Waterproof Solder Shrink Wrap Connectors

[VinceB]

Has anyone used these? I saw their ad on YouTube as a video - don't see the video on their site but looks to be impressive.

https://www.peachloft.com/pages/waterproof-solder-wire-connectors-gg#overview

 

[streetrodder]

There great 

They're great

[CMillet86]

I hate them, the shrink wrap melts before the solder half the time. 

[Tom Cherry]

Nope…interesting.  I wonder about the solder flow characteristics…….as well as the amount of wire in the twisted section….Spent too much time the Weller soldering irons and guns plants we had in my Tool Group Division…

Just helped my well contractor install a new deep submersible pump.  He uses #12 and there is a special kit.  Has 3 crimp fittings and three special high durability silicone rubber shrink tube.  All the electrical supply shops in the area sell them if they sell “well wire”.  One clerk told me that almost 100% of the professionals that install or replace pumps use them.  Mine were 13 years old and the wire, when I shaved away the 13 year old tubing, was bright and shiny.  Hard to knock that success story.

You CAN also solder AFTER crimping…then insulate with the special tubing.  Really DURABLE.

[Cubflyer]

20 minutes ago, CMillet86 said:

I hate them, the shrink wrap melts before the solder half the time. 

There are different levels of quality in these heat/melt/seal connectors.  Good ones are used all the time in aviation avionic installations.  Toms comments are true but are more about larger heavy duty wires.  In the right application and good quality ones are, as Streetrodder said, GREAT.

Ken

[streetrodder]

Burn up when toooo much heat NO flame heat gun

[1nolaguy]

I've been using them on low voltage (<48vdc) for two years. Not this brand but you can get them on Amazon and ebay pretty cheap. They work well. Not comfortable to try then on 120vac although the come large enough to do 10ga. I've used direct flame, as in a butane lighter on small guage but the thicker the guage the more heat required to melt the solder and you can end up with a mess. Two level heat gun and keep it moving like a hair dryer works up to 12 ga successfully. Great especially for anything that's out doors. If your using outdoors look for the ones with a hottest sealer. TIP: If the solder does not melt quickly heat shrink the ends first then come back to the solder center. Also, pass on wire all the way through. Overlap the bare strands and twist together horizontally then pull back until the bare copper is centered in the solder ring. I normally strip my wires about 1/2 to 3/4" and upside the unit. So for example if I am joining two 18ga twisted together I will use the blue ones.

[Mocephus]

Yes, I find them effective and really easy to use. Use a heat gun, not a flame.

[DennisZ]

I’ve used these a lot, they are fine for low voltage in areas that do not get hot, they tend to go bad in high heat areas over time. They don’t contain enough flux in the solder to give real good flow, so I generally add a drop of rosin flux to the wires prior installation, the other comments about overlapping the wires or twisting them are both good practices, otherwise you are depending solely on the solder for the strength of the gap.

BTW, these are not a new fad idea, I was using them in aircraft wiring 50+ years ago, although much more robust and higher quality items.

Edited August 10, 2023 by DennisZ

[dennis.mcdonaugh]

I’ve only used them on low voltage circuits, but the ones I got from Amazon work great. 

[1nolaguy]

17 hours ago, Mocephus said:

Yes, I find them effective and really easy to use. Use a heat gun, not a flame.

I agree about preferably using a heat gun. In an emergency and on higher gauge wire (20-24) I have used an open flame but also if using one on;y the heat from it . Don not make direct contact between the flame and the plastic; fire will in sue.

[MyronTruex]

I tried a few and tossed the rest of them. I prefer to heat and shrink using heavier duty stuff. These are ok, but just barely.  50+ years in electronics. Component level repairs. Own an electronics repair center. 

[johncvandoren@gmail.com]

On 8/9/2023 at 1:38 PM, VinceB said:

Has anyone used these? I saw their ad on YouTube as a video - don't see the video on their site but looks to be impressive.

https://www.peachloft.com/pages/waterproof-solder-wire-connectors-gg#overview

 

Yes, I have used them—better than crimps on our rolling earthquakes!

[Chargerman]

MODERATOR EDIT

This topic and these devices have been discussed a number of times and the general rule of thumb for the Moderators is that similar Topics will be merged with the original Topic, unless there is a compelling reason for let the new Topic stand as it is unique.

In this case, after a search was done, this one popped up.

In addition, there is a new requirement that members first do a search before posting.  SOLDER was used and there are 7 pages on such.

This "subject", unfortunately morphed from time to time and the personal preferences or the "qualifications" of a poster or several "CODE" passages" muddled it. 

END OF EDIT

A friend turned me on to these and I’ve been using them for a few months now and love them. You use a heat gun to melt the solder and shrink the sleeves at the same time 

[Doug and Nicki]

These work great! I bought the same kit from Amazon. No more crimping or soldering.

[Dr4Film]

How much heat do you need to melt the solder? I would think the heat-shrink tubing would react first before the solder melts.

Is there a link to the product?

Edited December 6, 2023 by Dr4Film

[JDCrow]

Strange as I cannot stand these. I’d much rather solder by hand and cut shrink wrap to fit. 

[MyronTruex]

I tossed my assortment.

Too many years with the old fashioned way. Soldering creates a solid core conductor which is more susceptible to breaking if exposed to vibration etc. I understand the shrink may provide some protection to that. And I wonder about how much heat it really takes to get the solder at the proper temp. I worry too much about "cold solder joints".

These are fine for weekenders. But not in my tool box. 

[Chargerman]

I’m curious as to why you guys don’t like them? Did they not function as intended? When my buddy first showed them to me I took a couple and tried them then cut them open to see the solder joint closely and they were very robust.  I’ve been sold on them since.  
 

Richard

     They do shrink before the solder has melted but you just keep the heat on it until the solder melts. Don’t try to use a torch, too much heat. One thing I have found is key to the best joining is to select the correct size and be sure the wires are pushed in far enough so that they cross each other

Edited December 6, 2023 by Chargerman

[Cubflyer]

8 hours ago, Dr4Film said:

How much heat do you need to melt the solder? I would think the heat-shrink tubing would react first before the solder melts.

Heat gun preferred, but an open flame has been used... probably in the 200-250F range, and yes the shrink tubing shrinks first, sort of seals the sleeve to the wire so when the low melt point solder melts it stays in the sleeve and around the wires.  I like them, but I suspect that there are different levels of quality.

Ken

[Bill R]

1 hour ago, Cubflyer said:

Heat gun preferred, but an open flame has been used.

I have used these on several occasions with good results.  This is not scientific, but I use a multi-purpose BIC propane lighter.  Gives plenty of heat and I can direct it to the exact spot I want.  I start with the flame directly on the solder, after I see the solder melt, I then travel back and forth to get a good shrink on the wrap.  Has worked great for me.  Convenient, easy and fast, but not scientific.

[DennisZ]

Those splices use a low melting point solder, they are great for “emergency” repairs, but the solder does become brittle with age. An important step to help ensure a good joint is to apply a good grade of electronics flux to the wires, and make sure the wires overlap in the soldered area, they will last much longer. I still prefer a good quality crimp splice and double wall heat shrink.

[Tom Cherry]

The Heat Shrink Solder terminals topic just started yesterday was merged with the last discussion in August.  Lots of good information there, so it is recommended that before someone posts, they review the other posts.  

There was also several other "Topics" on "Crimped" vs "Solder" and they really went into detail and personal experiences and code and whatever got somewhat deep....almost "heated"....YES...that was a PUN.

We Moderators try to allow a complete discussion and sometimes the comments turn almost personal.  This is one subject that, IIRC, did.

So, please be aware of the concerns that no one wants to make a repair that is not long lasting and that many feel they have expertise and want to share it.  There was a search done and the last discussion was where this one was merged.

Solder versus Crimp versus Crimp & Solder will be debated, we suspect, long after the current moderator have turned in their keys.  SO, here are the past topics that might interest those with a raging "technical curiosity".  Some of these topics have multiple pages and the discussion sort of morphed into "the debate" as to the BEST joining technique.  I quit with topics that were over 3 years old....

Have at it.... 

 

[MyronTruex]

The look of the solder on the ones I bought looked crystalined, if that is what the term for brittle looking. 

My opinion of course. But fifty years of soldering and even being a Nasa level trained solderer keeps my spidy senses awake. I have seen all levels of soldering techniques and watched many competent techs do poor soldering. 

These are fine for the weekend as I mentioned and only time will tell if they are reliable. 

[Guest Ray Davis]

My 2 cents, whatever method of splice you use it's important to try your best to make a good splice.   I have run across too many crimp joints that came loose and soldering older wires can be problematic if not impossible.  

I agree that low-temperature solders are not equal to good old 60/40 tin-lead solders but they have their place.  Some melt at ridiculously low temp.   Interestingly some swell when they cool making them good for setting instruments etc in place.   Just hold the object in place and pour the solder around it, presto, it's set.                      Below is a copy I found

"Low-temperature solders have melting points ranging from 117°F (47°C) to 320°F (160°C). These solder alloys contain Tin blended with a variety of metals such as Bismuth, Indium, Cadmium, etc."

It's probably best not to breathe the fumes.