rvingstuff Posted May 22, 2021 Share Posted May 22, 2021 One of the circuit's in our 2006 Sig is continually clicking OFF! I've changed the 20AMP breaker several times with no noticeable positive results. Neither the circuit breaker nor the area around this breaker is ever warm to the touch. The only things I've got on this 20AMP circuit is all very low voltage: 1. Laptop 2. WIFI 3. Inside/outside tem gauge 4. Cell phone While we've several RV repair mobile services and larger facilities in our area (Southern California - Temecula), I'm seeking referrals from those of you who know from personal experience of someone who specializes in the electrical components like what I need help with. But I'd much rather hear from those of you who have specifically used your suggested referral person/business and had positive results rather than "I Heard That...". Yes I know there are many RV Repair places. I want a PERSONAL reference from YOUR PERSONAL and POSITIVE results. Thanks in advance for any help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vito.a Posted May 22, 2021 Share Posted May 22, 2021 (edited) That's a GFCI breaker. It's not an overload tripping it. You have a neutral touching ground somewhere. GFCI protection is required for 125-volt receptacles supplied by single-phase branch circuits rated 150 volts or less to the ground. GFCI receptacles are required in bathrooms, garages, crawl spaces, basements, laundry rooms and areas where a water source is present. More: Understanding the difference between GFCI breakers and GFCI receptacles | HomElectrical.com Edited May 22, 2021 by vito.a 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rvingstuff Posted May 22, 2021 Author Share Posted May 22, 2021 (edited) vito.a Yup!! It is becoming apparent that this is a "ground fault." It was installed by a very competent electrician - one I know personally. But he's no longer available to me. It does have a pigtail and was installed correctly. So now the work begins attempting to find this ground fault. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. If this has been replaced several times, it would seem that the "fault" would be somewhere else in my coach. And NOT in that breaker. Would you agree? Edited May 22, 2021 by rvingstuff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrDon4u Posted May 22, 2021 Share Posted May 22, 2021 39 minutes ago, rvingstuff said: One of the circuit's in our 2006 Sig is continually clicking OFF! I've changed the 20AMP breaker several times with no noticeable positive results. Neither the circuit breaker nor the area around this breaker is ever warm to the touch. The only things I've got on this 20AMP circuit is all very low voltage: 1. Laptop 2. WIFI 3. Inside/outside tem gauge 4. Cell phone While we've several RV repair mobile services and larger facilities in our area (Southern California - Temecula), I'm seeking referrals from those of you who know from personal experience of someone who specializes in the electrical components like what I need help with. But I'd much rather hear from those of you who have specifically used your suggested referral person/business and had positive results rather than "I Heard That...". Yes I know there are many RV Repair places. I want a PERSONAL reference from YOUR PERSONAL and POSITIVE results. Thanks in advance for any help. If you have another ckt breaker just like it in the panel I would swap it with that one and see if how the new breaker does the same thing. That would be the easiest thing to do right now. That would tell you if its the breaker or something on that ckt. It maybe the breaker has good bad. They are 15 years old. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr4Film Posted May 22, 2021 Share Posted May 22, 2021 You need to identify ALL of the outlets that this GFCI circuit is hooked to first. The list that you gave is pretty slim all which would not require a GFCI. I am guessing that the GFCI is supplying power to some other place that is causing the GFCI to trip, not the devices that you had listed. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waterskier_1 Posted May 22, 2021 Share Posted May 22, 2021 (edited) Along with what Richard said above, temporarily disconnect our move to another circuit every item you have plugged into the outlets identified as being on the faulty circuit. With all items removed, the breaker should no longer trip. Once confirmed that there is no longer anything causing the breaker to trip, one at a time plug in a disconnected item and see which one causes the breaker to trip. I fob my 23" All-In-One computer caused mine to trip. Edited May 22, 2021 by waterskier_1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
throgmartin Posted May 22, 2021 Share Posted May 22, 2021 For future reference and in regards to needing a competent tech for your Sig you have 2 choices on the west coast. Elite Repair & Renovation in Harrisburg, Oregon or Executive Motorcoach in Vegas. Both of these places are owned by former Monaco techs from the Coeburg facility. They know Monaco coaches backwards and forwards and are very good techs. The 2006 Sig and up coaches have very complicated electrical systems that far surpass most other Monaco model coaches. The vast majority of techs out there have no clue where to even start troubleshooting a Sig, Executive or Dynasty. When this happens you end up paying the tech while he learns and you pray to God he doesn't impact other electrical systems along the way. I wouldn't let any Tech near a Mux system unless he knew it inside and out. In your case this could simply be a bad breaker. I installed a new GFCI breaker and found it was bad right out of the box. I have also installed several common breakers in the past that failed within a few short months. I would first verify the breaker is not at fault. If it is good then the chase is on. Start with the simplest and work towards the hardest locations looking for a fault. It is like wanting to do open heart surgery for an ingrown toe nail. A lot of times these issues are just stupid simple little things that do not require ripping your coach apart to troubleshoot an issue. Always start with the dumbest simplest thing and then work forward. Best of luck. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k7jv Posted May 23, 2021 Share Posted May 23, 2021 Good morning, "Single with Bear". I am attaching two documents. One is the 120 VAC schematic that is specifically applicable to the 2006 Signature. The other is a photo of the breaker panel front that is in our coach which is also covered by that same drawing. Two observations: First, on our coach, breaker #1 is vacant and on yours breaker #8 is vacant. But I would expect the loads to be the same, overall, just moved to different positions. Curious why they did that, since the drawing is applicable to the '06 Sig's, too. Second, your breaker #7 is a 20-amp breaker. There are two wiring configurations on the drawing for the breaker that I believe to be doing the same job as your #7, one for a 15-amp breaker and one for a 20-amp breaker. It would be useful if you were to check out what outlets are powered and which are not, so you will know the option on that drawing that specifically matches the way your coach is wired. One question I do still have is how that breaker trips. Does it not hold at all? Or does it trip instantly upon reset, after a few seconds, a few minutes, a few hours, a few days? ONCE YOU ARE SURE WHAT ALL IS POWERED BY THIS BREAKER, I would unplug everything that is on it. Then reset it and see if the problem remains with all loads removed. If the breaker holds with all of the possible loads removed, the problem is in the wiring of the coach, somewhere. I say that, because you said you have replaced the breaker, at least once. It is highly unlikely you would have put in multiple bad breakers. If the breaker holds with all of the possible loads removed, I would then plug my devices in, one at a time. That way you may be able to identify a device you are using that has a problem. Let us know what you find. Schematic - 110V Wiring Diagram.pdf.pdf AC Panel - Inverter Supplied.JPG.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BennieH Posted May 23, 2021 Share Posted May 23, 2021 First you need to identify ALL of the outlets that this GFCI circuit is connected to. Once you've found ALL the outlets, unplug everything connected to them and see if it trips. Plug things back in 1 at a time, wait and watch for trips. Add the next item and repeat. Based on the fact that it has been replaced several times, something that is plugged into the circuit is causing the trips. 19 hours ago, rvingstuff said: vito.a Yup!! It is becoming apparent that this is a "ground fault." It was installed by a very competent electrician - one I know personally. But he's no longer available to me. It does have a pigtail and was installed correctly. So now the work begins attempting to find this ground fault. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. If this has been replaced several times, it would seem that the "fault" would be somewhere else in my coach. And NOT in that breaker. Would you agree? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moonwink Posted May 23, 2021 Share Posted May 23, 2021 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr4Film Posted May 23, 2021 Share Posted May 23, 2021 (edited) 47 minutes ago, Moonwink said: I hope that isn't what happened to him! We haven't heard back as to the outcome of our requests for more information or maybe in fact he HAS decided to leave it to a professional experienced electrician. Hopefully we will know the outcome soon. But if not possibly we should call for a "welfare check". 😇 Edited May 23, 2021 by Dr4Film Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ivylog Posted May 23, 2021 Share Posted May 23, 2021 Welcome to the new and improved world of GFIs. Based on the diagram provided above and your picture, #7 (Bath, Rear GFI) is for the rear outlets (10+ outlets) in your rig. I assume it trips without anything plugged into these outlets so it’s a process of elimination. I would start by disconnecting the white/black wires on an easy to access outlet in the toilet area. This will divide the outlets in half...does the GFI still trip? If so your problem is before this outlet. If it still trips, disconnect the P/S night stand outlet...if it still trips (worse case situation) I would replace the #7 GFI breaker with a regular 20A and put a GFI outlet in the P/S night stand outlet... it will protect the downstream outlets. Good Luck, you do not need an electrician having already changed the GFI breaker several times. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dl_racing427 Posted May 23, 2021 Share Posted May 23, 2021 1 hour ago, Moonwink said: Working in nuclear power, I've been through electrical safety training several times. I've heard some heartbreaking stories, and seen extremely graphic pics, of what a high current arc flash can do. Fortunately, the current capacity on residential branch circuits isn't nearly as dangerous, but electrocution is still a very real risk. Please be careful guys. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ivylog Posted May 23, 2021 Share Posted May 23, 2021 (edited) Since the OP successfully changed out the breaker several times (yes, not knowing a GFI function raised some questions) but I think he’s still with us so he knows to turn the breaker off... OH wait, it won’t stay on so it’s off on it’s own. WARNING...OP, once the breaker doesn’t trip, BE SURE to turn it OFF, before hooking the outlet back up and going to another outlet downstream. Edited May 23, 2021 by Ivylog Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
birdshill123 Posted May 24, 2021 Share Posted May 24, 2021 I had a similar problem in our Dynasty. Was caused by the flexible kitchen sink hose leaking right into a junction box. But water getting into a different junction box would cause the breaker to pop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobdinsmore Posted May 24, 2021 Share Posted May 24, 2021 Not all brands od GFI's are compatible with all inverters. Suggest you check the inverter owners manual to make sure you're using an approved maker and model number. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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