Intellitec Support - CPU and Keypad backups and restores

[Georgia Mike]

Yes we were the second ones to look at it that day. We have the same year and model but yours has 5 bay doors on the passenger side between the wheels and we have 4 doors. Ours has Aqua hot or is it something else that would make it different just curious.

[Dr4Film]

You have two large storage slides exactly like what my Windsor has however our Dynasty has 3 different size storage bays with slides. We also have an Aqua-Hot which is in the last bay on the passenger side to the rear. The very first bay is obviously the diesel fuel and LPG tank bay.

[DavidL]

Paul, Tried to send you a Private Message...says you aren't setup for that.  Intentional or haven't gotten to that yet?

Interested in working with you on Intellitec modernization.

 

David

[pwhittle]

My Inbox was full. Cleared out now.

I sent you a PM.

Paul

[goodtimz]

Paul,

Hello.  I have been reading your post about backing up the CPU and switches in the Intellitec systems like I have in my 09 Monaco Dynasty Regal IV.  I have gotten all electronic bugs worked out of my coach.  And I would like to get a backup of my CPU to help me sleep at night.  Can you let me know options you offer for me to do this myself?  I am in Kansas and don't see myself coming to you or going to M&M this summer.  I think it would be best if I can do the backup myself with some guidance from an expert.

EDIT…if you use the following, then Paul should get an email alerting him to the post,  I don’t know if an edit wil work

@pwhittle

Thank you for your help.

Trae Jones

[Tom Cherry]

1 hour ago, goodtimz said:

Paul,

Hello.  I have been reading your post about backing up the CPU and switches in the Intellitec systems like I have in my 09 Monaco Dynasty Regal IV.  I have gotten all electronic bugs worked out of my coach.  And I would like to get a backup of my CPU to help me sleep at night.  Can you let me know options you offer for me to do this myself?  I am in Kansas and don't see myself coming to you or going to M&M this summer.  I think it would be best if I can do the backup myself with some guidance from an expert.

 

Thank you for your help.

Trae Jones

Moderato’s comment.  If you add @pwhittle…you use the “@“ ans then type their screen name.  There is a drop down of members and you just select the one you want,  I edited your or post, but don’t know if it will alert Paul,  

By doing so in this post, he will get a separems8l.

Good luck,  and you are wise to get the CPU and the Switch Pads backed uo.

ALTHOUGH…. if I understand Frank McElroy correctly, your 2009 CPU program is the same one used for all 2009 Dynasty and up to Signature….as well as the Imperial and Navigator,  So, one, with the right computer and program can “copy” the program from another rig that year and it should work.  

Your switch pads can be programmed, with the right software, from the prints and the chart for the outputs of them,  maybe 5 or 6.  The code is simple…l

BUT, getting a backup of YOUR CPU and each Switch Pad is the foolproof way…
 

[Frank McElroy]

1 hour ago, Tom Cherry said:

Moderato’s comment.  If you add @pwhittle…you use the “@“ ans then type their screen name.  There is a drop down of members and you just select the one you want,  I edited your or post, but don’t know if it will alert Paul,  

By doing so in this post, he will get a separems8l.

Good luck,  and you are wise to get the CPU and the Switch Pads backed uo.

ALTHOUGH…. if I understand Frank McElroy correctly, your 2009 CPU program is the same one used for all 2009 Dynasty and up to Signature….as well as the Imperial and Navigator,  So, one, with the right computer and program can “copy” the program from another rig that year and it should work.  

Your switch pads can be programmed, with the right software, from the prints and the chart for the outputs of them,  maybe 5 or 6.  The code is simple…l

BUT, getting a backup of YOUR CPU and each Switch Pad is the foolproof way…
 

I can't say if the 2008 Intellitec software used on my coach is the same as what was used in 2009 but a comparison of the wiring diagrams would sort that out by comparing at the keypad codes between 2008 and 2009 model years.

As for the Intellitec software to read the program on the Intellitec PMC CPU and the key pads, if you Google you will find a zip file of the PMCII software that you can download.  The issue is that to make this software work, you'd need the interface modules between the computer and the Intellitec CPU and keypads.  As far as I know, Paul Whittle and I are the only group members who have these interface modules.

[pwhittle]

Hi Trae,

By the time I put a kit together and be ready to support owners, it was more costly that the individual owner exposure.

I did help one owner whose CPU was damaged by water intrusion. It was a 2006 Signature, and I had a backup from another 2006 Signature that I was able to program into a replacement CPU and bring his motorhome back to life.

I do have backups from a 2009 Navigator and a 2009 Signature, so likely we could recreate yours.

A couple of other options:

If we are ever together, I will make you a backup. I am in the Woodstock, GA area.

if you wanted to take out the controller and send it to me, I’ll make a backup and send it back to you.

Paul Whittle.

 

[windsorbill06]

@pwhittle  I'd be interested in learning about  backing up my system as well.  Tried a PM, but looks like your box is full again.

[pwhittle]

Hi Bill.

I cleared out my inbox, so PM's should be available again.

Windsors typically have a system without a CPU to backup. The Intellitec functions are often limited to controlling lights and fans, and they just use switch settings to set the address on the output modules and program the switch panels to the same addresses and outputs. The Multiplex bus master signal can come from the power shedding module, or a separate Bus master Module.

Paul

[Dave16131]

Please put me on the list. Thank you!

Dave

[Tom Cherry]

On 4/18/2023 at 11:07 AM, pwhittle said:

Hi Bill.

I cleared out my inbox, so PM's should be available again.

Windsors typically have a system without a CPU to backup. The Intellitec functions are often limited to controlling lights and fans, and they just use switch settings to set the address on the output modules and program the switch panels to the same addresses and outputs. The Multiplex bus master signal can come from the power shedding module, or a separate Bus master Module.

Paul

Paul is the expert on the software and such.  I have learned as well as been moderating for many years and I have one of the hybrid systems.  Basically, the 2006 was the first year that had the multiplexed lighting, fan control and pump control (may NOT have all of them, but they morphed later on into that).  

They key pads are what need to be copied.  

In the early 2006, the Intellitec 750 (?) EMS was "tapped into" and there was a "clock" (M&M RV Electronics...the Tech Support for Intellitec....called it a CLOCK) so that interfaced with the key pads and the 3 Intellitec Modules.  Later on, maybe 2008, Monaco added an IPX module and those MPX systems used that and were not connected to the EMS).

It has taken me a few years to piece all this together along with pouring over many prints. 

The way the Windsor, for Bill's information, is connected is probably through the Intellitec EMS, so it the system gets "FUNKY", rebooting (that is described in many topics) the EMS will resolve the "Clock" or interface signal issues.  There is NO backing up of the EMS or the IPX module.  They are standalone.  The key is to back up the key pads....but there should be a legend of the Intellitec Modules and the circuits and Frank McElroy says you can reprogram a key pad based on that.  

BUT, mine, which is a hybrid with an IPX, has a backup for the keypads.  MUCH easier than trying to recreate the program for a keypad...

[Frank McElroy]

43 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:

Paul is the expert on the software and such.  I have learned as well as been moderating for many years and I have one of the hybrid systems.  Basically, the 2006 was the first year that had the multiplexed lighting, fan control and pump control (may NOT have all of them, but they morphed later on into that).  

They key pads are what need to be copied.  

In the early 2006, the Intellitec 750 (?) EMS was "tapped into" and there was a "clock" (M&M RV Electronics...the Tech Support for Intellitec....called it a CLOCK) so that interfaced with the key pads and the 3 Intellitec Modules.  Later on, maybe 2008, Monaco added an IPX module and those MPX systems used that and were not connected to the EMS).

It has taken me a few years to piece all this together along with pouring over many prints. 

The way the Windsor, for Bill's information, is connected is probably through the Intellitec EMS, so it the system gets "FUNKY", rebooting (that is described in many topics) the EMS will resolve the "Clock" or interface signal issues.  There is NO backing up of the EMS or the IPX module.  They are standalone.  The key is to back up the key pads....but there should be a legend of the Intellitec Modules and the circuits and Frank McElroy says you can reprogram a key pad based on that.  

BUT, mine, which is a hybrid with an IPX, has a backup for the keypads.  MUCH easier than trying to recreate the program for a keypad...

Although a backup code file for each keypad module is nice to have, recreating keypad codes is not very complicated.  The schematics on my coach actually lists the codes.  Tom, on yours, the codes are also shown in the schematics.  Even if you didn't have a schematic, the keypad code would be a matter of matching up the label on the keypad with the label on the Intellitec module.  The keypad code is the Intellitec module letter followed by the wire number position.

Where things get complicated is on Dynasty and above with the Intellitec PMC-CPU module.  This module has a computer program with some key codes being virtual modules with software logic.  For example, the slide out code start with the letter N.  This is a virtual code that will check to be sure the ignition is off before sending a signal to start the hydraulic pump and open the solenoid valve to open the slide.  However, the program is set to pull slides in with the ignition on or off. 

Although it's important to have a saved copy of your PMC-CPU program, between Paul and myself, we likely would have a backup that would be a very close of not a perfect replacement should your CPU fail.  Minor tweaking to a replacement code might be needed to get back to 100% if a key code didn't work.

[Bill R]

@windsorbill06 Hi Bill, here is a post I did on finding and noting the multiplex switch codes on the Windsor.  Pretty straight forward hopefully.  Now having to program a switch pad will require the help of @pwhittle or @Frank McElroy who have the hardware and software to do this.  But the codes are easy to determine and document.  Knowing the codes allows you to actually program any switch pad button to any switched device on the Multiplex system.  But that again would require Frank and Paul's help.

So for example you could have a button on the switch pad in the bedroom turn on the toilet room light.  But of course you would have to eliminate one of the other button switches in the bedroom panel currently.

 

Edited April 21, 2023 by Bill R

[rvingstuff]

On 4/27/2021 at 2:39 PM, pwhittle said:

Hi All,

I see a lot of people on this and other forums that are not having an easy time getting support for their Intellitec questions and issues.

Along with others on this forum, I have gained a pretty good understanding of how the Intellitec system works on our 2005 Monaco Signature and how to backup and restore the main CPU and the keypads.

I reached out to Intellitec about becoming an official Intellitec reseller, and they welcomed me! I can now order direct from Intellitec for any Intellitec parts that you may need.

One of the important things that all owners with Intellitec Multiplex systems should do is to make a backup of their main CPU as well as each of their keypads. If the main CPU or a keypad develops a fault, you want to have the data to program a replacement. If you do not, it becomes significantly more difficult, time consuming, and costly.

I am in the process of assembling kits that will contain the Intellitec programming adapter that works for the CPU and the keypads, a USB drive with the necessary software and to store your backups on, an instruction guide on how to make the backups, some tools to make getting the keypad covers off easier, and a way to contact me for questions and support. I do not have final pricing yet, but it is expected to be in the $400-$500 price range for the complete kit.

I will also be able to do this as a service for you if we are in the same location without buying the kit.

Let me know if this is of interest to you and I can include you in the first set of kits to go out.

Paul Whittle

Paul: Great to hear this. But how do we contact you? Where are you located?

 

[Tom Cherry]

21 hours ago, Bill R said:

@windsorbill06 Hi Bill, here is a post I did on finding and noting the multiplex switch codes on the Windsor.  Pretty straight forward hopefully.  Now having to program a switch pad will require the help of @pwhittle or @Frank McElroy who have the hardware and software to do this.  But the codes are easy to determine and document.  Knowing the codes allows you to actually program any switch pad button to any switched device on the Multiplex system.  But that again would require Frank and Paul's help.

So for example you could have a button on the switch pad in the bedroom turn on the toilet room light.  But of course you would have to eliminate one of the other button switches in the bedroom panel currently.

 

Thanks, that is a good explanation.  Frank, I know has done this.  I was going to have him reprogram a key pad and just reverse the middle two switches.  Not a big deal.  But it bothered me that the switches should have been done that when new.  Like coming into a room and having the light switches reversed and not intuitive....like a 2 or 3 gang switch plate where you enter the room from the outside and the first switch controls the outside flood lights rather than the interior lights.  Probably OCD and Annal, but my DW fusses about such and I often rewire rooms to suit her needs.

BACK ON POINT, the real trick is the labels.  Unless you use stick ons.  I talked to Frank and he sent me details about how he refined the process and got the Font and Size and effect (bold?) exactly right, after much trial and error, so that when he added some items, the labels looked OEM.  He also researched and found the right velum film and could print on it so they came out perfect.  He is a stickler for details and an unbelievable fount of knowlege.  I, like a dummy, thought that I could move each individual label over.  NOPE.  The labels are in a strip and they drop in from the top.  So, like the old days of spicing film and editing, you would have had to cut out each center label and then splice back together into a strip that would slide in. Now, Richard's screen name connotes that he might have the skill set....so one never knows...

Obviously, the mechanics behind the programming and such is quite simple...compared to the actual window dressing to make it look OEM without exterior labels....which some folks do a great job on.

Just passing that detail along...

[Bill R]

30 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:

He also researched and found the right velum film and could print on it so they came out perfect. 

Yes, worked great for me.

@Frank McElroy has a file you can download and make your own labels using velum paper.  I have done this for my coach.  I didn't like the OEM description and came up with my own that the DW can better understand.  For example, C/S S/O OVHD for Curb Side Slide Out Overhead lights I just changed to J-Sofa Lights.  She really appreciates that.  Here is the file.

 

Edited April 22, 2023 by Bill R

[Tom Cherry]

31 minutes ago, Bill R said:

Yes, worked great for me.

@Frank McElroy has a file you can download and make your own labels using velum paper.  I have done this for my coach.  I didn't like the OEM description and came up with my own that the DW can better understand.  For example, C/S S/O OVHD for Curb Side Slide Out Overhead lights I just changed to J-Sofa Lights.  She really appreciates that.  Here is the file.

 

Thanks.  I had forgotten, or it never registered, that Frank actually wrote the instructions for doing that.  Good catch.  I just passed....but for those whose family members are not happy (and we KNOW who they are), then what you posted and they way to improve it is great.  I had forgotten that was almost 3 years ago...

Thanks again...

[Frank McElroy]

4 hours ago, Bill R said:

Yes, worked great for me.

@Frank McElroy has a file you can download and make your own labels using velum paper.  I have done this for my coach.  I didn't like the OEM description and came up with my own that the DW can better understand.  For example, C/S S/O OVHD for Curb Side Slide Out Overhead lights I just changed to J-Sofa Lights.  She really appreciates that.  Here is the file.

 

Bill, Thanks for the update and sharing the link to the program in our downloads file.  Glad this worked for you.

You must be pretty good with power point.  Once you get the hang of how to edit and move the text blocks around, it's pretty straight forward to print or create new labels.  Then all you have to do is cut the label strips and slide them into the keypad module. 

For a while I tried to get the program Monaco used but was never successful.  So, with a lot of trial and error, I developed one myself in PowerPoint with the font style and size set to exactly match OEM labels on my 2008 Dynasty.

[windsorbill06]

@Bill R  Glad you got that pesky non-op switch working.  I am fortunate, my multiplex has worked pretty well over the years.  I did have to replace the main board once and I'm convinced that was caused by excessive heat in the back closet where those electronics are housed.  @myrontruex  (I think it was Myron) had a great solution to ventilate that area, but got his butt chewed on IRV2 at least once when he posted about it..  But I liked the idea.  You and I could purchase a wrecked '06 and make good use of the parts off of it.

I had a great phone chat with @pwhittle  (Thank you Paul!) about multiplex system, then it moved into headlights, cameras, and I forget what all.  It's good to know both he and Frank can program these systems, if needed.  My OCD hasn't kicked in enough to send keypads to them to  reprogram each button position to make it a little more consistent and sensible to me.  But I'm tempted.      

Edited April 23, 2023 by windsorbill06

[Tom Cherry]

10 minutes ago, windsorbill06 said:

@Bill R  Glad you got that pesky non-op switch working.  I am fortunate, my multiplex has worked pretty well over the years.  I did have to replace the main board once and I'm convinced that was caused by excessive heat in the back closet where those electronics are housed.  @myrontruex  (I think it was Myron) had a great solution to ventilate that area, but got his butt chewed on IRV2 at least once when he posted about it..  But I liked the idea.  You and I could purchase a wrecked '06 and make good use of the parts off of it.

I had a great phone chat with Paul W about multiplex system.  It's good to know both he and Frank can program these systems, if needed.  My OCD hasn't kicked in enough to send keypads to them to  reprogram each button position to make it a little more consistent and sensible to me.  But I'm tempted.      

Curiosity.  I looked at the sales brochure for your Windsor.  I thought you had what I call the MPX LITE.  That is a MPX that will only control or was designed to do lights, ceiling fans and the water pump.  Mine has a small control device called an IPX.  The earlier MPX LITE used a chip or were connected the the Intellitec EMS.

The MPX LITE was then used on the Camelot/Scepter until the Roadmaster chassis units went out of production when REV bought it.  We do not have the CPU or the Programmable “computer” (in industry this was called a PLC or Programmable Logic Controller and was the heart of CNC machines and could run AutoCad files).

It is my understanding that changing button functions or even adding new buttons is possible.  BUT, to do something like adding new switches to control slides or any other switched functions, including a “Master On” switch requires a stand alone CPU like the “FULL” MPX has that was standard on the 2006 Dynasty (and up) models.

Does your system have some sort of MINI CPU that is programmable but not like the full MPX?  That would be great info. I was not aware of but 2 varieties.

Please advise….a picture of your “board” would be great.

Thanks.

 

[windsorbill06]

1 hour ago, Tom Cherry said:

Curiosity.  I looked at the sales brochure for your Windsor.  I thought you had what I call the MPX LITE.  That is a MPX that will only control or was designed to do lights, ceiling fans and the water pump.  Mine has a small control device called an IPX.  The earlier MPX LITE used a chip or were connected the the Intellitec EMS.

The MPX LITE was then used on the Camelot/Scepter until the Roadmaster chassis units went out of production when REV bought it.  We do not have the CPU or the Programmable “computer” (in industry this was called a PLC or Programmable Logic Controller and was the heart of CNC machines and could run AutoCad files).

It is my understanding that changing button functions or even adding new buttons is possible.  BUT, to do something like adding new switches to control slides or any other switched functions, including a “Master On” switch requires a stand alone CPU like the “FULL” MPX has that was standard on the 2006 Dynasty (and up) models.

Does your system have some sort of MINI CPU that is programmable but not like the full MPX?  That would be great info. I was not aware of but 2 varieties.

Please advise….a picture of your “board” would be great.

Thanks.

 

Tom, I believe your correct, but I've never heard it called the "mini".   Makes sense, though.     Mine  controls only lights and the water pump.  No shades, fans, slides or anything else.  It gets power from the intellitec EMS.     On my other thread, which I'll update, I did move the toilet room switches to another location.  Same switches, same functions, just a different location.  It was simple to extend the wires.  

While I was chatting with Paul, he said it would be 'easy' if I ever wanted to add another switch plate at some other location and program each individual switch.  Just splice in the wires and run them to the new location,  program a switch pad to the light of your choice.  Boom!  Done!    Hard part is finding the switches/switch board itself.  Maybe @pwhittle can comment on any 'mini CPU', these beast have, but I don't believe it's in my coach.   There is really nothing for me to 'back up'.  Paul did offer to re-program my individual switch plates, but as I mentioned earlier,   not real high priority right now.  

Edited April 23, 2023 by windsorbill06

[MyronTruex]

Never confuse me with facts. 😄With over 50 years in electronics I am confident when I can take a small risk. Overheating leading to fire versus no overheating and fire. 

Yeah I have a tiny modification and the best modification to keep that AC breaker panel in MY closet is actually insulating the water heater that is mounted directly below it.

I discovered how much heat that was contributing when repairing/modifying the water heater for a mixer valve and a few degrees more in heat.

The excess heat naturally rises right into that panel. No ventilation in the closet and the door is within a couple of inches of the face of the panel. 

My panel is only slighthly warm to the touch in the hottest of days now. 

The modification to the face plate was to simply install some tiny flat washers to allow air flow past the panel. Maybe 1/16 of an inch. 

 

[Frank McElroy]

14 minutes ago, myrontruex said:

Never confuse me with facts. 😄With over 50 years in electronics I am confident when I can take a small risk. Overheating leading to fire versus no overheating and fire. 

Yeah I have a tiny modification and the best modification to keep that AC breaker panel in MY closet is actually insulating the water heater that is mounted directly below it.

I discovered how much heat that was contributing when repairing/modifying the water heater for a mixer valve and a few degrees more in heat.

The excess heat naturally rises right into that panel. No ventilation in the closet and the door is within a couple of inches of the face of the panel. 

My panel is only slighthly warm to the touch in the hottest of days now. 

The modification to the face plate was to simply install some tiny flat washers to allow air flow past the panel. Maybe 1/16 of an inch. 

 

Somewhere around model year 2007, on the Dynasty and above, Monaco moved the 120 volt load center panel boxes from the rear closet to the cabinet above the driver's side window.  Above the panel boxes is a small vent ducted to the main ceiling trunk line to cool them when running the roof AC units.  There is also a similar ceiling vent ducted to the entertainment cabinet.  It's important to make sure these round vent grills are kept open for cooling.  Unless one removes the cover around the panel boxes, you would never know that they are being cooled when the roof AC units run.

[windsorbill06]

30 minutes ago, myrontruex said:

Never confuse me with facts. 😄With over 50 years in electronics I am confident when I can take a small risk. Overheating leading to fire versus no overheating and fire. 

Yeah I have a tiny modification and the best modification to keep that AC breaker panel in MY closet is actually insulating the water heater that is mounted directly below it.

I discovered how much heat that was contributing when repairing/modifying the water heater for a mixer valve and a few degrees more in heat.

The excess heat naturally rises right into that panel. No ventilation in the closet and the door is within a couple of inches of the face of the panel. 

My panel is only slighthly warm to the touch in the hottest of days now. 

The modification to the face plate was to simply install some tiny flat washers to allow air flow past the panel. Maybe 1/16 of an inch. 

 

So right Myron!.  I don't have the water heater anywhere near it.  My issue is Monaco put a big Cummins heat sink right below it.