IOTA 50-R FAILURE - intermittent shore power - SAFETY & FIRE HAZARD

[Tom Cherry]

3 hours ago, marcbachman said:

Hello, Monacoers- I am going to tell on myself. I can use a voltmeter but am apparently too lazy. I ordered the new transfer switch, which should be here today. I did a little bit more analysis to find out that my IOTA transfer switch indeed latches every time. Apparently the inverter, Magnum ME2012, was not inverting when I plugged in to shore power, and I erroneously assumed that it was the transfer switch. I took off the inspection cover on the side of the inverter, and verified that the incoming voltage was there @115 VAC, but that there was 0 output voltage to the coach. So I'm just presuming that since the house batteries were down that the inverter had gone into recharge mode to charge my house batteries, and that nothing will work until those batteries were charged. I checked later, and the Status panel in my camper showed that I had 50 amps, all my 12V appliances were green LED,  and the MAGNUM panel showed "Absorption Charging" and a voltage number,  or something like that. So the implication is that the transfer switch is latching, but my batteries had run down to where the inverter was shut off, until the batteries were charged enough. So the detail left to consult is that the new transfer switch is designed for the shore power and generator power lines to come in on one side, and the 115V to come out of the opposite side. I hope I have enough slack to make this work and there is enough room inside the new transfer switch, and that I can find the room to punch a hole for the output power going to the coach.

 

  GET RID OF THE IOTA.  It is HUMAN LIFE SAFETY ISSUE.  

The Magnum. WE ALL LEARN....I called Magnum.  I and others thought that the Magnum would PASS 115 AC through....regardless.EDIT.  We reviewed the MS Series.  Magnum Tech possibly wrong.  MS says it will work regardless of ON/OFF.  Folks have verified that.  
 

ME NOT SO. The Manual is a little vague and less forthcoming compared to the MS. Tech said.  IF you have a really beat up set of batteries, the Inverter/Charger DOES need to be ON....and you see a LIGHT.  That jibes with the trouble shooting guide,  Ordinarily, there is always some battery voltage and when it starts to charge there is an instantaneous closing of the ATS Relay.  BUT>>>>NOT ALWAYS.  BUT, depending on where you set the LBC (Low Battery Cutoff) you MIGHT NOT get power until the Magnum can pump out enough current to bring up the batteries to the LBC setting.  From the FACTORY the LBC is set to 10 VDC.  We tell folks that common sense is NOT to kill or totally knock down the voltage and that to keep from damaging your batteries....set the LBC to 11.7 - 11.8 or so.  THAT should give enough power to crank the Genny if you are using the AGS.  In addition, the Remote number you read will be about 0.10 - 0.15 VDC LOWER than what the actual batteries are....so you don't go below 50% SOC. 

Bottom line....If you had waited a few minutes, and the batteries were pumped up above the LBC setting....then you would have had power.  In the end, you have power,  

So, your situation was unique.  TYPICALLY.....when you have NO AC OUT of a Magnum, at the age of your rig.....then the Magnum INTERNAL relay or ATS. has bit the dust.  We have that, we think, on another thread.  FWIW....if it goes and therefore you need a NEW PCB or main board.  Over $500 and all the other electronics and fans and sensors and such are STILL USED and OLD.  Magnum says that IF you do the teardown and install the board yourself....you are OK, assuming you have the skill set.  BUT, if you have a dealer, unless he is really working cheap, that purchasing a NEW Replacement will put you $$ ahead.  I just went over that scenario with the Magnum Tech....BUY A NEW ONE....when a newer (less than 3 years) board fails....and the owner can do the labor....do it.  Otherwise, if an owner can swap out the Magnum, DIY and buy a new one.

Again....I learned today...

You should be good to go....but you probably need to do some PM on the batteries and make sure the electrolyte is OK and exercise them (drain for maybe 2 or 3 hours with a 350 Watt Halogen work light....stop when the Remote is around 11.7 and then check the Specific Gravity and Voltage.  Recharge and drain a few times....THEN you can have them load tested or look at the voltage and SG charts and see what they will recharge to or the SOC....

 

2 hours ago, Paul A. said:

What transfer switch would you recommend?

As a Moderator and also a 13 year veteran here, I may be biased.  But the ESCO Lyght LPT50BRD is the one that most folks use and mine has been in service since 2012.  Others have had them for longer.  We have never had a reported failure of the ESCO switches....the older 60N's HUMMED and ESCO recommends the LPT50BRD over them.  Scroll back, I THINK that I posted a summary here....if not on another similar thread.

[Chuck B 2004 Windsor]

I had the old ESCO PTS on my 2004 Windsor.  I plugged the shore power plug into the shore power and turned the breaker on.  If there was a hum, I would turn off the power and turn the power back on.  The hum would go away.  No big deal for me.  Chuck B 2004 Windsor

[Tom Cherry]

14 minutes ago, Chuck B 2004 Windsor said:

I had the old ESCO PTS on my 2004 Windsor.  I plugged the shore power plug into the shore power and turned the breaker on.  If there was a hum, I would turn off the power and turn the power back on.  The hum would go away.  No big deal for me.  Chuck B 2004 Windsor

Chuck,

If that worked, GREAT.  I know that the 60N or whatever was a favorite of the Colonel. We had many debates and I almost got put in TIME OUT.  LOL

There were folks that bought it and used when they changed out their IOTA's and then did not like the hum.

SO...if you trick works....but the ESCO tech support recommend the ESCO LYGHT 50BRDLPT.  But, I THINK that they still have part for the "Tank".

Thanks for the tip....maybe some of the folks that have "New to THEM" older Monaco's with the original ESCO will use it.

 

[Chuck B 2004 Windsor]

I have never been blessed with a lot of spare money to throw at problems aka swap out artist.  I always tried to find a work around solution.  It took around a minute to reset a power post breaker.   Chuck B 2004 Windsor

[96 EVO]

7 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

     We have never had a reported failure of the ESCO switches.. 

We actually have......... Mine!

The switch itself didn't fail, but the buried generator time delay board burned up pretty good! Wish I had taken a picture of it before I tossed it.

Was happy the ESCO switch is enclosed in a steel box!

I mention it at the end of this thread, but didn't go into much detail. The time delay board was burned pretty good, with burn marks right up the plastic enclosure!

 

Edited August 12, 2022 by 96 EVO

[lake49068]

Navistar replaced my IOTA at a Chapter 419 gathering at the time of the recall campaign.  The replacement was a noisy ESCO which failed within about 5 years.  Purchased a Progressice Dynamics unit and it has been trouble free and quiet so there is another option.  And it`s made in Marshall Michigan!

[marcbachman]

18 hours ago, Paul A. said:

What transfer switch would you recommend?

I would really want to be able to recommend a mechanical/electrical device with the knowledge that I or someone I trust has represented that the manufacturer and/ or the device has a good warranty or a good track record. I have no such inspiration for a recommendation. I have ordered a Technology Research ( now Southwire ) 41260 transfer switch because it reportedly has surge protection built in. It is a verrry expensive item, and will require that I adapt it to my application in terms of how I route the wiring,  and I would guess that a good lightning or AC surge will burn out some part of a circuit board or similar protection that is built in. So that means I will pay a handsome price for the surge protection. This is my second motorhome, I don't even remember what transfer method was on the first one, so never mind that. I am a member of our local Holiday Ramblers group, which is aging out, and our future is somewhat uncertain. We have a member who has some kind of RV repair shop going in a county hundreds of miles from me. So far he has not offered or suggested many remedies for the electrical issues I have had, so I'm pretty much still on my own. That's why I'm here. There are some recommendations on other replies to my initial post.

[Tom Cherry]

11 hours ago, 96 EVO said:

We actually have......... Mine!

The switch itself didn't fail, but the buried generator time delay board burned up pretty good! Wish I had taken a picture of it before I tossed it.

Was happy the ESCO switch is enclosed in a steel box!

I mention it at the end of this thread, but didn't go into much detail. The time delay board was burned pretty good, with burn marks right up the plastic enclosure!

 

Bummer on the ESCO failure.  But I read the post and it looked like to me, that the Generator had a voltage issue and that was caused the ATS to fail.  The need for Surge Protection or under/over voltage on the Generator has been discussed many times here and in the past.  The consensus was that the Onan Generators were more reliable than the CG Pedestals. Tommy Fannelli of Progressive and I talked about that and i passed along his comment....and several other members chimed in. 

Tommy's recommendation was to have the Surge Protection UPSTREAM of the ATS....as that was the most vulnerable and also the most expensive "Result" from unacceptable power....specifically an open Neutral....which has been know to cost over $10,000...if run for an hour of so with the AC's on.

Which ESCO did you have.  What was the Part number. 

If it was the LPT50BRD, then, unless I missed a post during my 6 or so month hiatus, this IS the first reported failure here as well as on the Yahoo site.

Thanks, 

[Chuck B 2004 Windsor]

FWIW, the original ESCO PTS had a surge protection module attached to the outside of the metal box.  It was black in color.  

[Tom Cherry]

3 hours ago, lake49068 said:

Navistar replaced my IOTA at a Chapter 419 gathering at the time of the recall campaign.  The replacement was a noisy ESCO which failed within about 5 years.  Purchased a Progressice Dynamics unit and it has been trouble free and quiet so there is another option.  And it`s made in Marshall Michigan!

Your unit was a Navistar where the bulk of our members were pre Monaco bankruptcy.  If it was the 65N, that was also one of the first reported failures as the folks that had them....and loved them...despite the HUM considered them as the gold standard.

Now, that is NOT to say that there were not board and contactor failures.  Any electro mechanical device has the potential for failure. 

Specifically, if you have records or a good memory, WHICH ESCO did you have?  The TANK was the ES50M-65N. That was the one that ESCO said HUMMED....and we had members that complained. 

BUT, and this is my recollection....and some of the folks that were on the Yahoo site needs to chime in or refresh my fuzzy memory. The 65N was also easily field servicable....as is the LPT50BRD and the Progressive Surge protectors...specifically the HW50C.  In addition, ESCO's tech support was and still is pretty good....and the parts were readily available and very reasonable.  Just how many failed due to normal or perhaps "premature events"....such as a pedestal issue or a Generator failure....I haven't a clue...

Did Navistar specify the SWITCH.  We only had a few members when the recall came out that were impacted and it was my MEMORY that a plain Jane TRC was the "Monaco Dealer" approved replacement....don't know how Monaco handled it when there was no dealer and the owner had to fend for themselves...

Thanks....this is fascinating and also provides a good deal of info.

8 minutes ago, Chuck B 2004 Windsor said:

FWIW, the original ESCO PTS had a surge protection module attached to the outside of the metal box.  It was black in color.  

Chuck,

Thanks for chiming in.  I have a VAGUE recollection of an ESCO with Surge.  The switch that the Colonel and Fred and Bill Groves swore by was the ES50M-65N. That switch, according to the ESCO site has had a major price hit.  The MSRP is no $478....the LPT50BRD, also, has had a HIT...it is $469.  Obviously less elsewhere.

My memory was that most folks were purchasing the Progressive HW50C and using it with the ES50M-65N as there was not much of a choice in "Surge Protected" ATS.  Circa 2004/5, the Dynasty and above had higher quality, TRC surge protected models.  But the rank and file, such as my, from the Camelot on down got the IOTA.

There is no readily available info on the PST.....so that is why I never heard or barely recall it.

[Chuck B 2004 Windsor]

22 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:

Your unit was a Navistar where the bulk of our members were pre Monaco bankruptcy.  If it was the 65N, that was also one of the first reported failures as the folks that had them....and loved them...despite the HUM considered them as the gold standard.

Now, that is NOT to say that there were not board and contactor failures.  Any electro mechanical device has the potential for failure. 

Specifically, if you have records or a good memory, WHICH ESCO did you have?  The TANK was the ES50M-65N. That was the one that ESCO said HUMMED....and we had members that complained. 

BUT, and this is my recollection....and some of the folks that were on the Yahoo site needs to chime in or refresh my fuzzy memory. The 65N was also easily field servicable....as is the LPT50BRD and the Progressive Surge protectors...specifically the HW50C.  In addition, ESCO's tech support was and still is pretty good....and the parts were readily available and very reasonable.  Just how many failed due to normal or perhaps "premature events"....such as a pedestal issue or a Generator failure....I haven't a clue...

Did Navistar specify the SWITCH.  We only had a few members when the recall came out that were impacted and it was my MEMORY that a plain Jane TRC was the "Monaco Dealer" approved replacement....don't know how Monaco handled it when there was no dealer and the owner had to fend for themselves...

Thanks....this is fascinating and also provides a good deal of info.

Chuck,

Thanks for chiming in.  I have a VAGUE recollection of an ESCO with Surge.  The switch that the Colonel and Fred and Bill Groves swore by was the ES50M-65N. That switch, according to the ESCO site has had a major price hit.  The MSRP is no $478....the LPT50BRD, also, has had a HIT...it is $469.  Obviously less elsewhere.

My memory was that most folks were purchasing the Progressive HW50C and using it with the ES50M-65N as there was not much of a choice in "Surge Protected" ATS.  Circa 2004/5, the Dynasty and above had higher quality, TRC surge protected models.  But the rank and file, such as my, from the Camelot on down got the IOTA.

There is no readily available info on the PST.....so that is why I never heard or barely recall it.

Back in the 2004/5 time frame the Progressive Industries EMS HW 50C was the gold standard for 120 vac power protection.  I installed mine at the coach end of the power cord.  My coach was saved from several power surges including open neutrals, induced voltage from close lightning strikes, low voltage, high voltage, to name a few.  We full timed from 2004 until 2010 when we purchased a home and sold our Windsor.  Back then when the 50C was damaged by any power issue,  PI replaced the unit free.  

[Dr4Film]

34 minutes ago, marcbachman said:

I would really want to be able to recommend a mechanical/electrical device with the knowledge that I or someone I trust has represented that the manufacturer and/ or the device has a good warranty or a good track record. I have no such inspiration for a recommendation. I have ordered a Technology Research (now Southwire) 41260 transfer switch because it reportedly has surge protection built in. It is a very expensive item, and will require that I adapt it to my application in terms of how I route the wiring, and I would guess that a good lightning or AC surge will burn out some part of a circuit board or similar protection that is built in. So that means I will pay a handsome price for the surge protection. This is my second motorhome, I don't even remember what transfer method was on the first one, so never mind that. I am a member of our local Holiday Ramblers group, which is aging out, and our future is somewhat uncertain. We have a member who has some kind of RV repair shop going in a county hundreds of miles from me. So far, he has not offered or suggested many remedies for the electrical issues I have had, so I'm pretty much still on my own. That's why I'm here. There are some recommendations on other replies to my initial post.

I have 18+ years of history with the Lyght LPTBRD Transfer Switch which is still in the Windsor I sold last April. Both the Lyght and the ESCO model # LPTBRD are the very same identical transfer switches. They are excellent transfer switches.

I now have a NTU 2006 coach with a Southwire Transfer Switch model 41260. The previous owner chintz out when he had to replace the transfer switch as the coach originally came with model 40250 which is now obsolete and replaced with model either the 40350 or 40450 transfer switches. However, the 40350 does NOT communicate with the Aladdin System. You would need model 40450 to have it talk to the Aladdin System. Both the 40350 and the 40450 are way more expensive than the 41260.

The 40250 had a lot more safety features that are missing in the 41260. So, I decided to install the Progressive Industries EMS-HW-50C in front of the 41260 Transfer Switch. With those two items installed, I now have all of the safety features and protection of either a 40350 or 40450 Transfer Switch.

[lake49068]

Tom, disposed of all the ESCO paperwork so can't recover the specifics.  Was within days of leaving for Florida...had to act quickly!  As I indicated, the unit is made in Marshall Michigan down the road from where I live...called, picked it up, installed in the cold and on my way the next morning.  I also have the Progressive Industries (different company, similar name!) HW50C surge protector upstream of the transfer switch (again, great info learned at the Chapter 419 in 2011 from Dennis Pybus).  This setup has worked well.  The first year I had the HW50C was at a Florida campground that had upgraded and installed new power pedestals...got an "open neutral" warning.  Campground owner was ticked, called his installer who found that the pedestal's internal neutral was not properly connected by the manufacturer.  Repaired and confirmed by the HW50C.  Thought the IOTA affair was history but it does keep coming up.  And recommend supporting a great local business....Progressive Dynamics!

[96 EVO]

57 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:

 

If it was the LPT50BRD, then, unless I missed a post during my 6 or so month hiatus, this IS the first reported failure here as well as on the Yahoo site.

Thanks, 

Yes it is a LPT50BRD. 

New time delay board, and it's back doing it's thing. It was definitely caused by an issue with the gen not starting, and me not having shore disconnected likely didn't help !

[Chuck B 2004 Windsor]

I remember about the high temps from summer time temperatures that were around 100 degrees or more when voltage from all the airs that were running that caused the 120 ac voltage to go below 105 volts.  When voltage goes down, amps go up.  That would put a strain on the air conditioning units in our coach.  My PI unit would shut down the 120 vac coming into our coach due to low voltage.  

[Tom Cherry]

43 minutes ago, 96 EVO said:

Yes it is a LPT50BRD. 

New time delay board, and it's back doing it's thing. It was definitely caused by an issue with the gen not starting, and me not having shore disconnected likely didn't help !

ME TOO....

I once forgot to TURN OFF (or DW....but it was my fault not to remind her...LOL>>I LOVE HER DEARLY) the AC as our usual CG breakdown and depart. I started the Genny as I walked around the MH.  It was a bit hectic as she did not want to follow me in the Toad to a fuel stop and I did not want to go into that one hooked up.

Bottom line....I noticed the Genny was not running.  Can't remember if the idiot light on the dash (the run light) was blinking...as I was driving.  Turned it off...pressing the button.  After I fueled up and hooked up the TOAD, we got on our way.  Maybe 10 minutes later, I said a prayer and started the Genny.  VAROOM....  all is well.

My learned opinion....plus my offline tech support....said that the Genny sensed the load....as the AC's did not shut down.  It went into a fault mode or self protection. By letting it sit for a few minutes....and then restarting with the nominal (probably charging the battery on FLOAT) loads, it was OK.  Then the 2 minute timer on the Thermostat delayed the start.

ALL was well and the Genny has been happy eversince.

Glad it was on a replacement part.

Thanks for sharing.

[saflyer]

1 hour ago, Chuck B 2004 Windsor said:

I remember about the high temps from summer time temperatures that were around 100 degrees or more when voltage from all the airs that were running that caused the 120 ac voltage to go below 105 volts.  When voltage goes down, amps go up.  That would put a strain on the air conditioning units in our coach.  My PI unit would shut down the 120 vac coming into our coach due to low voltage.  

Which brings up the question is an autoformer a good addition to our coaches? And how hard are they to install and where?  (Hope it’s isn’t considered thread drift.)

Moderator EDIT note:  This is very close and also brings up a good topic.  If it gets "Heavy" into the autoformer which was a popular topic on the Yahoo site, I might do a tag or edit the title... for now...rock on....

Ed         
‘05 HR Ambassador 

Edited August 12, 2022 by Tom Cherry
Clarification

[96 EVO]

35 minutes ago, saflyer said:

Which brings up the question is an autoformer a good addition to our coaches? And how hard are they to install and where?  (Hope it’s isn’t considered thread drift.)

Ed         
‘05 HR Ambassador 

I carry one!

Didn't install it at all. When it's needed (maybe 1 in 7 or 8 parks), it comes out of the basement and sit's beside the power pedestal.

*edit* I find it's used the most at older parks with only 30A service!

Edited August 12, 2022 by 96 EVO

[jacwjames]

We bought an autoformer back in 2011 while staying at an older campground in the UP of MI.  The campground had a bad problem with voltage drop.  Initially the campground was not crowded but then as it filled up it got worse to the point the AC would kick off. 

So I bought the autoformer which worked great.  Only used it a hand full of times after that, a good insurance policy. 

I did not permanently mount it, just pull it out when we need it.  It is pretty heavy though.

[Dr4Film]

21 minutes ago, saflyer said:

Which brings up the question is an autoformer a good addition to our coaches? And how hard are they to install and where?  (Hope it isn’t considered thread drift.)

Ed         
‘05 HR Ambassador 

I purchased a Voltage Booster VC-50 made by Todd Coffelt back in April 2010. I installed it in-between the shore power and Progressive Industries EMS-HW-50C device in my Windsor. I removed it before selling the coach.

I now use it as a portable unit when needed.

powermaster voltage booster - Page 8 - iRV2 Forums

They are now obsolete and all that is available is the Hughes Autoformer.

https://tinyurl.com/4p4ya2db

[Gospel]

1 hour ago, Tom Cherry said:

ME TOO....

I once forgot to TURN OFF (or DW....but it was my fault not to remind her...LOL>>I LOVE HER DEARLY) the AC as our usual CG breakdown and depart. I started the Genny as I walked around the MH.  It was a bit hectic as she did not want to follow me in the Toad to a fuel stop and I did not want to go into that one hooked up.

Bottom line....I noticed the Genny was not running.  Can't remember if the idiot light on the dash (the run light) was blinking...as I was driving.  Turned it off...pressing the button.  After I fueled up and hooked up the TOAD, we got on our way.  Maybe 10 minutes later, I said a prayer and started the Genny.  VAROOM....  all is well.

My learned opinion....plus my offline tech support....said that the Genny sensed the load....as the AC's did not shut down.  It went into a fault mode or self protection. By letting it sit for a few minutes....and then restarting with the nominal (probably charging the battery on FLOAT) loads, it was OK.  Then the 2 minute timer on the Thermostat delayed the start.

ALL was well and the Genny has been happy eversince.

Glad it was on a replacement part.

Thanks for sharing.

As I mention earlier I am putting a Esco ATS in Saturday and aa progressive surge protector. Is there anything I should check prior to preforming the "smoke" test i.e. plugging it in to 240/50amp plug that is alive and well. My batteries are fully charged and ready to go, slow charge all week> My generator seem to be working well. Question. When the AC are running and I'm on shore power are they getting pwr thru inverter or is there a switch that supplies 120 directly to them. 

Thanks for the help guys.

[96 EVO]

AC's are getting their power direct from the breaker panel, not thru the inverter.

[Dr4Film]

1 hour ago, Gospel said:

 Question. When the AC are running and I'm on shore power are they getting power thru inverter or is there a switch that supplies 120 directly to them. 

Thanks for the help guys.

Your Inverter has a transfer switch inside which when on shore power it passes the shore power directly through the Inverter's transfer switch to the coach.

When your shore power has been removed the transfer switch inside the Inverter switches over and the Inverter is now supplying power to only devices that are driven off of the Inverter providing that your Inverter has not been turned off.

[Tom Cherry]

1 hour ago, Gospel said:

As I mention earlier I am putting a Esco ATS in Saturday and aa progressive surge protector. Is there anything I should check prior to preforming the "smoke" test i.e. plugging it in to 240/50amp plug that is alive and well. My batteries are fully charged and ready to go, slow charge all week> My generator seem to be working well. Question. When the AC are running and I'm on shore power are they getting pwr thru inverter or is there a switch that supplies 120 directly to them. 

Thanks for the help guys.

Here is the gist of what I have told and helped others doing the same.

You will need a short length of 3/4" SealTite or Flexible plastic conduit.  Probably 3 ft max. This is the run from the HW50C to the LPT50BRD.  It OBVIOUSLY goes upstream. Get two straight and two 90 Deg fitting for it....take back what you do NOT use.  You will need a short piece of Service Entrance Cable. Home Depot usually stocks it.  Lowes, sometimes. But any good electrical supply house has it. You want the kind with THREE #6 Copper and a bare, solid #10 ground.  NOW>>> That was cheaper than buying the THNN (memory) individual wires.  You CAN, since this in Conduit, run individual conductors.  Black; Red and White in #6. I personally do not see the need for a GREEN #6....the #10 is sufficient and meets code.  Price it out or whatever is most readily available.  

You will need two adapters for the HW50C, assuming they still use the large holes. Memory is 1 1/4"....maybe 1 1/2" holes.  At least they USED TO.  You will need two "reducing adapter washers"....here is a link to Lowes....again....check out the size....of the HW50C....

Sigma ProConnex 

1-1/4-in Zinc-plated Steel Reducing Washer Conduit Fittings (2-Pack)

 

You will need some #12 or so Metal Roofing Drive Screws.  These are Hex Washer with a drill point and a "fiber" washer. I used them all the time.  Remember to find a GOOD mounting point.  If yours is on the side....GREAT.  But, if you have  a fiber or carboard ceiling in the bay, you will have to do some test holes and find some metal. I actually moved mine MORE towards the center, so the cables were easy.

 

Loctite Green for the terminal screws.  Large Screwdriver and a shop rag or towel.  Two wraps will give you a good friction fit.  TIGHTEN with all your strength.  I usually PUSH DOWN with my left hand to keep the slotted screwdriver blade fully engages.  After you tighten all the screws.... I wiggle the cable and then go back over....one more wiggle....then tighten.

 

NOW. If you have real cable length issue, as you can't get the Load and the Genny Cables to work out for the single point Ground.  You will need some "Split Bolt" Copper connectors.  Read the label on how many #10 Bare Grounds will go in them.  Typically, you can get 4.  If only 3, then you will need two of them.  You split the jacket on the three ATS conductors.  Maybe 6" back. Peel or take out the bare copper ground on each. Let it dangle.  Then use a wrap or so of Duct Tape and leave about an inch of so of the original jacket sticking out.  This goes into the fittings to secure them to the conduit. You now have THREE bare Copper leads.  Depending on the size  of the split bolt, you can use FOUR....three IN and one OUT....to the ATS.  If only 3, then 2 in and the RUNNER of the one going to the next splice.  That one in and the remaining wire and the runner or the ONE to the ATS.  MOST FOLKS have never had to do this....but one person recently had, he thought, an issue, so this was the fix.  The split bolts are NEC and UL approved methods for GROUND connections.

 

Follow the instructions for each....carefully MARKING the leads on the IOTA....

 

You are on your own for snaking the HW50C remote up to a convenient place. I have a central vacuum and the sprayed foam is what I poked a hole through and ran mine up.  That was also how they got the Solar Remote controller UP.  Look at how your Inverter phone line is fed....

 

That's IT>>>  Have fun and let us know.

 

[Bill R]

On 8/12/2022 at 9:59 AM, Dr4Film said:

So, I decided to install the Progressive Industries EMS-HW-50C in front of the 41260 Transfer Switch.

Richard - I am risking showing my lack of knowledge here, but if you install the EMS before the Transfer Switch, are you running both generator and shore power through the EMS? 

On 8/12/2022 at 11:50 AM, Dr4Film said:

They are now obsolete and all that is available is the Hughes Autoformer.

https://tinyurl.com/4p4ya2db

Can you use a plug adapter and use the Autoformer on a 30/20 Amp circuit?

Edited August 13, 2022 by Bill R
Thought a little more about this.