Jump to content

No water pressure or volume from city water


ktloah
Go to solution Solved by ktloah,

Recommended Posts

Hello everyone, we are currently in Myrtle Beach and have had a problem on the road with trying to get water throughout the MH. It starts off fine then slows to a trickle. The pump was replaced last year, and seems like there is a restriction  somewhere. Second issue is when we hooked up to CG water, same problem. I've replace water pressure regulator but still no water. Is there a check valve I'm  missing? Ronnie B. 04 Dynasty 

Edited by ktloah
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Something to check,

Not sure if you have a filter system (little blue) if you don't have a system you may have been hooked up to a water source with a lot of minerals in the water or just plain sand. we were hooked up in a site out side of Madison Wisconsin on our way to gulf shores, it was the simple fix but I was looking for something else for some reason, all the faucets are fairly high end and came with incredibly small screens, I went around to each faucet took them all apart and cleaned them,water pressure back to normal.

Hopefully it is this simple for you

Wayne 

1999 Signature ceaser 

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Process of elimination:

Are all faucets acting same way (including shower and washing machine)?  If so, then not too likely all got clogged at same time (possible though).  Easiest is to remove one spigot filter and inspect.

If there is a system filter, that is highly likely the issue.  Replace it anyway.

Does this happen when on pump and on land water connection?  If so, then not the pump or likely not the check valve.

does the fresh tank fill?  If so, then not the filter.

Anything more than the above requires surgery to open up the system systematically to isolate the blockage.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok, thought so but wasn't  quite sure. I replaced the water pressure regulator, thought that might have been it but no joy...that is where my city water hose connects...thx

 

 

 

Edited by ktloah
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I typed a LOT….then got curious.  You need to read Chapter 6 of your manual and the look carefully at the diagram.  IF I “understand” it…

Can you use the city/fill valve (which per the manual) has a built in rehydration…?  If you hear or see the tank level rise….then the inline check probably is OK.  

Then, you said the pump doesn’t work.  That would mean that the tank would be refilling when in use….if that is not happening….there is a restriction.

I did a screen shot of the diagram so that folks are “shotgunning”…..will have some real insight.  look at it here as well as in the manual…….

I think you have an obstruction in the water filters.  Taking out the filters will not fix that.  I don’t know how accessible the filters are, but my system came with a shirt bypass hose to keep from putting RV antifreeze in the plastic bowls. Mine has winged fittings to unscrew and put in the short pex line.  If you don’t have the winged fittings, unscrew the inlet and go to a hardware store or big box and get the mating threaded fitting and a short length of 1/2” reinforced clear hose (Lowe’s has it and fitting s that take hose clamps and make up a bypass and totally bypass the filter.  One way…messy….turn off the CG faucet. Undo the inlet to the water filter  aim it somewhere of aim it inside your sewer hose….have someone turn it on.  Pressure and flow….then it is one of the filter housings.

The filters are the only common point of restriction….maybe others will chime in…and I may be wrong….but from a schematic standpoint….the filter housings are the first common point.

You are lucky to have the diagram.  Read and noodle and use it….let us know….

2C8D79EB-AB99-40C1-8B6A-08773C0C17EC.png

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

57 minutes ago, Frank Bergamo said:

What kind of a fill valve do you have? Is it manual or electric. If electric Red Hat valve, could be leaking past the diaphragm.

I believe I put the garden hose to the pump one time,did not turn it on full just enough pressure to get the flow going,that may help eliminate any restrictions from the pump to the faucets. 

Wayne 

1999 Signature ceaser 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, ktloah said:

Hey Willbo, where would I find this plastic check valve?

Mine is just after the hose reel, you can see it in Tom's picture.  I am still voting that that is your problem.  As you can see the diagram it would affect city water but not your pump.  I have gotten to the point where I can replace it in under 3 minutes with no tools.  

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, willbo777 said:

Mine is just after the hose reel, you can see it in Tom's picture.  I am still voting that that is your problem.  As you can see the diagram it would affect city water but not your pump.  I have gotten to the point where I can replace it in under 3 minutes with no tools.  

His problem is with BOTH pump and city.  

2 hours ago, ktloah said:

Thanks Tom, I have no manual that came with the coach...but your suggestions seem to be on the right track as far as the filters having a restriction. Thank you

https://www.monacocoach.com/service-and-repairs/
 

Use this link.  Download the owners manual.  then Download the sales brochure.  The Sales Brochure is chocked full of info if you get to the end.  It gives you the info on what was standard and every “feature”.  That is what I use to see what was installed before trying to help someone.  You might put a permanent “search link” in EBay and also get a hard copy of the manual.  It had the schematics or wiring diagrams in the back, but the downloaded one doesn’t.  I don’t know if we have a set of the wiring diagrams in the files.  This will get you started.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Quick comment.  IF you have a pressure tank on your system like what came from the factory on our '06 Dynasty, that would explain why you have good pressure for several seconds.  That tank, if you have one, should be "downstream" from your check valve as well as your filters.  So it would let you enjoy full system pressure (pump pressure if not connected to shore water, and shore water pressure if connected to that source) for maybe ten seconds or so.  You would start seeing a decreasing flow after four or five seconds after which it would drop to whatever your restriction is causing it to be.

That tank, if you have one, would likely be blue in color, maybe 12" to 14" long or tall, and maybe 10" to 12" in diameter, and it would be pretty much mid-ship in the same bay as your water connections, hose reel, etc.  It will likely be where you can't see it from the "outside world", but maybe access it thru a hatch between your wet bay and an adjacent pass-thru storage bay.

ALSO - Looking at Tom Cherry's drawing, if your "City Water" valve is partially open, that would allow city water to run into your fresh tank thus robbing some of your pressure.  It would also allow the pump to circulate some of your water back to the tank thus robbing some of your pressure.  If this were true, you would experience water coming from your fresh tank overflow line(s) under your coach if you were on city water, and you would likely experience your pump running continuously if you were not connected to city water but your pump switch was in the "ON" position.  It's a possibility.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1. Always flush the campground water source for a minute to clear any debris (mud and sand), and sanitize the hose bibb threads.

2. Try disconnecting the hose either at the reel or the check valve and run city water through to flush any debris.  Note the flow rate.

3. Place valve in city water position to eliminate fresh water tank and pump from circuit.

4. Remove pipe/hose from inlet side of filter and flush. Note flow rate.  Replace connection and run flush with filter cans removed.  Note flow rate.

5. Put the cans back on without the filters. remove the connection on the output side of the filters and flush. Note the flow rate.

6. Replace the connection to the filter output, remove all screen filters and clean them, then open all faucets and note the flow rate.

7. Turn off faucets one at a time and note flow rate.  At this point you should know at least where your problem lies.  Getting to the location where the blockage is might be the hardest part, but at least you know where to start.  The plumbing is usually PEX-A, but 1/4" and 3/8" takes a special tool and if the blockage is in the pipe line you will need an RV tech.

The bladder tank, if you have one should be set to the same value as your pressure reducing valve.  The PRV is shown at the end of your hose on the reel and is replaceable.  I take a water pressure gauge and measure pressure somewhere on the service side of the PRV.  If you have an adjustable in-line PRV you can set the pressure to a known value.  The point is that the bladder tank has a Schroeder valve (bicycle tire) and you add or remove pressure to match the static pressure of the system with the PRV set to the desired pressure.  It should be in the 35-65 lb. range.  Note that if you set pressure at 8,000 ft. asl keep it on the low side unless you want to readjust to lower altitudes when you come off the mountain.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Solution

Ok, the water problem seems to be solved...I removed the filter housing to check for blockage thru the water passages...nothing found. Reinstalled in coach and started pump. My helper said he saw something come out the feed line to the filters. The next thing we found was the carbon filter water inlet was the size of a pin!! The filters were just installed before our trip. RESTRICTION! Drilled it out to 3/8", reinstalled and everything seems to be working. Thank you to all that responded. This is a wonderful and helpful group...

Edited by ktloah
Link to comment
Share on other sites

22 minutes ago, ktloah said:

Ok, the water problem seems to be solved...I removed the filter housing to check for blockage thru the water passages...nothing found. Reinstalled in coach and started pump. My helper said he saw something come out the feed line to the filters. The next thing we found was the carbon filter water inlet was the size of a pin!! RESTRICTION! Drilled it out to 3/8", reinstalled and everything seems to be working. Thank you to all that responded. This is a wonderful and helpful group...

Wonderful.  The filters, per the diagram, had to be the source of the restriction.  Having that diagram and not shotgunning with suggestions that are not pertinent to your particular Coach saved a lot of “looking for something to fix that was never in the system”.

Now download the sales brochure and owners manuals.  Then download this. Mit will be close to yours.

These are critical. Read the manual.  Get the model number off your inverter and AquaHot and leveling and download those manual.  All will be needed.  IF, by chance there is a 1 or 2 page sheet that is in a closet that has the items like air conditioners and refrigerator and such….go through it and download the manual for each.  The model and brand will be there. It is not necessary to download the one for the tires…LOL…But they will be on that sheet.

Good Luck.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

22 hours ago, willbo777 said:

Mine is just after the hose reel, you can see it in Tom's picture.  I am still voting that that is your problem.  As you can see the diagram it would affect city water but not your pump.  I have gotten to the point where I can replace it in under 3 minutes with no tools.  

Have you tried a butterfly check valve? 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...