Drag link

[Georgia Mike]

I am down here in Melbourne FL for thanksgiving and brought my rig over to Josam’s to have an air leak fixed. I asked Barry to inspect the chassis for any other problems. When I went to pick it up he said the drag link would need to be replaced in 6-8 months. I know about the only place you can get them is Hendersons and they are expensive. Barry said that’s where he gets them. My question…..is this something I can replace? I have looked all over this form and can find people have fixed them by welding them but no one replacing them. Barry told me I need the 58 inch drag link so I know the one I need. Has anyone done this themselves?

[Brad Kruchten]

I cut the end off mind and welded a new one on.   Worked out well.  

[jacwjames]

Here's a post from IRV2

https://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/drag-link-ball-joint-replacement-444775.html

Here's a fairly recent one from the Monacoers.org site

 

[Dr4Film]

I had Barry at Josam's replace the drag link on my previous Windsor back in July of 2017. That is something that I have no desire to tackle so I let the experts, Josam's, do it for me.

I will be taking my Dynasty to Josam's sometime this winter to have some HWH Air Leveling leaks taken care of plus have the Borg Dully Stems and Tag Axle Stems replaced. I will have him also check my drag link since my coach is also a 2006. 

[jacwjames]

When I lube and inspect my coach I'm always looking for problems.  When I check my drag link I basically grab it and put as much pressure on it to see if I see any play. 

Is there another way to check it???

I am not having any trouble with my steering, still no wondering, minimal play (if any) and I have the Sheppard box!!

[Tom Wallis]

1 hour ago, jacwjames said:

When I lube and inspect my coach I'm always looking for problems.  When I check my drag link I basically grab it and put as much pressure on it to see if I see any play. 

Is there another way to check it???

I am not having any trouble with my steering, still no wondering, minimal play (if any) and I have the Sheppard box!!

Checking steering linkage is best done with 2 people. With the engine running and wheels strait ahead on a hard surface, one person turns the steering wheel back and forth through all of its free play plus a little more, just till you notice the wheels start to turn. The other person gets under the front and observes all the connections. Sometimes the play is hard to see so the person turning the wheel can try faster or slower movements. Also, try putting your hand on both sides of the connection and you can feel how much play there is.

[Tom Wallis]

2 hours ago, Georgia Mike said:

I am down here in Melbourne FL for thanksgiving and brought my rig over to Josam’s to have an air leak fixed. I asked Barry to inspect the chassis for any other problems. When I went to pick it up he said the drag link would need to be replaced in 6-8 months. I know about the only place you can get them is Hendersons and they are expensive. Barry said that’s where he gets them. My question…..is this something I can replace? I have looked all over this form and can find people have fixed them by welding them but no one replacing them. Barry told me I need the 58 inch drag link so I know the one I need. Has anyone done this themselves?

Changing a drag link is not a big job but separating the tapered ends from there socket is tricky if you don't know how. Probably using a pickle fork is the easiest but it's not available to everyone and you shouldn't use it on any joint that you intend to reuse. Without a pickle fork, loosen the nut but don't take it clear off. Position a bar between the 2 sides so you can apply some separating pressure  then hit the end of the tapered eye with a very large hammer. This is also easier done with 2 people. They can be a bear and it may take a lot of prying and a lot of hitting before they separate.

[Mike H]

On 11/24/2022 at 8:40 AM, Georgia Mike said:

I am down here in Melbourne FL for thanksgiving and brought my rig over to Josam’s to have an air leak fixed. I asked Barry to inspect the chassis for any other problems. When I went to pick it up he said the drag link would need to be replaced in 6-8 months. I know about the only place you can get them is Hendersons and they are expensive. Barry said that’s where he gets them. My question…..is this something I can replace? I have looked all over this form and can find people have fixed them by welding them but no one replacing them. Barry told me I need the 58 inch drag link so I know the one I need. Has anyone done this themselves?

I was just over at JOSAM's a week ago and he told me I had the same exact problem.  He said a new one would be around $1,500 and gave me the same exact time frame to get mine replaced.  He wanted me to schedule an appointment but I told him to check as to when he could get one and let me know and then I'd have him schedule me in.  With the unknown regarding parts availability it could be a problem even getting one anytime soon.

[Happycarz]

Kaiser Brake and Alignment, located in Eugene, OR, is a great second source for drag links. They are familiar with the Monaco components and I have two friends that bought drag links from them.

https://kaiserbrakealignment.com/parts/

[Georgia Mike]

I finally finished up my Drag Link replacement. With the guidance of Capt. Dean who did this already I cut a grove down two sides of the crimped on tie rod end. I had to use a 5 foot bar on the end of a pipe wrench and a lot of heat. The other end came off a little easier. Before I took the ends off I laid it down on a sheet of Masonite and traced out a template of the length and orientation. Getting the ends screwed back in was a PITA. I had to have my son help with another cheater bar going the opposite direction. I then welded the one end that was crimped so it wouldn’t move. I have about $150 in it. I know those Drag Links cost about $1600 and what ever Josams charges to install it. Hopefully I will get many miles out of it. If anyone is going to attempt this you have to have a big bench Vise that’s bolted down very well. 

 

[tmw188]

How’s that repair holding up. I replaced my dust cap on that end and getting it to drop out of the tapered end wasn’t too bad, just 6-8 good blows with a 3lb hammer and it dropped down on the nut I left on with a few turns left on. Used a 1/2” impact to draw it up tight, kinda tricky to get it tight and on to a spot to put the cotter pin in. 

[jacwjames]

Todd, where did you get the dust boot?  I've got one that is cracked and needs replacing.

[tmw188]

I will have to look and will post it. I bought a digital caliper to get some measurements before ordering. 

[jacwjames]

Got the PM on the dust boot, the part number is listed in the Parts Listing, Energy Solutions, ~$16 delivered.

[tmw188]

That’s correct thanks for posting.

[Robert92867]

1 hour ago, jacwjames said:

Got the PM on the dust boot, the part number is listed in the Parts Listing, Energy Solutions, ~$16 delivered.

Jim, I tried search engine on Energy Solutions... keeps coming up with Nuclear consulting firm.  Can you provide more detail, please?

[Ivan K]

Try energy suspension instead

[Robert92867]

8 hours ago, Ivan K said:

Try energy suspension instead

Bingo!

[tmw188]

[jacwjames]

So I ordered and received the dust boot and finally got a chance to replace it. 

Not a bad job, dirty but that's what you'd expect.  Took me a while to get the darn cotter pin out, finally just broke into to two pieces and pulled each piece out individually.  Used large socket and breaker bar to loosen the nut most of the way out.  Turned the wheel pointing out and was able to use a sledge hammer to knock it loose.  Dropped the steering link down and cleaned up the ball joint before putting the new boot on.  Lifted it back into position with some effort to align with the hole to get up high enough to start the nut.  Tightened the nut but could not get it tight so put 3 ton jack under the link and put pressure on it and was able to get it tight then backed castle nut off to align hole for new cotter key. 

Maybe an hours worth of work.  Wonder what a shop would have charged for that????

Then greased the front end and gave it a good once over inspection.👍 all good for the next trip coming up in a couple weeks. 

[tmw188]

I have a 1/2” drive electric impact from Harbor Freight that I used for both off and on that worked really well, if your wanting to add another tool to your arsenal. 

[FLynes]

5 minutes ago, tmw188 said:

I have a 1/2” drive electric impact from Harbor Freight that I used for both off and on that worked really well, if your wanting to add another tool to your arsenal. 

I've had my Harbor Freight 1/2" corded electric impact for over 20 years now, and it is a great tool. Not quite as powerful as the Milwaukee cordless 18v Fuel, but it can get the job done most times. I've only had to replace the brushes once.

[Dr4Film]

1 hour ago, jacwjames said:

Maybe an hours worth of work.  Wonder what a shop would have charged for that????

Depending on who & where you took it to have it replaced, most likely $150 or more!

[cbr046]

53 minutes ago, Dr4Film said:

Depending on who & where you took it to have it replaced, most likely $150 or more!

I'm sure the shop pricing manual would have called for 3 hours labor, so $450!

- b

[tmw188]

5 hours ago, FLynes said:

I've had my Harbor Freight 1/2" corded electric impact for over 20 years now, and it is a great tool. Not quite as powerful as the Milwaukee cordless 18v Fuel, but it can get the job done most times. I've only had to replace the brushes once.

I actually carry mine with me in the car spare tire compartment, you just never know.