IOTA 50-R FAILURE - intermittent shore power - SAFETY & FIRE HAZARD

[Bob Keating]

Greetings,

I changed my IOTA unit out with a WFCO T-57. As you can see from the photos, it was mounted in a tight spot with very short conduits. To further complicate things, the WFCO unit is about 1.5 inches wider than the IOTA. It took about an hour to install, with the most aggravating part being the slightly offset conduit knock outs on the replacement. It seems to be working as it should; however, I have not yet load tested it. For what it is worth, I did work in the electronics field for about 30-years. I am pretty sure I should go to confession after this repair, though.

[Idoc57]

After reading this thread, I decided that I better pull the coach out of the garage and see what kind of ATS Monaco blessed me with.  Much to my chagrin, there it was, the dreaded IOTA ITS-50R.  I pulled the plastic cover off and inspected it very carefully.  Everything looked 100% perfect and I have never had any issues with power source, either generator or shore.  So, the decision had to be made:  Live with the risk, because my IOTA looks and functions perfectly (risk is an old friend of mine - ridden motorcycles for 57 of my 65 years) or spend $205 and a little of my time replacing the IOTA with a new ESCO-LPT50BRD.  Spent very little time deliberating on this one.  New ESCO is mounted and all is good.  I did have to change the order of the shore power, generator and coach power panel leads, but it wasn't too bad.   Fortunately, I had enough ground wire in each lead to make it to the ground lug block.  L1 (black), L2 (red) and Neutral (white) were all plenty long enough.  I did cut off the ends that were already crimped in the old lugs so that I would have "fresh, virgin" copper strands in each of the new connections.

 

Carey

[Ted Carbonaro]

TED,

Merging this topic with the ongoing one on IOTA.  Iit has a wealth of information.  Please review the posts.  Did not notice. This was a new topic.  Please use the search function as it is invaluable for information.

Another case of don't know what I don't know. After 8 months of ownership of our 06 Camelot and being a first time Monaco owner, I've just discovered that I have a IOTA ITS-50R. And after reading a previous posting and thread, I now know there was a recall and I'm in a risky situation as a full timer running this unit. So I have multiple questions. I see that the Esco LPT50BRD seems to be the recommended preference of many. Question #1; Is that still the case? Or is there something else I should consider, possibly with built in surge protector? Question #2; How easy is the change over? I'm very good and comfortable mechanically, but not  very knowledgeable with electricity. See photos of service bay. 

Second situation; I have a brand new RH54331 Shoreline cord reel that I also want to replace now. (the existing one no longer retracts) Question; Has anyone replaced theirs on a 06 Camelot or similar, that can give me any tips or suggestions? I know that I access it through an access panel in the bottom of a two drawer bureau in the closet. I see the two electrical junction boxes in the engine bay. It would appear the biggest challenge may be the tight access through the closet.

Any and all tips, suggestions and experience welcome. Thanks! 

Ted C.

[Rikadoo]

WoW just got to lookin at your electrical bay😳 is that the water pump in the same space😳

[RNMCBR]

Hey Ted,

Yes, that’s still the most popular model. You should have no problem. Depending on your mounting though, you may need a slightly longer section of cable between your cord reel and transfer switch. I was able to reuse my old one but mine are mounted in the left rear compartment. 
Roy

[Ted Carbonaro]

1 hour ago, Rikadoo said:

WoW just got to lookin at your electrical bay😳 is that the water pump in the same space😳

It is! Who at Monaco would have thought that was a good idea??? I hadn't thought about it before, but it seems like a possible recipe for disaster. In the 8 months of ownership, I've only recently been in that bay to replace the waterpump. 

[Tom Cherry]

1 hour ago, Ted Carbonaro said:

Another case of don't know what I don't know. After 8 months of ownership of our 06 Camelot and being a first time Monaco owner, I've just discovered that I have a IOTA ITS-50R. And after reading a previous posting and thread, I now know there was a recall and I'm in a risky situation as a full timer running this unit. So I have multiple questions. I see that the Esco LPT50BRD seems to be the recommended preference of many. Question #1; Is that still the case? Or is there something else I should consider, possibly with built in surge protector? Question #2; How easy is the change over? I'm very good and comfortable mechanically, but not  very knowledgeable with electricity. See photos of service bay. 

Second situation; I have a brand new RH54331 Shoreline cord reel that I also want to replace now. (the existing one no longer retracts) Question; Has anyone replaced theirs on a 06 Camelot or similar, that can give me any tips or suggestions? I know that I access it through an access panel in the bottom of a two drawer bureau in the closet. I see the two electrical junction boxes in the engine bay. It would appear the biggest challenge may be the tight access through the closet.

Any and all tips, suggestions and experience welcome. Thanks! 

Ted C.

My recommendation.  Change it out to the ESCO LPT50BRD.  Use the Green Loctite 290.  If you want voltage and surge suppression, install the Progressive HW50C on the INCOMING line from the cord reel.  It goes BEFORE the ATS ATS, not after….otherwise you risk overloading it as the 8KW generator is not a 240 unit.  It is a 120 VAC and your neutral will carry up to 70 Amps and that is too high for Progressive.  Installing it upstream also protects the ATS.  In a 240 VAC 50A pedestal, the neutral is the difference in the loads on line 1 and line 2 as the legs are “out of phase”.  If both line 1 and line 2 are 120 and there is not 240 between them, then the current is addd.  So your Genny breaker of 35 can put up to 70 amps if you overload….and some have.

From the picture, my first impression is that you will need to move the ATS to the RIGHT.  The Magnum AGS is there and will be easy to relocate to the right as you have ample cord.  If you install the HW50C, you put it HIGH on the left and then have more flexibility for the Line (going to the main panel) and the Genny. I wrote several posts on this and what you need.  Really simple,  as long as you can label cables and use a razor knife to strip wires and have a good screwdriver and the Loctite ….you are cool.  The good think, the back wall seems Rigid and you don’t have to find metal for mounting like I did,  mine was on the ceiling. You COULD, I think, put the HW50C up there….then have an abundance of room for the new ATS slightly to the right.

read this thread and also do a search for IOTA. I know I have posted the instructions for the additional piece of short cable and the hole adapters many times.

Good Luck

1 hour ago, Ted Carbonaro said:

Another case of don't know what I don't know. After 8 months of ownership of our 06 Camelot and being a first time Monaco owner, I've just discovered that I have a IOTA ITS-50R. And after reading a previous posting and thread, I now know there was a recall and I'm in a risky situation as a full timer running this unit. So I have multiple questions. I see that the Esco LPT50BRD seems to be the recommended preference of many. Question #1; Is that still the case? Or is there something else I should consider, possibly with built in surge protector? Question #2; How easy is the change over? I'm very good and comfortable mechanically, but not  very knowledgeable with electricity. See photos of service bay. 

Second situation; I have a brand new RH54331 Shoreline cord reel that I also want to replace now. (the existing one no longer retracts) Question; Has anyone replaced theirs on a 06 Camelot or similar, that can give me any tips or suggestions? I know that I access it through an access panel in the bottom of a two drawer bureau in the closet. I see the two electrical junction boxes in the engine bay. It would appear the biggest challenge may be the tight access through the closet.

Any and all tips, suggestions and experience welcome. Thanks! 

Ted C.

CORD REEL.

Just looked at my rig…we’re In it.  I have a “cover” in the right (Road side)  rear corner of my bedroom closet…which is on the rear.  That cover lifts off….not screwed down.  The cord reel, on MINE, is there.  I also did some PM a few years back.  There is a Junction Box that Is located in the engine compartment on the Road Side.  It is about even with the cross bar that runs from side to side.  You have to disconnect the flexible air intake hose from the air filter. It is behind it. The leads from MY reel go to the Junction box. There is a terminal strip in there with the main cable that goes to the ATS.  I was able to take off the cover and tighten the terminals.

Yours may not be that way, but that is what I found on my 2009.

Good Luck

[Tom Cherry]

1 hour ago, Ted Carbonaro said:

It is! Who at Monaco would have thought that was a good idea??? I hadn't thought about it before, but it seems like a possible recipe for disaster. In the 8 months of ownership, I've only recently been in that bay to replace the waterpump. 

TED.  I edited and merged your post.  This gives you way more input.  Scroll back and read and all the info on your IOTA and change out will be clear,  

Sorry. I did not pickup this was a new thread for an ongoing issue that we Moderators merged a while back.

Good luck.

[Ted Carbonaro]

3 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

TED.  I edited and merged your post.  This gives you way more input.  Scroll back and read and all the info on your IOTA and change out will be clear,  

Sorry. I did not pickup this was a new thread for an ongoing issue that we Moderators merged a while back.

Good luck.

Thanks for your help Tom!

[Ted Carbonaro]

4 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

My recommendation.  Change it out to the ESCO LPT50BRD.  Use the Green Loctite 290.  If you want voltage and surge suppression, install the Progressive HW50C on the INCOMING line from the cord reel.  It goes BEFORE the ATS ATS, not after….otherwise you risk overloading it as the 8KW generator is not a 240 unit.  It is a 120 VAC and your neutral will carry up to 70 Amps and that is too high for Progressive.  Installing it upstream also protects the ATS.  In a 240 VAC 50A pedestal, the neutral is the difference in the loads on line 1 and line 2 as the legs are “out of phase”.  If both line 1 and line 2 are 120 and there is not 240 between them, then the current is addd.  So your Genny breaker of 35 can put up to 70 amps if you overload….and some have.

From the picture, my first impression is that you will need to move the ATS to the RIGHT.  The Magnum AGS is there and will be easy to relocate to the right as you have ample cord.  If you install the HW50C, you put it HIGH on the left and then have more flexibility for the Line (going to the main panel) and the Genny. I wrote several posts on this and what you need.  Really simple,  as long as you can label cables and use a razor knife to strip wires and have a good screwdriver and the Loctite ….you are cool.  The good think, the back wall seems Rigid and you don’t have to find metal for mounting like I did,  mine was on the ceiling. You COULD, I think, put the HW50C up there….then have an abundance of room for the new ATS slightly to the right.

read this thread and also do a search for IOTA. I know I have posted the instructions for the additional piece of short cable and the hole adapters many times.

Good Luck

CORD REEL.

Just looked at my rig…we’re In it.  I have a “cover” in the right (Road side)  rear corner of my bedroom closet…which is on the rear.  That cover lifts off….not screwed down.  The cord reel, on MINE, is there.  I also did some PM a few years back.  There is a Junction Box that Is located in the engine compartment on the Road Side.  It is about even with the cross bar that runs from side to side.  You have to disconnect the flexible air intake hose from the air filter. It is behind it. The leads from MY reel go to the Junction box. There is a terminal strip in there with the main cable that goes to the ATS.  I was able to take off the cover and tighten the terminals.

Yours may not be that way, but that is what I found on my 2009.

Good Luck

Thanks Tom. Yes I have the junction box same as you. I popped the cover and was surprised to find the wires presumably twisted together under the electrical tape and hopefully wire nuts. 

[Chuck B 2004 Windsor]

As far as a cord reel is concerned, most folks pull the cable All The Way Out when using the cord reel.  As time passes the contacts in that position get dirty.  My advice is to pull the cord all the way out and then retract the cord reel a half a turn to provide a new area on the reel.  

[Ted Carbonaro]

Thanks for the suggestion Chuck. 

[Chuck B 2004 Windsor]

1 hour ago, Ted Carbonaro said:

Thanks for the suggestion Chuck. 

As far as a cord reel is concerned, most folks pull the cable All The Way Out when using the cord reel.  As time passes the contacts in that position get dirty.  My advice is to pull the cord all the way out and then retract the cord reel a half a turn to provide a new area on the reel.  

Thank you Ted.  You are one of the few who will reply with a thanks for help or suggestions on this group.

[Tom Cherry]

4 hours ago, Chuck B 2004 Windsor said:

As far as a cord reel is concerned, most folks pull the cable All The Way Out when using the cord reel.  As time passes the contacts in that position get dirty.  My advice is to pull the cord all the way out and then retract the cord reel a half a turn to provide a new area on the reel.  

Thank you Ted.  You are one of the few who will reply with a thanks for help or suggestions on this group.

Chuck is spot on.  I never pull mine out all the way.  I try to randomize where it starts.  That way there is not a constant contact point.  Chuck helped a friend many years ago with the same MH that I have.  He was full timing and  needed almost the full cord so, he had it out all the way.  Chuck advised him to cycle the reel several times to Polish or burnish and get the burned areas buffed down and clean. That worked like a charm.  He eventually got a short extension and then every month or so would cycle the reel and hit a new spot.

I am very particular about random selection or pulling it out and not fully extended.

[marcbachman]

I want to say thanks to all of you, and attached are images of my finished work. I had corrective surgery on my left hand and am now at the campgrounds ( Citizen Potawatomie Nation at Shawnee OK ) ready to turn in. Now when I plug in I hear the audible latching sound.

[Richard Tree]

Used, but clean ITS-50R  for anyone who wants spare.   Had no issues,  checked connections with the regular maint. schedule on coach.  Always fuctional and was on a 2005 Neptune.  Replaced with the Progressive Dynamics PD52V and the EMS-HW50C.    Free with your paid shipping via USPS.  

Moderator’s edit and copy and paste from a subsequent post by Richard 
Fine.  Trash it

 

 

 

Edited May 25, 2023 by Tom Cherry
Unit withdrawn due to safety concerns

[jacwjames]

On 5/23/2023 at 8:46 PM, Richard Tree said:

Used, but clean ITS-50R  for anyone who wants spare.   Had no issues,  checked connections with the regular maint. schedule on coach.  Always fuctional and was on a 2005 Neptune.  Replaced with the Progressive Dynamics PD52V and the EMS-HW50C.    Free with your paid shipping via USPS

 

A warning though is that this is the transfer switch that was part of recall due to fire hazard. 

Use at your own risk

[Frank Bergamo]

Why would you offer this when you know it is a fire hazard. It belongs in the trash, period!

[cbr046]

Based on what I've read I wouldn't use it as a permanent replacement. 

I could see it as a spare to use while waiting for a reliable switch to arrive. 

- bob

 

[Chuck B 2004 Windsor]

What happens if it falls into the hands of someone who is NOT knowledgeable, they install it and it burns their coach down?  Chuck B 2004 Windsor

[Tom Cherry]

On 5/23/2023 at 8:46 PM, Richard Tree said:

Used, but clean ITS-50R  for anyone who wants spare.   Had no issues,  checked connections with the regular maint. schedule on coach.  Always fuctional and was on a 2005 Neptune.  Replaced with the Progressive Dynamics PD52V and the EMS-HW50C.    Free with your paid shipping via USPS.

Hope you have a very large, in the millions, personal liability umbrella policy.  This switch is a personal life safety threat.  Under no way should it be used.  If you give it away, as stated, an attorney would advise you to get an iron clad waiver….not to mention the personal remorse for allowing someone to use it….knowing what is at risk. 

[Ted Carbonaro]

Mine was operating perfectly when I removed it. It went straight into the trash! 

[Richard Tree]

Fine.  Trash it is.

 

 

[Tom Cherry]

1 minute ago, Richard Tree said:

Fine.  Trash it is.

 

 

Thanks.  

[marcbachman]

On 8/14/2022 at 12:05 PM, Land Lubber said:

I recently replaced the Iota transfer switch in the '09 Monaco Camelot we bought 2 years ago. I had read about the fire issues so I had it replaced. The service manager at our local shop questioned me on why I wanted to replace it. I explained to him the issues but apparently he was not up to date on these transfer switches. After inspecting it though he noted some burn spots on the connections. I replaced the Iota with a Surge Guard 41260.

We have gone on a dozen or so HRRVC outings with no latching issues, I think I can call the aforementioned transfer switch a fix. I also don't see evidence of arcing inside the switch, although I wonder if I should have used a contact paste. And, I wonder if there is a definitive test to check function on my Magnum inverter. Can they be disassembled inside the bay to inspect and/or test resistance on critical components? And yes, I know to unplug from all power sources first (unless there is a post of interest that identifies an actual procedure for inverter testing).