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Safe-T Steer for RR8R


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Good morning, I have a 2006 Kinght just changed out the old Monroe shocks with 31,000 miles to Bilstein's, has anybody installed the Safe-T Steer on a RR8R Roadmaster chassies ?

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11 minutes ago, vito.a said:

The Safe-T-Steer is really not effective on the Roadmaster chassis.  What does work well is the Monaco Watts.  

https://www.monacowatts.com

The issue is not tie rod movement, but the entire sub-suspension.  Monaco uses a large H frame sub-suspension and the Watts helps limit side to side movement.  

Have a front a front Watts, and sway bar as well. 
 

Adding Rear Watts and Sway bar in a few weeks before we strike out on a road trip. 

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10 minutes ago, Chuck B 2004 Windsor said:

IMO, there are too many variables to deal with while driving down a road.  Side wind, head wind, and tail wind.  Of course those variables change with each curve in the road.

I agree, and I’ll add that there is a lot of variables in a older Coach that has the Roadmaster suspensions. 
 

The H frame has a lot of opportunity to move. 

To OP, loads and loads of threads on here about how to get steering manageable, If that is what you are after. 

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It’s been a few years but yes I have.It wasn’t that difficult their technical support is really good. I travel from Kansas City to Denver frequently and experience Crosswinds it definitely helps. It’s also supposed to help with a front tire blowout but I’ve never experienced that. 

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My comment is my experience and also a lot of research.

FIRST AND FOREMOST.  I have spent a lot of $$ on chassis and suspension upgrades.  My story and history has at least 3 or 4 members that followed the same path.  I have the Blue Ox TruCenter and Source Engineering front and rear sway bars and the larger diameter SOURCE Bilstein shocks up front and regular Source Bilstein on the rear and a Watts link.  My MH came with a TRW Steering Box .  It is about as good as you will get and drives and handles like a dream.  I tow a Yukon and have a C7 Z51 Stingray Vette.  I have over 75k in MH…65 in Camelot.  My wife says I drive more aggressively into curves and exits in the Camelot than with the Yukon.  

I have the same chassis as the OP.  SO HERE GOES. In order of best handling and best value

First…look at your build sheet to see if you have a TRW or a Shepherd box.  There are many posts on replacing the wobbly Shepherd with a TRW…INCLUDING pictures.  If the OP has a Shepherd, verify the replacement TRW and do that or have it replaced.

Install a Watts link.  I did mine.  Relatively easy.  See the posts here. Mike Hughes has a superb kit.  I did not opt for the rear X braces as I think my rear stabilizer bar is doing the same job.

You have already done shocks.  Shocks improve the ride comfort and not the “handling”.  See how it drives and wait….if you want to reduce driver fatigue….keep reading and add a stabilizer.

Add a front stabilizer.  I chose the Blue Ox.  It has an adjustable or centering control.  The Chassis specialist from one of the steering stabilizer companies was hired to help design the Blue Ox.  You need a “trim” control.  That was the advice.

After I bought mine, Hendersons in Oregon copied the Blue Ox design. The are a leading front end specialist and work on the Roadmaster chassis.  They sell the best Non Adjustable Brand, BUT HIGHLY recommend their trim or adjustment kit.  Or buy the Blue Ox.  Many chassis savvy folks put on the Blue Ox and I got several recommendations from some shops and good “drivers”.

Stop there.  Yes, the Source sway bars are GREAT.  But I think the stuff above will accomplish a whole lot more for less $$. I HAD BOTH sway bars on and it drove a heck of a lot….and I mean a LOT better after installing the Source items.  But the Watts kit made the most difference.  Maybe I don’t need the Blue Ox, but it was the first chassis upgrade.

My opinion..others might (will..LOL) differ….but you asked.

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6 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:

My comment is my experience and also a lot of research.

FIRST AND FOREMOST.  I have spent a lot of $$ on chassis and suspension upgrades.  My story and history has at least 3 or 4 members that followed the same path.  I have the Blue Ox TruCenter and Source Engineering front and rear sway bars and the larger diameter SOURCE Bilstein shocks up front and regular Source Bilstein on the rear and a Watts link.  My MH came with a TRW Steering Box .  It is about as good as you will get and drives and handles like a dream.  I tow a Yukon and have a C7 Z51 Stingray Vette.  I have over 75k in MH…65 in Camelot.  My wife says I drive more aggressively into curves and exits in the Camelot than with the Yukon.  
 

I have the same chassis as the OP.  SO HERE GOES. In order of best handling and best value

First…look at your build sheet to see if you have a TRW or a Shepherd box.  There are many posts on replacing the wobbly Shepherd with a TRW…INCLUDING pictures.  If the OP has a Shepherd, verify the replacement TRW and do that or have it replaced.

Install a Watts link.  I did mine.  Relatively easy.  See the posts here. Mike Hughes has a superb kit.  I did not opt for the rear X braces as I think my rear stabilizer bar is doing the same job.

you have already done shocks.  Shocks improve the ride comfort and not the “handling”.  See how it drives and wait….if you want to reduce driver fatigue….keep reading and add a stabilizer.

Add a front stabilizer.  I chose the Blue Ox.  It has an adjustable or centering control,  the Chassis specialist from one of the steering stabilizer companies was hired to help design the Blue Ox.  You need a “trim” control.  
 

After I bought mine, Hendersons in Oregon copied the Blue Ox design. The are a leading front en$ specialist.  They sell the best Non Adjustable Brand, BUT HIGHLY recommend their trim or adjustment kit.  Or buy the Blue Ox.  Many chassis savvy folks put on the Blue Ox and I got several recommendations from some shops and good “drivers”.

Stop there.  Yes, the Source sway bars are GREAT.  But I think the stuff above will accomplish a whole lot more for less $$. I HAD BOTH sway bars on and it drove a heck of a lot….and I mean a LOT better after installing the Source items.  But the Watts kit made the most difference.  Maybe I don’t need the Blue Ox, but it was the first chassis upgrade.

My opinion..others might (will..LOL) differ….but you asked.

You da man! Thanks for sharing! 

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1 hour ago, vito.a said:

The Safe-T-Steer is really not effective on the Roadmaster chassis.  What does work well is the Monaco Watts.  

I agree also, that is why I have one available, I have the Watts link on the front along with the swaybar and the crossbars on the back... huge improvement.

Ken

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My safe-t-steer went into the landfill after the TRW swap and other mods as mentioned already.

It just made turning the wheel harder. It did little to stop wandering. It was hard to center so I built an electric trim which worked just ok. 

Sway bars, shocks, X bars, watts links front and back, TRW steering box, tires, alignments. Tons of money. Best bang for the buck was the TRW box. But the watts links stop the S wandering mostly. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

I have the Safe-T-Steer installed on my 2012 Diplomat with the RR10R.  Your RR8R should be the same setup.  I installed it in 2018, shortly after I bought the coach.  The installation was very straightforward and easy.  I did have to borrow a 3/4 inch breaker and large socket.  If you can’t do it yourself, I would think any truck shop could install it in way less than an hour.  
I purchased mainly for the tire blowout security aspect.  My coach has the Sheppard box, but I don’t notice any wandering. 

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12 hours ago, Georgia Mike said:

I ended up going to the Monaco website and sent them an email with my information so I will see what happens.

Mike and others.  This sort of morphed into "Which Steering Box Do I have?"  YES, the build sheet is the easiest way.  BUT, there is an even easier way.  Assuming that one can shinny under the front Driver's side and look up at the steering box.  LOOK at the way the Pitman or Steering Arm is attached.  

The TRW has a big clamp on the arm...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/203193643551

The Shepherd has only a Spline in the arm and there is an external "Bolt and Retainer" or such to hold it on.

https://mrsteeringspecialist.com/product/sheppard-pitman-steering-arm-box-m100-2596284/

If you scroll down on the above link, you will see a TRW arm listed and it does NOT have the clamp installed....just the two ears.

THAT is the absolute....easiest way to determine it. 

BUT....If you have the Shepherd arm, then you will have to have someone get you some PN and also a picture of the Shepherd.  MOST, but not ALL, can be replaced.

https://www.rhsheppard.com/products-services/products/remanufactured-parts/identifying-sheppard-cores/#:~:text=The model of the steering,for them to become legible.

I forget, but others know more, what the preferred company is that does the "swap" and they can tell you, based on the info above, whether or not they have a bracket or a TRW direct replacement....

Hope this helps....  @vanwill52 is the one that I would PM for more details....he is MORE than an expert....and is a whiz....

On 8/22/2022 at 8:00 AM, myrontruex said:

My safe-t-steer went into the landfill after the TRW swap and other mods as mentioned already.

It just made turning the wheel harder. It did little to stop wandering. It was hard to center so I built an electric trim which worked just ok. 

Sway bars, shocks, X bars, watts links front and back, TRW steering box, tires, alignments. Tons of money. Best bang for the buck was the TRW box. But the watts links stop the S wandering mostly. 

amen....I did the same.  But, I left the Blu Ox on and all the other Source stuff....as I did not want to take it off.  The Blue Ox, with it's adjustable trim or the Trim Kit for the Safe-T-Steer that Henderson's sells works. IF I had a Safe-T-Steer and had NO trim....I would purchase the correct one from Hendersons' and install it. Makes all the difference....

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On 9/3/2022 at 10:17 AM, Tom Cherry said:

Mike and others.  This sort of morphed into "Which Steering Box Do I have?"  YES, the build sheet is the easiest way.  BUT, there is an even easier way.  Assuming that one can shinny under the front Driver's side and look up at the steering box.  LOOK at the way the Pitman or Steering Arm is attached.  

The TRW has a big clamp on the arm...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/203193643551

The Shepherd has only a Spline in the arm and there is an external "Bolt and Retainer" or such to hold it on.

https://mrsteeringspecialist.com/product/sheppard-pitman-steering-arm-box-m100-2596284/

If you scroll down on the above link, you will see a TRW arm listed and it does NOT have the clamp installed....just the two ears.

THAT is the absolute....easiest way to determine it. 

BUT....If you have the Shepherd arm, then you will have to have someone get you some PN and also a picture of the Shepherd.  MOST, but not ALL, can be replaced.

https://www.rhsheppard.com/products-services/products/remanufactured-parts/identifying-sheppard-cores/#:~:text=The model of the steering,for them to become legible.

I forget, but others know more, what the preferred company is that does the "swap" and they can tell you, based on the info above, whether or not they have a bracket or a TRW direct replacement....

Hope this helps....  @vanwill52 is the one that I would PM for more details....he is MORE than an expert....and is a whiz....

amen....I did the same.  But, I left the Blu Ox on and all the other Source stuff....as I did not want to take it off.  The Blue Ox, with it's adjustable trim or the Trim Kit for the Safe-T-Steer that Henderson's sells works. IF I had a Safe-T-Steer and had NO trim....I would purchase the correct one from Hendersons' and install it. Makes all the difference....

I installed the Safe-T-Plus on my 1998 Dip.  The main problem with that system is that there is no way to trim the system to road surface crown from the drivers seat.

Not all roads are straight and level so I was fighting the road surface by constantly having to adjust the steering wheel.  As far as I was concern I was still fighting the road surface after spending a lot of money on a device that would not adjust to road surface.

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14 minutes ago, Chuck B 2004 Windsor said:

I installed the Safe-T-Plus on my 1998 Dip.  The main problem with that system is that there is no way to trim the system to road surface crown from the drivers seat.

Not all roads are straight and level so I was fighting the road surface by constantly having to adjust the steering wheel.  As far as I was concern I was still fighting the road surface after spending a lot of money on a device that would not adjust to road surface.

I forgot to add from the drivers seat.  All this took place in year 2000.

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5 hours ago, Knight 40 PLQ said:

Dandick 66, did you notice any difference after installing Safe-T - Steer ?

I did notice an improvement in handling.  I bought new tires and had the front end aligned within a couple of months of installing the Safe-T-Steer.  I don’t experience any wandering.  I can feel strong winds, I don’t feel like I’m fighting to keep it straight.  I didn’t notice the coach being any more difficult to steer, either.  I have no regrets about purchasing it.  I hope I never have to test the blowout effectiveness of the Safe-T-Steer.  My understanding is the wheel will not jerk out of your hand if you have a blowout. 
 

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I've only owned my 06 Diplomat two years. I drove to California the first year and had Mike Hughes install his complete Watts Kit front and rear and can say it made a great deal of difference. The coach is much easier and enjoyable to drive and if I want I can carry a lot more speed into the curves. That's all I've done and I'm really happy with the Watts addition. I also tow a 013 Cadillac SRX everywhere we go. Lynn

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