Which Res Refer for Norcold with Furnace under it.. 2005 Endeavor/Diplomat

[Will52]

Has anyone replaced a Norcold 1200 and gotten it out the curb side window? Going to a Samsung RF12 in the same window 2005 Holiday Rambler Endeavor Looking for Idea's THX ALL.

[Rocketman3]

We got our Fisher & Paykel in through the front door. Removed drivers and passenger seats, took off door closer. Removed the doors on the fridge. Barely fit. 
 

we got the old NeverCold 1200 out with the help of a sawzall. Once it was in 2 pieces it went out real easy!

[Martinvz]

Got my 1200 out the door and I do not have a front door. Did not need ro remove a window. It was a really tight squeeze.

[Doug and Nicki]

in our 2008 Dynasty, Creative Coach Interiors in Columbus, Ohio removed ours through the driver side window beside the driver seat. They removed the seat and window and used that opening for the two refrigerators.

[Old Dog]

I got mine in/out the front door. Pulled the doors off the old and new units, covered everything in the entry way with heavy cardboard and 2 of us went straight in/out, set it on the top of the driver/passenger seat then slid it aft. Didn't do anything to the coach. Had a little less then a inch of clearance. Not all that heavy, just bulky and few places to get a hold of it. Out is much easier then in since you're going with gravity. Believe it or not, it can be done.

[TomV48]

Well my old 1200 went out and the new one a  1210 came in.  Passenger seat out.  Frig doors off and I'm thinking coach door may have come off.  Not a scratch on anything.   I only  regret that I had to work and couldn't stay to watch them do it.

4 hours ago, Rocketman3 said:

We got our Fisher & Paykel in through the front door. Removed drivers and passenger seats, took off door closer. Removed the doors on the fridge. Barely fit. 
 

we got the old NeverCold 1200 out with the help of a sawzall. Once it was in 2 pieces it went out real easy!

That's about what they did to change mine.  Absent the sawzall.

[Dr4Film]

The NotSoCold went out the curbside salon window and the Samsung RF197 came in through the same window.

Easy Peasey!

[Tom Cherry]

7 hours ago, TomV48 said:

Well my old 1200 went out and the new one a  1210 came in.  Passenger seat out.  Frig doors off and I'm thinking coach door may have come off.  Not a scratch on anything.   I only  regret that I had to work and couldn't stay to watch them do it.

That's about what they did to change mine.  Absent the sawzall.

Comments from the past 10 plus years where getting in and out a refrigerator was discussed ad infinitum.  Some folks have used the 3 men and a boy manhandle it out the front door.  Many were very careful and put furniture pads on the dash and removed the passenger seat, rather that pop out a window. Many accomplished it with some huskies and finesse…. BUT we have had a few tales of frustration and getting it stuck making the turn and then “brute force coupled with stupidity” was the solution.  Dashes ruined or damaged as well as other interior damage.  

Taking off the entry door can lead (see some threads on adjusting and such) to major realignment issues….probably not any damage to the air seals, but they would be at risk.  There are no known source for the air seal.  One could rent a small fork lift for a day and spend less that restoration of a dash.

BUT…many savvy folks have done it.  Just be careful and PAD (taped in place).  The usual method is removal of a window….which is child’s play compared the skill set needed to properly install a Res Refer in place of a gas unit or change brands….

 

[jacwjames]

I had read of people being able to get the old Norcold out and a new residential in via the front door so when I tried it didn't work.  I took the scissor mechanism off so I could fully open the door and removed the front seat which was a real effort.  The old Norcold went out easy since I gook the doors and cooling unit off.  Took the doors off the Samsung and tried to bring it in the front door NOPE, NADA, Ain't going to happen.  I did end up putting a nick in the front dash upholstery.  

Finally just removed the salon window above the dining table and slide it in there, should have done that in the first place.  

The windows are not hard to take out, I've had 5 windows out so far.  On my coach Monaco used a compression type rubber seal that was stuck to the window frame.  There was a small bead of caulk/silicone around the window that had to be cut/removed with a plastic scraper.  Then just got under the lip of the window and pried it out.  I leave the inner ring loosely attached so as not to let the window fall and then when it's completely loose remove the couple screws on the inside and the window comes right out.  Put the window back in reverse order but I used the Geocel to caulk around the window. for the waterproof seal.

Edited December 7, 2022 by jacwjames

[Chad A]

Took mine out the front door and it was not that big of a problem. Took out front seat, took off scissor for front door. Took off doors on Norcold and the Samsung. My son and I did it with a hand dolley. 1/2 day job from start to finish, including taking out the drawer, making a new pedestal and plumbing changes. 

[hex_nut]

I cannot find anything on a Samsung model RF12.  Was that a typo?

[Tom Cherry]

3 hours ago, hex_nut said:

I cannot find anything on a Samsung model RF12.  Was that a typo?

Maybe or not.  There is a Sun Frost RF12 that’s 10 CF….BUT no Samsung….could have meant the RF17 that is or was the current model.  That is what I bought in 2017.  Love it.  Just insulate the upper and lower vents as it, like all current “NOT ALL WEATHER ANYMORE” Energy Star Refers don’t like their backsides exposed to barely freezing temps.  I DID learn that the hard way.  Once insulated the covers and the louvers in the frame, it has performed flawlessly.

[Will52]

20 hours ago, Will52 said:

Has anyone replaced a Norcold 1200 and gotten it out the curb side window? Going to a Samsung RF12 in the same window 2005 Holiday Rambler Endeavor Looking for Idea's THX ALL.

Now RV guy say's won't come outside window and the Samsung won't work cause Furnace is under fridge this really stressing us out.  I need a break. Thanks for all the help. Will.

[Tom Cherry]

28 minutes ago, Will52 said:

Now RV guy say's won't come outside window and the Samsung won't work cause Furnace is under fridge this really stressing us out.  I need a break. Thanks for all the help. Will.

OK....this may be a bit contorted as I did a lot of searches.  Your issue is that the Furnace is in the way.  Some folks, I THINK, have been creative and worked around that.  I do NOT know if they abandoned the furnace or NOT.  Our Webmaster/Administrator has a similar rig to yours.  It is one year different and is a Monaco Diplomat....but I THINK....they are twins. 

@Scotty Hutto is his name.  You can search for him if the link doesn't get there.  I would PM him and then maybe talk to him.  He got the Samsung RF 17 into his MH. 

Next up.  I changed the title to see if some folks will respond.  Your original is now not the problem.  I think you will get some help....lots of good knowledgeable folks here.

Here is a File that goes into a lot of detail.  Many of us have done this.  Some almost on the fly and others almost a lifetime project.  That is NO disrespect.  I measured the feces out of mine and KNEW it would fit.  It DID, but I failed to take into account the Door Swing and my "unusual countertop".  BUT it works.  Bottom line, AJ Madison (Google them) is the best source for finding "non standard" or perhaps oddball sizes.  There is an article about installing a smaller RF (Samsung) that would or MAYBE....FIT on top of the furnace.  BUT, it will be shorter, I suspect, so there is going to be some cabinetry or other work to be done....

READ THIS FILE.... It is detailed....and the contents is great.  Maybe tedious....but again, folks HAVE worked around this and made it possible.

Many folks have purchased different brands.  Problem is....my memory.  Fischel and Payne (SP?) come to mind.  Again, if you go to AJ Madison, then you can get the specifics and look at their dimensions and see what OTHER brands might fit.  You need, if I recall correctly, to focus on the "Counter Depth" models.  I think that is what the Samsung is....so if you use A J Madison and start there, you will be surprised.

I STILL think that someone has a simple (OK....that word has different meanings) solution and I have scanned or read about it.

Good Luck....

 

[TomV48]

1 hour ago, Will52 said:

Now RV guy say's won't come outside window and the Samsung won't work cause Furnace is under fridge this really stressing us out.  I need a break. Thanks for all the help. Will.

You may want to look at this post and his whole series of posts on upgrades by Mike Hughes.  I have been in his coach and his work is of course beyond beautiful.  I cannot remember if he told me his heater was under the Frig but there was a problem that he overcame with a thin shelf or heavy gauge metal for the new frig to rest upon.  If you email him he may be able to help you out.  He IS MONACOWATTS (sales@monacowatts.com will probably get him) and he is a genius of the Eight (and probably ten) air bag suspension too.

https://www.monacoers.org/topic/606-modernizing-my-2008-safari-cheetah/#comments

[Steven P]

 @Scotty Huttoand I both have 2006 Diplomats which are the first year w a higher ceiling I believe.  We have a furnace below our fridges and had room by lowering the platform.  The furnace specs require minimum clearance above them for us. I studied my clearance before I purchased my fridge.  Use the Ajmadison.com website.  You can do this. 

[hex_nut]

Take a look at the Fisher Paykel RF17 series.  It is a couple of inches shorter than the Samsung RF18 and may fit with less modifications.  As noted above, AJMadison is a good place to check dimensions.

[Rocketman3]

I have a 2000 Dynasty (with furnace under and low ceilings).

Here is what I did…

Fisher and Paykel Fridge - (got it through Best Buy)

i needed to lower the base a few inches. 
 

My furnace was sitting on a 2x4 - so 3-1/2” off the floor. In reading the furnace specs it needed some height above (I have forgotten the exact specs), but it was fine to be right on the floor. So I pulled out the old fridge - took out the old fridge floor, dropped the furnace down to the floor. The exhaust and intake holes I needed to adjust. I just moved the exhaust into the intake hole, and drilled a new intake hole with a hole saw. Used the plugs, and plugged and siliconed the upper hole closed. I made an aluminum exterior plate to cover the old holes and new holes. 
 

Reinstalled the same 3/4 plywood base and I had the room needed for the height. After getting done, if I used metal for the fridge to sit on I could have gotten another inch. (But I didn’t need it).

It can be done! And you will LOVE it when it’s done. 

Edited December 8, 2022 by Rocketman3

[jacwjames]

I installed a Samsung RF18 in my 2002 Windsor which has the lower ceiling and furnace underneath.  My furnace was sitting on a wood block with a piece of plywood underneath, it added 1 5/8" of height.  I had to get all the height I could, I ended up making two separate supports using heavy conduit strut material.   If you lower the furnace you have to cut new holes for the intake and exhaust, probably the most intimidating part of the project.

If your not inclined to go through all that there are two door refrigerators that will fit in the opening that will provide about as much cu ft as the Norcold. 

[Martinvz]

The RF18 was tooooo high to fit in above the furnace. We decided to install the HiSense single door with bottom fridge, 17 cub ft with icemaker. We knew the door swing would be a challenge but the dw assured me it would not be a problem, so we made it a left hand hinge. It was still a problem and hit the smoke alarm on the ceiling(small problem and is now relocated). Purchased from Lowes.

We would have liked a RF18 or Heier but both would not fit without extensive surgery. So far, very happy withe the HiSense. 
 

Then added a separate psw inverter.

[Scotty Hutto]

Yes, it can be done.  As @Steven P mentions above, the key is reducing the height of the floor the fridge sits to to the 1” minimum clearance required by the furnace manufacturer. Here is the link the the very detailed instructions @Bob Nodine put together.

There is a difference in ceiling height between 2005 & 2006, but my understanding is it will still be workable, you just have to lower the floor as much as possible, and you won’t have as much clearance at the top  

Hope this helps. 
 

 

[Will52]

   UPDATE...We could not find anyone that would do conversion on site (RV Park) So we did the Dutch Aire and went 12 Volts with dual compressors and fans. Currently nice and cold and frozen solid in the freezer. Customer service with JC refrigeration was excellent!

[Guest Al redcay]

On 12/7/2022 at 12:43 PM, hex_nut said:

I cannot find anything on a Samsung model RF12.  Was that a typo?

I just found a Frigidaire at Home Depot fit in front door 17.6 cu ft model frfg1723av / 31.5 w x 67.9 h / 31 deep doors off 25.1 wide fit in front door in a 2005 Monaco 

[Tom Cherry]

@Al redcay 

you just posted a new topic called Big Daddy regarding this current topic.  Here is the text….

Put residential fridge in 2005 Monaco , question I can see lite from opening in back do I need to put some insulation on the sides

  That new topic has been hidden.  In answer to the question above, and it is a good question and been discussed frequently.

There are several standard practices for installing a res refer where a gas unit was.

FIRST….Remove all insulation that may be attached to the side walls.  The gas refrigerator had HEAT.  The insulation was to keep that, and fumes, out of the living area.  You need air circulation around all sides of a Res Refer….like you have at home.  Sometimes the fit is so close folks have to put a fan in the rear.  Typically if you have an inch or so on each side…you are fine.  Do NOT make a surround or a frame and get it so tight and “nice looking”.  Folks have done that or had auto upholstery shops make them and had overheating and failures.

SECOND…The lower access panel on the outside or vent cover needs to be insulated.  The new energy efficient Res Refers, unless you buy a special “all weather” will shut down near or at freezing.  I know….they do.  There are pictures in some of the topics of insulating them.  If there are louvers in the frame, they have to be insulated.  Same for a top access cover. If you have a roof vent on the gas, take it off and stuff pink house insulation in there.  That is a source of cold air…as, after the Res Refrigerator is installed, a vent to the outside that will let your conditioned air escape.

THIRD…. NEVER drill into the sides for a brace or bracket to secure the Res Refrigerator.  Aluminum or SS brackets should be attached using 3M VHB clear double stick.  Amazon has it.  The auto parts stores sell “body emblem” tape.  It is only 75% as strong as the 3M VHB clear (used for name panels on office doors).  Some office supply stores have it locally.

FOURTH. read up on the various method of “locking” the doors.  Do a search using refrigerator and select topics.  Many topics and good info in past discussions.

Good Luck,  let know how it works…

[Guest Al redcay]

Thanks for info on the insulation, an to firm up top & sides I bought air bags you pump up to keep fridge from moving an put screws in back. I also bought a kit to hold door closed. My main question was about the insulation part.