2008 Dynasty electrical issue-melted Intellitec box

[Pduggs]

Just now, willbo777 said:

 

Agreed. 

[willbo777]

2 minutes ago, Pduggs said:

My Aladdin must be different from yours. Here is my main page. 
 

Yes yours is different.  I'm surprised that your 08 doesn't have the same one as I do.

Where the writing, "shore power selected" is, is where the messages appear when something is wrong.

[Hypoxia]

Wow, I just looked at the 2008 Dynasty Owners Manual, It has zero information on the Aladdin System.  FWIW, my Signature's Aladdin display is the same as Bills, willbo777.

[veraken]

We also have/recommend the Progressive Industries HW50C. In addition I have the following which I use to check the pedestal before backing in to a campsite.

https://www.amazon.com/Progressive-Industries-Receptacle-Tester-Black/dp/B088D2JVN4/ref=sr_1_14?dchild=1&keywords=50+AMP+pedestal+checker&qid=1617399909&sr=8-14

[Pduggs]

17 minutes ago, Hypoxia said:

Wow, I just looked at the 2008 Dynasty Owners Manual, It has zero information on the Aladdin System.  FWIW, my Signature's Aladdin display is the same as Bills, willbo777.

Yeah. I checked my manual and there is little info. I’m guessing Monaco used a higher end Aladdin in the higher end coaches. Or maybe it was an option my original owner didn’t buy. 

[Pduggs]

I have this screen in the bedroom. The one on the dash is a Sony. This one is a Kenwood like yours. It doesn’t seem to work. 
 

[willbo777]

Have you checked the connections to it?  Should be a coax going to it.  Also, at least in our coach, up under the dash accessible through a panel in the top of the dash is the Aladdin switch box, check it to be sure the coax is plugged in there.

[birdshill123]

Good morning Hypoxia. My screen does not show anything electrical. There  is a system options choice but then it calls for a code to enter. My manual  briefly covers the Alladin. I guess I did not pay for the full meal deal!

Willbo. My screen does show a video choice. Maybe that coax is part of that selection. 

[Frank McElroy]

For the 2008 model year, Monaco was transitioning to a chassis multiplex system, using the 10 button Medallion screen display, and phasing out the Aladdin.  For early 08 Dynasty models they used an Aladdin Junior.  Missing on the Aladdin Jr were the tank monitoring and shore power electrical monitoring systems.  On some Dynasty's, Monaco added the transfer switch remote monitor to the cabinet above the passenger seat.

[Bliksem]

22 hours ago, Dr4Film said:

Would you please share where these three boxes are located in your coach and what function each one performs?

Right rear inside the closet. they protect the 110v system so you can not have to many big draws on at the same time. On both the boxes I replace it was the heated floor circuit that had failed first in the main area and the in the bathroom.

[Dr4Film]

Thanks, that makes sense. Not too many owners on this site have coaches with heated floors. I was just wondering where the additional boxes would be used.

Seems like they need to design a better load sharing device.

[birdshill123]

Thanks Frank. I now feel left out! ButIcould install that remote

[Bobbyboy]

I assume this thread is about the Load Shedding Device that went bad.  I have an 08 dynasty and although mine did not "burn up"  it quit working.  I did what Frank suggested and just put in a junction box, then put a small sign on the washer:''turn off A/C before using washer".  Problem solved;  and if by accident both are turned on at same time, the breaker trips.  After replacing that box twice, I put in the junction box.

 

Bob L, 08 dynasty

[Pduggs]

On 11/12/2021 at 12:52 PM, Frank McElroy said:

For the 2008 model year, Monaco was transitioning to a chassis multiplex system, using the 10 button Medallion screen display, and phasing out the Aladdin.  For early 08 Dynasty models they used an Aladdin Junior.  Missing on the Aladdin Jr were the tank monitoring and shore power electrical monitoring systems.  On some Dynasty's, Monaco added the transfer switch remote monitor to the cabinet above the passenger seat.

That makes sense. My coach was shipped on June 11, 2007. Must have been one of the earliest built 2008 Dynasty’s.  
 

[Frank McElroy]

43 minutes ago, Pduggs said:

That makes sense. My coach was shipped on June 11, 2007. Must have been one of the earliest built 2008 Dynasty’s.  
 

My Dynasty was one of the first 08 models built in March/April 07.  It came with an Aladdin Jr that I later upgraded to a full Aladdin.  I also added the remote display for the transfer switch to the cabinet above the passenger seat so I could see the voltage and amp draw on each AC line.  Later in the 08 model year they added the ten button pad for the Medallion LCD display that also had engine/trans/ABS diagnostics, the remote transfer switch display and basically did away with the Aladdin system.

[amphi_sc]

The original post has a statement about the "dryer" not working that confuses the heck out of me.  My coach should be very very similar and for me that box behind the washers/dryer stack is 120v for the bedroom heat pump and washer shared circuit, not at all associated with the 240v dryer.  When mine gave out years ago I replaced it with a new unit from eBay and we now always turn off the BR heat pump/AC when washing so the load switching relay won't arc when the washer draws >2amps killing the juice to a running roof unit ... and then when the washer temporarily uses less juice mid cycle the relay would re-engage starting up the roof unit for a couple seconds again only to be killed almost immediately again by the washer drawing a bit more juice.  The box is still used as a safety precaution so the wiring doesn't get accidentally overloaded, but we are trained to turn off the BR roof unit during wash days to minimize short cycling the roof unit as short cycling it doesn't do it any favors either.  IMHO, yours likely failed due to the relay arcing too many times over the years.  

But back to the original diagnosis about the dryer ... There could be another hidden electrical problem if that box is somehow wired into the 240v dryer circuit too.  The dryer should have its own 240v sub panel double pole breaker under the washer/dryer stack as that 240v circuit is fed directly from the main lugs of the front main electrical panel without any breaker up front.  The dryer should have still functioned with the said box being blown.  We have a gas stove top so not sure how the all electric coach load shares an electric cook top.  My Aqua Hot electric element is load shared with the front heat pump unit via an identical box giving priority to the roof unit.  Rather than having a single master EMS brain I have multiple of these individual load sharing boxes hidden around the coach.

When you replace the box be sure you wire the correct wire through the current sensing loop so the correct function is maintained.

BTW, my '07 chassis built Sept '06 with the full version Aladdin.  

FWIW

 

 

 

[Pduggs]

19 minutes ago, amphi_sc said:

The original post has a statement about the "dryer" not working that confuses the heck out of me.  My coach should be very very similar and for me that box behind the washers/dryer stack is 120v for the bedroom heat pump and washer shared circuit, not at all associated with the 240v dryer.  When mine gave out years ago I replaced it with a new unit from eBay and we now always turn off the BR heat pump/AC when washing so the load switching relay won't arc when the washer draws >2amps killing the juice to a running roof unit ... and then when the washer temporarily uses less juice mid cycle the relay would re-engage starting up the roof unit for a couple seconds again only to be killed almost immediately again by the washer drawing a bit more juice.  The box is still used as a safety precaution so the wiring doesn't get accidentally overloaded, but we are trained to turn off the BR roof unit during wash days to minimize short cycling the roof unit as short cycling it doesn't do it any favors either.  IMHO, yours likely failed due to the relay arcing too many times over the years.  

But back to the original diagnosis about the dryer ... There could be another hidden electrical problem if that box is somehow wired into the 240v dryer circuit too.  The dryer should have its own 240v sub panel double pole breaker under the washer/dryer stack as that 240v circuit is fed directly from the main lugs of the front main electrical panel without any breaker up front.  The dryer should have still functioned with the said box being blown.  We have a gas stove top so not sure how the all electric coach load shares an electric cook top.  My Aqua Hot electric element is load shared with the front heat pump unit via an identical box giving priority to the roof unit.  Rather than having a single master EMS brain I have multiple of these individual load sharing boxes hidden around the coach.

When you replace the box be sure you wire the correct wire through the current sensing loop so the correct function is maintained.

BTW, my '07 chassis built Sept '06 with the full version Aladdin.  

FWIW

 

 

 

I have two intellitec boxes behind the dryer. One is wired to the washer and the other to the dryer. The one wired to the dryer melted. It must also be wired to the bedroom heat pump because it was turned on but everything else was off in the bedroom, including the washer and dryer. 

Could you please expound on your point about the sensing loop?  Others have stated much the same, but I’m not familiar with the terminology. 

[amphi_sc]

Hi Paul,

I re-attached your pictures, but sorry that I can't draw circles and highlighting arrows on your photos using the device I'm currently posting this with.

Paying attention to the wiring diagram on the box, notice the Primary Load has the "hot" black going through the coil shown on the bottom right of the diagram and then up to the load terminal block.  And in the picture of your burnt box, you can see that black wire in the bottom of the picture as it goes through that wide black loop before attaching to the 2nd terminal from the top.  It's starting to exceed my knowledge, but I think via a Hall Effect ... as the primary load current passes through that wide black loop it generates a magnetic field which causes current in the loop to be detected thus enabling the relay to open thereby removing power from the secondary device.  When there is "not much" current passing on the primary load wire, both devices are supplied power.

Perhaps your dryer is a 120v replacement dryer?  I see a somewhat new energy sticker still on the front.  Ours is the original 240V Maytag and the dryer sub panel with the double 240V breaker is behind that little flip door near the floor under the washer in your 1st picture.  What does your front main panel say regarding the breakers for the BR A/C and Washer?  Mine clearly shows one breaker controling both.  I'm kinda curious as to what actual devices are attached as loads in your case... to both boxes behind the units.... heated floors, electric range, Aqua Hot 2nd electric element?  I think a central vac had it's own dedicated circuit.

[birdshill123]

If this 08 Dynasty is the same as mine it has a 120 volt Splendide dryer. Somehow I thought that if your inverter shore power is set to 50 amp everything can operate. But I do not remember if we ever used the rear air with the dryer.

[Pduggs]

Yeah dryer is 120VAC.
 

Thanks for the help. 

Edited November 19, 2021 by Pduggs

[96 EVO]

5 hours ago, birdshill123 said:

  But I do not remember if we ever used the rear air with the dryer.

Same!

I just checked and my center and bedroom HP's are on the same leg with the washer & dryer, so if all 4 appliances were running at the same time, it would be a pretty good load on one 50A leg. Mine also has a 120v dryer.

[amphi_sc]

I guess the advantage you guys have with the 120v dryer is you could carefully do laundry at a 30 amp campsite as opposed to the factory installed a 240v Maytag in mine so I need a full phase connection.  In your cases, the washer shares with one A/C (BR?) and the dryer with another A/C (Middle?).  Interesting. My dryer draws about max 8 amps 240v so not much of a problem running all three A/Cs.  Add in the convection oven and still pretty well balanced with oven + BR A/C or washer + dryer then Middle A/C + Front A/C or Aqua Hot + dryer.  Sometimes I think it might be better to load share the Aqua Hot with the middle A/C instead, but if I had a true full coach EMS that looked at the big picture it would be better yet than these individual boxes with two appliances each.

BTW Bruce, as far as I know, the 50a 30a 20a 15a etc setting on my original factory Magnum only controls how much current the Magnum will draw to charge the batteries and does nothing as an EMS for the appliances.  It'd be pretty rare for me to approach 50a on one leg to cause the Magnum to throttle it's charge draw.  I'd probably need to run the leg with the 2 heat pumps + dryer and throw on a Milkhouse space heater in the back or bathroom with the batteries needing a bulk charge. Sometimes though, I wish for a Hybrid inverter that could supplement from the batteries when stuck with 30a on a hot day with no shade trees.