Norcold refrigerator

[timaz996]

I have the JC 120 unit and I love it. I do have a friend that is complaining about their door seals.

"Many ingenious members have stuffed tubing and rope and such to “restore” the seals so they do not leak"

So do you pull the door seal and put tubing in it???

Tim

[Guest KenAVTech]

What model Norcold are we talking about?

[Dr4Film]

38 minutes ago, KenAVTech said:

What model Norcold are we talking about?

 Norcold Model 12XX

[brokenarrow1244]

1200lrimss I have a 2006 Monaco Camelot. My 1st recall parts were installed 2011. those failed in a few months and were then replaced with newer parts.

[Wrayj1]

We had the Norcold 1200, series in a 2010 Carriage Cameo fifth wheel, that had the overheating issue. Norcold hard the dealer replace that sensor in 2010, then the entire cooling unit failed in 2013.  We were in Casa Grande, Az, had a great tech look at it.  He said our extended warranty company would only pay for a rebuilt, but he would not install it unless the insurance company would accept future liability for potential fires.  The insurance company then approved a new cooling unit.  In 2014 we received a letter from a law firm saying we were part of a class action suit against Norcold and that we would be receiving a check for five years as agreed to by Norcold.  We got a check for approximately$300 every July for five years.  I am not privy to all the events leading up to the lawsuit, but I have read that there were several fires some of which totalled the RV. 

[Guest KenAVTech]

So you say had! are we talking about the 1200 model in this thread?

[Dr4Film]

YES! It includes ALL of the 12XX series.

[Wrayj1]

We no longer have the fifth wheel, sold it in 2017, bought our 2007 Holiday Rambler Endeavor. Rambler has the Domestic ND1200 fridge, no serious issues with it, only replaced the cooling fans in 2018 and added the chase to vent it as the factory did not install it correctly.

[Tom Cherry]

3 hours ago, jacwjames said:

To elaborate on my issues with the Norcold.

It really never did keep the refrigerator temps cool enough all the time.  I did add a helper fan to try an push more air across the back of the fridge but I didn't see any real change.  Also played with the thyrister on the fins in the fridge but didn't seem to make a big difference.   I started using two remote temp monitors so I could keep an eye on it.  When the refrigerator temps started to creep up I would move freezer blocks to the fridge to keep temps in the safe range.  But I also know that over the years we threw out $$$ worth of food.    With all of this in the back of my mind I knew that when the time came I'd replace with a residential fridge.  I started to collect information on the change from both the Monacoers and IRV2 website, specifically installs with a furnace underneath.  So when I saw a new Samsung RF18 on clearance at Lowes for $855 it was a no brainer, I used it for a year while I was building our house and then stored it in the basement until I could find time to install in my Windsor.

So I did do the install as mentioned in a previous post but to remove the Norcold we took the cooling unit off the back.  I found that there was a pretty wide air gap between the cooling unit and the heat sink/transfer plate for the fridge due to the amount of adhesive they used.  This was probably the problem with cooling issue, not a good heat transfer from the cooling unit to the fridge. 

I was able to take a couple long trips last year and found that while boon docking my generator use did not change that much depending on electrical use and sunlight since I have 325 watt of solar.   And since I traveled in the summer I was having to run the generator for AC sometimes anyway.  But the proof is in the pudding in that when I was in ND in July of last year outside temps were +100F but the Samsung preformed flawlessly.   Parked in the open, no shade, couldn't have awing out due to high winds, and the sun beating down on that side of the coach the fridge kept temps cold and dropped a tray of ice about every 1.5 hours🙂

For me converting to a residential made sense

I followed a similar route on my newer Dometic 1402, which was the expensive Monaco upgrade from the Norcold.  I sealed all the air leaks in the drainage lines as the corrugated tubing started to crack.  I added a Fantastic vent fan….tore apart the floor fan that uses the same motor and blades as the roof fans.  Added that and a custom housing to the top to improve the exhaust as that was the issue.  I talked to the Dometic engineer and he said that if they had used larger fans or a lower temperature thyristor (snap disk on the fins), the battery drain would have been an issue and the refrigerator wouldn’t meet the “consumer’s requirements for boondocking”.  I used a Norcold snap disk which came on 15 dF quicker.  It took forever to cool down and when you went shopping and put some frozen food or some room temperature bottles of water in it, soften the ice cream and took forever to get to the set points,  I ran the diagnostics on the control board and such,

Just got tired of messing with it.  I put in the Samsung and had read 8 years of posts on the do and don’t do.  I removed all the interior insulation in the refer cavity and made sure that I had cold circulation around all sides.  The tech actually cut the “shelf” that the Dometic sat on, about 6” from the wall, so there was a positive stop for the Samsung.  Unfortunately that inhibited the circulation with the compressor and fans, so I used a 4” hole saw and added 5 or so openings,

After the initial 3 days of “too cold outside” shutoff’s and the Samsung tech confirming the issue was the open vent, I Insulated the louvered access panels and the side louvers on the frame.  Nary an issue from them.  We drove 8500 miles in 2018.  Temps in Hot Springs, AR in July hit 104.  The 2 AC’s struggled, but the .Samsung was fine.  We had three different sets of guests….and the GK’s were always in and out of it.  Icemaker kept up….not an issue,  HAPPY CAMPER.  The only thing we do, other than run it on the E setting and turn off the icemaker when boon docking is that we just harvest ice from the home freezer and fill the basket and carry a bag full of cubes….if we are going to be out for 10 days or so.

We boon docked in Sequoia and they had a funky “run Genny schedule”.  I installed a 12 VDC timer and hooked up the “timer” contacts to the Magnum AGS.  Ran it when we left and the timer brought it on around 2:00 to coincide with there crazy hours,  we never had a battery issue and we only have 4 house,  as long as you run the Genny 2 - 3 hours per day, it works fine….of course we have LED lighting which cuts down BIG TIME on current draw.

[timaz996]

I have the JC 120 unit and I love it. I do have a friend that is complaining about their door seals.

"Many ingenious members have stuffed tubing and rope and such to “restore” the seals so they do not leak"

So do you pull the door seal and put tubing in it???

[Tom Cherry]

1 hour ago, Tim-AZ said:

I have the JC 120 unit and I love it. I do have a friend that is complaining about their door seals.

"Many ingenious members have stuffed tubing and rope and such to “restore” the seals so they do not leak"

So do you pull the door seal and put tubing in it???

Tim

The door seal issue is on the Norcold 12XX.  My 2005 model had a leak alarm.  It would periodically test the seals by, probably, revving us the fans….when closed.  If the sensor triggered, or went into an alarm condition, it would chime or make a noise.  Even driving with a gallon of milk in the door would impact it.  DW would load the doors very lightly…and it still did it.  A knowledgeable tech did the dollar bill seal test and said…seals.  Then he looked up the part and said DOORS.  Extended warranty would have covered it, but we traded for the Camelot.

What our members have done was to purchase thick wall Tygon or the heavy clear plastic tubing that Lowes sells,  Cannot recall the diameter, but they were able to put the tubing inside the seals, so that the seals were closer to the factory thickness or height.  I don’t think that they curved the corners, but miter cut the. At 45 deg.  That pouched out or expanded the gaskets so that when the doors were latched, the surface of the seals made more positive contact.  Some folks experimented with thin, super thin self adhesive foam gaskets,  You can buy really open cell foam weather stripping gaskets at lowes for door and windows…in different widths and thicknesses.  I think they found thin ones or cut them.  Some where in my mind, they also tried closed cell foam or rubber insulation tape (HVAC?).  Problem was that the gaskets would compress…and marginal sealing.  Thus, increasing the height by having a flexible tubing inside forced the original seal to make more contact….

[timaz996]

Thank you Tom

[WayneC]

On 7/15/2022 at 12:29 PM, Tom Cherry said:

Richard nailed it. I had a Norcold in a Winnebago. I traded the MH and knew that my extended warranty would have had to take a big hit. This was for the DOOR gaskets. They are non replaceable and a new set of doors is more than the cost of a Samsung Res Refer...the 17 CF model that 90+% of folks use. The safety issue, though, is the main concern. Some folks have installed new compressor replacements and others have bought the Amish units.  Mixed reviews...so just think that it may NOT be the most cost effective solution to keep the old box, with the doors, and put big bucks into the Amish installation....UNLESS you do it yourself. It is VERY labor intensive and there have been more than a few cases where the installer botched it and it had to be redone to make it efficient as air leaks are a problem.  Only qualified, experienced folks or very meticulous owners have had success. We have had many that abandoned the Amish and the Norcold a year or two afterwards.

There is a thread going on VENTING....if you decide to take the plunge, read it.  It deals with what to do to make it work. Common sense....plus having a knowledge of what needs to be done to make the newer, more energy efficient units, working.  Mine has been in for 5 years and once I insulated the rear access panels, no issues.

start at the top and read down....good experience from folks that understand....

Morning

Tom we went away from the coach for the weekend, shut everything down,turned fridge back on late afternoon and this morning not cooling, going to take the plunge to the Samsung 17cf,I was looking online this morning and seems there are only 17.5 cf,does that effect the overall dimensions? I will take some measurements to confirm,going to buy a 12 volt freezer/fridge to get by for next couple weeks until I can figure this out.

Ivan has similar coach,did you switch yours over in your 2000 signature?

Thanks

Wayne 

1999 Signature ceaser 

[jacwjames]

The Samsung RF18 is taller then the Norcold, if you have storage above or a drawer below the swap would be fairly simple but there may be plumbing or electrical that you would have to deal with. 

 

[Georgia Mike]

I found this thread a while back and saved it. This company makes door seals for the Norcold 1200 or an other refrigerator. I haven’t had to use them but it’s an alternative.
https://www.irv2.com/forums/f54/source-for-refrigerator-door-seals-412632.html

[Ivan K]

5 hours ago, WayneC said:

Ivan has similar coach,did you switch yours over in your 2000 signature?

Thanks

Wayne 

1999 Signature ceaser 

Wayne, I have not changed the fridge. Original owner had the coil replaced by a controversial company in AR that still looks and works fine. I just added more protection to it. It fits our boondocking style.

But if/ when I eventually have to do it, I would lower it's pedestal and leave the electronics above the fridge alone. There is nothing but some cables below the fridge floor.

Edited July 18, 2022 by Ivan K

[WayneC]

3 hours ago, Ivan K said:

Wayne, I have not changed the fridge. Original owner had the coil replaced by a controversial company in AR that still looks and works fine. I just added more protection to it. It fits our boondocking style.

But if/ when I eventually have to do it, I would lower it's pedestal and leave the electronics above the fridge alone. There is nothing but some cables below the fridge floor.

Thanks Ivan 

I bought a portable fridge/freezer today,$1200.00 cdn on sale for $900.00,I am at our property on the Lake in Nova Scotia so it was not hard to find one with all the Marine suppliers, it may be great for boon docking,that's what we have been doing for the last 2 weeks ,in saying that with new batteries and all I think that's why the fridge went on the blink.23 years,good run, I think I will take it out and eventually go to residential, have the other unit for boon docking and put it in the basement tray for travel.

I will let you know how it works.

Thanks for reaching out 

Wayne 

1999 Signature ceaser 

[Ivan K]

Sounds good, Wayne. I would like to hear how you got the old out and new in when you get it done. Nova Scotia is beautiful. Have fun out there, we are heading out to hopefully cool down up north, not that far though...

[Chuck H]

I just saw this post and was wanting to know if I should be concerned about the old 2-door N821 fridge in our 2002 Knight which is working quite well .

[WayneC]

8 minutes ago, Ivan K said:

Sounds good, Wayne. I would like to hear how you got the old out and new in when you get it done. Nova Scotia is beautiful. Have fun out there, we are heading out to hopefully cool down up north, not that far though...

We are finally getting power onto the property this week so that will make life easier, hopefully building in the spring,enjoy the trip north

Wayne 

1999 Signature ceaser 

9 minutes ago, Chuck H said:

I just saw this post and was wanting to know if I should be concerned about the old 2-door N821 fridge in our 2002 Knight which is working quite well .

Chuck

Lots of correspondence in regards to the Norcold fridges,as you have read mine is 23 years old,has had the recall updates,just not running properly on AC, probably would work on propane but not the way I would like to go while boon docking for a month,to much propane ,do not like what I have read over the years in regards to these fridges and some of the incidents, so something not running right I turned the power off and bought the portable unit until I figure things out,safety first

Wayne 

1999 Signature ceaser 

[Tom Cherry]

9 hours ago, WayneC said:

Morning

Tom we went away from the coach for the weekend, shut everything down,turned fridge back on late afternoon and this morning not cooling, going to take the plunge to the Samsung 17cf,I was looking online this morning and seems there are only 17.5 cf,does that effect the overall dimensions? I will take some measurements to confirm,going to buy a 12 volt freezer/fridge to get by for next couple weeks until I can figure this out.

Ivan has similar coach,did you switch yours over in your 2000 signature?

Thanks

Wayne 

1999 Signature ceaser 

Wise decision.  I double and triple and did the measurements again.  I had the Dometic and the Samsung fit when you cut off the floor or the shelf where the bottom drawer was under the Dometic.  I did NOT pay attention to the three doors and the swings and such.  LUCKY beats SMART any day.  My sink countertop has a curved extension that overhangs the lower cabinet face or door under it.  Instead of a 3” or so straight overhang, mine is curved and sticks out at least 10 inches.  Doors STILL, with both slides retracted, have good clearance for opening so you can load or use the refrigerator with the slides in.  

Check the Front and the door swings AS WELL.

[Chuck H]

I totally understand. From what I have read you made the safest decision for everybody involved. 

[WayneC]

4 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

Wise decision.  I double and triple and did the measurements again.  I had the Dometic and the Samsung fit when you cut off the floor or the shelf where the bottom drawer was under the Dometic.  I did NOT pay attention to the three doors and the swings and such.  LUCKY beats SMART any day.  My sink countertop has a curved extension that overhangs the lower cabinet face or door under it.  Instead of a 3” or so straight overhang, mine is curved and sticks out at least 10 inches.  Doors STILL, with both slides retracted, have good clearance for opening so you can load or use the refrigerator with the slides in.  

Check the Front and the door swings AS WELL.

Thanks Tom

Wayne

1999 Signature ceaser 

[Gospel]

MODERATOR EDIT

This topic has been combined with an ongoing  one.  Please, per the rules, do a search prior to posting.

Thanks.

NOTE . If you use the search in the upper corner, use NORCOLD and select Topics.  There is probably 10mor more with all the information you might need.  Read the or skim and you will find about every solution as well as help there.

Original post is as follows:

I have a  Norcold 12101M and I can smell ammonia so I assume it has a leak, It was operational a month ago on a 3 week trip. Has anyone replaced the absorption unit. I see JC Refrigeration has a replacement unit for the absorption unit for the Norcold.  Has anyone replaced theirs. I have a 2008 Monaco Knight 'that it's in.

[DavidL]

my understanding is that the ammonia is highly flammable and has taken down a lot of RVs....so you want to address this sooner than later and not use it / don't get an open flame or hot element near it.

Most replace the RV fridge with a residential one.

Yes, I have seen replacement parts providers like you reference.  That might be the best path if you need propane cooling.