New Trojan Batteries….Questions and help needed.

[Donflem]

I just put in 10 new batteries 8 Trojan house batteries. I have been running the genny at night before I go to bed to top off the batteries but when I get up in the morning and turn on the coffee pot the AGS kicks in. I’m only running a small fan in the bedroom and a couple of Apple chargers for the phones. It seems like I shouldn’t have that much of a draw. Is it possible I didn’t hook everything up right when I replaced all the batteries?

Don

[vito.a]

Anything that uses electricity to produce heat uses a lot of electricity.  How many watts is your coffee maker?

It's probably loading up your inverter enough to drop the voltage below the AGS setting.  You probably should check the AGS voltage setting also.  

Any it will take a few 24/7 days to charge those batteries. 

[Donflem]

How do I check the voltage setting? What should it be at?

[Rocketman3]

One device that helped me really understand the batteries is a Victron Smartshunt (or BMV712).  This is a shunt based battery monitor (costs abt $130).

It let’s me know what percentage my batteries are - I.e. 72%. This is really good for recharging lead batteries- cause then you know - if you need to recharge and when to stop the generator. 
 

Also, to help with your current question of why did the AGS start? It has a trend feature that records the data. So for example, I just ran my microwave off the inverter for lunch.  I can see my voltage before was 14.25v (my batteries were in the absorbing phase), then dropping to abt 13.35v while it was running- then climbed back up. You don’t need to be looking at it to see those numbers- it reports it in the graph- after the event is over. 
 

with the correct data you can then decide if the AGS  is set too high, or if it needs a delay added (if it’s possible with your unit).

It is easy to install - attach a cable to the most negative battery terminal- attach that cable to the battery side of the shunt and move all the other negative cables to the load side of the shunt. (That way all power into or out of the battery goes through the shunt). Attach a small power wire - and your done. 
 

Now if you already have another brand of shunt based battery monitor- maybe it can tell you what happened. 
 

Good Luck
 

 

[Tom Cherry]

As a matter for information, you have, unless someone upgraded your system the standard Magnum Remote and Inverter.  A Battery Monitor device or shunt is a useful tool, it your are knowledgeable and precise and want instant information.  Magnum makes a Battery Monitoring Kit that requires a new more complicated remote and a custom install.  Many folks have them.  However the bulk don’t and we get along wuite well with the OEM standard remote and get 7 or 8 years out of good Trojan batteries.  Not to be disrespectful, but your level of understanding is not quite at the point of getting full utilization of the add on monitor or upgrading to the Magnum system.  I didn’t, but I understand how they work and that level of measurement is not necessary….after you understand the basics.  I wrote, at the request of many members, two tutorials.

Please download these two files.  You need to understand what you need to do for your batteries and how to properly setup your Magnum….and that is critical as your Magnum is working hard to keep them charged.  The way you phrased your question and the concerns about what you are doing indicates that both these will be very beneficial.

The first issue is that constantly running the generator for short period and not knowing when to run and for how long will greatly decrease the useful life of the batteries.

Next is to review and go through all the setup step.  Each one in the file is dual duty as the newer remotes have more features and the options or parameters are expressed differently or numbered differently.  You should have a copy of your Magnum remote in the “briefcase” that came with the Motor Home.  If not download the Magnum Remote.  There are probably 4 versions of the file as Magnum kept changing the order and ways.  BUT, any of the manuals details HOW to do the setup and use the rotary knob and the buttons. That has never changed….

You also don’t state what type of camping you are doing and if you have a res refrigerator.  The rule of thumb is that with a res refer, one needs to run the generator for 3 or so hours every 24 hours.  NOW…that also assumes that one is aware of how to conserve power.

 First, get rid of the Halogen bulbs and replace with DIMMABLE LED arays.  Not every light needs to be done….but all the overheads (obviously NOT the fluorescent ones).  The lights under the counter and the Vanity.  The overhead reading light above the driver and passenger don’t get enough use…so they stay.

Second, turn OFF the icemaker in ANY refrigerator.  Use the ECONOMY setting if you have a Res Refer(google the model and read the manual 

Third….out power strips on all the devices in each Home entertainment center.  You have a surge suppressor ATS.  You do NOT need or use s second one.  Just a plain ON/OFF one.  The Standby mode sucks up capacity.

Next.  Never run the microwave or any appliances or devices that pull high wattage (1000 watts or more) on the inverter.  The batteries were designed for gradual or lower loads but over a longer period of time. Crank the genny.  Let it run for 3 minutes and then use the microwave or hair dryer or coffee pot.

The setting of your AGC is critical.  You want to run down the batteries to around 12.0 VDC.  But your Magnum is reading the LOADED voltage.  When you pull off or turn off the high load, the voltage pops back up.  I recommend setting the AGS to 11.9 VDC….and the  let normal gradual loads pull it down. Put on a power hog like a coffee pop and the voltage will sink like a lead sinker.  But a gradual draw down will effectively use or discharge the batteries as designed.

Thats it.  I think if you have a res refer and don’t run s lot of water or ceiling fans and such, then you will be able to run the generator for say 5 1/2 - 6 hours using the 11.9 VDC.  You MUST set the run hours….if this is GREEK, the tutorial and your manual will explain it.

The BATTERY 101 was also written to help folks really UNDERSTAND batteries and also to know that one needs to out forth the effort to get good life,

Good Luck.

 

[96 EVO]

3 hours ago, Donflem said:

I just put in 10 new batteries 8 Trojan house batteries. I have been running the genny at night before I go to bed to top off the batteries but when I get up in the morning and turn on the coffee pot the AGS kicks in. I’m only running a small fan in the bedroom and a couple of Apple chargers for the phones. It seems like I shouldn’t have that much of a draw. Is it possible I didn’t hook everything up right when I replaced all the batteries?

Don

It's possible your AGS voltage setting is far too high!

As an example.... I have 4 - 8yr old house batteries. I use my coffee maker on inverter when I'm purposely drawing down my house bank to exercise them. It's a 'Carafe' style coffee maker, so, no hot plate. It draws 90 DC amps while brewing.

I'm making 6 pots of coffee back to back, and when the load comes off the batteries after the 6th brew, my battery bank bounces back to 12.2-12.3 volts!

I have my AGS set to start the gen at 11.7 volts, basically so the coffee maker won't cause the gen to start up unnecessarily!

[Donflem]

Thanks for all the information guys. Tom, thanks for the info. I am going to download and save those two files. I don’t have a residential refrigerator yet. I still have the norcold. I do have LEDs in all the overhead lights I have regular TVs I don’t have surroundsound, so I keep the bedroom one unplugged unless I’m using it. I will get out the magnum book and read on the set up for the AGS, I do most of my camping Boondocking, so what I have been doing is running my generator in the morning when I get up for an hour and then depending on how hot it is during the day a couple times for an hour and less if it’s hot and I just run it obviously because of the air conditioners . I usually run it before I go to bed for an hour to top it off. I really never paid attention before other than to make sure the batteries were full once a month but now that I had to buy and install new batteries, I’m paying more attention. It’s funny when you spend somebody else’s money, you don’t pay attention , lol I learned that from years of truck driving when I was spending their money for fuel and maintenance. I try to do all my maintenance and pay attention to everything that’s going on with the motorhome. I cannot tell you guys how much I’ve learned this from reading everybody’s stories, and how to fix things , great source of knowledge. I always sit up and take note when Tom steps up and gives out his great information. i’m sitting in silver springs Nevada right now at Lake Lahotan with my grandkids when I get them to settle down later I will do some reading. Something I’ve always wondered on. Can you run a residential refrigerator if you Boondock most of the time?

Thanks again for all your input and advice.

[Tom Cherry]

24 minutes ago, 96 EVO said:

It's possible your AGS voltage setting is far too high!

As an example.... I have 4 - 8yr old house batteries. I use my coffee maker on inverter when I'm purposely drawing down my house bank to exercise them. It's a 'Carafe' style coffee maker, so, no hot plate. It draws 90 DC amps while brewing.

I'm making 6 pots of coffee back to back, and when the load comes off the batteries after the 6th brew, my battery bank bounces back to 12.2-12.3 volts!

I have my AGS set to start the gen at 11.7 volts, basically so the coffee maker won't cause the gen to start up unnecessarily!

WARNING…..Further blasphemous statements may result in severe burns from excessive flaming and we, the moderators, will be powerless to protect you, Ben….you are going where angels fear to tread…..  OK…now in all seriousness, I totally agree with you but had to be MORE conservative in my Magnum and Battery tutorials.  For those who might be interested….here is the rationale….and I ran this by Magnum.

The Magnum AGS reacts pretty quickly in that the remote is sensing the battery voltage..Magnum will confirm that “what you see ain’t exactly what it is”.  I have checked my original remote and the replacements during draw down.  I recorded the Remote and the actual Battery VDC (high quality VOM).  My remote displays a voltage that is 0.10 -0.15 VDC LOWER than what is really going on at the Battery.  So….I always set my AGS lower.  

Next up.  I confirmed and discussed with both Magnum and Trojan that the “SOC” or the voltage published in the charts is SUPPOSED to be measured about 5 minutes or so AFTER the load (drain or use or drawdown) has been removed…..AND one should pull the jumpers to disconnect the batteries from the inverter and let them, bounce back. THEREFORE….I KNOW, from doing this per Magnum and Trojan, that when I let the batteries, RECOVER, they are going to read about 0.10 - 0.15 VDC higher.  So….in the real world….set the AGS to 12.0.  Opps….the Meter will start the AGS at say 12.1. VDC….as read UNDER LOAD.  But, then….stop the AGS…quickly….let the batteries recover.  That will add another 0.10.  SO, in reality….i wanted to start the AGS at the 50% SOC of 12.0 VDC….but in reality, I am only draining them to about 60%.  IF Ben’s meter has the same trends or inaccuracies as mine, he is probably hitting the target of 50%.

BUT…..many will flame and such and quote the “chart number” without understanding that Ben’s number is really pretty accurate.  I asked Magnum WHY they don’t explain this and put it into the manual… TOO COMPLICATED….

OK….I agree with Ben, but had to yield to the confusion that I might create if I used my setting also….LOL!

13 minutes ago, Donflem said:

Thanks for all the information guys. Tom, thanks for the info. I am going to download and save those two files. I don’t have a residential refrigerator yet. I still have the norcold. I do have LEDs in all the overhead lights I have regular TVs I don’t have surroundsound, so I keep the bedroom one unplugged unless I’m using it. I will get out the magnum book and read on the set up for the AGS, I do most of my camping Boondocking, so what I have been doing is running my generator in the morning when I get up for an hour and then depending on how hot it is during the day a couple times for an hour and less if it’s hot and I just run it obviously because of the air conditioners . I usually run it before I go to bed for an hour to top it off. I really never paid attention before other than to make sure the batteries were full once a month but now that I had to buy and install new batteries, I’m paying more attention. It’s funny when you spend somebody else’s money, you don’t pay attention , lol I learned that from years of truck driving when I was spending their money for fuel and maintenance. I try to do all my maintenance and pay attention to everything that’s going on with the motorhome. I cannot tell you guys how much I’ve learned this from reading everybody’s stories, and how to fix things , great source of knowledge. I always sit up and take note when Tom steps up and gives out his great information. i’m sitting in silver springs Nevada right now at Lake Lahotan with my grandkids when I get them to settle down later I will do some reading. Something I’ve always wondered on. Can you run a residential refrigerator if you Boondock most of the time?

Thanks again for all your input and advice.

Thanks for the kind words.  I actually got on a taller soapbox to protect Ben!.

YES….DOUBLE YES.  The folks that attend the Gathering are a mixed bag.  We had a rousing discussion in 2018.  I did a quick presentation on installing my Res Samsung and had measured the draw.  I and at least 4 others had completed the same experiment.  The consensus of the folks with more years of converting from gas to res….a four battery bank will run quite comfortably if you start the genny and run it for a few hours every 24 hours.  The variables were your Fantastic fan snd water pump use….as well as TV and satellite.  But, if you out yourself in the energy diet….you would get 24 hours….so, in your case, 48 hours.  Some folks with the OEM res and your bank can go 3…..but don’t push it.

Thats the way I see it..l.have fun.  Our GK’s spent more than 1/3 of the time out with us….or over 7 FULL months over a 10 year period….we averaged almost 60 nights per year…

[cbr046]

I bought a pair of these - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07V8S9PCX/ for $12

to monitor my house and chassis banks.  No, they don't provide a graph but they fit the budget and give state-of-charge in percent.  I tapped each monitor into one side of the BATTERY switch.  I made the bracket from sheet aluminum, cutting the holes with a "nibbler".  And absolutely not are they approved by NASA or traceable to NIST standards. 

I used to run my generator (boondocking) until bedtime to keep the batteries up, but after installing these I discovered I could run off the inverter all day and night until 1am (usually just the tv, satellite, propane fridge and a few necessary lights) and mayyyybe run the generator the next day.  Saved me a lot of fuel! 

Just an alternative to a $130 voltage monitor.

- bob

[96 EVO]

If you only plan on coddling your batteries with small loads, like a LED TV, and a few lights and water pump, by all means, set your AGS to start when your house bank reaches 12.0v.

Now, if you plan on using your batteries for some heavier, but short duration loads, like coffee maker, microwave, your going to need to set your AGS LOWER, but pay more attention to your house battery voltage. When there is very little load on your batteries, and they drop to 12.0v, it's time to charge them.

They installed a 2000W inverter, cause they wanted me to use it!

I should add a caveat to this post..... I never did like the sound the factory installed Sharp microwave made when powered by the MSW inverter, and stopped using it without gen, or shore power. I did have to replace it for unrelated reasons, and the new unit has never run on inverter power.

 

 

 

Edited June 25, 2023 by 96 EVO

[Ivan K]

For what it's worth, we boondock whenever possible and for that reason I don't run any high current appliances on inverter to preserve batteries. Generator runs twice a day for what it takes to brew coffee,  sometimes a little microwave time.  Maybe an hour a day. My AGS is at 11.8v also. For a quick look I have a cheap but capable shunt monitor and if I want to see charts, Victron solar controller gives me all I need. I would want a controller with that capability if I did not have one yet. For instance:

[96 EVO]

Ivan, when I'm boondocking with nearby neighbors, I need my coffee hours before what would be 'socially acceptable' to fire up the generator 😁!

[Ivan K]

28 minutes ago, 96 EVO said:

Ivan, when I'm boondocking with nearby neighbors, I need my coffee hours before what would be 'socially acceptable' to fire up the generator 😁!

Well, that could be a problem with neighbors but they are usually the ones running them most of the time with no regard. Even Quiet Diesel is not that quiet for long. I try to find a solitary place to stay away from them for that reason. Good thing I'm not an early bird 🙂

[Tom Cherry]

14 hours ago, cbr046 said:

I bought a pair of these - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07V8S9PCX/ for $12

to monitor my house and chassis banks.  No, they don't provide a graph but they fit the budget and give state-of-charge in percent.  I tapped each monitor into one side of the BATTERY switch.  I made the bracket from sheet aluminum, cutting the holes with a "nibbler".  And absolutely not are they approved by NASA or traceable to NIST standards. 

I used to run my generator (boondocking) until bedtime to keep the batteries up, but after installing these I discovered I could run off the inverter all day and night until 1am (usually just the tv, satellite, propane fridge and a few necessary lights) and mayyyybe run the generator the next day.  Saved me a lot of fuel! 

Just an alternative to a $130 voltage monitor.

- bob

That is a good thing to have as an “indicator”.  However it is not an alternative to the Battery Monitor systems or the Magnum BMK.  They actually have a shunt installed and are measuring the “capacity” or SOC under load.  You can read about the method and technology on the Magnum site and in the installation manual.

The two “monitors” pictured  read the voltage and there is a chip that does the math.  If you take the Trojan Charts, which are in 10% increments, and use Excel, you can calculate to the whole percentage the “capacity” by the 3 digit voltage measurement.

NOW, having these meters as a “voltage” monitor has some value.  But in reality, and the way I think the Battery Monitoring Kits work, you really need to know the voltage AT THE BATTERY as well as understand the load. Magnum says that the accuracy of the remote meters are +/-10%.  That is due to both the accuracy of the meters and the line loss in the phone cable that sends the voltage to the remote meter.

In my “mini thesis” that I posted as well as in the Magnum tutorial I commented on this….which is what Magnum said that was really important.  NOW, if you measured the “real at the battery” voltage, under a constant draw down load…as many do….and compared to the Magnum and the other meters, like above, then you will know what “fudge or correlation factor” to use. 

What we don’t know…and Trojan says to do it this way. Is whether these Battery Monitoring (Shunt required) kits actually display the “real” State of Charge as Trojan defines it and puts in their charts.  The batteries have to be left with NO load, still hooked up….that means all parasitic loads like standby TV power is OFF….OR…you disconnect or pull the jumpers. I know from draining my Trojan’s and using my Magnum remote that it is safe for me to go down to 11.7, as Bob does… I actually tested and used the correct method so that with a constant drain, per the “formula” that 11.7 is safe for my PARTICULAR remote.

My conclusion is that the two meters will give you, at a glance, the voltage of each, but I would want to compare that to the actual VOM reading of each.  And, do NOT be alarmed if when you throw a heavy load…enough to use the 2000 watt capacity…which is a large portable heater, that the battery voltage will drop like a stone and you will see, briefly, readings below 11.4 or so and maybe ZERO percent….

Not knocking always having more data and instrumentation….but these are NOT shunt monitors, but simple volt meters with a calculation chip.  Therein lies the difference and one needs to know this….and such.  Bottom line, I don’t feel I need to know the level or condition of my house batteries to the extent of investing in the Battery Monitoring Kits….but many do and they serve a beneficial purpose….but only to those that understand the technology and “batteries” as well and are curious or want to monitor more precisely.

[Georgia Mike]

10 hours ago, Ivan K said:

For what it's worth, we boondock whenever possible and for that reason I don't run any high current appliances on inverter to preserve batteries. Generator runs twice a day for what it takes to brew coffee,  sometimes a little microwave time.  Maybe an hour a day. My AGS is at 11.8v also. For a quick look I have a cheap but capable shunt monitor and if I want to see charts, Victron solar controller gives me all I need. I would want a controller with that capability if I did not have one yet. For instance:

Ivan, what shunt are you using? I have been looking at the Victron ip65 but it’s a little pricey for my needs

[jacwjames]

19 hours ago, Rocketman3 said:

One device that helped me really understand the batteries is a Victron Smartshunt (or BMV712).  This is a shunt based battery monitor (costs abt $130).

It let’s me know what percentage my batteries are - I.e. 72%. This is really good for recharging lead batteries- cause then you know - if you need to recharge and when to stop the generator. 
 

Also, to help with your current question of why did the AGS start? It has a trend feature that records the data. So for example, I just ran my microwave off the inverter for lunch.  I can see my voltage before was 14.25v (my batteries were in the absorbing phase), then dropping to abt 13.35v while it was running- then climbed back up. You don’t need to be looking at it to see those numbers- it reports it in the graph- after the event is over. 
 

with the correct data you can then decide if the AGS  is set too high, or if it needs a delay added (if it’s possible with your unit).

It is easy to install - attach a cable to the most negative battery terminal- attach that cable to the battery side of the shunt and move all the other negative cables to the load side of the shunt. (That way all power into or out of the battery goes through the shunt). Attach a small power wire - and your done. 
 

Now if you already have another brand of shunt based battery monitor- maybe it can tell you what happened. 
 

Good Luck
 

 

I also installed the BMV712, I wanted to get a better handle on the state of charge for my batteries.  Although the Trace does display % battery voltage it never seemed to be consistent and left me wondering what the batteries were really charged to.   It does have Bluetooth capability which makes it really handy.  I store my coach at the house in a garage so whenever I walk by I pull up the display on my phone and confirm battery voltage of both the house and chassis batteries. 

Install was pretty easy, got some good advise from several other members. 

[Ivan K]

1 hour ago, Georgia Mike said:

Ivan, what shunt are you using? I have been looking at the Victron ip65 but it’s a little pricey for my needs

Mike, I use this one, it used to be ~$30 then. Shows me what I need in real time and had a good review on YouTube for the price.

[Donflem]

I had one of my granddaughters get me a picture of the box this is a picture of the settings from the original owner so in your guy’s opinion what do I need to change?

[96 EVO]

Don, does your remote panel have a AGS button at the bottom?

Right around our years, Magnum made the change to making your adjustments there, rather than the controller you pictured.

The remote panel overrides the settings on that controller. 

There's no point in getting to deep into adjusting that controller if you have AGS setup on your remote.

Edited June 25, 2023 by 96 EVO

[Tom Cherry]

1 hour ago, Donflem said:

I had one of my granddaughters get me a picture of the box this is a picture of the settings from the original owner so in your guy’s opinion what do I need to change?

Don.  I’m “pretty sure”, but not positive, that your remote controls the AGS.  Look on your Magnum.  There should be a three phone connections.. Battery Temp Sensor, Remote and Network.  Your AGS has 2 phone connectors.  One is the a network.  THAT hooks it up to the Inverter….sort of like connecting a router.  The cord from the AGS goes to the Inverter.  OK, now the Remote is “hooked up”.  The AGS in the picture is the older style, but forget all the cutesy and confusing knobs.  That would be for a STAND ALONE.  If you read the AGS Manual that came with your MH, it has pages and pages of “How to Make this Sucker WORK”.  

BUT….if you read the “simple” instructions…..Connect to network and read and program.  You need to do some more reading on setting it.

PURE MEMORY.  Push the AGS button.  First screen says ON or maybe DISABLED.  You rotate the knob to turn it on.  Next is setting it up.  It will work from a voltage drop.  You have to set that.  I have NO idea where yours is set….but you sure need to find out snd set it to 11.8/11.9.  No lower or higher.  I have beat that to death.  You can make it come on from the temperature.  Folks use that for pet protection.  The “sensor” phone line on the AGS runs all the way to behind your 5 button Thermostat.  Now….you can select Auxiliary…..I have uses that….very few do…but i had a need….you have to unplug the temp and plug in a special adapter.

OK…if temp, you set it.  Now…how long.  6 hours would be my recommendation.  That is  because you have 8 and not 4.  Maybe 5 hrs. 

NOW there is an option for “quiet time” where you have to set a clock and then pick the best match for the CG quiet times. GOT ALL THAT.

There is also aa TEST.  You KNOW it works….so get the voltage set properly.  There is a TEST.  These AGS had a moderate failure rate.  The NEW ones don’t have all the knobs….but are way less prone to fail.  I know….i have a new one.

Time for some caffeine and reading….

btw….you can call Magnum and they will walk you through it.  You need to say No Search watts and 11.8 for the AGS.  Then write it all down and learn how to scroll and check…

 

 

[Bill R]

Does anyone use a Battery Monitoring System that can work remotely via WiFi?   I would like to be able to monitor while coach is in storage miles from me.  Does it even exist?

[Georgia Mike]

6 hours ago, Ivan K said:

Mike, I use this one, it used to be ~$30 then. Shows me what I need in real time and had a good review on YouTube for the price.

Thanks…….that’s just what I’m looking for.

[Ivan K]

48 minutes ago, Bill R said:

Does anyone use a Battery Monitoring System that can work remotely via WiFi?   I would like to be able to monitor while coach is in storage miles from me.  Does it even exist?

Look for instance at RV whisper offering. Not cheap. I just use a wifi camera pointed at what I want to see in the winter.

https://rvwhisper.com/sensors/

[Rocketman3]

8 hours ago, Bill R said:

Does anyone use a Battery Monitoring System that can work remotely via WiFi?   I would like to be able to monitor while coach is in storage miles from me.  Does it even exist?

FYI- Victron can do it with 2 devices…

1. Battery Monitor- Smartshunt or BMV712.

2. GX device - such as Cerbo or Venus or CCGX

Then you set up on VRM. And you can see the status of all your Victron equipment and system. 
 

 

Here is my current snapshot - granted I am in my rig (11pm), but I can just as easy be anywhere- the only thing my rig needs is it’s internet connection(Starlink), or a connection to a WiFi. 
 

Now this is probably overkill if all you want to check on is the battery monitor- an internet camera might make more sense, but because I already had the equipment- there was no additional costs for me. (If it wasn’t 11pm I could see the solar watts that are being produced).

[Tom Cherry]

5 hours ago, Rocketman3 said:

FYI- Victron can do it with 2 devices…

1. Battery Monitor- Smartshunt or BMV712.

2. GX device - such as Cerbo or Venus or CCGX

Then you set up on VRM. And you can see the status of all your Victron equipment and system. 
 

 

Here is my current snapshot - granted I am in my rig (11pm), but I can just as easy be anywhere- the only thing my rig needs is it’s internet connection(Starlink), or a connection to a WiFi. 
 

Now this is probably overkill if all you want to check on is the battery monitor- an internet camera might make more sense, but because I already had the equipment- there was no additional costs for me. (If it wasn’t 11pm I could see the solar watts that are being produced).

That’s pretty neat.  Now, i WONDER?  LOL

If you are so inclined, do a screenshot under a controlled load (Trojan uses 10% - memory), so you need, 4 the typical 4 bank set, a 20 - 25 amp (260 - 300 AC watts) load.  Then turn off the house bank or pull jumpers and measure and then average the voltage of the bank and look it up on  the chart.  Then compare the “proper SOC” to what the monitor displayed.  Thanks in advance if you can find a few minutes to do this.