybe your phone) and you operate the Air Conditioner.  BUT….there is NO circuit or connection to run or operate the furnace.  You have to remove the control units from each Dometic HVAC and then “reinstall” each on the plenum.  Now, you have to find the pair of wires that connected to the plug on the control unit.  Dometic uses BLUE…but Monaco ran two wires to the furnace.  Some were color coded….some were “white” with a label.  These wires have to be connected directly to the Furnace Contacts on the controller.  The thermostat and the controller(s) have to be wired exactly as they were in the original Monaco MH.  You have to do a reset.  You will ONLY have HEAT or a Furnace ZONE…I think.  If you have AC, it is connected to NOTHING and won’t control the RecPro

SO, the only thing that the old or original thermostat now controls or will control is the furnace.  Many folks, as well as at least 50% of the technicians never understood this.  They would rip out the old rooftop unit and throw it away with the control module.  They did not look at the print on the original unit and then figure out how to hook up the 120VAC and maybe the 12 VDC.  But there were more wires….two of them were the wires to the furnace….and they were left disconnected.  There is a TON of information and frustration on the Air Stream sites and the RecPros were the “cheaper” option….  There was maybe a dozen or so “authorized” factory repair shops in the US that actually made the old Dometic (Duo Therm) system work and the thermostat would control the furnace.

Most had wire mold installed and the two wires from the furnace were run from the furnace and up the wall.  The “Coleman” and other “Generic RV Thermostat” were all DC powered.  You can NOT use one of these.  When you try, the Furnace OUTPUT did strange things.  The two wires were electically neutral or insulated or isolated. Putting 12 VDC on them was known to cause issues or blow fuses or not work,  it FINALLY hit some of the shops.   You had to use the Furnace Output 12 VDC on a relay coil.  Then the two wires from the furnace were on the contacts….so in effect….think of it as an “electronic” light switch.  If you ran the two wires inside the Motor home….you could use a wall light switch or any switch….flip the switch ON….furnace runs….turn it off….Furnace is OFF.

Coleman also says flat out….we do NOT make an RV thermostat with DRY or no POWER furnace output.

Somewhere, and I have posted this many times, is a special mechanical (no incoming power) thermostat on Amazon.  It allows you to adjust the temperature and it operates and runs the furnace.  BUT, it HAS to have or should have an OFF setting.  Many don't…

THUS…a functional thermostat hard wired from the furnace…

THAT’s IT.  As a Moderator, we warn folks that the RecPro solution requires extensive knowledge of the system.  BUT, from a coat standpoint, it may be more costly than replacing the Penguins and updating to the new CCC2 MPX system.  The 4 button is extinct…you can find old, maybe refurbished 5 button.  MicroAir sells a replacement for around $400 (last I heard).  The 5 button CCC Control Module is still in production….but eventually it will be discontinued.  So, if it dies, a new one will be around $200.  Therefore, to keep your old furnace running, you will spend up to $600.  Microair has been a bit elusive.  A member once posted that MicroAir will “reflash” or convert the old 5 button to the new CCC2 syatem…10 button?  BUT, he never confirmed…Microair told me….NOPE…buy the NEW 10 button replacment…or $400.

Many members have successfully kept and rewired, properly, the 5 button system.  Many members have made disparaging remarks in that we moderators don’t like the RecPro’s and they are up to day and very intelligent.  That is NOT THE CASE.  The RecPros work great as stand alone units,  if RecPro would incorporate a dry (no voltage) set of contacts that would also operate a furnace so that you had dual mode ….CHILL, OFF, HEAT….that would be a perfect solution.

There are also comments about MicroAir.  Yes, they are technologically better than the Dometic and folks enjoy the phone programming…compared to,the  older of existing ones.  BUT the techs at MicroAir said, point blank, we do NOT understand nor can help you troubleshoot the Dometic MPX control system.  Dometic has to do that.  Dometic is less than willing, we have been told, to try to troubleshoot a failed system as they have NO knowledge of the internal MicroAir systdm.

What we have learned and post is that a mixed system is difficult.  One member said MicroAir was sending a new thermostat.  All well and good…but the issue was in the Dometic Control Module.  He eventually, swapped the front to the rear….bingo…problem moved.  A NEW thermostat would NOT have fixed that.  

Just want folks to understand that a cheaper system, which uses old and antiquated controls might, in the long run cost them more…but many folks intrnd to gef rid of the MH in the next few years and are willing to gamble,

Hope this makes sense…and that you now have a better understanding.  Wihiut knowing if your control modules were salvaged and hooked up, properly, difficult to help trouble shoot…

Houghton Install/Thermostat Dead
cbr046 17 hours ago

37 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:

Somewhere, and I have posted this many times, is a special mechanical (no incoming power) thermostat on Amazon.  It allows you to adjust the temperature and it operates and runs the furnace.  BUT, it HAS to have or should have an OFF setting.  Many don't…

THUS…a functional thermostat hard wired from the furnace…

If I were contemplating an upgrade this is probably the approach I would take.  MicroAir, or something with bluetooth option, and an independent dumb thermostat for the furnace.  Hopefully that won't be soon. 

- bob

front ac/heat pump unit
grizzly 17 hours ago

Can anyone tell me where to get a new circuit board for my ac/heat pump unit of my 07 Monaco Sig? Or can it be rebuilt?

Houghton Install/Thermostat Dead
96 EVO 16 hours ago

On 3/1/2023 at 12:25 PM, klcdenver said:

  It heats to 112 degrees and cools to 33 degrees in the duct work. I took the temps in the same place for both. 

I should have included this picture also which is the control board and wiring.

That's going to fluctuate depending on indoor and outdoor temperature!

Yesterday, while exercising my gen, I was getting 123F out of my factory installed Duo-Therms.

It was warm enough that I didn't need heat, but those are my 'go to' for putting a load on the gen.

Houghton Install/Thermostat Dead
Tom Cherry 16 hours ago

1 hour ago, cbr046 said:

If I were contemplating an upgrade this is probably the approach I would take.  MicroAir, or something with bluetooth option, and an independent dumb thermostat for the furnace.  Hopefully that won't be soon. 

 

OK….one at a time.  If you choose a Coleman or such, then mounting a Microair thermostat will not work.  You need control wiring (5 conductor) to the Coleman or any typical ceiling unit…with or without a heat pump. Monaco never ran wires for a conventional system.  You need a thermostat cable from the new MicroAir to the ceiling as well as wire to the furnace. MicroAir thermostat requires either a thermostat cable (multiple wires) or a MPX Data cable for a Dometic or Penguin system….and the 4/5 and 10 button are not interchangeable.

Next up…the popular Houghton RecPro has only a cooling thermostat.Also, there is only one brand and style of “dumb” thermostat that will work.  If you use a typical  RV thermostat, you must put in a relay to have dry or unpowered contacts for the furnace.  

If you choose to use the MPX data cables….and MicroAir makes one for the old (4/5) and new (10) button units, you STILL have to have the individual unit control modules in place. Otherwise, if you choose a NON MPX or a “Coleman Style” RV unit….hard wired multiple (cable) wire from thermostat to ceiling…

Just making sure some other member does not take your generic comment and then try to implement and run into the complexity and reality of “project”…as many have….and regretted….

 

These little nuances are not fully understood..

Location of Domestic battery ground?
ido70 16 hours ago

Does anyone know where the main ground connection is for the domestic batteries in a 2004 Windsor Monaco? I have traced down a problem starting my generator to a poor supply battery ground.

I noticed that I could start the gen when I engaged the battery boost even though the domestic volt level was higher than the truck battery. I tried temporary jumping the domestic battery negative to the truck battery negative and got a normal start every time, so I figure the truck battery ground is better than the domestic one. 
 

I crawled under but cannot locate the grounds and all the cables are wrapped in the flex hose. 

Rubber Grommets for taillights.
JeffM31 15 hours ago

Good morning,

Does anyone know the number for the rubber grommets that hold in the taillight on an 06 Diplomat? I found some nylon ones I believe that are correct. The lights are from Dodge from what I have found?? 

front ac/heat pump unit
Tom Cherry 15 hours ago

1 hour ago, grizzly said:

Can anyone tell me where to get a new circuit board for my ac/heat pump unit of my 07 Monaco Sig? Or can it be rebuilt?

OK…ASSUME that you mean the AC POWER BOARD…. 3109229.009. We call that the CONTROL MODULE.  Use this link.  This is “PROBABLY” the one you need….item 46.

Houghton Install/Thermostat Dead
cbr046 15 hours ago

9 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:

Next up…the popular Houghton RecPro has only a cooling thermostat.Also, there is only one brand and style of “dumb” thermostat that will work.  If you use a typical  RV thermostat, you must put in a relay to have dry or unpowered contacts for the furnace. 

Yes, it can get very complex with all the combinations not engineered to work together. 

I was thinking something like Location of Domestic battery ground?
Tom Cherry 15 hours ago

23 minutes ago, ido70 said:

Does anyone know where the main ground connection is for the domestic batteries in a 2004 Windsor Monaco? I have traced down a problem starting my generator to a poor supply battery ground.

I noticed that I could start the gen when I engaged the battery boost even though the domestic volt level was higher than the truck battery. I tried temporary jumping the domestic battery negative to the truck battery negative and got a normal start every time, so I figure the truck battery ground is better than the domestic one. 
 

I crawled under but cannot locate the grounds and all the cables are wrapped in the flex hose. 

OK….GENERIC.  Somewhere behind or near and under the battery box, there are TWO ground studs with at least one 4/0 cable connected….maybe a few more.  One is the HOUSE and one is CHASSIS.  Loosen or remove both….clean and reassemble….obviously turn OFF both the house and chassis positive disconnects.

that happened to me.  You have diagnosed it correctly…. BUT.  Go up front ALSO.  Chase the cables from the rear studs and clean the ground one and check the positive one.  Everything worked fine and had ample battery for inverting….but the corroded House ground stud in the back was it.  Spray the studs with Battery Corrosion protectant…

Houghton Install/Thermostat Dead
Tom Cherry 15 hours ago

3 minutes ago, cbr046 said:

Yes, it can get very complex with all the combinations not engineered to work together. 

I was thinking something like Replacement of 2006 Endeavor Shower Skylight
guy_ethier 12 hours ago

While, after fixing both furnaces, the water heater and installing a new kitchen sink faucet where no full size man out to be able to fit into under the sink, I decided to clean my roof the other day.  I then noticed a large crack in the dark colored shower skylight. Measurements, as close as I can tell with all of the extra goop covering everything in sight, comes out to be about 27" x 27" x 8" x 25" x 8" for the bubble portion. I assume there is a 2" nail flange around the side?  The goop is at least 3 inches wide so hard to tell.

I have sourced 2 outfits that sell them, but I was wondering if anyone, Scotty Hutto perhaps, has already replaced theirs and could second my measurements as being correct?  I would like to order the new one prior to removing the old one and leaving such a large hole in the roof outside where I park the beast.

I do know that there is a special sealant required as well as ordering extra stainless steel screws as the holes will not match and I might need extra screws. Not planning on using the original screws,  but just want to be sure I don't run out.

Finally, any benefit to smoked glass colored over white colored over clear colored other than white being harder to keep clean?

Thanks,

Replacement of 2006 Endeavor Shower Skylight
Tom Cherry 11 hours ago

40 minutes ago, guy_ethier said:

While, after fixing both furnaces, the water heater and installing a new kitchen sink faucet where no full size man out to be able to fit into under the sink, I decided to clean my roof the other day.  I then noticed a large crack in the dark colored shower skylight. Measurements, as close as I can tell with all of the extra goop covering everything in sight, comes out to be about 27" x 27" x 8" x 25" x 8" for the bubble portion. I assume there is a 2" nail flange around the side?  The goop is at least 3 inches wide so hard to tell.

I have sourced 2 outfits that sell them, but I was wondering if anyone, Scotty Hutto perhaps, has already replaced theirs and could second my measurements as being correct?  I would like to order the new one prior to removing the old one and leaving such a large hole in the roof outside where I park the beast.

I do know that there is a special sealant required as well as ordering extra stainless steel screws as the holes will not match and I might need extra screws. Not planning on using the original screws,  but just want to be sure I don't run out.

Finally, any benefit to smoked glass colored over white colored over clear colored other than white being harder to keep clean?

Thanks,

Wow,  you sound industrious….sometimes a blessing….others call it a curse.

First….for you edification and also to help you use the sight…

https://www.monacoers.org/search/?q=Shower skylight&quick=1&type=forums_topic

I used the search box in the upper right.  I used two key words. Shower and skylight.  I then clicked on everywhere….and chose “TOPICS”.  Here is the results.  Take some time and click on each one.  Then scroll up or down and get the gist of the topic….often times the titles are a bit misleading or the “intent” of the topic sort of shifted. Takes a little time, but you will find a world of help as to how others accomplished what you intend to do.

If you haven’t downloaded the PARTS LIST….do a search.  Use PARTS. This time select FILES from “everywhere”.  Now,  look at the top of the first page and check the Adobe Reader tools.  There is a FIND….as in a key word or phrase.  I would do two.  Skylight and Shower.  That will list the vendors folks have used….so, you have a LOT of relavent information….as some might not respond as they are busy.

Folks here, memory, have done some unique and perhaps NON MONACO OEM “things”.  I will comment on two that struck me.

First the sealant.  Ordinarily PROFLEX is the sealant that most use.  Somewhere in my mind, a warning pops up.  DO NOT USE ON ACRYLIC.  That came from getting freebie kits to replace the covers on the Fantastic fans.  They sent me DiCor “EPDM” LAP SEALANT.  FF said that was their choice…as this was a large “customer complaint” resolution.

The original sealant, probably called out in your manual….a great resource….was GeoCell.  It is a “volatile cure” sealant and the industry switched over to Non Volatile and GeoCel(L) developed ProFlex.  So read up on what was used originally.  The original GeoCel was an industry standard.  It was more vicious than most others and Monaco would “squirt” it generously and it would crawl or “self level”.  The new proflex is thicker and won’t spread or self level as nicely or neatly.  However, the DiCor Lap Sealant is closer to the OEM Geocel and spreads and levels and you don’t have to do as much “touch up” or spreading.

Another thing many of us have learned….be careful and do NOT tear up what ain’t broke.  We often touch up or recoat the flange sealant on the roofs.  We use blue painters tape and go about an inch out and make a “box”.  Then you clean the old sealant or caulk with Simple Green.  If there is black mold or mildew (common in the south from pine trees) a little bleach (diluted say 5 - 10 to ONE) will remove the stain and you get better adhesion with the new sealer.  I go stronger and use Bleech White (outside and ventilated) and it really cleans the existing caulk of sealer.  Rinse thoroughly.  Then let it dry and Lightly recoat the entire area.  The original sealer will have some “entraned” air or bubbles.  Easy to seal them.

ONE point..as you get to the edge of the blue tape masking….use a 1” of so putty knife and taper the thickness….that way you have a thinner edge or thickness against the blue tape.  Let it cure.  Then as you remove the blue tape, use a razor blade and CUT, not tear the caulk…neater and more waterproof.

Never have i totally scrapped up or peeled up every square inch of sealer.  If the caulking is adhered well, then the new top coat of sealer or caulk will crosslink and it is totally “waterproof”.  If you have to use a lot of muscle and putty knives and literal “cut off” the caulking….odds are…it is OK.

NOW some folks have used EternaBond to tie or seal down the flange.  This DOES require scrapping and chipping off all and getting a clean firm flat surface.  Imhave done that a few places. BUT I use Acetone (SPARINGLY) and a small bristle brush.  The acetone dissolves the loose caulk as well as “primes or activates” the surface area.  Then EternaBond adheres well.

That my take on it…..

Good Luck.

Replacement of 2006 Endeavor Shower Skylight
guy_ethier 11 hours ago

I was of the feeling that this was the only sealant one should use, based upon the manufacturer's recommendation?

Air horn solenoid location
Fasthobie16 10 hours ago

2000 Dynasty 40’. 
I have power to the 12v horn relay in the front run panel. I can feel it click when the horn button is pressed on the steering wheel. Air pressure is up. There’s no air at the horn on the roof. I’m thinking that the air solenoid is not working but pretty sure there’s power getting to it. Anyone know where it is located? Horns were working in the last month. Thanks for all the help. Jim 

FDCA Fan Controller Availability
robertmrankin6612 10 hours ago

THANK YOU MARK!!!!

GREAD INFO AND POST!!!

This is helping me greatly in figuring out what kinds of tests I'm goint to attempt.

Yet unanswered in my mind is how much current the ECM wire can provide and tolerate......more testing in my mind.

As a side note, perhaps the reason that Bill's rig goes to WAO at 7V. is because his 7-70V. pwm controller goes to zero when the input from the ECM drops below 7V.

Bob R.

 

Air horn solenoid location
jacwjames 9 hours ago

Mine was located behind the over head cabinets.  I happened to find it while replacing the TV.

Replacement of 2006 Endeavor Shower Skylight
Tom Cherry 9 hours ago

6 minutes ago, guy_ethier said:

I was of the feeling that this was the only sealant one should use, based upon the manufacturer's recommendation?

2006 Diplomat PDQ shower enclosure glass
Kenster 9 hours ago

Hypothetically speaking of course. If a guy was looking for the left hand flat glass panel for a 06 diplomat, where might someone find one?

Just asking for a friend!

Replacement of 2006 Endeavor Shower Skylight
96 EVO 9 hours ago

1 hour ago, guy_ethier said:

I was of the feeling that this was the only sealant one should use, based upon the manufacturer's recommendation?

Air horn solenoid location
Fasthobie16 8 hours ago

 

James, thanks for your reply.

So when you were replacing the TV, did  you  dismantle the box ( cabinet) that it sat in to discover  the solenoid? 

Air horn solenoid location
jacwjames 7 hours ago

I was removing the old analog TV mounted in the overhead center cabinet.  This exposed the front cap and the solenoid was behind the audio equipment cabinet above the driver.  From memory there was yellow tubing going to/from the air solenoid. 

Houghton Install/Thermostat Dead
Brad Loehr 7 hours ago

10 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

Many members have successfully kept and rewired, properly, the 5 button system.  Many members have made disparaging remarks in that we moderators don’t like the RecPro’s and they are up to day and very intelligent.  That is NOT THE CASE.  The RecPros work great as stand alone units,  if RecPro would incorporate a dry (no voltage) set of contacts that would also operate a furnace so that you had dual mode ….CHILL, OFF, HEAT….that would be a perfect solution.

I would think Recpro does not incorporate a control for an auxillary furnace into their system for a reason and never will.  The IR remote control to control the onboard thermostat and controls is a better system because everything is contained.  No need to run thermostat wiring through walls or ceilings and have to work with a wall thermostat that would fail.  Also can integrate into smart features to control the IR with your phone for only $40ish.

They are engineered in Australia so if the need for heat in your RV or caravan is a must then the heat pump will work fine to temperatures of around 0 degrees Celsius.  I imagine in Australia propane heated furnaces are overkill.

Houghton Install/Thermostat Dead
96 EVO 7 hours ago

2 minutes ago, Brad Loehr said:

   I imagine in Australia propane heated furnaces are overkill.

Actually, the Aussie's are big on installing Chinese diesel heaters, same as I did!

Ride height leveler
Gweedo 6 hours ago

Hello all, I will be replacing one of my rear ride height leveling valves.  07 HR 88R8.  Any tricks or do’s or don’t?

 

Thanks

30 amp fuse location
Keith H. 2 hours ago

OK, I STILL cannot identify the “inline” 30 amp fuse for my Kwikee steps. 
Could someone send me a picture and location of where yours is?

I have a 2003 Signature Centurion if that helps. I have searched in my engine bay fuse box, my front street side fuse bay, my fuse panel in my bedroom, the small fuse box in my closet, my battery bay and under and around the steps themselves

If I knew what I was looking for, it might help. I only know what the blade fuses you push in look like. Not sure what an “inline” fuse looks like or what it’s “housed” in for protection. 
 Thanks for helping. 

Keith

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