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Our HWH control panel quit working. The ground wire on the back of the panel had pulled lose.

Bob, Some good advice above. You can try the HWH air leveling reset switch. It should be on the drivers left side console all the way back. You can also tap AIR once on the HWH control panel then press the up arrow on the right side to see if that will raise it. In the end you're going to need to make some ramps out of 2"x10" lumber stacked about three high. Then drive the coach up onto them. This should give you enough clearance to get underneath. The ride height valves are pretty simple and occasionally the small linkage to them becomes disconnected. You should have two ride height valves on the rear and one on the front. Good luck!

There are several shops performing good RV paint work. Precision Painting is performing great work and is even successful at covering crazing. Precision Painting Inc Bremen, IN Address: 730 High Rd, Bremen, IN 46506 Phone: (574) 546-4473

Are you using propylene glycol boiler fluid mixed with distilled water? I agree with Richard. You can use an ohm meter to test each thermostat. The thermostat should open when the boiler reaches the required temperature. There are four thermostats in the system behind a small access panel in the firewall. The cover is held on with two screws. I think I would replace all four thermostats. After two fail, the others are not far behind. Until your new parts get here you can still use the diesel system. Just run it for 15-20 min and then turn it off. You can do the same with the electrical side, but let it run for an hour and then turn it off. Chemworld has the best price on boiler fluid. https://www.chemworld.com/Boiler-Antifreeze-s/1994.htm

Does anyone know where to get the U shaped wire retainers for the large Dayton relays? One of our wire retainers is missing.

That's a great idea. I had a similar thought. When I was back in Tucson over the weekend and I put together a wire connector for the +12v wire that goes to the relay block.

Check the oil level on both the generator and main engine first. Then start the generator. After 2 min turn on one of the A/C units to load it. Run it for 30 min. Then shut it down and crank the engine. After the oil pressure comes up put it into fast idle and bring the temperature up to 180 or so. Turn on the dash A/C, cycle the trans into D and R then back to neutral. Press the brake pedal a couple of times. If all tire pressures are good, drive it to see if the tires have developed flat spots. Good luck!

You probably need to clean the ends of the RJ11 telephone cords, especially under each A/C. Open the vent under each A/C on the inside of the coach. You'll find a phone cord junction. Remove the phone cords and clean the ends with Deoxit. It wouldn't hurt to clean the RJ11 phone cord ends where they plug into the back of the thermostat. After that's complete, turn the thermostat off using the black slide switch on the underside. Then hold down both top and bottom buttons simultaneously while turning the thermostat on. You will see FF in the display. Then everything should operate normally. Good luck!

The trend now is going to lithium batteries. They are expensive and do not like cold or hot temperatures. I considered building my own lithium packs but stayed with the tried-and-true Trojan T-105 6-volt golf cart batteries. Our local golf shop has them for $129 each. I have to periodically monitor the water level but the last set I had lasted almost 10 years.

Okay. Thanks. When the flame sensor is bad you only get 1 or 2 sparks. I'm not sure what caused no fuel pressure initially and then started working. I'm also not sure why the clutch suddenly broke. I guess just bad timing. The diesel burner was due for a rebuild.

Below is a picture of my fuel pressure gauge fitted into an old nozzle as well as a Schrader valve attached to a 5/8" heater hose. Zone bleeding procedure: I turned off both boiler fluid ball valves (the upper goes out to the house heat exchangers and the lower is a return back to the tank). Then attach the heater hose/Schrader valve adapter to the boiler tank overflow and pressurize it with 15psi from an air compressor. I then went inside and set the thermostat to Furnace-Zone 3 and turned the temp up to 85. Then open the upper ball valve allowing fluid out of the boiler into the house heat exchangers. Next open the drain valve at the bottom of the Aqua Hot. You can hear the loud air pockets as they blow out the drain valve. I did this twice for each zone. I may have to do Zone 1 again as it goes through the kitchen and living room all the way to the front of the coach. The caution here is not to let the boiler tank fluid level drop too low or it will blow air out into the heat exchangers. I had to refill the tank after each zone. Also, you do not necessarily need the boiler up to temperature. The bolt in the picture is used to plug the overflow hose from the overflow tank. Also attached is a picture of the new overflow tank. It's mounted to the wall in the basement compartment just in front of the Aqua Hot. The hose from the overflow tank goes up through the plywood ceiling cover and back to the Aqua Hot (picture is sideways).

I replaced the round metal "photo disc" on the front of the diesel burner and reinstalled it. Now the diesel burner will not run. It's very quiet. I removed it again and tested fuel pressure. It's not getting any fuel or blowing air. But, the spark works continuously. Initially i thought it was something I had done wrong. I spent some time troubleshooting and could not find any misplaced wires. This time after removal I could hear pieces rattle when I turn it over. I'm pretty sure the clutch is broken. I thought about this overnight and decided to send the diesel burner in for rebuild.

Many of your systems (interior lights and Aqua Hot burner) run on 12v. The inverter is required to recharge the batteries. I leave our inverter on 24/7.

I'd say no. If it's running well with no codes I'd leave it alone, especially with a good working Banks kit. Any updates would be for emissions.

This last time I used Valvoline Dex/Merc synthetic ATF because it was less expensive than non-synthetic. $17.98 per gallon at Walmart. Hydraulic systems are pretty forgiving on the type of oil as long as it's clean and you don't heavily stress the system until warm. https://www.amazon.com/Blinker-Fluid-HAND-VERSION-Hilarious-Gift-Stocking-Stuffer-Car/dp/B06ZXSKDZG/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1LUQMV2RWTVMS&keywords=blinker+fluid&qid=1680056806&sprefix=Blinker%2Caps%2C170&sr=8-1

Gary, did you force boiler fluid through the zones one at a time, or all three together?

It operates your engine cooling fans. On ours the small braided steel lube hose developed a leak and I changed it.

I would spray the threads with PB Blaster right now (and make sure you spray the four axle bolts plus the threads on the top of the air bag also). Then spray everything again. And spray again the night before you are removing the air bags. Try to get the box end wrench on the nut. If it won't fit, loosen the four bolts holding the axle for more clearance. If you needed to do this more than once, then I'd make the special tool, but this is a one-time change and the new air bags should be good for another 20 years.

We have quite a few racers towing stacker trailers with Monaco Executives and Signatures as well as Holiday Rambler Navigators.

I've replaced a couple of the factory rope lights with newer LED light strings. I found the LED light strings on Amazon. Less expensive and more reliable than the originals.

Discovery 17, I saw some of the My RV Works videos. He's a great teacher with lots of patience. Gary, I was thinking I had a bad fuel solenoid also, but it's working okay for now. Ben, good idea about the seal. It would have to be heat resistant. I'm now thinking the smoking is caused because the photo disc is warped. The round metal plate the flame sensor mounts to is called the photo disc. The photo disc should provide the seal against the combustion chamber, not the pump assembly. I'm learning, some of it the hard way.

Paul and I purchased rebuild kits from here: Gary Manchester 7315 W. Wilson Ave. Harwood Heights, Ill. 60706 ph: 708-887-6320 Fax: 708-887-5009 manchester@qccorp.com He can also sell you a new pump or rebuild yours. Removing that pump was a tough. The large hydraulic hose B-nuts were extremely hard to loosen. http://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/sauer-danfoss-hydraulic-pump-rebuild-455664.html#post4895665

I removed my steel hose adapter and took it to the power coat shop. They sand blasted it and powder coated it black. Came out looking better than new.

I made some progress! I replaced the flame sensor and the diesel burner ignited. I cheered loudly! However, it was smoking badly so I shut it down and checked everything. I removed the diesel pump and one of the rubber grommets was out of place. I put it back into the notch and reinstalled the diesel pump. I started it again and the smoke is better, but still not as good as it used to be. I may need to remove the pump again and see why it’s not seating all the way. The diesel pump just doesn't fit this boiler opening as snug as it fit the original. I think the flame sensor sitting in sunlight for a few days while I overhauled the unit caused it to fail (it may have been on it last legs anyway). It read 60 ohms light or dark. The specs are 300 ohms or less when exposed to light, and 300,000 ohms or more when dark. The flame sensor is one of the easy parts to replace. Just 1 Phillips screw holds it to the burner plate. My zone 2 and 3 pumps come on so I think the wiring is good. However, they have lost their prime. These older pumps are situated at the top of the unit and require priming by applying air pressure to the boiler. I am making up a short heater hose to attach to the boiler fill port (this boiler doesn’t have a radiator cap) with a Schrader valve so I can pressurize the tank. I'll order the Schrader valve and hose adapter. I think I'm getting closer if I can figure out the smoking issue.

I've just overhauled our Aqua Hot and learned a lot about the system. I'm not sure how your diesel burned can come on without being selected inside the coach. The diesel burner system runs on 12V DC and the electric heating element runs on 120V AC. I assume with a 2008 model you have the Intellitec multiplex system. It is applying power to the relays to turn on/off the systems you select. I would watch your Aqua Hot system closely to see if there are any more anomalies.