Steven P Posted November 5, 2021 Share Posted November 5, 2021 @saflyerold style outlets from me just meant the single receptacle that came in the coach. They just look old (to me) and when I looked for a replacement, I could only find em on Ebay making me think they were not made anymore,, therefore old style. Sorry if I termed them wrong. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigNick Posted November 5, 2021 Author Share Posted November 5, 2021 Well, I think I found the answer to my question. I have a book of schematics, I guess that receptacle doesn't get power from the inverter CB box. The only thing I can think of to correct the situation is to run a set of wires from the CB panel up to the refrigerator backside. I'm guessing this is like this because the original refrigerator ran off propane, I know this because the gas line is capped behind. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ivan K Posted November 5, 2021 Share Posted November 5, 2021 Nick, I think you are right there. Looks like both of our configurations are outside of the assumed normal, in different ways. Hopefully you'll find an easy way to hook it up to a nearby source. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96 EVO Posted November 5, 2021 Share Posted November 5, 2021 If your coach came with a fridge with no built in ice maker, they had no need to install a inverter powered receptacle back there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johncvandoren@gmail.com Posted November 5, 2021 Share Posted November 5, 2021 On 11/2/2021 at 9:16 AM, 59Chriscraft said: That plug is not wired into the inverter circuit do to the drain on battery if you are off grid very long. I’m trying to figure out how to wire around that plug to be able to use the inverter while driving instead of running the generator. My rig had a duplex outlet, with one socket wired from the breaker panel (for the ice maker), and the other wired from the inverter. Check both with multimeter. If inverter socket is hot, use it, ignore the other. You didn’t say what make/model inverter, so can’t tell you how or where to troubleshoot it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96 EVO Posted November 5, 2021 Share Posted November 5, 2021 18 minutes ago, johncvandoren@gmail.com said: My rig had a duplex outlet, with one socket wired from the breaker panel (for the ice maker), and the other wired from the inverter. Check both with multimeter. If inverter socket is hot, use it, ignore the other. You didn’t say what make/model inverter, so can’t tell you how or where to troubleshoot it. Did your coach come with a factory installed residential fridge? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr4Film Posted November 5, 2021 Share Posted November 5, 2021 Or you could locate the nearest/easiest Inverter powered duplex/receptacle to the fridge area and just run an extension cord from that duplex over to the rear end of the fridge compartment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigNick Posted November 5, 2021 Author Share Posted November 5, 2021 (edited) 45 minutes ago, johncvandoren@gmail.com said: My rig had a duplex outlet, with one socket wired from the breaker panel (for the ice maker), and the other wired from the inverter. Check both with multimeter. If inverter socket is hot, use it, ignore the other. You didn’t say what make/model inverter, so can’t tell you how or where to troubleshoot it. I'm fairly sure there's no inverter power there, I will check with a meter before anything. If not, then I will plug in the fridge using an extension cord from the inverter receptacle in the head and verify the fridge will run from it. If so, I will drop the wire off that bathroom receptacle , (which I will verify has inverter power and is literally on the other side of the wall from the fridge). When I drop the wire off the GFI receptacle in the head, I'll pull a piece 12/3 down so I can hook the GFI back up and hook one of the outlets in the duplex receptacle for the fridge to the dropped wire, that way I'll have one receptacle inverter powered, the head receptacle will still be GFI and inverter powered as well. Edited November 5, 2021 by BigNick 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr4Film Posted November 5, 2021 Share Posted November 5, 2021 Nick, Excellent plan and exactly what I would do in the same situation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ko7pjim Posted November 6, 2021 Share Posted November 6, 2021 My 04 Camelot 40PDQ has two duplex receptacles behind the fridge. One duplex receptacle (upper) run on the inverter. The below duplex receptacle is on shore power. I converted the cooling unit to a compressor so I plug it into the inverter so it will run when not plugged into shore power. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96 EVO Posted November 6, 2021 Share Posted November 6, 2021 33 minutes ago, ko7pjim said: My 04 Camelot 40PDQ has two duplex receptacles behind the fridge. One duplex receptacle (upper) run on the inverter. The below duplex receptacle is on shore power. I converted the cooling unit to a compressor so I plug it into the inverter so it will run when not plugged into shore power. I would do the same with a compressor fridge, but not an absorption fridge! My Dometic heating element draws something like 470 watts. That would kill my battery bank in short order! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steven P Posted November 6, 2021 Share Posted November 6, 2021 Nick, I like your plan too. One thing to consider here w all you're having to do is your case does make a strong argument for a second (PSW) inverter as others have done for their fridges. Then you'd have no worries about it. Just a thought. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grampy OG Posted November 6, 2021 Share Posted November 6, 2021 (edited) On 11/2/2021 at 9:36 AM, Chuck B 2004 Windsor said: You do NOT want to run a residential frig with a modified sine wave inverter. Some members added a pure sine small inverter to run the residential frig on. Interesting thought there Chuck. What size SMALL (PSW) invertor would you think that they used? Meaning how may watts output. My residential fridge is the ubiquitous Samsung RF18. My 3000 watt Trace runs all the time if I am off of shore power for no other reason but to keep the fridge running. In itself burns a lot of battery amps to operate. A smaller one in the fridge compart sounds like a cool (no pun) idea. I honestly think that the Trace sucks the house batteries down more than the Samsung does. Edited November 6, 2021 by Grampy OG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ivylog Posted November 6, 2021 Share Posted November 6, 2021 (edited) Have read where a 500W inverter will run a Samsung because of the variable speed DC compressor. I added a 1000W PSW for my 21 Whirlpool…1000W because I also powered a Sat DVR receiver and the TV in the bedroom and on occasion, a 120V fan. Edited November 6, 2021 by Ivylog Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johncvandoren@gmail.com Posted November 6, 2021 Share Posted November 6, 2021 20 hours ago, 96 EVO said: Did your coach come with a factory installed residential fridge? No, it was a NeverCold. I upgraded to an LG residential French door, plugged into the inverter-powered outlet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Pratt Posted November 7, 2021 Share Posted November 7, 2021 OK Gentleman, This thread has taken on a life of its own and there are only a few participants saying the same old stuff. There has been some good info posted and lot of opinions on the Pro's and Con's of MSW and PSW inverters. The TOPIC is being beaten to death. There are thousands of RV's that have MSW Inverters installed and have performed well with most appliances over the years. Everyone has an opinion and should do or install equipment that they are comfortable using. Everyone should do there due diligence and do the research and make there choices based on fact, data and real User Reviews and not opinions or what if's. I am asking that this thread end and be-taken off line and those that still want to discuss the issues do it offline Thanks everyone 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hex_nut Posted November 7, 2021 Share Posted November 7, 2021 When I first installed the Samsung RF18 I plugged it into a Kill-A-Watt unit to determine what wattage it would require to run it. I determined it should run fine on a 500 watt power source, so I purchased a 600 watt PSW inverter. That worked fine for the first 4 years until the defrost heating element needed to be replaced. After replacing the defrost heating element, I found that it would trip the inverter when the defrost heating element came on. Evidently the replacement element consumed enough additional wattage to overpower the small inverter. I replaced the 600 watt inverter with a 1000 watt unit. No problems since. So, if you are looking to power a Samsung RF18 with a stand-alone inverter, I recommend a 1000 watt unit. Richard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigNick Posted November 8, 2021 Author Share Posted November 8, 2021 I had hoped the receptacle in the head was inverted, it is not. The next nearest receptacle is the one in the basement down below. I plugged the refrigerator into it and it runs just fine including the compressor. I just have to figure out how to get the wire up through the false ceiling in the wet bay into the refrigerator bay. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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