MHRookie Posted October 18, 2020 Share Posted October 18, 2020 How have you cleaned your engine & engine bay? Engine has some oil soak areas from a rear main seal repair. Is this a glove up, spray, scrap & wipe event or what do you do? thanks, Kurt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Haggard Posted October 18, 2020 Share Posted October 18, 2020 Simple Green Full strength Rince good. Repeat if need be. Then rince with a little Dawn. Then water . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KevinH Posted October 18, 2020 Share Posted October 18, 2020 I had a hydraulic cooler leak fluid all over my radiator. A mechanic friend of mine suggested using Muscle Magic. Said they use it all the time in his shop.I sprayed it on waited five minutes and rinse it off with a power washer. He just warned me not to get it on to any aluminum products it will dull the finish. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr4Film Posted October 18, 2020 Share Posted October 18, 2020 I use Gunk Engine Brite Gel Cleaner & Purple Power, let soak, then power wash. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavidL Posted October 18, 2020 Share Posted October 18, 2020 (edited) I use engine degreaser, wait 5 minutes and hit it all with a power washer from a distance. I don't wash any of the electronics with direct blasts. Sometimes follow up with Simple Green and another power wash spray. After that, I will wire wheel any rust areas. Another spray to get rid of the dust. Wait till dry, Prepsol clean, mask, prime and paint any bare metal spots. Almost like new. Edited October 18, 2020 by DavidL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim McGarvie Posted October 18, 2020 Share Posted October 18, 2020 I have been watching this topic with interest. Cleaning the engine compartment is something I have wanted to do for quite a while, but frankly I was concerned with protecting the bedroom in the process. Does everyone just drape everything with tarps and/or painter's drop cloths? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterSchweizer Posted October 19, 2020 Share Posted October 19, 2020 I have had my rear main seal replaced on my 2004 Cayman w/ISL 300HP Cummins with 91,000 miles. I resisted and cleaned an fought it engine leak even installed a tube and drip bottle at bottom of bell housing to collect oil just a waste of energy ! and what a mess a small amount of diesel oil can do radiator, air cooler, chassis, TOOD, concrete eveywhere we went … I was in San Antonio visiting and finally had enough. Cummins wanted about $2300 to replace I called around a lot and took it to an Big truck center over 20 bays. It was Alamo City Truck Service, 210-225-5507 down the street from the AT & T Center in SE san Antonio. They did it for $1,200 incl tax and 1 year warranty They have a smaller division that worked on RVs, Buses etc. the only issues was they ( Even how big a service center they were) had to borrow a “Special tool” from Cummings, just down the street, to install the rear main seal, after 2 unsuccessful attempts to do it the “normal way”. Note that the cam shaft also has a rear seal in the bell housing area that could also be the source of the leak . They did a great job! and 12,000 miles later still not a drop. SO GLAD I bite the bullet never have to get under there an clean the MESS up. and no adding oil. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dl_racing427 Posted October 19, 2020 Share Posted October 19, 2020 I spray everything down with Simple Green, or if it's really grimy, I'll use Purple Power. Let it soak for 5 minutes or so, then rinse it thoroughly with my hot water pressure washer, set at about 250 degrees. I do it all from the back, with the bed left closed, using an extended wand, and 45 and 90 degree elbows on my nozzle to get everywhere. Once it's clean the first time, I just give it a light spray with Simple Green and a hot wash once or twice a year. The hot water under pressure really cuts through oily grime. I also made a three nozzle spray bar with wheels to wash under all my vehicles. Takes care of the salt in the winter. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RNMCBR Posted October 19, 2020 Share Posted October 19, 2020 I use LA Simply Awesome that I get at Dollar store. I put it in a pump sprayer and spray the engine, drive shaft, etc. Let it sit a few minutes and rinse with water. It is the best grease cutter I have seen. Better than gunk, simple green or any of the other degreasing detergents I have tried. And it’s cheap. Thanks to Harry M (AzHappycarz). It is also good as a laundry degreaser and will remove grease stains from your clothes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96 EVO Posted October 20, 2020 Share Posted October 20, 2020 I sprayed the top of the valve cover with Simple Green before changing out the crankcase vent filter. Only left it on a few min, but when I rinsed it off, chuncks of paint went with it! Beware using simple green!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Nodine Posted October 20, 2020 Share Posted October 20, 2020 19 hours ago, RNMCBR said: I use LA Simply Awesome that I get at Dollar store. I put it in a pump sprayer and spray the engine, drive shaft, etc. Let it sit a few minutes and rinse with water. It is the best grease cutter I have seen. Better than gunk, simple green or any of the other degreasing detergents I have tried. And it’s cheap. Thanks to Harry M (AzHappycarz). It is also good as a laundry degreaser and will remove grease stains from your clothes. I buy that stuff by the gallons at Dollar Store and use it for many different cleaning jobs. Sometimes I dilute it but usually use it full strength. As for the engine cleaning, those of you with a side radiator coach have it easy and can use a pressure washer. Since I have to wash the engine from the bedroom I just use a hose with a spray nozzle. Way to much blow back with a pressure washer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RNMCBR Posted October 20, 2020 Share Posted October 20, 2020 Dollar stores in our area stopped carrying the gallons. Not sure why. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rvingstuff Posted October 21, 2020 Share Posted October 21, 2020 Interesting topic and one I've wanted to tackle for some time. But one question: Always concerned about "flooding" the engine (Cummins ISX 600). Should the engine be running or off. Cold or warm/hot? Have any of you had trouble starting your engines AFTER cleaning? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dl_racing427 Posted October 21, 2020 Share Posted October 21, 2020 Engine can be cold or warm, but not hot, but always give enough time for the exhaust manifold and turbo to cool down before hitting it with liquid. Those can crack from thermal shock. Diesels don't have ignition systems, so unlikely to have starting issues when wet, though it's a good idea to unplug electrical connectors and blow any water out that may get by the seals. Start it after rinsing, and run long enough to dry it out before parking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Haggard Posted October 21, 2020 Share Posted October 21, 2020 1 hour ago, dl_racing427 said: Engine can be cold or warm, but not hot, but always give enough time for the exhaust manifold and turbo to cool down before hitting it with liquid. Those can crack from thermal shock. Diesels don't have ignition systems, so unlikely to have starting issues when wet, though it's a good idea to unplug electrical connectors and blow any water out that may get by the seals. Start it after rinsing, and run long enough to dry it out before parking. No, never an issue. Be cautious of electrical conectors Common sense is your friend. Use as low a pressure as you need to get the job done. Good degreasers like Awsome and simple Green 👌 allow for lower water pressure. Warm engine can be a plus. Not hot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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