rpasetto

I was thinking about getting a SeeLevel II to replace my rather inaccurate Aladdin tank sensors. I didn't know they had version a version which connects to the Aladdin system. I am not sure my coach layout is the same as your 05 Exec was so I'll start looking in my bay ceilings for the Aladdin bridge. Any more info you still have on this install will be appreciated.

I can find the mate & lock connectors, pins and sockets online but not the pre-made cable ends like that. What is the URL where you found that?

If you hear the relay clicking but no current output, that sounds like burnt contacts on the relay. Sounds like what happened to me years ago... I kept the old smartwheel controller ... somewhere... there were burn signs on the board at the relay as well as J12.

Years back the Smartwheel controller on my 03 Dynasty showed burning at J12. At first I thought it was the connection but sometime later the headlight circuit went out. When I removed the smartwheel controller the circuit board where the corresponding "25a" relay was mounted showed burns as well. Some of the other circuits had been affected also. That's when I decided to make the headlight circuit permanent; durability of the on board relay is questionable.

While waiting for my790R30 to replace the old Primary filter Setup I came across a picture in the 06 Sig Manual, below. The connectors on these look just like the ones on mine, and the filter system in the picture looks like the 790R30. It looks like it will be an easy swap if nothing breaks. My concern is if those plastic connectors break, where to get a replacement, and how to install them on the hose ends. Rather than that I would prefer the field installable metal type (JIC) but still not sure what size/type of that connector to get. I wrote to Voss so hopefully answers will be forthcoming.

Check connections to be sure they are intact. The clock spring would be the next likely possibility. If yours is like mine was you can remove the center cover which exposes the wheel nut and a four wire connector. The other end of the connector is below where the steering column articulates. You will probably need to remove the cover for the steering column. Once both connector ends are uncovered you can check for continuity. When I did this I discovered one of the four wires had no continuity. That's enough to know clock spring replacement is needed. The clock spring on most early-mid 2000's Monacos is Douglas Autotech Clock Spring DAC-1900043 Installation guide can be downloaded here. http://www.douglasautotech.com/departments/service-parts/

@Mocephus, Well done. Curiously, I was working on something else in my FRB and noticed that pin2 on J12 is starting to show burn signs. Another project added to my list.

I recently got the Borg dually valve kit to get rid of those braided extensions on the drive axle. One was leaking a bit when I had a tire service do the changeover. The young man who did the job was very careful and skillful installing the inner valve and the rubber stabilizers. Glad to hear the install of replacement tires went well for you. I was always concerned that some tire shops might be unfamiliar with these stems.

I have a feeling that the relays in the SmartWheel controller are either inadequate or fail with age. The headlight relay in particular with the heaviest draw; connectors and wiring should be sized to handle the load, but wondering if they are. The crimps on the mate&lock connectors could be the problem too. Moe, can you measure the current draw on that new 10ga line? I'd like to compare it to what the same headlights draw via the normal Smartwheel setup. If resistance is nominal we should see nearly the same thru both... if not there may be significant resistance somewhere.

I recall doing this years back. I just cut off the wires mentioned below. (However, if you remove them from the connector you could always reinstall them if you decide to go back to 'factory'. There is a tool used to install & remove pins from these connectors.) Remove wires p1 and p2 from connector J12 and also remove wire p6 from J11 (Wire from headlight switch). Connect the p6 wire from headlight switch to the coil of an 87 type relay (see diagram); pins 86 and 85 connect to the coil so you could connect headlight switch wire, P6 to 86 and 85 to ground. Pin 30 of the relay should get the 12v power via the headlamp fuse in your front electrical box, that's p1 if I recall, and p2 would connect to 87 to power headlights. I strongly recommend fusing both circuits: the coil (85-86) and power (30-87) just in case there's a short somewhere. Hope this helps.

Puzzled by your statement, I looked at my owners manual thinking 'is there a way to turn on the headlights from the smart wheel?' there's no "Headlight On" button there. ... sure enough I learned that any wiper function turns on the headlights until IGN is turned off or the headlight switch is operated to ON then OFF position. (Still learning after almost 2 decades driving these; reminds me of how little I know about this coach.) @StephenW, hoping this is not hijacking your thread.

I do not know if you have the same type smartwheel controller as shown in the diagram below (Check your wiring diagram book). If it is, as a temporary fix you could unplug connectors and use the signal from pin 6 of J11 to control a 87 type relay wired to connect power between the Headlamp Source and Power (pins 1, 2 of J12). Similarly J11-p12 could be used control marker lamps (tail) via J12-p3,4 and a second relay. I recall being in a similar predicament many years back and made a temporary fix like that. You'd still be without other functions of the smartwheel controller box which are controlled by the MPX signal to the box. There's possible workarounds for those too, but I didn't explore that.

The idea of electronically controlled engine valving seems to be a logical step after other improvements to internal combustion engines like ECM controlled ignition and fuel injection over the old distributor-e or the ECM controlled fuel injection in our newer diesels which had previously been cam-driven. I hope I'm still driving when such engines become available to the general population. However, before one compares 'carbon footprint' of todays fossil fuel engines with electric motors, recall that about 2/3 of the electricity generated today is based on natural gas, coal and other fossil fuel products. Who knows what the future will bring... maybe nuclear power scaled down to motorhome size... https://www.publicpower.org/system/files/documents/Americas-Electricity-Generation-Capacity_2021-update.pdf

The front and rear Faria gauges are available on eBay. https://www.ebay.com/itm/FARIA-GE0055A-RV-MOTORHOME-FRONT-AIR-PRESSURE-GAUGE-WHITE-FACE/312773539212 https://www.ebay.com/itm/FARIA-GE00056A-AIR-PRESSURE-GAUGE-WHITE-FACE-CHROME-BEZEL-MARINE-BOAT/233346308381 Like Paul, I have a flaky fuel gauge on the multifunction Tach-Fuel-Voltage gauge. I just looked at the diagram in the Owners Manual and the positioning is flipped from the way it is on my dash ... but everything else looks correct. Could it also be that the connectors are plugged in the wrong way?

I heard about the 'Ugly Fix', if that's what you're referring to. I've heard about it with the DD60 and some with the ISX. It is in the compoany's product list but I never before heard a motorhomer with it installed on the ISM. I've looked on mine and cannot even locate the atmospheric sensor which it's supposed to replace. By 'chipped' do you mean the Ugly fix for the ISM or something else?

Connectors are the same on both sides of the old pump as shown in the earlier picture. I know the threads for input and output ports are 7/8"-14 UNF as per the Racor spec on the 790R30. However the hoses are different than any shown in this thread or in the earlier thread to which I provided a reference. If I have to cut off the old fittings, which I would need to do if the quick connects don't release properly, what fittings fit those hoses? I prefer to have parts on hand or readily available before I start a project. ----------------------------------------- Update --------------------------------------------------------- My 790R30 arrived and I had no trouble getting fittings to fit the ports of the filter (ORB # 10, 7/8x14 UNF) and the shutoff valves down to a 1/2" JIC male fitting. But there should be a connector to that 1/2"ID yellow plastic (nylon?) hose. How's best method to connect to that darn yellow hose? (see below) The hose inside measures 1/2" but it's tough to push on either regular 1/2 barb or 'push-fit' barb into that opening by hand. For now, I easily inserted the next lower size, 3/8", and they are leak tight using clamps. Engine starts and runs fine, but I am concerned that the 3/8" barb will be a restriction in the 1/2"ID fuel hose at heavy engine load. I don't want to risk fuel starvation. So far I haven't found where I could get a tool to insert 1/2" barbs into this hose. Recommendations? Also haven't found a truck place where I could get a "field attachable' fitting. I see many field attachable (reusable) fittings online, looking like the one below, but they all seem to be for a specific hose type. Tomorrow, another try, another trip to a few hydraulic hose places. If anyone has found the right connection method for this 1/2"ID, 5/8"OD yellow plastic hose let me know.

I already ordered the 790R30 unit, which is the filter head with integral pump. My question is: what fittings do I need? I already know the threads for input and output ports are 7/8"-14 UNF as per the Racor spec on the 790R30. My question is about the hose side; these hoses appear to have been molded onto the old fittings. Like I said I have never seen this type of fuel hose. Can you tell me what type of fitting to use on it?

The problem is my fittings are sort of molded on to the yellow plastic hose. If I break them I would need to get the re-usable (JIC?) type and cut off the old ones. There's a black plastic connector with the red clip... I am guessing that somehow the clip pulls away to enable the fitting to come apart allowing me to unscrew the hex part of the fitting. I have never before seen such a setup.... hoping someone here knows.

After dealing with an intermittent pump for too long it looks like the best path is to replace the old, obsolete 12962/48027 system. Fiddling with the control switch and wiring to get the pump to run has been a recurring problem. Replacing the element is also more of a hassle because of the connections for 'Drain water" feature which was never used anyway. I probably should have replaced that old unit sooner, but 'stuff happens'. If you decide to go ahead and replace yours, we both may be doing this project at about the same time. My concern is with the the fuel hose and quick connect fittings on mine. They are somehow molded into a plastic hose... most others seem to have a black rubber hose with what appear to be factory crimped fittings. Do you have the rubber hose connections like Charles' picture?... or the plastic? I am hoping someone else here has experience with the same type of fuel hose and connections as mine. I am also seeking advice on this.

Does yours look like this one? With this switch? The pump on mine is intermittent. I do not recall the old replacement but the new Racor recommended unit is the 790R30. A number of monacoers here have recommended I make the change and it has been on my "to-do" project list for a while. See this thread for more info: I am hoping to be able to re-use the quick-connect fuel fittings shown in picture above... if I can take them off without breaking them. 🙂 Paul Whittle did the upgrade and installed shut off valves which are a good idea. I will also do that after I figure out what fittings needed with the hoses on mine, which seem to be different.

Check the Monaco Parts list as well as looking for matches to the DOT number on the lens. Once you have that info check selling sites, local dealers or sellers on the internet may have what you want.

Could not have said it better!

If your two ACs are controlled by separate thermostats, swapping them would tell you whether it's a thermostat problem. If they're on the same thermostat one of the AC's would have a remote temp sensor which might have gone bad. Try Steven P's test first if the AC which is affected is on that sensor. Sensors run about 20 - 30 bucks, IIRC, so a temporary plug in of a new sensor in a different location may be a good test. Snaking the wirint would be tricky if you had to replace the sensor though.

Welcome, Tony! There are many very knowledgeable members here. Your M11 engine, and the ISM, have a great reputation. Safe Travels. Welcome Jonbrooks. That's an amazing job you did on your Aquahot heating coil!

Ya mean we gotta use corecct sppelling, and graamer? 🙂 Just to lighten the mood. Seriously though, you do raise an excellent point here, Scott.