Running Ethernet Cables

[DBRV.0]

Just curious -

Has anyone installed ethernet cable between different points in the coach?  For example if I began at the electronics box over the passenger, how would one string wire down the driver or passenger sides, to a new ethernet port on a wall, or even to the rear TV cabinet?

- Jeff

p.s.  I know someone is bound to say "just Wifi", but that's not my preference.

[MyronTruex]

You need to have confidence in taking pillar post covers off if needed.

Finding where a bundle of wires exits the inside can get you on the way. 

Our RV is long. There are cable tubes in the middle of the framework but good luck getting wires through there. Forget about getting anything through the roof either.

So once you get the cable outside, you might be able to install some small pvc to run it under the vehicle. Not spit loom but actualy 1/2 inch pvc. Run an extra string through it for future use. You do not need to get the pvc to the precise area of course, just get it to where it is not exposed to the weather.  Bring the cat 5 into the areas you need it and install a network hub where you can get power to. You may be able to centralize a hub and move wires out from there. 

I actually have some surface mount conduit inside above our long kitchen slide. This avoids the sliding mechanism and allows me to install a cat 5 and an HDMI cable. 

Our entertainment center is above the driver area and our main tv is in the middle of the coach. The original tv did not have hdmi. Forget about using the old cables to pull new ones. Not going to happen.

Buy a decent set of crimpers and a cat 5 tester so you can make your own cables. If not possible just carefully circle up the excess out of the way.

I have a wi-fi router/hub and two other hubs. These hubs interface my direct tv, hd home run, and the ps4. Probaby other stuff I don't remember but have well documented.

Label your cables. Make lots of notes and take pictures. Keep them in a three ring binder so you can reference them. 

Buy good quality cables or cable if you choose to make your own. 

Yes my tv's have wi-fi as does the ps4 but the speed is much higer with cat 5 wiring. 

I have some very sophisticated tools for running cables but they are mostly ineffective in an RV. You just have to knuckle bust, head bust, and grind it out to get it done. 

[DavidL]

I don't have a Monaco, but a Newmar.

There always is a way...need to be creative in looking how your coach is built and how to access and route cable.  On mine, the HVAC ducting goes from front to back of the coach...I ran Plenum rated wires in there.

In most coaches, the easiest way is via the basement that is more often than not, open navigation front to back and side to side.

The trick is to get down the walls from upper cabinets to the basement.  The "A pillar" covers (sides of the windshield) is a common route.  You can also use the interior of some cabinets to drop down.  I have a pantry floor to ceiling cabinet near my bathroom.  There are access holes already, even removable shelves to access those holes.  And Newmar uses that cabinet for their own wires....so I just reused it as well.

Anyway, explore your coach for such victories.

Remember Push Sticks (fiberglass poles for routing wires), flexible drill bits (bit on a long shaft - be very careful with these to avoid other wires or going through plumbing, etc) can be used.  I always run a pull string with my wire for the future next wire to go via the same route.  Always easier the second time!

[RNMCBR]

Jeff,

I ran 2 ethernet cables from the A-pillar on the driver’s side to the rear cap where I then ran them into the TV slide-out on the opposite side. My coach, and probably yours has wire traces at the top of the side walls where the roof is curved over and attached to the side wall. This rounded over triangular cavity has wires running through it already. However, I had difficulty pushing a snake or fiberglass rod through it because they hung up on what seemed to be clamps or whatever is securing the wire bundles. So I used a Magnepull kit to drag the magnetic torpedo with a cord attached, along the top of the cavity using the included magnetic-roller handle. The torpedo was held tight against the thin fiberglass and followed the rolling magnet with little difficulty. Once I got the torpedo to the rear cap I used the attached cord to pull the ethernet cables through to the rear. This actually worked very well. 
I think you could do the same and there are several similar wire pulling devices available on Amazon. I got the magnepull because it looked like it would be the strongest and most versatile. 
good luck and let me know if my explanation is not clear.

Roy
 

[waterskier_1]

I've run Cat 6 ethernet and coaxial cables from the from the Entertainment cabinets (one above the dash & the other above the passenger sear) back to the rear bedroom TV cabinet.  On both cases I ran through the A/C ductwork.  I took out lights and speakers to facilitate getting the cables into & out of the ductwork.  In both cases I had to puncture the duct wall "cardboard" and then patch it with duct tape. 

I've ran a small coax cable down the drivers side A-pillar from a Sirius roof antenna to the dash.  That pillar is stuffed full of wires & cables; I could barely get the cover back on again (just Velcro).  I'll try the passenger side if I need to run cables again. 

  -Rick N 

[MyronTruex]

Roy mentions the magnapull device. It is a great tool but be careful, that monster roller magnet can smash your fingers if you get them between it and metal. That magnet is amazing.

The kit is fantastic for home owners or professionals. It is one of the few tools I carried into retirement. 

Don't be shy about drilling between cabinets to run cables out of sight along the back edges. Always take plenty of time inspecting and checking when drilling of course. 

I have spent around 200 hours running cables and reinventing the wheel on our 2008 Endeavor. Always some sort of upgrade or change, expecially with technology. 

My body has paid the price for straining myself over the years. 

[jacwjames]

I installed a 3/4" conduit between the chassis rails to run wire for fuel pressure gauge and other stuff.  I started from the front, there were holes already cut into the cross members where other wire and hosing/pipe were run.  My generator slides out which gave me room to work, guided the first 10' piece through the opening across the top of the fuel tank.  Was able to help it across.  Added a second piece as needed.  Had to drop the ceiling in my first basement compartment and had to help the conduit through that area, there are bundles of wire and pipe that are secured back through there.  I do not have a passenger side slide which made it easier.  Continued pushing the conduit back and hit another obstacle but this time I was able to go through the open ceiling in the small bay where my inverter is, felt around and found the end of the conduit and was able to pull it across that bay and then across the wet bay water tanks.  It day lighted with the rest of the wiring right in front of the rear axle. 

I was able to pull the first wire and then later pulled 5 more wires, needed one but now have 4 spares.

I just got done running a new WeBoost antenna wire from the front TV cabinet back to satellite dish, previous owner had installed a wire for a 3G antenna but the newer ones use a different wire.  For a small job it was a pain.  On the side of the AC duct work there was a void but already had wires/cable already in it, made it hard to get a snake through there.  I had to take out 2 ceiling lights to for access, previous owner had already done that and punched holes through the thin plywood.  This only provided a small hole to work through on the outside of the duct work.  Was able to get the new antenna wire pulled to the first ceiling light but then it was a struggle to get it the rest of the ~2.5' into the TV cabinet but finally got it done. ~8' distance took 4 hours.  

Going front to back through the AC duct work, if it is a straight shot front to back, would probably be the easiest but you have to first get a wire the front and rear ends of the duct work.  BUT I know that at the front end there is a 2X4 running side to side so a hole would have to be drilled through it with limited access.  But if you take the ceiling lights out and start from there it might be the easiest route through the duct work.  Then go through the AC return vent and cut a hole there to get extra access.  In the bedroom you'd have to get access to the duct work.  I know mine goes to the rear closet, not sure of your layout.  Once back there I'd an easy run to my rear TV location. 

They don't make anything easy on trying to work on these monsters. 

[RNMCBR]

I also ran other wires through the two pvc pipes running through the frame front to rear. But it was a bear to get a fiberglass fish rod through. I also left two strings  in place for future needs. I think it took me half a day and left me covered in grease, cut and bruised. I like pulling through the upper traces better. I also left two strings there for future needs. 
Roy

[DBRV.0]

10 hours ago, DavidL said:

There always is a way...need to be creative in looking how your coach is built and how to access and route cable.

That's my dilemma.  I don't have a lot of knowledge of "what is behind xx or yy".  However, I can be persistent.

 

9 hours ago, RNMCBR said:

wire traces at the top of the side walls where the roof is curved over and attached to the side wall.

I thought I had read that once upon a time.  But I don't yet know how to get into there, or how to get back down or out.

 

5 hours ago, MyronTruex said:

Always take plenty of time inspecting and checking

I normally do.  Thanks for the advice.  It sounds like you have some memorable experience with Magnapull.  My son learned how to do hidden wiring when he worked with the Geek Squad.  He has used that experience to venture into wiring things at his home.  I think he has some stuff that I need to borrow ...

15 minutes ago, RNMCBR said:

I also left two strings there for future needs. 

Wise suggestion.

--------------------------

I'm in the process of re-working my AV cabinet above the passenger seat.  First is to get rid of the 110V wiring mess and install a small UPS which will serve as surge and power protection as well as multiple outlets.  I will mount it high on the right side wall.  There is much better speaker technology (we have some wireless Sonos that sound great), so I'm not sure if the ceiling speakers+wires will be re-used.  There can also be better coax organization and/or access hole to the roof, as well as improved lighting wire routing inside the cabinet.  I note that the far right corner seems to be a defacto-cable run point - not sure where that leads.

- Jeff

 

[DavidL]

don't forget there are surface mount wire channels that can be wallpaper'ed or painted to match the walls.

Looking at that picture...is that a slideout to the right?  I see a wood trim that looks like it goes top to bottom...if it's not a movable wall, then possibly you can hide wires down that as a chase.

[RNMCBR]

Jeff, 

After taking off the a-pillar covers I was able to reach up and feel the entry point for the wire chase. I used a mirror and endoscope I got off Amazon to help see what I was doing. Of course it helped that I had previously had this area completely exposed so I could visualize it. 

At the rear I removed the breaker panel and cut a hole through the side panel into the area where the chase ends. There’s a wire bundle coming out at that point which helps locate the right place for the hole. Sorry I didn't take pictures of that. It’s a rats nest of wires in there and cramoed quarters but doable. I think I left some skin in there. 

I was then able to get the Magnepull torpedo close enough to that hole that I could grab it with another flexible magnetic wand. Once I had it the rest was easy, considering the help I got from my wife to feed the wires in the front as I pulled. 
 

From there I ran the wires under a removable panel at the bottom of the closet to where I could join the bundle going into the slide on the passenger side. I cut a small hole in the back if the tv cavity and fished the two cat5 wires to there.  I hope you can follow my explanation OK.

Roy

[jacwjames]

A lot of the wiring for lights, power, communication is in the ceiling due to the way the coach was constructed.  The chassis and side walls are put together first.  The roof/ceiling as a unit has all the wiring installed first with lengths of wire left exposed in the correct lengths.  The roof is then dropped onto the chassis/side walls and wires are put into appropriate locations and connected to the wiring that was installed in the walls.   Behind the refrigerator I had dozens of different wires, some coming up from the basement, some from the ceiling. 

It makes it difficult to try and run wires in the ceiling because of they way it is constructed an all the rest of the "Stuff" including penetrations for AC's ducts and Vents, Lights, speakers, and the roof trusses. 

The 120 volt wiring will probably go all the way back to the main service panel, they all have to get power from there. 

[DBRV.0]

2 hours ago, DavidL said:

I see a wood trim that looks like it goes top to bottom...

Yes, I hadn't noticed that.  Looks like it could be used as a wiring chase that runs from the bottom of the cabinet into the basement.  It doesn't go to the ceiling.  That round brown object on it is the zone 1 temp sensor.  The highlighted column is fixed - the right column piece is part of the slide.

- Jeff

[edit: I am WRONGO PONGO.  I didn't take time to investigate before I sent the photo.  That highlighted piece of wood is actually the valance.  It looked like it could be a chase from where I am sitting.]

Edited December 14, 2023 by DBRV.0

[waterskier_1]

If you look at the top of the cabinet, that black plastic vent is an A/C vent.  It is connected to the A/C duct that runs from the front to the rear bedroom. I used that as my "entry point" to the ductwork.  I took each ceiling vent off so I could pull/push the cable along the ductwork.  Then you have to be a bit more creative to get the cable out of the duct in the bedroom, and over to the TV area.  

  - Rick N 

[DavidL]

1 hour ago, DBRV.0 said:

Yes, I hadn't noticed that.  Looks like it could be used as a wiring chase that runs from the bottom of the cabinet into the basement.  It doesn't go to the ceiling.  That round brown object on it is the zone 1 temp sensor.  The highlighted column is fixed - the right column piece is part of the slide.

- Jeff

[edit: I am WRONGO PONGO.  I didn't take time to investigate before I sent the photo.  That highlighted piece of wood is actually the valance.  It looked like it could be a chase from where I am sitting.]

I used that exact valance to run many wires from the ceiling down to the basement.  Just slide the drape closed, use a impact screw gun to remove the screws that affix angle brackets from wall to valance.  There are likely some screws affixing to the top cabinet too.  remove the valance.  Drill holes from top cabinet down, that is hidden by the valance.  Do same on the floor.  Double check no wires / plumbing where you drill.  There, ya have a wire channel.  Put wire bundle in place, use tie wrap with a screw end, and screw that end to the interior of the valance to affix your cable bundle.

[waterskier_1]

6 hours ago, jacwjames said:

I installed a 3/4" conduit between the chassis rails to run wire for fuel pressure gauge and other stuff.  I started from the front, there were holes already cut into the cross members where other wire and hosing/pipe were run.  My generator slides out which gave me room to work, guided the first 10' piece through the opening across the top of the fuel tank.  Was able to help it across.  Added a second piece as needed.  Had to drop the ceiling in my first basement compartment and had to help the conduit through that area, there are bundles of wire and pipe that are secured back through there.  I do not have a passenger side slide which made it easier.  Continued pushing the conduit back and hit another obstacle but this time I was able to go through the open ceiling in the small bay where my inverter is, felt around and found the end of the conduit and was able to pull it across that bay and then across the wet bay water tanks.  It day lighted with the rest of the wiring right in front of the rear axle. 

I was able to pull the first wire and then later pulled 5 more wires, needed one but now have 4 spares.

I just got done running a new WeBoost antenna wire from the front TV cabinet back to satellite dish, previous owner had installed a wire for a 3G antenna but the newer ones use a different wire.  For a small job it was a pain.  On the side of the AC duct work there was a void but already had wires/cable already in it, made it hard to get a snake through there.  I had to take out 2 ceiling lights to for access, previous owner had already done that and punched holes through the thin plywood.  This only provided a small hole to work through on the outside of the duct work.  Was able to get the new antenna wire pulled to the first ceiling light but then it was a struggle to get it the rest of the ~2.5' into the TV cabinet but finally got it done. ~8' distance took 4 hours.  

Going front to back through the AC duct work, if it is a straight shot front to back, would probably be the easiest but you have to first get a wire the front and rear ends of the duct work.  BUT I know that at the front end there is a 2X4 running side to side so a hole would have to be drilled through it with limited access.  But if you take the ceiling lights out and start from there it might be the easiest route through the duct work.  Then go through the AC return vent and cut a hole there to get extra access.  In the bedroom you'd have to get access to the duct work.  I know mine goes to the rear closet, not sure of your layout.  Once back there I'd an easy run to my rear TV location. 

They don't make anything easy on trying to work on these monsters. 

I've done the same on some coaches, but the difficulty for me is how to properly route it over the drive shaft, the tag axle, and through the engine compartment.  I haven't found a nice way to do that.  

  -Rick N.

[jacwjames]

2 hours ago, waterskier_1 said:

I've done the same on some coaches, but the difficulty for me is how to properly route it over the drive shaft, the tag axle, and through the engine compartment.  I haven't found a nice way to do that.  

  -Rick N.

Agree with that, a lot of stuff to work around.  In my case the wiring I ran was not critical.  I ran it through some of the flexible black loom protector and zip tied it up high. 

If it was critical I'd probably use the flexible conduit, zip tie it up high along the chassis rail above the axles/driveshaft and hope for the best.  There are several large bundles of wiring run above the axles already so if something happens the wires that I ran are pretty minor compared to the others. 

I did have to run a communication cable for the Victron 712 battery monitor I installed.  For that I ran it out of the rear passenger side electrical bay up through the floor in into the bottom bedroom cabinet.  I had to use a short flexible flexible conduit and mounted a Jbox underneath to try and protect everything.  When I was done I sprayed flex seal over all the JBox hope to prevent water intrusion.  Then I used the existing route along the the floor of the vanity and into the toilet room using the existing "tunnel", I had previously installed a pull string to behind the refrigerator and then up into the false bottom of the overhead cabinet in the LR all the way to the upper cabinet the inverter display is mounted, which is where I put the Victron display.  This was an all day (s) job since I had to remove all the false bottoms in the over head cabinets.  What was worse was that Victron provided a cable that I "thought would be long enough" when I routed it I came up 3' short so I had to buy a new cable and installed the correct ends.  Live and Learn!!

Monaco installed the wiring during construction so they didn't have may obstacles.  But it makes it much harder for us average joe's!!!

[Ivan K]

I know this is not helpful for ethernet connections but I have finally found the spare wire bundle from front dash all the way to the rear 'bumper' 😃 Bundle of 4x 10ga, 4x 12ga and a shielded pair. I somewhat suspected it would be somewhere and finally tracked it down when I wanted to pull an indicator wire for toad brakes.

[RNMCBR]

I should also mention that Harry Martin (Azhappycars) told me about the wire race along the top of the sidewalls. He fished wires down the passenger side in his 2008 Camelot. 

[6Wheels]

If you ever run Ethernet cable under the chassis or exposed to weather conduit is not necessary.  You can zip tie this cable as you go.

I use direct bury rated burial cable as it has a sheath that is weather and UV resistant.

If you are running power over Ethernet, use 23 gauge.  https://www.amazon.com/Cables-Direct-Online-Ethernet-Network/dp/B0B39FTLTV/ref=sr_1_3?crid=B3007H23KUE0&keywords=direct+burial+cable+cat6+23+gauge&qid=1702649974&sprefix=direct+burial+cable+cat6+23+gauge%2Caps%2C81&sr=8-3&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.17d9e15d-4e43-4581-b373-0e5c1a776d5d

Licensed & Insured Low-Voltage Contractor GA

6OUT234RX.pdf

Edited December 15, 2023 by 6Wheels

[DBRV.0]

1 hour ago, 6Wheels said:

I use direct bury rated burial cable

I understand the durability of direct burial, but haven't yet determined if plenum would be appropriate if I end up utilizing the HVAC ducts.

14 hours ago, RNMCBR said:

Harry Martin (Azhappycars) told me about the wire race along the top of the sidewalls

Any details available?

--------------------------

Does anyone have information on the crown molding? Is there an air gap behind it?  For example, in my sticks-n-bricks home, I had crown molding that was a piece of trim at a 45 degree angle, which left a triangle-shaped void behind the wood.

- Jeff

 

[Ivan K]

Very likely there is space for a cable, I would use a little hook to slip past it where it meets the ceiling t-trim and feel how far before I could turn it, to get an idea of its size.

[granvillebarker]

I have run a lot of cables around my coach, ethernet and others.   I ran two ethernet from front to back through the AC chase that goes from front to back.   My dynasty has one of those "do not use" cabinets over the bedroom TV, I have the wifi router and home assistant computer inside it.   Since it backs up to the bathroom, I have one ethernet that goes down behind the tv, through the bathroom into the basement.

 

I think all roadster chassis's have an extra pipe running front to back along one of the frame rails for your extra wires.   I used it on my 2002 Windsor, and on my 2005 Dynasty.   That's your best route if you want to go front to back via outside.  

[RNMCBR]

Jeff,

Harry might chime in but he told me he was able to send a fish tape from one end of his coach to the other down the cavity at the top of the wall where the roof bends over. I don’t remember which end he started from. On my coach  it was easier to access an exit point on the rear drivers side because I could pull the breaker panel out and see where the wire bundle exited. I couldn’t figure out how to get to the exit of the cavity on the passenger side without cutting a hole in the rear cabinet wall, which I didn’t want to do. 
i’m not sure what kind of fish tape he used. I tried a sectional fiberglass rod but it always hung up on something. 
Roy

[DavidL]

On 12/15/2023 at 11:05 AM, DBRV.0 said:

I understand the durability of direct burial, but haven't yet determined if plenum would be appropriate if I end up utilizing the HVAC ducts.

Any details available?

--------------------------

Does anyone have information on the crown molding? Is there an air gap behind it?  For example, in my sticks-n-bricks home, I had crown molding that was a piece of trim at a 45 degree angle, which left a triangle-shaped void behind the wood.

- Jeff

 

Yes, there is typically a decent space to run CAT cable behind crown molding.  You just need to figure out how to route to get behind it.  For example, a hole to the left of that speaker in that cabinet.  I would use a pry bar to pull the crown off, make your holes, run the cable, staple the cable up to the corner, then reapply the crown using an air finish nailer.

Edited January 22 by DavidL