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Replaced Norcold 1200LIRM


miacasa_2000

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First I'd like to say my Norcold never gave me any trouble a few years back like many of you I noticed ice cream not as hard nor the beer not as cold as they should be. A little research and found my thermistor not in spec so when I replaced that and at the same time bought a wireless 2 position thermometer I realized how much outside conditions and running on LP or AC would effect it I learned I had to always adjust the temp to conditions and wa-la ice cream and beer all good. Anyway just as we all do I thought a little preventative measure better than being stuck at a bad time or place since mine is 19 yrs old and most of the time now I'm on shore power I installed a Samsung RF18A5101SG  it's nice now they don't have handles sticking out. Going on a shake down run to Lake Kerr in about a week I'll let you know if I messed up.

Here's a few pics of before during and after I have the unit sitting in my garage. Kind of seems a shame to send it to the dump if someone needs anything not sure how that would work out I live in South Jersey.

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looks very nice, just curious how you got the new one inside....  through the front windshield or take out the front seat and through the door?  Also, certainly would not trash a working old fridge...  put it on Craig's List.  I'm sure someone will buy it.

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Wow! Great installation job.

Love the new Samsung 18 cu/ft without handles. Plus Wi-Fi to boot!

How are you planning to secure the French Door and Freezer Drawer?

I wonder if now that there are no handles that the Fridge Fixer would be the best solution.

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Great install.  I am considering the same switch in the next year.  A couple questions if I may.  First, I see the drawer fronts were installed on top of the new refrigerator, could you have left the pull out drawers on the bottom and installed the fridge above it or is there not enough room and support?.  And, did you need to make any changes to the batteries, inverter or anything else major?

 

Thank you and thanks for sharing the photos.

 

Ray

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Nice job on the install 👍

Sadly I'm still struggling with the old Norcold.  I re-insulated the boiling tube, which had chunks missing (thanks to the ultra thin foil covering), taped up any seams that had gaps (LH lower side tape had separated) and added an extra layer of EPDM to the door seals.  The center flap in the doors still isn't sealing perfectly and I need to work on that.  I've been keeping track of temps and it appears to be minimal improvement (90 outside = 50 indicated in the fridge)  However, the last road trip the inside got to 70F (which was probably 65) with 90'sF outside and 65 mph so another road trip is in order to see if it will stand the test of speed. 

48F on the fridge thermometer is really 46F according to Govee thermometer and on the IR gun reads 37F, very deceptive.  Fridge fins read 27F and back of freezer reads -18F.  Fridge fins are forming a heavy layer of ice on the RH side.  Fridge definitely is more efficient on AC vs propane, but being I'm mostly boondocking it's what we have to work with. 

This is all my little 1200 can do.  Full blast, non-stop.  The fridge thermometer should read 40 before the thermostat shuts down the boiler and that hasn't happened since June (or earlier). 

If I go replacement I'll probably do the Amish unit.  I can't afford to rely on the generator. 

Good luck finding a new home for your 1200.

- bob

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A wise man once told me nearly 6 yrs ago on another forum get rid of that POS (sound familiar). Since then I picked up on that taken that same message and passed it on. They are even older now those units. All the kits and fans and thermal cut offs will never do what your expectations are. You travels won’t be consumed with worrying about the food, how long your wife has the door opened looking for something, getting a site with shade on the refrigerator side, and waiting 2 days to get it cold just to loose it all when putting food in it. Don’t spend another dime on these units, they don’t have much room in them anyway. Your motorhome will take on a whole new meaning when its gone.

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Bob Mercier, what are those three LED looking things in the back of the refrigerator compartment at the bottom? I’m referring to the ones that look like three LED lights at the bottom of your old refrigerator compartment. It’s probably obvious to everybody else but I really don’t know what the heck they might be?

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5 hours ago, Tin man said:

Great install.  I am considering the same switch in the next year.  A couple questions if I may.  First, I see the drawer fronts were installed on top of the new refrigerator, could you have left the pull out drawers on the bottom and installed the fridge above it or is there not enough room and support?.  And, did you need to make any changes to the batteries, inverter or anything else major?

 

Thank you and thanks for sharing the photos.

 

Ray

Ray, the problem with leaving the drawers on the BOTTOM is it makes the upper shelves of the fridge pretty high. Depending on how tall your wife is, that might be an issue. It was for me which is why that drawer was removed. On my Exec, I made no changes to the batteries or the inverter. I installed mine in 2014 and have had zero problems. We full time in the coach..I changed mine out by myself in a campground. Pretty easy to do. The fridge comes in through the emergency window in the living room. If you have access to or a friend who has a forklift, this helps a lot. I made a dolly using 3/4 plywood and four large wheels the same height as the shelf I installed and it slid right into the hole.....hope this helps...Dennis

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2 hours ago, Corkman said:

Bob Mercier, what are those three LED looking things in the back of the refrigerator compartment at the bottom? I’m referring to the ones that look like three LED lights at the bottom of your old refrigerator compartment. It’s probably obvious to everybody else but I really don’t know what the heck they might be?

 

2 hours ago, Corkman said:

Bob Mercier, what are those three LED looking things in the back of the refrigerator compartment at the bottom? I’m referring to the ones that look like three LED lights at the bottom of your old refrigerator compartment. It’s probably obvious to everybody else but I really don’t know what the heck they might be?

That vent is unnecessary with the new installation. However, since it's the removable vent from the outside, it has it's advantages. I used Gorilla Tape on the inside to keep critters from finding their way inside the coach, (think wasps, flies etc.) I also kept my propane line active and can use it for my BBQ and/or campfire. Finally that access door provides easy access to the water purifier I installed on my ice maker line.....Dennis

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5 hours ago, Dennis H said:

Ray, the problem with leaving the drawers on the BOTTOM is it makes the upper shelves of the fridge pretty high. Depending on how tall your wife is, that might be an issue. It was for me which is why that drawer was removed. On my Exec, I made no changes to the batteries or the inverter. I installed mine in 2014 and have had zero problems. We full time in the coach..I changed mine out by myself in a campground. Pretty easy to do. The fridge comes in through the emergency window in the living room. If you have access to or a friend who has a forklift, this helps a lot. I made a dolly using 3/4 plywood and four large wheels the same height as the shelf I installed and it slid right into the hole.....hope this helps...Dennis

Thank you Dennis, that helps a lot.  I believe I will change mine out in October.   Thanks again.

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Roy, Great job on the installation!  

New "handle-less" RF18 has a nicer look than the OEM residentials Monaco used.  Looks like you 'repurposed' the old drawer fronts as cabinet doors up top.  You may be able to sell the doors in eBay to someone looking for panel doors on their Norcold or for using the wood panels for another purpose.

Those pics of the cabinet inside looked so familiar, reminding me of some years back, when I did the RF197 install on the '03 Dynasty I used to have.  Then I saw your signature 🙂

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WOW never expected such a response thank you all for your compliments and questions I will do my best to answer in order with some pics.

Jim: The old one went out and the new one in through the door I removed both front seats and needed every inch years ago I had replaced tv's and shortened front to back the cabinet so we could walk in without hitting it just ourselves it would not have worked this way with the original tv cabinet. FYI. I didn't and really should have removed the ice maker supply from the back first we got hung up on that had to back out and remove it, also tape your MH door frame edges. And I will try to sell the whole thing before I take it apart or dump it.  I will only keep my wood panels for any future projects.

Todd & Karen: Yes and all bins come out.

Richard: I do have the fridge fixer installed.

Ray: First I couldn't hold the fridge up to the top where the old one was the right would not open very far because of the pocket door top rail so I went as low as I could which involved difficult work to cut the main floor behind the wires to move them tighter to the wall to clear the fridge having the new fridge floor another 3" higher would have eliminated that but I wanted it as low as possible. What you think are drawers at the top are fake I used the bottom (old) cross pc. and side pc. magnetic latches and cut one drawer front in half for the top and the other in thirds for the bottom. I have made no electrical changes yet. After my shake down run if all is ok I will pull it back out to add a switch (behind one of the top fake drawers) to turn the unit off and on and add a switch and coupling for winterizing the ice maker.

Bob: I seriously thought  about the Amish route because my box was in such great shape and I wouldn't loose my junk drawers. Cost was the same.

Keith & Suzanne: If the whole thing doesn't go I would gladly give you those thing at the cost of packaging and shipping.

Bill: Ditto as above you do realize you need the whole doors for the seals. 

Dennis: I agree venting isn't necessary but access is. I also sealed my vent holes and cut a pc. of walk mat to help insulate outside wall easily pops right out. 

When I pull the unit for above mentioned work I bore you with more pics these pictures are small on my desktop but some how come out huge in here. Anyway should also mention for some reason Samsung wheels have no adjustments just screw down pads to keep it in place which you have to remove anyway but the unit does not sit level leans toward the rear thought that a little strange for a counter depth that usually is enclosed on the sides I thought that the reveal looked horrible so I attached a shim to the floor under rear rollers angle Iron under the front keeps it in place. Wood stops on the back wall for depth alignment and stops also at the top front sides wedged tight accessible thru fake drawers to keep any top side to side movement while traveling.

Roy Mercier   2003 Dynasty

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Before you trash your old Norcold, remove the wooden panel inserts from the door and store them. The wood can be used later for any cabinet project inside the coach. I saved all my door inserts and am going to be using them for a cabinet I am going to build for the bedroom.

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On 8/5/2021 at 3:39 PM, cbr046 said:

Nice job on the install 👍

Sadly I'm still struggling with the old Norcold.  I re-insulated the boiling tube, which had chunks missing (thanks to the ultra thin foil covering), taped up any seams that had gaps (LH lower side tape had separated) and added an extra layer of EPDM to the door seals.  The center flap in the doors still isn't sealing perfectly and I need to work on that.  I've been keeping track of temps and it appears to be minimal improvement (90 outside = 50 indicated in the fridge)  However, the last road trip the inside got to 70F (which was probably 65) with 90'sF outside and 65 mph so another road trip is in order to see if it will stand the test of speed. 

48F on the fridge thermometer is really 46F according to Govee thermometer and on the IR gun reads 37F, very deceptive.  Fridge fins read 27F and back of freezer reads -18F.  Fridge fins are forming a heavy layer of ice on the RH side.  Fridge definitely is more efficient on AC vs propane, but being I'm mostly boondocking it's what we have to work with. 

This is all my little 1200 can do.  Full blast, non-stop.  The fridge thermometer should read 40 before the thermostat shuts down the boiler and that hasn't happened since June (or earlier). 

If I go replacement I'll probably do the Amish unit.  I can't afford to rely on the generator. 

Good luck finding a new home for your 1200.

- bob

Bob

I went with the Amish unit because we mostly boondock. When I  changed it out I added 2 extra fans up near the vent with a switch that I can turn them on at my choice. They help a lot when its hot out side. I also ended up using his fans for the inside in front of the fins. Have not had to use more than one so far. I  have 400w of solar. But the 4 6volt batteries I'm far from confented that they would keep a res fridge going. In real hot weather I still have to have it cranked the old NorCold all the way. You really have to consider all that you do. If you go campground to campground a res fridge might work. Boondocking if I had another 6 grand to get Battle Born Battery then it might be the way to go.  

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https://rvcoolingunit.com/Norcold-Cooling-Units-Amish-Built-Brand-new-C4437.aspx

Is it the perfect unit? No. We have had it 5 years now. No major problems.  Most times we run it on 5. But when it get over 100⁰ we have to kick on the extra fans. But when its a 100⁰ were looking for cooler temperatures any way. 

Were on a three month trip now entering week 2. Will find a camp ground with full hookups next week for a day to refill our tanks & do our laundry. Then we will be back out the free stuff.  

 

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